Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:28 AM - Re: Scott Taliwheel for Yak 55M (Wesley Warner)
2. 09:49 AM - Questions on Tachometer Drive (mike_beresford@yahoo.co.uk)
3. 12:48 PM - Re: Questions on Tachometer Drive (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
4. 03:30 PM - starter woes (Dr Andre Katz)
5. 04:25 PM - Wanted to buy - used or new. (Frank)
6. 04:28 PM - Re: starter woes (Frank)
7. 05:11 PM - Re: starter woes (A. Dennis Savarese)
8. 05:21 PM - Re: starter woes (Dr Andre Katz)
9. 05:39 PM - Re: starter woes (A. Dennis Savarese)
10. 08:29 PM - Re: starter woes (Jim Selby)
11. 08:40 PM - Re: starter woes (Dr Andre Katz)
12. 10:16 PM - Re: starter woes (ronald wasson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Scott Taliwheel for Yak 55M |
I found the one adapter I have here at home. It was packed away. I
have attached a pic of it. In the picture is a gear extender as well,
so you can get an idea of what they look like. This particular Scott
adapter is for a plane without the gear extenders. It will work on
one with them, it's just not perfect.
Wes
On Wed, Mar 18, 2009 at 7:34 PM, Yak 55M <yak55m@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Wes,
>
> that makes sense.- I think I have the extenders, but I will double chec
k.
> Any chance you can provide a photo (sorry to be a pest)?- Thanks for th
e
> follow up on the adapter plate, anything would help.
>
> Regards,
>
> Anthony.
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 18, 2009 at 1:13 PM, Wesley Warner <warner.wesley@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm having some issues getting in touch with the the guy I had making
>> them before. -Hopefully I can see him next week or so. -I thought I
>> had one of the prototypes here, but I guess it's not. -I should be
>> able to find that one next week also.
>>
>> The extenders normally are just some plate material that bolts to the
>> landing gear holes and lowers the axles by about 3". -Most people
>> started using them to run the larger Whirlwind prop and still have an
>> adequate amount of ground clearance.
>>
>> Wes
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 1:12 AM, Yak 55M <yak55m@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > Thanks Wes,
>> >
>> > the previous owner installed Grove 500x5 wheels and tires.- I don't
>> > think I
>> > have gear extenders, from what I can tell the axles are bolted directl
y
>> > to
>> > the base of the legs.- What do the extenders look like, and what is
>> > their
>> > purpose?- I will check my ailerons as you suggested and let you know
if
>> > I
>> > need the bushings.
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> >
>> > Anthony.
>>
>>
>> =======================
>> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Questions on Tachometer Drive |
Hi all
Over the years I have had a few problems with the tachoeter in my Yak-52, which
usually seemed to be resolved by cleaig contacts. Recently the tachometer failed,
and no amount of contact cleaning helped. I suspected a loose wire, so I
checked the cannon plug at the generator side. When I opened it one of the wires
was loose, so I resoldered it and hecked the wiring. During this it became
obvious that I was not the first person to do this - there is a join in the wiring
in the engine bay, as though this section has previously been replaced.
I still cannot get the tachometer to work. I did a bit of work with my multimeter
this morning, and found:
- with both the generator and instrument ends disconnected, I get continuity between
pin 1 of the generator with pin 1 of the instrument, likewise pin 2 to pin
2, pin 3 to pin 3, earth to earth. No continuity between pin 1 generator and
any other pin, except instrument pin 1. Likewise for pins two and three. Pin
4 on the instrument does not appear to be connected to anything. From this I
believe that the wiring is correct and intact.
- When running the engine, I measured the AC voltages on the connector at the tachometer
in the front cockpit. Pin 1 to earth had a small voltage, pin 3 to earth
had a small voltage. No voltage on pin 2 to earth.
>From these results, it seems to me that the fault lies with the tachometer drive
and not with the wiring or tachometer instrument. It seems to have lost a phase.
Before I start removing the drive unit, are there any other tests I can
do to confirm my diagnosis?
ALso, is my assumptinon that each pin on the generator connects to the same number
pin on the instrument valid? It seems logical to me, but there may be some
reason why the order may differ?
Any advice would be appreciated.
As a matter of interest, at least one previous owner of this aircraft had hassles
with tachometer readings.
Thanks
Blue skies
Mike Beresford
South Africa
Message 3
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| Subject: | Questions on Tachometer Drive |
Mike, you have done good tests. It has been my experience that the Russian
wire and their solder is not up to the same quality as one might hope. Here
is a list of things:
1. Replace the wire that actually solders to the tach generator cannon plug
with aircraft grade multi-strand Teflon covered wire. Then SPLICE it is
with a environmental crimp splice to the original Russian wiring about a
foot back. MAKE DARN SURE YOU MAINTAIN TOTAL SHIELDING OF THESE WIRES AND
THAT THE SHIELD IS WELL CONNECTED TO THE CANNON PLUG ITSELF. Loss of
shielding to the tach generator will result in the most horrific noise you
can imagine to the radio and can actually result in burning out the receiver
itself. THAT HAPPENED right here at my airport!
2. Any repairs or previous splices should also be shielded.
Onto your particular problem. Remove (UNSCREW) the Tach Generator from the
engine. It is EASY to do. Remove the cannon plug and simply look for the
bright steel colored ring that has finger holds to unscrew it. Be sure you
know what you are doing here and DO NOT disassemble the accessory plate
itself! Simply unscrew the ring and remove the tach generator. Ok, now go
over to your bench and get a normal variable speed electric drill. Connect
the tachometer generator shaft into the chuck of the electric drill. Have
someone else hold this contraption for you. Now start up the electric drill
and measure from each pin to case ground and between each TWO pins... Such
as 1-2 1-3 2-3 At any given RPM of the drill, you should see equal pin to
pin voltage, and all pin to ground voltages should be close to equal. It's
an easy test, and very effective in finding out if your tach gen is bad,
which from what you describe most likely is.
3. If you lose any single wire, or have the wiring backwards from the tach
gen to the tachometer movement itself in the cockpit, the thing will not
just lay there dead. It will move BACKWARDS, or it will move correctly but
be "way off" from the proper normal pointer indication for the given RPM.
Since you have checked the wiring properly, I would first check the tach gen
just like I mentioned above... If it actually checks GOOD, then try the
airplane with one tach indicator DISCONNECTED and the other one working and
then reverse. It is possible for a bad tach indicator in the cockpit to
load down the voltage making both read zero, but that is extremely rare.
Most likely... You have a bad tach gen, but the drill test will verify it in
about 30 minutes total time.
Good Luck,
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
mike_beresford@yahoo.co.uk
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 12:48 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Questions on Tachometer Drive
Hi all
Over the years I have had a few problems with the tachoeter in my Yak-52,
which usually seemed to be resolved by cleaig contacts. Recently the
tachometer failed, and no amount of contact cleaning helped. I suspected a
loose wire, so I checked the cannon plug at the generator side. When I
opened it one of the wires was loose, so I resoldered it and hecked the
wiring. During this it became obvious that I was not the first person to do
this - there is a join in the wiring in the engine bay, as though this
section has previously been replaced.
I still cannot get the tachometer to work. I did a bit of work with my
multimeter this morning, and found:
- with both the generator and instrument ends disconnected, I get continuity
between pin 1 of the generator with pin 1 of the instrument, likewise pin 2
to pin 2, pin 3 to pin 3, earth to earth. No continuity between pin 1
generator and any other pin, except instrument pin 1. Likewise for pins two
and three. Pin 4 on the instrument does not appear to be connected to
anything. From this I believe that the wiring is correct and intact.
- When running the engine, I measured the AC voltages on the connector at
the tachometer in the front cockpit. Pin 1 to earth had a small voltage, pin
3 to earth had a small voltage. No voltage on pin 2 to earth.
>From these results, it seems to me that the fault lies with the tachometer
drive and not with the wiring or tachometer instrument. It seems to have
lost a phase. Before I start removing the drive unit, are there any other
tests I can do to confirm my diagnosis?
ALso, is my assumptinon that each pin on the generator connects to the same
number pin on the instrument valid? It seems logical to me, but there may be
some reason why the order may differ?
Any advice would be appreciated.
As a matter of interest, at least one previous owner of this aircraft had
hassles with tachometer readings.
Thanks
Blue skies
Mike Beresford
South Africa
Message 4
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my 55m today left me in the middle of nowhere. I have the kimball dual sole
noid system without a filter, when pressure exceeds 600 psi it dumps the st
uff out. I have replaced the old russian starter dual system with a button
that combines the vibrator and the wire to the solenoid that puts air into
the back of the engine. Today for the first time since I have owned the pla
ne, after sitting for 2 months it started on the first blade, then of cours
e went to get a burger 30 miles out and sure enough, with 600 psi in the ta
nk, all I get is a bit of hissing at the push button and no motion of the p
rop, I replaced the solenoid (since I have a second one on board for dumpin
g air wishing that that will make it come home) but no way, i think that th
e chances of any repair go down in direct -proportion of the number of lo
okers around the airplane.
any ideas?I suspect that there is gunk in the system.
appreciate any help.
stuck in Lancaster texas (KLNC)
andres
Message 5
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| Subject: | Wanted to buy - used or new. |
OK, Boys...I may be reaching here but...........I know this email list goes
round the world.
Maybe someone out there can help.
I'm looking for ejection seats, new or recent manufacture, with manufacturer
support for parts like squibs, motors, etc.
The seats should be suitable for or can be adapted to the Saab J-35 Drakken
and Aermacchi MB326B Impala jets.
Initial quantity will be around 10-15 seats.
Please call or email if you have any leads.
Thanks in advance.
Frank Haertlein
760-784-0818
frank@orionite.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: starter woes |
Check your battery voltage. If it's low it can cause the solenoid to not
operate.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr Andre Katz
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 3:26 PM
Subject: Yak-List: starter woes
my 55m today left me in the middle of nowhere. I have the
kimball dual solenoid system without a filter, when pressure exceeds 600
psi it dumps the stuff out. I have replaced the old russian starter dual
system with a button that combines the vibrator and the wire to the
solenoid that puts air into the back of the engine. Today for the first
time since I have owned the plane, after sitting for 2 months it started
on the first blade, then of course went to get a burger 30 miles out and
sure enough, with 600 psi in the tank, all I get is a bit of hissing at
the push button and no motion of the prop, I replaced the solenoid
(since I have a second one on board for dumping air wishing that that
will make it come home) but no way, i think that the chances of any
repair go down in direct proportion of the number of lookers around the
airplane.
any ideas?I suspect that there is gunk in the system.
appreciate any help.
stuck in Lancaster texas (KLNC)
andres
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The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: starter woes |
This may sound too simple, but did you move the prop about 20 degrees
and try starting it again? Sometimes when everything lines up a certain
way, it will just hiss when you hit the start button. Many an M14 has
experienced this problem.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr Andre Katz
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 5:26 PM
Subject: Yak-List: starter woes
my 55m today left me in the middle of nowhere. I have the
kimball dual solenoid system without a filter, when pressure exceeds 600
psi it dumps the stuff out. I have replaced the old russian starter dual
system with a button that combines the vibrator and the wire to the
solenoid that puts air into the back of the engine. Today for the first
time since I have owned the plane, after sitting for 2 months it started
on the first blade, then of course went to get a burger 30 miles out and
sure enough, with 600 psi in the tank, all I get is a bit of hissing at
the push button and no motion of the prop, I replaced the solenoid
(since I have a second one on board for dumping air wishing that that
will make it come home) but no way, i think that the chances of any
repair go down in direct proportion of the number of lookers around the
airplane.
any ideas?I suspect that there is gunk in the system.
appreciate any help.
stuck in Lancaster texas (KLNC)
andres
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: starter woes |
will check the volts tomorrow when I go back
thanks for the suggestion
andres
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: starter woes |
Andre, also check the flexible air line going to the air start spider.
I have seen them crack due to the twist it. The one on my airplane (Yak
52) was one of them. All it did was hiss when I hit the start button.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr Andre Katz
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: starter woes
will check the volts tomorrow when I go back
thanks for the suggestion
andres
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: starter woes |
Chinese Engines as well....
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Dennis Savarese
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: starter woes
This may sound too simple, but did you move the prop about 20 degrees
and try starting it again? Sometimes when everything lines up a certain
way, it will just hiss when you hit the start button. Many an M14 has
experienced this problem.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr Andre Katz
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 5:26 PM
Subject: Yak-List: starter woes
my 55m today left me in the middle of nowhere. I have the
kimball dual solenoid system without a filter, when pressure exceeds 600
psi it dumps the stuff out. I have replaced the old russian starter dual
system with a button that combines the vibrator and the wire to the
solenoid that puts air into the back of the engine. Today for the first
time since I have owned the plane, after sitting for 2 months it started
on the first blade, then of course went to get a burger 30 miles out and
sure enough, with 600 psi in the tank, all I get is a bit of hissing at
the push button and no motion of the prop, I replaced the solenoid
(since I have a second one on board for dumping air wishing that that
will make it come home) but no way, i think that the chances of any
repair go down in direct proportion of the number of lookers around the
airplane.
any ideas?I suspect that there is gunk in the system.
appreciate any help.
stuck in Lancaster texas (KLNC)
andres
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?Yak-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: starter woes |
we moved the prop into many positions I had seen this problem before but the prop
did move a bit every time, this time I got no movement at all at the prop,
we rotated it back, forwards to no avail
thanks
will check the line, the volts, and see what happens tomorrow
thanks
a
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: starter woes |
Leaky exhaust valve. Push start valve and listen to the exhaust and
you will hear a hiss . Starter is stuck on the cylinder and won't
advance air distributor. Move prop a blade and it will start . You
move it off the leaking cylinder to allow starter to pop air to good
cylinder. Will only occur if the prop stops on that cylinder. Some
times it will advance to that cylinder and stop. Get it started
before that cylinder comes around or you have move the prop pass that
cylinder again As the engine warms up it should stop sticking but
will get worse with every run. Fix is to grind valve to stop
sticking / leaking
On Mar 20, 2009, at 10:39 PM, Dr Andre Katz wrote:
>
>
> we moved the prop into many positions I had seen this problem before
> but the prop did move a bit every time, this time I got no movement
> at all at the prop, we rotated it back, forwards to no avail
> thanks
> will check the line, the volts, and see what happens tomorrow
> thanks
> a
>
>
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