Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:17 AM - Re: Excessive R Mag Drop (A. Dennis Savarese)
2. 07:50 AM - Re: Need Mechanic N.Calif (James Bourke)
3. 01:43 PM - Re: External fuel tanks - update (Deon Esterhuizen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive R Mag Drop |
Hi Scott,
Once you get your hands on the timing box and properly set the timing,
then we'll see what the mag drop is. If you have any questions on how
to set the timing, contact me off-list or call me and I will try to
help.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Poehlmann
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Excessive R Mag Drop
Hi Dennis,
Actually, my brakes do hold at 70% (Matco's)... But that didn't fix
the
problem. I don't think that the brakes on the Su29 did hold at 70%, so
I
suspect that is ultimately the reason for the 60-65%.
I completely reset the mags back to spec as per your description and
the
installation task card, and... (drum roll...) drop on the L mag went
to
about 1.9% and on the R mag to 8.5%, which is certainly better than
almost 10% but still not quite right. I didn't have the ability to
synchronize between them (no timing box--but I have access to one),
but
will try that. I have a temp sensor on the way, and will shoot the
cylinders to make sure all are firing on the R mag, but since the
engine
runs smoothly (albeit at a lower rpm) I _doubt_ that I have a bad plug
wire. If synchronizing them doesn't fix the problem, and there aren't
any cold cylinders (and the resistances on the wires all check) then I
am out of ideas and guess I'll need to find a replacement mag.
Thanks for being patient with me...<VBG>
Scott
A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> Hi Scott,
> There are 3 points to line up with the rotor. 1- the center of the
> rotor; 2- the contact point on the rotor; 3- the scribe mark on the
> boss of the mag. First set the point gap to .25 to .35 mm or
> .010-.014. Then check the timing using your timing box or "buzz
box",
> which should be between 14.5 and 16.5 degrees BTDC. Once the timing
> is set, NOW check the rotor position to make sure the 3 points line
> up. The leading (rotating counter clockwise) point on the rotor is
> the one that is used during normal operation. This point should be
> lined up with the scribe mark when the timing is set. The trailing
> point is for the starting coil. Finally, when synchronizing the
> mags, use what I call the "fine" timing adjustment eccentric which I
> pointed out in the diagram. This eccentric is on the opposite side
of
> the points. Using your timing box connected to both mags, you can
> tweak one mag to the other using this fine timing adjustment.
>
> I doubt the BR6's will solve the problem. But the engine will run
> much more efficiently with them.
>
> I believe someone made an excellent post yesterday about doing the
> run-up at 60-65% on the Yak 55 because the brakes would not hold at
> 70%. Makes perfect sense to me.
>
> Let me know how you make out.
> Dennis
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Scott Poehlmann <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>
> *To:* yak-list@matronics.com <mailto:yak-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, August 31, 2009 9:53 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Yak-List: Excessive R Mag Drop
>
<scott-p@texas.net
> <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>>
>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> Thanks for the usual thorough and thoughtful info. I will do all
> of your
> suggestions. I was under the misapprehension that the slots in
the
> rotor
> were to allow for synchronization between the two mags, which
led
> me to
> the idea of checking a variety of positions. Hopefully I have
not
> damaged the caps, although I have only run the engine for a
total of
> perhaps 15 minutes since varying the rotor position. I will
reset
> it to
> the boss mark (which I hopefully can find...) as specified in
your
> e-mail. Please confirm that it is the CENTER LINE of the rotor
(which
> has two contacts on it, one in front of the other, separated by
> perhaps
> 0.5 cm; thus the center line is between the two contacts...)
which
> is to
> be aligned with the scribe mark.
>
> I am going to try the BR6 plugs and see if that fixes the
problem,
> and
> will also see if I can identify a "cold" cylinder. Failing that
I'll
> measure the resistances of the plug wires.
>
> As to doing the run-up at 65%, I was taught this (I think by
Nik...)
> when I first transitioned into an Su-29 about 7 years ago and
frankly
> have never given it any thought since then.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Scott
>
> A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> > Scott,
> > A couple of comments based on your post. These comments will
most
> > likely not change the mag drop. But I believe are important.
> >
> > - Mag checks are typically done at 70%, although the large mag
drop
> > would most likely not change by doing the mag check at 60-65%.
> > - The BR7HS plugs are a "colder" plug and I would suggest
> changing to
> > BR6HS plugs. Gap the new plugs to .21 -.22. We have found
the
> BR6HS
> > plugs to be a much better plug for the M14 than either the
BR7's
> or 8's.
> > - Rotating the distributor rotor just for the sake of trying
to
> reduce
> > the mag drop is definitely a no-no. You are forcing the rotor
> point
> > off the center contact of the mag cap ie: making the spark
jump the
> > gap. You could be damaging the mag cap. The reason the rotor
has
> > slots in it is to enable the mechanic to properly align the
> position
> > of the rotor to the scribed mark on the boss of the magneto
(the
> mag
> > cover mating surface once the mag timing is properly set).
See
> > attached. This positions the rotor point to the center of the
> contact
> > inside the magneto cap when the mag cap is installed. I would
> > recommend you recheck the timing and after properly setting
the
> > timing, reset the rotor by placing a straight edge across the
> center
> > of the rotor to the rotor point, then loosen the 3 screws and
> > align the center and the point of the rotor to the scribe mark
> on the
> > boss of the mag.
> >
> > Since you are getting a large mag drop, you can possibly
isolate
> the
> > faulty cylinder (plug not firing) by running the mag on the
BAD
> mag to
> > see what cylinders are not firing. Start the engine and
> immediately
> > rotate the mag switch to the #2 mag and leave it there. You
> said #2
> > was giving you the large mag drop. Now let it run for a few
> minutes
> > on the bad mag. Shut the engine down. Using a laser
temperature
> > sensor which you can buy at Radio Shack, measure the
temperature of
> > each cylinder at exactly the same point on each cylinder.
Pick
> a spot
> > that is easy to "shoot" with the laser. Just make sure you
measure
> > the temps at the same location on every cylinder. You will
likely
> > find a cylinder that is much colder than the others. That
will
> be the
> > suspect wire/plug. It could also be a small crack in the mag
cap
> > between the contact points. Look for carbon traces in the mag
> cap.
> > Replace the cap for testing purposes. But be sure to align
the
> rotor
> > point to the scribe mark before replacing the cap.
> >
> > Regarding the mag drop, since you are using the 8 mm wires,
you can
> > measure the resistance of the wires from the spark plug end to
> the mag
> > cap. Starting with the longest wire, (left mag #6; right mag
#5)
> > measure the resistance of the wires using a digital ohm meter.
The
> > shorter the wire, the less resistance. If you find a bad
wire, (no
> > resistance) remove the end from the mag cap, cut off about
3/8",
> > reinstall and screw in the wire-piercing screw. Then check
the
> > resistance again. If the wire still reads completely open (no
> > resistance), contact me off-list and I can order you a new
wire.
> >
> > I hope this helps.
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > *From:* Scott Poehlmann <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>
> > *To:* yak-list@matronics.com
<mailto:yak-list@matronics.com>
> <mailto:yak-list@matronics.com>
> > *Sent:* Sunday, August 30, 2009 9:20 PM
> > *Subject:* Yak-List: Excessive R Mag Drop
> >
> <scott-p@texas.net <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>
> > <mailto:scott-p@texas.net>>
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> >
> > My lovely M9F (okay, "Phi", but I don't have that key on
this
> > keyboard...<VBG>) magnetos (mounted on a Yak-55M) seem to
have
> > developed
> > an issue, and I need some help toubleshooting it. The
> problem is an
> > excessive mag drop on the right (#2) mag. Mag checks done
> between 60%
> > and 65% yield a 2.5-2.9% drop on the Left mag (#1) and
> (initially) a
> > 9.5-9.9% drop on the Right (#2). Here is what I have done
so far
> > and the
> > effect:
> >
> > 1) Replaced the plugs (NGK BR7HS gapped at 0.25). No
effect.
> N.B.,
> > the
> > ignition wires are US 8 mm automotive wires and are just
over 18
> > months old.
> > 2) Checked the point gap (and cleaned everything in the
top
> of the
> > mag
> > with Isopropanol). Gap correct at 0.3 mm. No effect.
> > 3) Reset the distributor rotor to full "aft" (i.e.,
opposite the
> > direction of rotation) position. No effect.
> > 4) Reset distributor rotor to mid-position. Decreased drop
on
> > Right mag
> > to about 8.5%.
> > 5) Reset distributor rotor to full "forward" position
(i.e., in
> > direction of rotation). Decreased drop on Right mag to
about
> 7.7-7.9%.
> >
> > This is the best that I can get. Obviously, this isn't
good
> enough...
> >
> > Any ideas on what the problem is and (more importantly to
me),
> > what the
> > solution is? Preferably without recourse to "buy a new
mag"...
> >
> > I'm stumped.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Scott Poehlmann
> > Yak 55M p; Navigator Photoshare, and
> >
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics
>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics>=
=======================<;
>
> > via the Web
> >
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> <http://forums.matronics.com%22%3Ehttp://forums.matronics.com>
> > _p; generous bsp;
> >
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/c>=
===============
> >
> >
> Navigator Photoshare, and
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics
========================<
;
> via the Web
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _p; generous bsp;
>
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>
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> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Need Mechanic N.Calif |
I work with Cardan Aircraft in Red Bluff with my Yak-54, Russian Thunder. They
can help you out.
CardanAircraft.com. 530-527-6547. Ask for Mike.
American Propeller does not service radial engines. They can overhaul the prop,
but they don't want anything to do with it once it is on the airplane so they
won't work on the vibration issues. Good folks otherwise. Cardan can get this
work done, but it will take time because they don't have the equipment in-house.
They have a contact who does it.
There is a person up in Troutdale, Oregon, who can handle it also.
Those are the only options I know of. I live in Corvallis, Oregon, fyi.
Jim
Message 3
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| Subject: | External fuel tanks - update |
Just an update on the FAA approval of the external tanks in compliance
with my ops limits.
I just got off the phone with the assigned FAA inspector and his
recommendation is since this is not a major modification to the aircraft
as stated by the manufacturer - it is not necessary to get approval from
the FAA. I now have to send a second letter stating that this is he's
recommendation and he will reply - that means I fly.. :-)
Deon.
________________________________
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deon
Esterhuizen
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:54 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: External fuel tanks
Cliff, I got more emails about info on the tanks and installation. I
will get all the info together over the weekend, since I have to start
doing it for the FAA anyway and make it available. If anybody else want
this info just let me know.
________________________________
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
netmaster15@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 8:41 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: External fuel tanks
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Deon Esterhuizen" <desterhuizen@jdlsolutions.com>
Subject: RE: Yak-List: External fuel tanks
DEON, I am interested in any further info you can provide, including
video if poss.. Thankyou for your generous assistance.
Cliff; netmaster15@juno.com
Cliff - 45 Liters aside, gives you about 90 min more fuel.
The kit comes with two electrical fuel pumps that you install in the
wing root and then manually pump fuel into the mains. Let me know if you
want more info - I have a bunch of photos and an installation video that
came with the tanks.
Deon.
________________________________
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
netmaster15@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: External fuel tanks
Deon, How many gallons does each aux fuel tank hold and where do they
feed to--main tank or engine? Thank you for your response. Regards.
Cliff Umscheid, YAK 50
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Deon Esterhuizen" <desterhuizen@jdlsolutions.com>
Subject: Yak-List: External fuel tanks
Guys,
I have external fuel tanks installed on my Yak 52. I'm now in the
process of getting al the paperwork in place. The tanks are distributed
by M-14P and manufactured by Red Star Aviation in Australia.
My ops limitations specify I have to notify the local FSDO of major
changes such as this. FSDO requested that I compile a letter with as
much as possible information about the installation especially other
installations, drawings, photos etc.
Has anybody on the list gone thru this process? or have information I
can include in my letter regarding installations etc.
Thanks in advance,
Deon Esterhuizen
Yak52
Clearwater FL 33762
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