Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:01 AM - Re: CJ Tow Bar (jblake207@COMCAST.NET)
2. 09:55 AM - cj tow bar (Aviatre@aol.com)
3. 11:12 AM - Re: CJ Tow Bar (A. Dennis Savarese)
4. 11:17 AM - Re: cj tow bar (John Fischer)
5. 04:09 PM - Re: Re: Oil filter (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
6. 04:11 PM - Re: Re: Oil filter (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
7. 04:19 PM - oil shut off valve/scavage pump (Dave \)
8. 04:22 PM - Re: Re: Oil filter (Dave \)
9. 06:05 PM - Re: Re: Oil filter (cjpilot710@aol.com)
10. 06:08 PM - Fw: The forces of flight (cjpilot710@aol.com)
11. 08:18 PM - Re: Re: Oil filter (Dave \)
Message 1
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I use a standard, hand-held Mooney towbar.=C2- Why, because I used to hav
e a Mooney and it fits.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Winkelmann" <capav8r@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2009 7:26:26 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Yak-List: CJ Tow Bar
What are you guys using for a tow bar for the CJ to move the aircraft in an
d out of a hangar?
Craig W
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233540#233540
===========
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MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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Message 2
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Now if there is a tow bar to laugh at, I think I win the prize. I used two
8' long 2x6's on edge. I nailed blocks between them to space it to fit over
the nose wheel. I drilled a horizontal hole through the 2x6's for a piece of
emt conduit, that pases through the nose wheel axel. On the other end, I
brought the 2x6's together. nailed an oak 2x4 flat on the bottom, to make like
a
tongue. I drilled a 2 1/4" hole in the tongue, so I can use a 2" trailer ball
on the end of a fork on my fork lift. It looks funky, but works real well. I
used all scrap lumber, and it took less than an hour to fabricate. Picture by
request.
Frank Surfas
**************Need a job? Find employment help in your area.
(http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005)
Message 3
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But how much MMO does the Mooney tow bar hold? That's what is
important. :-)
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: jblake207@COMCAST.NET
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ Tow Bar
I use a standard, hand-held Mooney towbar. Why, because I used to
have a Mooney and it fits.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Winkelmann" <capav8r@gmail.com>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2009 7:26:26 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Yak-List: CJ Tow Bar
What are you guys using for a tow bar for the CJ to move the aircraft
in and out of a hangar?
Craig W
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/view - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS
-<====
Message 4
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Frank,
$100,000 airplane, $10 tow bar, now that's priceless!
Fortunately I have a metal fabrication shop (partners in a company
that builds race cars), so I used scrap chrome-moly tubing.
I found a piece that fit into the front axel, then used 1 5/8 tubing
(bent in a tubing bender) to bring the pulling point centered on the
front wheel.
There is a 1" cross bar to hold onto when pulling or pushing. The tow
bar weighs about 10 Lbs.
I have been meaning to make a second tow bar that fits on a trailer
hitch, but have not found the time.
I am not sure how different the CJ is then the Yak. Picture by req.
John Fischer
Yak-52, N213YA
At 09:52 AM 3/9/2009, you wrote:
>Now if there is a tow bar to laugh at, I think I win the prize. I
>used two 8' long 2x6's on edge. I nailed blocks between them to
>space it to fit over the nose wheel. I drilled a horizontal hole
>through the 2x6's for a piece of emt conduit, that pases through the
>nose wheel axel. On the other end, I brought the 2x6's together.
>nailed an oak 2x4 flat on the bottom, to make like a tongue. I
>drilled a 2 1/4" hole in the tongue, so I can use a 2" trailer ball
>on the end of a fork on my fork lift. It looks funky, but works real
>well. I used all scrap lumber, and it took less than an hour to
>fabricate. Picture by request.
>Frank Surfas
>
>
>----------
>Need a job?
><http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005>Find
>employment help in your area.
>
Message 5
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My 2 cent reply to this message is: To the best of my knowledge and
experience, every word this man says is exactly dead on accurate, and I
wish I could have said it as well.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
cjpilot710@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
I'll put in my 2 cent worth.
I've used a Marion S10 filter on my M-14p for all of its 1,500 hours. I
believe its been a major (if not the major) component along with the
pre-oiler, that has kept my running pretty damn well. Compressions
still in the low 70's as of last annual. This filter though not an
"approved" aviation filter looks just a beefy on the inside as the
approved ones I've cut open. I like the fact that I can cut out the
paper filter accordion, lay it out to drain than check it for metal.
Being a 10 micron filter I'm real confident its doing its job. It's
price allows me to change it more often which is an incentive to anyone
under BO's plans.
Now being a Florida boy, I have no need for pre-heat. BUT I've some
experience with the problem BUT never in the extremes. Quite regularly
on the B-24, after starting (away from sunshine of FL) we warm up at a
max of 1,000 rpm until the temp is a "STEADY" 40C or better. The reason
is we'll see the oil temp rise after start to above 40C and than maybe 2
minutes later, drop significantly cold again. Reason? The cold oil
back in the cooler hit the sensor on the way into the engine. It is
usually close to 5 minutes or more before we can exceed 1,000 rpms for
taxi.
Oil dilution system was (I was told) "invented" by the Poles at the
beginning of WW2. The Germans supposedly picked it up from them, and
the allies followed suit. It is not meant to be a long term procedure
for cold weather. You add enough fuel from one of your fuel tanks, to
keep the oil thinned out for the length of time you will have the engine
shut down. That is why that switch is spring loaded OFF. There were
tables that told the crew how long (seconds or minutes) to hold the
switch open for the length of time the engine was to be shut down. I
never saw a table go beyond 24 hours. And once you used the system you
were restricted on how soon you could start the engine again. I hope my
memory is still good!!
My CJ showed up from China with a little blank on the oil cooler, oil
tank, and oil sump. It of course had an oil dilution system. ( With
the change to the M-14p, I removed the oil dilution system. I now use
the valve for the smoke system and the switch for the pre-oiler). I do
not and never have used multi grade oil. I go from using 50 (100w) in
the winter to 60 (120W). I just do not envision myself flying my CJ in
really cold climates. IF I did, I would put on a restriction plate on
the oil cooler inlet. Also I'd put a electric preheat blank -not only
on the oil tank - but the cooler as well. I'd most likely go to a multi
grade oil too.
We'll heard of the stories of the Alaska bush pilots, who in the winter,
would drain their oil while still warm from their engines and take it
into their beds with them. The next day, they'd cook it over a fire,
and pour into their engine when ready to start. (Some still do that I'm
told.) Anyway extreme temps require extreme measures to able to
operate. And when you look at the cost of these pre-heat systems over
what it might cost in fixing problems caused by the oil being to cold.
That might be the "cheap answer"
In a message dated 3/8/2009 2:40:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
yakplt@yahoo.com writes:
Keith I don't have a dog in this fight... I don't sell filters,
and in fact my engine is completely stock in this regard. So hey... I
don't know beans about which filter anyone should use and I am sure your
experiences using them is worthwhile telling people about.
Your first posting mentioned increasing engine RPM to taxi the
aircraft, 2 minutes after starting on a 25 degree day with an oil tank
and sump pre-heater operating about 2 hours first. My response is
simple. Calling a spade a spade: I don't think that is anywhere near
enough time to warm up an engine under these conditions and anyone doing
what you did is going to subject the engine to extreme stress as
evidenced by the fact that OIL COOLERS HAVE BLOWN UP UNDER THE SAME
CIRCUMSTANCES.
If you or anyone else reading this wants to ignore my opinion in
this matter, that is up to them. I really could care less.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
________________________________
From: keithmckinley <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 8, 2009 8:50:52 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
<keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
I just stated the fact of my failure. I wasn't impugning the set
up you sell. You or anyone can take it for what it's worth or not.
Maybe my ground operations were the cause maybe not. But if you
really want to call a spade a spade you shouldn't be putting a hydraulic
filter made for a damn log splitter on an airplane.
Fire away.
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700 HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233682#233682
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Ad========
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Navigator?Yak-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
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Message 6
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Thanks Keith. Nice letter.
Mark
P.s. I built a log splitter from an EA-6B wing fold actuator ... And I
should probably mention it was from a crashed aircraft and not one from
the flight line. :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of keithmckinley
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 5:11 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
--> <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
Mark,
I agree, that's why I posted the details as best I could remember. Hell
other than my 75 hours of round engine time coutesy of the Navy and my
100 hours in a C-152 I'm a jet guy learning about this piston stuff more
and more every day.
btw, I own a log splitter too.
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700 HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233767#233767
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| Subject: | oil shut off valve/scavage pump |
All: I just purchases a Kimball Enterprises oil shut off valve and
separate scavenge pump. I got pictures from Jim Kimball on the
installation. The scavenge pump is not a problem. However, the oil
shit off valve does not fit where Kimball says to put it. The machined
part is much larger than the one in the pictures. Has anyone installed
the newly machined oil shut off valve on their Yak 52. If yes, how did
you do it?
Dave Jester
Message 8
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All: I just purchases a Kimball Enterprises oil shut off valve and separate
scavenge pump. I got pictures from Jim Kimball on the installation. The
scavenge pump is not a problem. However, the oil shit off valve does not
fit where Kimball says to put it. The machined part is much larger than the
one in the pictures. Has anyone installed the newly machined oil shut off
valve on their Yak 52. If yes, how did you do it?
Dave Jester
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 6:08 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> My 2 cent reply to this message is: To the best of my knowledge and
> experience, every word this man says is exactly dead on accurate, and I
> wish I could have said it as well.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> cjpilot710@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 3:56 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
>
> I'll put in my 2 cent worth.
>
> I've used a Marion S10 filter on my M-14p for all of its 1,500 hours. I
> believe its been a major (if not the major) component along with the
> pre-oiler, that has kept my running pretty damn well. Compressions
> still in the low 70's as of last annual. This filter though not an
> "approved" aviation filter looks just a beefy on the inside as the
> approved ones I've cut open. I like the fact that I can cut out the
> paper filter accordion, lay it out to drain than check it for metal.
> Being a 10 micron filter I'm real confident its doing its job. It's
> price allows me to change it more often which is an incentive to anyone
> under BO's plans.
>
> Now being a Florida boy, I have no need for pre-heat. BUT I've some
> experience with the problem BUT never in the extremes. Quite regularly
> on the B-24, after starting (away from sunshine of FL) we warm up at a
> max of 1,000 rpm until the temp is a "STEADY" 40C or better. The reason
> is we'll see the oil temp rise after start to above 40C and than maybe 2
> minutes later, drop significantly cold again. Reason? The cold oil
> back in the cooler hit the sensor on the way into the engine. It is
> usually close to 5 minutes or more before we can exceed 1,000 rpms for
> taxi.
>
> Oil dilution system was (I was told) "invented" by the Poles at the
> beginning of WW2. The Germans supposedly picked it up from them, and
> the allies followed suit. It is not meant to be a long term procedure
> for cold weather. You add enough fuel from one of your fuel tanks, to
> keep the oil thinned out for the length of time you will have the engine
> shut down. That is why that switch is spring loaded OFF. There were
> tables that told the crew how long (seconds or minutes) to hold the
> switch open for the length of time the engine was to be shut down. I
> never saw a table go beyond 24 hours. And once you used the system you
> were restricted on how soon you could start the engine again. I hope my
> memory is still good!!
>
> My CJ showed up from China with a little blank on the oil cooler, oil
> tank, and oil sump. It of course had an oil dilution system. ( With
> the change to the M-14p, I removed the oil dilution system. I now use
> the valve for the smoke system and the switch for the pre-oiler). I do
> not and never have used multi grade oil. I go from using 50 (100w) in
> the winter to 60 (120W). I just do not envision myself flying my CJ in
> really cold climates. IF I did, I would put on a restriction plate on
> the oil cooler inlet. Also I'd put a electric preheat blank -not only
> on the oil tank - but the cooler as well. I'd most likely go to a multi
> grade oil too.
>
> We'll heard of the stories of the Alaska bush pilots, who in the winter,
> would drain their oil while still warm from their engines and take it
> into their beds with them. The next day, they'd cook it over a fire,
> and pour into their engine when ready to start. (Some still do that I'm
> told.) Anyway extreme temps require extreme measures to able to
> operate. And when you look at the cost of these pre-heat systems over
> what it might cost in fixing problems caused by the oil being to cold.
> That might be the "cheap answer"
>
>
> In a message dated 3/8/2009 2:40:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> yakplt@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> Keith I don't have a dog in this fight... I don't sell filters,
> and in fact my engine is completely stock in this regard. So hey... I
> don't know beans about which filter anyone should use and I am sure your
> experiences using them is worthwhile telling people about.
>
> Your first posting mentioned increasing engine RPM to taxi the
> aircraft, 2 minutes after starting on a 25 degree day with an oil tank
> and sump pre-heater operating about 2 hours first. My response is
> simple. Calling a spade a spade: I don't think that is anywhere near
> enough time to warm up an engine under these conditions and anyone doing
> what you did is going to subject the engine to extreme stress as
> evidenced by the fact that OIL COOLERS HAVE BLOWN UP UNDER THE SAME
> CIRCUMSTANCES.
>
> If you or anyone else reading this wants to ignore my opinion in
> this matter, that is up to them. I really could care less.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: keithmckinley <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 8, 2009 8:50:52 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
>
> <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
>
> I just stated the fact of my failure. I wasn't impugning the set
> up you sell. You or anyone can take it for what it's worth or not.
>
> Maybe my ground operations were the cause maybe not. But if you
> really want to call a spade a spade you shouldn't be putting a hydraulic
> filter made for a damn log splitter on an airplane.
>
> Fire away.
>
> Keith
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700 HS
> KFIT
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233682#233682
>
>
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Ad========
>
>
> ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/
> Navigator?Yak-List
> .matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web. Try the new
> Email Toolbar now
> <http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown00000027> !
>
>
>
Message 9
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In a message dated 3/9/2009 7:22:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
wdjester@cox.net writes:
Hay Goatboy!
Check your spell checker! Where is that shit off valve located?? Man I
want to see one of them! :)))))
Pappy
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Dave \"Goatboy\" Jester" <wdjester@cox.net>
All: I just purchases a Kimball Enterprises oil shut off valve and separate
scavenge pump. I got pictures from Jim Kimball on the installation. The
scavenge pump is not a problem. However, the oil shit off valve does not
fit where Kimball says to put it. The machined part is much larger than the
one in the pictures. Has anyone installed the newly machined oil shut off
valve on their Yak 52. If yes, how did you do it?
Dave Jester
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 6:08 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> My 2 cent reply to this message is: To the best of my knowledge and
> experience, every word this man says is exactly dead on accurate, and I
> wish I could have said it as well.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> cjpilot710@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 3:56 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
>
> I'll put in my 2 cent worth.
>
> I've used a Marion S10 filter on my M-14p for all of its 1,500 hours. I
> believe its been a major (if not the major) component along with the
> pre-oiler, that has kept my running pretty damn well. Compressions
> still in the low 70's as of last annual. This filter though not an
> "approved" aviation filter looks just a beefy on the inside as the
> approved ones I've cut open. I like the fact that I can cut out the
> paper filter accordion, lay it out to drain than check it for metal.
> Being a 10 micron filter I'm real confident its doing its job. It's
> price allows me to change it more often which is an incentive to anyone
> under BO's plans.
>
> Now being a Florida boy, I have no need for pre-heat. BUT I've some
> experience with the problem BUT never in the extremes. Quite regularly
> on the B-24, after starting (away from sunshine of FL) we warm up at a
> max of 1,000 rpm until the temp is a "STEADY" 40C or better. The reason
> is we'll see the oil temp rise after start to above 40C and than maybe 2
> minutes later, drop significantly cold again. Reason? The cold oil
> back in the cooler hit the sensor on the way into the engine. It is
> usually close to 5 minutes or more before we can exceed 1,000 rpms for
> taxi.
>
> Oil dilution system was (I was told) "invented" by the Poles at the
> beginning of WW2. The Germans supposedly picked it up from them, and
> the allies followed suit. It is not meant to be a long term procedure
> for cold weather. You add enough fuel from one of your fuel tanks, to
> keep the oil thinned out for the length of time you will have the engine
> shut down. That is why that switch is spring loaded OFF. There were
> tables that told the crew how long (seconds or minutes) to hold the
> switch open for the length of time the engine was to be shut down. I
> never saw a table go beyond 24 hours. And once you used the system you
> were restricted on how soon you could start the engine again. I hope my
> memory is still good!!
>
> My CJ showed up from China with a little blank on the oil cooler, oil
> tank, and oil sump. It of course had an oil dilution system. ( With
> the change to the M-14p, I removed the oil dilution system. I now use
> the valve for the smoke system and the switch for the pre-oiler). I do
> not and never have used multi grade oil. I go from using 50 (100w) in
> the winter to 60 (120W). I just do not envision myself flying my CJ in
> really cold climates. IF I did, I would put on a restriction plate on
> the oil cooler inlet. Also I'd put a electric preheat blank -not only
> on the oil tank - but the cooler as well. I'd most likely go to a multi
> grade oil too.
>
> We'll heard of the stories of the Alaska bush pilots, who in the winter,
> would drain their oil while still warm from their engines and take it
> into their beds with them. The next day, they'd cook it over a fire,
> and pour into their engine when ready to start. (Some still do that I'm
> told.) Anyway extreme temps require extreme measures to able to
> operate. And when you look at the cost of these pre-heat systems over
> what it might cost in fixing problems caused by the oil being to cold.
> That might be the "cheap answer"
>
>
> In a message dated 3/8/2009 2:40:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> yakplt@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> Keith I don't have a dog in this fight... I don't sell filters,
> and in fact my engine is completely stock in this regard. So hey... I
> don't know beans about which filter anyone should use and I am sure your
> experiences using them is worthwhile telling people about.
>
> Your first posting mentioned increasing engine RPM to taxi the
> aircraft, 2 minutes after starting on a 25 degree day with an oil tank
> and sump pre-heater operating about 2 hours first. My response is
> simple. Calling a spade a spade: I don't think that is anywhere near
> enough time to warm up an engine under these conditions and anyone doing
> what you did is going to subject the engine to extreme stress as
> evidenced by the fact that OIL COOLERS HAVE BLOWN UP UNDER THE SAME
> CIRCUMSTANCES.
>
> If you or anyone else reading this wants to ignore my opinion in
> this matter, that is up to them. I really could care less.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: keithmckinley <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 8, 2009 8:50:52 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
>
> <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
>
> I just stated the fact of my failure. I wasn't impugning the set
> up you sell. You or anyone can take it for what it's worth or not.
>
> Maybe my ground operations were the cause maybe not. But if you
> really want to call a spade a spade you shouldn't be putting a hydraulic
> filter made for a damn log splitter on an airplane.
>
> Fire away.
>
> Keith
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700 HS
> KFIT
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233682#233682
>
>
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Ad========
>
>
> ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/
> Navigator?Yak-List
> .matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
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**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
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| Subject: | Fwd: The forces of flight |
In a message dated 3/9/2009 7:15:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rrussell20@cfl.rr.com writes:
Could not help but send this along.
Pappy
The Forces of Flight .....
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
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From: "Dick Russell" <rrussell20@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: The forces of flight
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Well damn. Good eye Pappy. I stand corrected. I meant I purchased an
oil shut off valve....in my defense the u is next to the i on the
keyboard.
----- Original Message -----
From: cjpilot710@aol.com
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
In a message dated 3/9/2009 7:22:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
wdjester@cox.net writes:
Hay Goatboy!
Check your spell checker! Where is that shit off valve located??
Man I want to see one of them! :)))))
Pappy
<wdjester@cox.net>
All: I just purchases a Kimball Enterprises oil shut off valve and
separate
scavenge pump. I got pictures from Jim Kimball on the installation.
The
scavenge pump is not a problem. However, the oil shit off valve
does not
fit where Kimball says to put it. The machined part is much larger
than the
one in the pictures. Has anyone installed the newly machined oil
shut off
valve on their Yak 52. If yes, how did you do it?
Dave Jester
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 6:08 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
Point,
> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> My 2 cent reply to this message is: To the best of my knowledge
and
> experience, every word this man says is exactly dead on accurate,
and I
> wish I could have said it as well.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> cjpilot710@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 3:56 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
>
> I'll put in my 2 cent worth.
>
> I've used a Marion S10 filter on my M-14p for all of its 1,500
hours. I
> believe its been a major (if not the major) component along with
the
> pre-oiler, that has kept my running pretty damn well.
Compressions
> still in the low 70's as of last annual. This filter though not
an
> "approved" aviation filter looks just a beefy on the inside as the
> approved ones I've cut open. I like the fact that I can cut out
the
> paper filter accordion, lay it out to drain than check it for
metal.
> Being a 10 micron filter I'm real confident its doing its job.
It's
> price allows me to change it more often which is an incentive to
anyone
> under BO's plans.
>
> Now being a Florida boy, I have no need for pre-heat. BUT I've
some
> experience with the problem BUT never in the extremes. Quite
regularly
> on the B-24, after starting (away from sunshine of FL) we warm up
at a
> max of 1,000 rpm until the temp is a "STEADY" 40C or better. The
reason
> is we'll see the oil temp rise after start to above 40C and than
maybe 2
> minutes later, drop significantly cold again. Reason? The cold
oil
> back in the cooler hit the sensor on the way into the engine. It
is
> usually close to 5 minutes or more before we can exceed 1,000 rpms
for
> taxi.
>
> Oil dilution system was (I was told) "invented" by the Poles at
the
> beginning of WW2. The Germans supposedly picked it up from them,
and
> the allies followed suit. It is not meant to be a long term
procedure
> for cold weather. You add enough fuel from one of your fuel
tanks, to
> keep the oil thinned out for the length of time you will have the
engine
> shut down. That is why that switch is spring loaded OFF. There
were
> tables that told the crew how long (seconds or minutes) to hold
the
> switch open for the length of time the engine was to be shut down.
I
> never saw a table go beyond 24 hours. And once you used the
system you
> were restricted on how soon you could start the engine again. I
hope my
> memory is still good!!
>
> My CJ showed up from China with a little blank on the oil cooler,
oil
> tank, and oil sump. It of course had an oil dilution system. (
With
> the change to the M-14p, I removed the oil dilution system. I now
use
> the valve for the smoke system and the switch for the pre-oiler).
I do
> not and never have used multi grade oil. I go from using 50
(100w) in
> the winter to 60 (120W). I just do not envision myself flying my
CJ in
> really cold climates. IF I did, I would put on a restriction
plate on
> the oil cooler inlet. Also I'd put a electric preheat blank -not
only
> on the oil tank - but the cooler as well. I'd most likely go to a
multi
> grade oil too.
>
> We'll heard of the stories of the Alaska bush pilots, who in the
winter,
> would drain their oil while still warm from their engines and take
it
> into their beds with them. The next day, they'd cook it over a
fire,
> and pour into their engine when ready to start. (Some still do
that I'm
> told.) Anyway extreme temps require extreme measures to able to
> operate. And when you look at the cost of these pre-heat systems
over
> what it might cost in fixing problems caused by the oil being to
cold.
> That might be the "cheap answer"
>
>
> In a message dated 3/8/2009 2:40:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> yakplt@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> Keith I don't have a dog in this fight... I don't sell filters,
> and in fact my engine is completely stock in this regard. So
hey... I
> don't know beans about which filter anyone should use and I am
sure your
> experiences using them is worthwhile telling people about.
>
> Your first posting mentioned increasing engine RPM to taxi the
> aircraft, 2 minutes after starting on a 25 degree day with an oil
tank
> and sump pre-heater operating about 2 hours first. My response is
> simple. Calling a spade a spade: I don't think that is anywhere
near
> enough time to warm up an engine under these conditions and anyone
doing
> what you did is going to subject the engine to extreme stress as
> evidenced by the fact that OIL COOLERS HAVE BLOWN UP UNDER THE
SAME
> CIRCUMSTANCES.
>
> If you or anyone else reading this wants to ignore my opinion in
> this matter, that is up to them. I really could care less.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: keithmckinley <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 8, 2009 8:50:52 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Oil filter
>
> <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
>
> I just stated the fact of my failure. I wasn't impugning the set
> up you sell. You or anyone can take it for what it's worth or not.
>
> Maybe my ground operations were the cause maybe not. But if you
> really want to call a spade a spade you shouldn't be putting a
hydraulic
> filter made for a damn log splitter on an airplane.
>
> Fire away.
>
> Keith
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700 HS
> KFIT
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233682#233682
>
>
>
>
>
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List
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