Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:25 AM - Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help (Scott Poehlmann)
2. 06:23 AM - Re: Install a GARMIN GPS 296 in a YAK 52 cockpit ? (LawnDart)
3. 09:17 AM - Re: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
4. 09:41 AM - Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help (doug sapp)
5. 09:41 AM - Re: Engine or prop judder on 18 T (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
6. 09:42 AM - Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help (Herb Coussons)
7. 11:12 AM - Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help (Herb Coussons)
8. 11:17 AM - Re: Engine or prop judder on 18 T (Roger Kemp M.D.)
9. 01:34 PM - Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help (doug sapp)
10. 05:37 PM - Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help (Scott Poehlmann)
11. 05:50 PM - Re: Overhauled M14P engines available (Joe Howse)
12. 07:40 PM - Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help (Herb Coussons)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help |
Hi Anthony,
Since the volume of the bottle (and the whole system, in fact) on the 55
is so low, many do not have separate snot valves. Mine for example only
has the valve on the bottom of the tank. I dutifully open it slightly
and drain out the gunk about once a week or so (and you don't need to
completely drain the system, though until you get used to doing it
quickly, be prepared to refill the air system), and at each annual I use
that valve to drain the entire system. It is also the lowest point in
the system, so that's where the gunk ends up.
Scott
Yak 55M wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have finally secured almost everything I need to add a compressor to
> my Yak55M, but I am missing one more item - a snot valve. It seems
> this little item is difficult to get. Any lines on where I can get a
> snot valve would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Anthony.
>
> BTW, thanks for all of the advice in finding the sheer coupling and
> gauge, this list made it happen.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Install a GARMIN GPS 296 in a YAK 52 cockpit ? |
I use RAM mounts. They have one that will mount to the glare shield and hold the
296. It is very sturdy and does not vibrate in flight.
Mount: RAM-B-177-GA7U
http://tinyurl.com/pyojro
I mounted mine in the center. Does cover up the artificial horizon when mounted.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244958#244958
Message 3
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| Subject: | Interference of GPS on Becker VHF |
I am not sure whether I told you this or not Hans, so I might be repeating myself.
If you put in the filters, make sure you GROUND the SHIELD on the original
P lead wire that will then connect to the new filter.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hans Oortman
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 3:44 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
Mark,
Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to do those in the next few days. We have
a few bank holidays any way so, time to fly.
I ordered the filters, just in case, it certainly won't hurt to install these and
at the same time I can check the shielding at the P-lead.
I'll keep you updated!
Hans
Tel: +31 653 286022
________________________________
Van: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] Namens Yak Pilot
Verzonden: donderdag 21 mei 2009 5:37
Aan: yak-list@matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
Hans, this is a much better explanation. Try this. Next time you go fly, leave
the power lead connected for the GPS, but if possible unplug the GPS itself
while leaving the power cord connected to the aircraft. Hopefully there is a
disconnect plug at the GPS itself that would allow you to keep the GPS power cord
connected with the actual GPS removed. Also tell me what happens if you TURN
THE GPS OFF in flight! Does this impact the noise in the radio with the engine
running? If NOT, then for some reason your GPS power cable is either radiating
noise "somehow" or is picking noise up and putting it back into wiring
where it should not be.
While unusual, this kind of thing is not unknown.
I suggest replacing your GPS power wire with dual conductor SHIELDED wire and make
sure the shield is connected to ground at the power connector side only.
Also, reducing RF noise from the Mags by using filters is never a bad idea. Before
you do that, PLEASE check the P lead shields right at the MAG P LEAD CONNECTOR
and make sure they are not twisted off! That happens ALL the time, and
you need to physically check this yourself. When you unscrew the P lead connector
on the mag, be SURE to hold the center of it still as you rotate the knurled
knob or you will twist the shield right off.
Best Regards,
Mark Bitterlich
________________________________
From: Hans Oortman <pa3arw@euronet.nl>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 5:12:12 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
Mark,
Thanks for all the good advise/suggestions. I'll have a look at the shieldings.
When you mentioned this, I went back in history and tried to recall when this
phenoma started to occur. It is only since the last year and a half or so that
this has become a real problem.
I don't fly a lot with gps but when I do, I need it, if you know what I mean.
As far as I can recall it happened after a 100hrs check up (done by our Lithuanian
mechanic). At the same time, almost 2 years ago, I used the opportunity to
install an additional power connector of the Lemo type. These Swiss connectors
are the best you can find and have a lock facility build in rather than the
normal cigarette lighter connectors which are big and have as good as no locking
facility. I use those Lemo's in my company for equipment we design/produce
for cable companies. To make sure that this power lead does not pick up RF, I
installed a RF-choke just before the connector.
When the engine is not running I hear no interference on any channel on the Becker
Radio. The GPS is connected to the YAK52's power and there are no problems
what so ever.
It is only after I start the engine that the problem occurs as long as I have the
GPS connected to the planes power. When I disconnect the power lead (a long
curled cable) from the planes power the problem is gone. The AvMap IV does have
a RF choke in its power lead.
I was under the impression that the problem was caused by the gps but it is the
combination of the set up, i.e. engine, radio, gps, which causes this problem,
not an individual piece of equipment..I think...and only when the engine is
running.
I'll check the shields of the p-leads on both mags. The tacho generator has already
been checked and the shielding of that device is OK.
Installing these filters won't hurt any way, so I'll order them, just in case.
Thanks for your help and advise!
Hans Oortman, MBA, Ph.D.
CEO
STN BV
________________________________
Van: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] Namens Yak Pilot
Verzonden: maandag 18 mei 2009 7:53
Aan: yak-list@matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
Let me clarify a little here. There is a shielded P lead wire. The center conductor
is soldered to a little device that fits into the mag itself and makes
an internal connection to the mag coil. You push this into the mag P lead hole
and THEN screw on the outer shell per se.
The shield for this wire is soldered to a wire CUP that fits into the screw on
portion of the mag P lead connector AKA "The Shell". When you screw in the P
lead connector onto the mag, or OFF of the mag, it is very easy to turn the threaded
portion and ALSO turn the little piece that is soldered to the shield.
If you DO turn this little piece as you screw off the threaded portion of the
P lead connector, you will also twist the shield, and in so-doing will cause
the shield to rip off from the connector. Thus the shield is no longer connected
and there is no ground for it.
It is like MASSIVELY EASY to do this! EVERY SINGLE AIRCRAFT USING AN M-14 ENGINE
I HAVE EVER SEEN HAS AT LEAST SOME DAMAGE IN THIS AREA! Every single one.
This WILL cause radio noise. Every time. (Hans, your problem is likely something
else)
The only way to avoid doing it is to "somehow" carefully hold that cup piece that
sticks out the back of the threaded portion of the connector (the NUT per se)
still as you turn the piece that screws off with your hand. I have a special
tool made to do this. You can use needle nose pliers if you are careful.
But if you ignore this advice and take off a P lead connector... you have VERY
HIGH ODDS of damaging the shield.
Rest assured, if you didn't know this, it is even money that your P lead shields
are at the very minimum "damaged" if not completely broken.
Mark
________________________________
From: Yak Pilot <yakplt@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 12:47:56 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
One of the most common sources of interference to radios is from the P leads.
One of the most common causes for that is the loss of a ground for the shield.
The way this happens is when you unscrew the P lead connector on the mag itself,
you do not also hold the shield cup on the back of the P lead connector still
as you unscrew the P lead connector itself. The result of this is that you
end up twisting the shield right off the connector.
When you do this, the shield is no longer grounded. If the shield is not grounded,
it will radiate noise just like there was no shield there to begin with and
your radios will be filled with static and noise.
So, before you go out and install any kind of filters, ALWAYS make sure that your
P LEAD shields are indeed correctly soldered and attached to the P lead connector
itself.
If everything is ok in that department and you still have noise and decide to try
a P lead filter, install it any way you choose, but make certain that when
you are done, the P lead shield itself still has a proper ground on it, if not
at the P lead connector itself, then in some other manner as you see fit. Do
not allow the P lead wire shield "float", and keep the amount of unshielded P
lead wire as short as possible when installing a filter and keep the length of
the wire from the P lead shield to ground as short as possible as well.
Another terrific source of noise is the Tach Gen, and if the shield on that wire
bundle breaks, the noise can be so strong it will burn out the receiver on a
Balkan 5.
Mark Bitterlich
________________________________
From: Roger Kemp M.D. <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 11:10:52 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
Two magneto filters are required.
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
Yes, we installed both filters.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Hans Oortman <mailto:pa3arw@euronet.nl>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 8:22 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
Dennis,
Did you install the in-line filter as well as the magneto filter??
Hans
________________________________
Van: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] Namens A. Dennis Savarese
Verzonden: zondag 17 mei 2009 15:03
Aan: yak-list@matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
We recently had a problem with Doc's Yak 50 with noise on the Becker VHF. First we installed a nice inline filter on the DC buss; http://www.lonestaraviation.com/product_details.asp?Product_Name=The%20Eliminator. It removed much of the noise, but not all. Then we installed the magneto filters directly on the P leads going into the magnetos. http://www.lonestaraviation.com/product_details.asp?Product_Name=Magneto%20Filter. Bingo.....noise eliminated. I mounted the ground strap to the studs on the accessory case back plate.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Hans Oortman <mailto:pa3arw@euronet.nl>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 7:42 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Interference of GPS on Becker VHF
Guys,
May be some of you on the yak net has some idea how to resolve the following
problem. Mark any suggestions??
I own a Avmap IV GPS, great tool but it is getting a nuisance in the 52.
The following happens: when on the ground GPS switched on, VHF on, engine NOT
running, no interference on VHF at all!
when on the ground GPS switched on, VHF on,
engine running (or in the air for that matter), huge interference on VHF, S5
to 6 noise level, i.e. very difficult comms. When switching over on battery (i.e.
pulling the plug out...) the problem is as good as gone.
Has any body had this experience also and what have you done about it? I am
thinking on a LPF or a separate DC-DC convertor for the AvMap GPS.
In principle the AvMap swallows any voltage between 10 and 36v. I assume that
the 28v generator is not producing a nice DC which causes something to start
generating a noise, in my case the GPS but I do not have an explanation for that
at all....
Any help is appreciated!
Hans
RA3326K / EHSE
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| Subject: | Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help |
As always your mileage may vary but the thought of a rusted or corroded air
bottle exploding in a aircraft really chills my crap!, in my mind it is
simply is not worth the chance. Add to this the fact that your pushing all
the moisture and gunk into your expensive start valve and check valves which
is just not a good deal even if you have replaced all the springs with
stainless steel. IMHO the added cost of a snot valve AND a dessicant filter
will save you a bunch of money and trouble down the road.
Always Yakin,
Doug
On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 4:23 AM, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p@texas.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Anthony,
>
> Since the volume of the bottle (and the whole system, in fact) on the 55 is
> so low, many do not have separate snot valves. Mine for example only has the
> valve on the bottom of the tank. I dutifully open it slightly and drain out
> the gunk about once a week or so (and you don't need to completely drain the
> system, though until you get used to doing it quickly, be prepared to refill
> the air system), and at each annual I use that valve to drain the entire
> system. It is also the lowest point in the system, so that's where the gunk
> ends up.
>
> Scott
>
>
> Yak 55M wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have finally secured almost everything I need to add a compressor to my
>> Yak55M, but I am missing one more item - a snot valve. It seems this little
>> item is difficult to get. Any lines on where I can get a snot valve would
>> be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Anthony.
>>
>> BTW, thanks for all of the advice in finding the sheer coupling and gauge,
>> this list made it happen.
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 5
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| Subject: | Engine or prop judder on 18 T |
This might sound especially stupid and I hesitate to even mention it, but.....
I recently had a very interesting problem in my YAK-50. Along with it becoming
very difficult to start when hot, it also developed a very noticeable shake
at high speeds. Pretty much exactly as you described which is why I am about
to go out on a limb and just mention what happened to me.
Anyway, after a full year of problems with the M-14 not wanting to start when hot,
and after replacing every single piece of the starter ignition system, the
only thing left was the spark plugs. I am using automotive plugs via Dennis's
kit, which by the way is the best thing since sliced bread.
So, I replaced the plugs. The starting problem went away and all is now well.
I really had a hard time believing it was the plugs. Still do in fact, but the
fact is.... The problem is GONE!
ANYWAY ~ Funny thing. The high speed vibration went away too. Mag checks during
all of this were always good. No indication of plug problems at all. Upon
inspection, found that the plug gap was set too wide ... My fault for not double
checking the A&P that was helping me put in the kit way back when. The plugs
were at .032 or so. Dennis recommends .025 I have talked to other folks
who claim .018 is about right, and that wider than .018 can cause "starting problems".
I have mine now gapped at .025 per Dennis's recommendation and everything
is working perfectly, so I will avoid .018, but it is worth keeping in
the back of your head.
Anyway... To get to the point... It's a real long shot, but you might have a spark
plug problem, or some other sort of ignition problem, especially if you are
using the original ignition wiring and ring.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vic
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 5:26 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Engine or prop judder on 18 T
Hello everybody,
our 18 T has developed an engine or prop judder since last year that can be noticed
mainly in high speed low passes at , say, 70 % engine speed and over 250
kph . We replaced all engine mounting rubbers, did a dynamic prop balancing on
the ground with up to 90 % engine speed and the engine felt real smooth. But
in the air at high speed dives the shaking of the engine/prop was still there
- at a very reduced rate, but still noticeable . The setting of the blades was
checked and seemed to be allright in the dynamic balancing . Could we have a
problem with the prop hub in case the prop goes to fully coarse in the dive and
the blade angles in this condition might be different for each blade ? We suspect
some sort of backlash in the hub different for each side ? Has anybody an
idea on that one ? Or could it be an aerodynamic effect specific for the 18
T ? We will dig deeper next weekend but any ideas would be appreciated.
Regards
Helga and Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244696#244696
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help |
Exact same for me, the low point drain for the bottom of the air tank
is mounted just on the Left of the oil cooler doghouse. Although it
would be nice to have a separate valve to relaesa without dumping the
air.
Herb
On May 22, 2009, at 6:23 AM, Scott Poehlmann wrote:
>
> Hi Anthony,
>
> Since the volume of the bottle (and the whole system, in fact) on
> the 55 is so low, many do not have separate snot valves. Mine for
> example only has the valve on the bottom of the tank. I dutifully
> open it slightly and drain out the gunk about once a week or so (and
> you don't need to completely drain the system, though until you get
> used to doing it quickly, be prepared to refill the air system), and
> at each annual I use that valve to drain the entire system. It is
> also the lowest point in the system, so that's where the gunk ends up.
>
> Scott
>
> Yak 55M wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have finally secured almost everything I need to add a compressor
>> to my Yak55M, but I am missing one more item - a snot valve. It
>> seems this little item is difficult to get. Any lines on where I
>> can get a snot valve would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Anthony.
>>
>> BTW, thanks for all of the advice in finding the sheer coupling and
>> gauge, this list made it happen.
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help |
Doug,
If you are familiar with the yak 55 system (maybe they are all unique
as they are each a retrofit), please describe the plumbing to add the
snot valve.
Has any body thought of adding a valve like the Wilga. My Yak 52 TW
has the pull handle is in the cockpit to release the valve. On the
Wilga it was up front behind the right cowl cheek - a screw type valve
that released right there. Which of these types is more like the CJ
or standard Yak?
I would think the Wilga type would be the easiest to plumb for the 55
since the whole air system is in front of the firewall except the fill
port and guage.
Thanks,
Herb
On May 22, 2009, at 11:29 AM, doug sapp wrote:
> As always your mileage may vary but the thought of a rusted or
> corroded air bottle exploding in a aircraft really chills my crap!,
> in my mind it is simply is not worth the chance. Add to this the
> fact that your pushing all the moisture and gunk into your expensive
> start valve and check valves which is just not a good deal even if
> you have replaced all the springs with stainless steel. IMHO the
> added cost of a snot valve AND a dessicant filter will save you a
> bunch of money and trouble down the road.
>
> Always Yakin,
> Doug
>
> On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 4:23 AM, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p@texas.net>
> wrote:
>
> Hi Anthony,
>
> Since the volume of the bottle (and the whole system, in fact) on
> the 55 is so low, many do not have separate snot valves. Mine for
> example only has the valve on the bottom of the tank. I dutifully
> open it slightly and drain out the gunk about once a week or so (and
> you don't need to completely drain the system, though until you get
> used to doing it quickly, be prepared to refill the air system), and
> at each annual I use that valve to drain the entire system. It is
> also the lowest point in the system, so that's where the gunk ends up.
>
> Scott
>
>
> Yak 55M wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have finally secured almost everything I need to add a compressor
> to my Yak55M, but I am missing one more item - a snot valve. It
> seems this little item is difficult to get. Any lines on where I
> can get a snot valve would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Anthony.
>
> BTW, thanks for all of the advice in finding the sheer coupling and
> gauge, this list made it happen.
> *
>
>
> *
>
> ==========
> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
> Always Yakin,
> Doug Sapp
> Phone 509-826-4610
> Fax 509-826-3644
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Engine or prop judder on 18 T |
A glow plug. Quite possible...did not think of that one. The exact way a
diesel engine or R/C model airplane engine runs...well used to before
turbines and 4 stroke chainsaw engines were introduced the modeling
communities.
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G
CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 11:30 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Engine or prop judder on 18 T
This might sound especially stupid and I hesitate to even mention it,
but..... I recently had a very interesting problem in my YAK-50. Along
with it becoming very difficult to start when hot, it also developed a very
noticeable shake at high speeds. Pretty much exactly as you described which
is why I am about to go out on a limb and just mention what happened to me.
Anyway, after a full year of problems with the M-14 not wanting to start
when hot, and after replacing every single piece of the starter ignition
system, the only thing left was the spark plugs. I am using automotive
plugs via Dennis's kit, which by the way is the best thing since sliced
bread.
So, I replaced the plugs. The starting problem went away and all is now
well. I really had a hard time believing it was the plugs. Still do in
fact, but the fact is.... The problem is GONE!
ANYWAY ~ Funny thing. The high speed vibration went away too. Mag checks
during all of this were always good. No indication of plug problems at all.
Upon inspection, found that the plug gap was set too wide ... My fault for
not double checking the A&P that was helping me put in the kit way back
when. The plugs were at .032 or so. Dennis recommends .025 I have talked
to other folks who claim .018 is about right, and that wider than .018 can
cause "starting problems". I have mine now gapped at .025 per Dennis's
recommendation and everything is working perfectly, so I will avoid .018,
but it is worth keeping in the back of your head.
Anyway... To get to the point... It's a real long shot, but you might have a
spark plug problem, or some other sort of ignition problem, especially if
you are using the original ignition wiring and ring.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vic
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 5:26 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Engine or prop judder on 18 T
Hello everybody,
our 18 T has developed an engine or prop judder since last year that can be
noticed mainly in high speed low passes at , say, 70 % engine speed and over
250 kph . We replaced all engine mounting rubbers, did a dynamic prop
balancing on the ground with up to 90 % engine speed and the engine felt
real smooth. But in the air at high speed dives the shaking of the
engine/prop was still there - at a very reduced rate, but still noticeable .
The setting of the blades was checked and seemed to be allright in the
dynamic balancing . Could we have a problem with the prop hub in case the
prop goes to fully coarse in the dive and the blade angles in this condition
might be different for each blade ? We suspect some sort of backlash in the
hub different for each side ? Has anybody an idea on that one ? Or could it
be an aerodynamic effect specific for the 18 T ? We will dig deeper next
weekend but any ideas would be appreciated.
Regards
Helga and Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244696#244696
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help |
Herb,Am really not sure of the plumbing on the 55 or the 52 for that matter.
From your description the Wilga snot valve sounds like the one used on a CJ
wherein you reach inside the cowl and turn the knob/wheel and depending on
which way the wind is blowing it blows crap all over your right leg or foot.
To add a snot valve to any system is not difficult and I have the valves
and most if not all the fitting here in my stock. Give me a call if I can
be of help. 509-826-4610
I will be at Red Star 24th--the 1st.
Always Yakin,
Doug
On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 11:09 AM, Herb Coussons <drc@wscare.com> wrote:
> Doug,If you are familiar with the yak 55 system (maybe they are all unique
> as they are each a retrofit), please describe the plumbing to add the snot
> valve.
> Has any body thought of adding a valve like the Wilga. My Yak 52 TW has
> the pull handle is in the cockpit to release the valve. On the Wilga it was
> up front behind the right cowl cheek - a screw type valve that released
> right there. Which of these types is more like the CJ or standard Yak?
>
> I would think the Wilga type would be the easiest to plumb for the 55 since
> the whole air system is in front of the firewall except the fill port and
> guage.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Herb
>
>
> On May 22, 2009, at 11:29 AM, doug sapp wrote:
>
> As always your mileage may vary but the thought of a rusted or corroded air
> bottle exploding in a aircraft really chills my crap!, in my mind it is
> simply is not worth the chance. Add to this the fact that your pushing all
> the moisture and gunk into your expensive start valve and check valves which
> is just not a good deal even if you have replaced all the springs with
> stainless steel. IMHO the added cost of a snot valve AND a dessicant filter
> will save you a bunch of money and trouble down the road.
> Always Yakin,
> Doug
>
> On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 4:23 AM, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p@texas.net>wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Anthony,
>>
>> Since the volume of the bottle (and the whole system, in fact) on the 55
>> is so low, many do not have separate snot valves. Mine for example only has
>> the valve on the bottom of the tank. I dutifully open it slightly and drain
>> out the gunk about once a week or so (and you don't need to completely drain
>> the system, though until you get used to doing it quickly, be prepared to
>> refill the air system), and at each annual I use that valve to drain the
>> entire system. It is also the lowest point in the system, so that's where
>> the gunk ends up.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>>
>> Yak 55M wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I have finally secured almost everything I need to add a compressor to my
>>> Yak55M, but I am missing one more item - a snot valve. It seems this little
>>> item is difficult to get. Any lines on where I can get a snot valve would
>>> be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Anthony.
>>>
>>> BTW, thanks for all of the advice in finding the sheer coupling and
>>> gauge, this list made it happen.
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>> ==========
>> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Always Yakin,
> Doug Sapp
> Phone 509-826-4610
> Fax 509-826-3644
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help |
Hi Dennis,
I agree with your concern, but the system in a most 55's is different
than that in the 52 (or even the 50). First off, I (and most others)
have an overboard dump line--99% of the time the compressor is pumping
air overboard and NOT through the system, thus most of the time the
system is sealed. I dutifully check for "snot" but essentially NEVER get
anything out. Second, the system ONLY operates the starter--thus the
lines are short and relatively straight--in fact my entire air system is
on the engine side of the firewall except for the line to the cockpit
pressure guage. Third, I at least have my tank visually inspected every
other annual or so, so I know it isn't corroded (as a gynecologist, I
find it fascinating that the exact same instrument I call a "diagnostic
hysteroscope" and which costs over $15,000 can be had by an A&P for <
$500 when it is called a "flexible boroscope"... but that's another
discussion...). Given these things, I don't think that using the tank
bottom drain valve as the snot valve is unreasonable--adding such a
valve would just give me another point from which the system could leak.
But the concern about corrosion is very real--just one look at the 52
from England that had the bottle explode is enough to convince me!
Best,
Scott
doug sapp wrote:
> As always your mileage may vary but the thought of a rusted or
> corroded air bottle exploding in a aircraft really chills my crap!, in
> my mind it is simply is not worth the chance. Add to this the fact
> that your pushing all the moisture and gunk into your expensive start
> valve and check valves which is just not a good deal even if you have
> replaced all the springs with stainless steel. IMHO the added cost of
> a snot valve AND a dessicant filter will save you a bunch of money and
> trouble down the road.
>
> Always Yakin,
> Doug
>
> On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 4:23 AM, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p@texas.net
> <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>>
>
> Hi Anthony,
>
> Since the volume of the bottle (and the whole system, in fact) on
> the 55 is so low, many do not have separate snot valves. Mine for
> example only has the valve on the bottom of the tank. I dutifully
> open it slightly and drain out the gunk about once a week or so
> (and you don't need to completely drain the system, though until
> you get used to doing it quickly, be prepared to refill the air
> system), and at each annual I use that valve to drain the entire
> system. It is also the lowest point in the system, so that's where
> the gunk ends up.
>
> Scott
>
>
> Yak 55M wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I have finally secured almost everything I need to add a
> compressor to my Yak55M, but I am missing one more item - a
> snot valve. It seems this little item is difficult to get.
> Any lines on where I can get a snot valve would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Anthony.
>
> BTW, thanks for all of the advice in finding the sheer
> coupling and gauge, this list made it happen.
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ==========
> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
> Always Yakin,
> Doug Sapp
> Phone 509-826-4610
> Fax 509-826-3644
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Overhauled M14P engines available |
Denni
How much?
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Dennis Savarese
To: yak-list@matronics.com ; m14pengines-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 5:50 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Overhauled M14P engines available
If anyone is interested in an overhauled M14P engine with prop flange
for V530 or MTV 9 propeller, overhauled by SC Motorstar in 2008 with
overhaul paperwork, please contact me off-list. I have 3 engines
available. They are here in the US and presently stored in a climate
controlled storage facility in Alabama.
I will be happy to discuss a serviceable core exchange with you as
well.
Dennis
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Still looking for a snot valve - help |
Are you kidding - a gynecologist?
Me too! And I actually have used a flexible hysteroscope on an
airplane.
I have the same experience with the 55, I get hardly any return when I
use the valve connected to the bottom of the tank. Whereas the CJ
description that Doug gave, turning the knob behind the cowl on the
Wilga dumped the biggest mess you can imagine.
Herb Coussons
On May 22, 2009, at 7:35 PM, Scott Poehlmann wrote:
>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> I agree with your concern, but the system in a most 55's is
> different than that in the 52 (or even the 50). First off, I (and
> most others) have an overboard dump line--99% of the time the
> compressor is pumping air overboard and NOT through the system, thus
> most of the time the system is sealed. I dutifully check for "snot"
> but essentially NEVER get anything out. Second, the system ONLY
> operates the starter--thus the lines are short and relatively
> straight--in fact my entire air system is on the engine side of the
> firewall except for the line to the cockpit pressure guage. Third, I
> at least have my tank visually inspected every other annual or so,
> so I know it isn't corroded (as a gynecologist, I find it
> fascinating that the exact same instrument I call a "diagnostic
> hysteroscope" and which costs over $15,000 can be had by an A&P for
> < $500 when it is called a "flexible boroscope"... but that's
> another discussion...). Given these things, I don't think that using
> the tank bottom drain valve as the snot valve is unreasonable--
> adding such a valve would just give me another point from which the
> system could leak. But the concern about corrosion is very real--
> just one look at the 52 from England that had the bottle explode is
> enough to convince me!
>
> Best,
>
> Scott
>
> doug sapp wrote:
>> As always your mileage may vary but the thought of a rusted or
>> corroded air bottle exploding in a aircraft really chills my crap!,
>> in my mind it is simply is not worth the chance. Add to this the
>> fact that your pushing all the moisture and gunk into your
>> expensive start valve and check valves which is just not a good
>> deal even if you have replaced all the springs with stainless
>> steel. IMHO the added cost of a snot valve AND a dessicant filter
>> will save you a bunch of money and trouble down the road.
>> Always Yakin,
>> Doug
>>
>> On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 4:23 AM, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p@texas.net
>> <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>> wrote:
>>
>> <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>>
>>
>> Hi Anthony,
>>
>> Since the volume of the bottle (and the whole system, in fact) on
>> the 55 is so low, many do not have separate snot valves. Mine for
>> example only has the valve on the bottom of the tank. I dutifully
>> open it slightly and drain out the gunk about once a week or so
>> (and you don't need to completely drain the system, though until
>> you get used to doing it quickly, be prepared to refill the air
>> system), and at each annual I use that valve to drain the entire
>> system. It is also the lowest point in the system, so that's where
>> the gunk ends up.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>>
>> Yak 55M wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have finally secured almost everything I need to add a
>> compressor to my Yak55M, but I am missing one more item - a
>> snot valve. It seems this little item is difficult to get.
>> Any lines on where I can get a snot valve would be greatly
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Anthony.
>>
>> BTW, thanks for all of the advice in finding the sheer
>> coupling and gauge, this list made it happen.
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Always Yakin,
>> Doug Sapp
>> Phone 509-826-4610
>> Fax 509-826-3644
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
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