Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:22 AM - Re: Smoke Systems (doug sapp)
2. 06:59 AM - Re: smoke systems (Mozam)
3. 07:13 AM - Re: M-14P chip detector (Mozam)
4. 07:26 AM - Re: Re: M-14P chip detector (A. Dennis Savarese)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: M-14P chip detector (Mozam)
6. 07:55 AM - Re: Re: M-14P chip detector (Don Milbourn)
7. 08:35 AM - Re: Re: M-14P chip detector (A. Dennis Savarese)
8. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: M-14P chip detector (nc69666@aol.com)
9. 09:11 AM - Re: Smoke Systems (William Halverson)
10. 09:14 AM - Re: Re: M-14P chip detector (doug sapp)
11. 09:19 AM - Re: Re: M-14P chip detector (Don Milbourn)
12. 10:11 AM - Re: Looking for Yak flight training (Barry Hancock)
13. 01:07 PM - YAK 18T Battery (tigeryak18t)
14. 01:25 PM - Re: ultrasonic leak detectors (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
15. 03:02 PM - Re: YAK 18T Battery (tigeryak18t)
16. 03:42 PM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
17. 05:03 PM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
18. 07:29 PM - Re: Smoke Systems (Roger Kemp M.D.)
19. 09:32 PM - CJ6 Propellor (Walter Lannon)
20. 11:09 PM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Didier.blouzard)
21. 11:39 PM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (nc69666@aol.com)
22. 11:52 PM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Michael Wikstrom)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Smoke Systems |
Reade,More gain will come from pressurizing the cockpit with fresh ram air
than trying to seal the cockpit against smoke entering it. Once you equal
or exceed the pressure outside when compared the the pressure inside the
smoke will become a non issue.
Doug
On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 7:43 PM, Genzlinger, Reade <ReadeG@cairnwood.com>wrote:
>
> Anyone have the Termikas fabricated smoke system installed? I am flying
> a 52TD with their system and it works quite well. I have no
> documentation, however (capacity - which I have figured pretty close,
> type of pump, pressures, etc.). Any information would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> BTW - it is plumbed into both stacks and makes lots of smoke - a good
> portion of which ends up in the cockpit. I am gap sealing everything
> imaginable!
>
> Reade Genzlinger
> Cairnwood Cooperative Corporation
> mailto:readeg@cairnwood.com
> 215.914.0370
>
>
--
Douglas Sapp
Doug Sapp LLC
18B Riverview Road
Omak WA 98841
PH 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
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Subject: | Re: smoke systems |
Hi Reade,
I was finding myself blinded by smoke in the cockpit during our airshow routine.
Makes it real hard to hang on the wing during loops and rolls! Photos showed
that I (sitting in the cockpit) was not able to be seen by someone outside
the plane because I was completely engulfed in smoke (and CO!!).
Through much experimentation, here is what worked for me to greatly reduce the
smoke level in the cockpit:
-Drop the lower panels where the wings and fuselage attach. Put a bright light
in each cockpit and crawl under the plane. Now you can see every gap to seal.
I used very light weight aluminum tape I bought at Lowes. You can skip your
Pilates class that day...you'll see what I mean. :D
-With any g loading above 1 g, the pilot's right side exhaust comes up over the
wing (and into the cockpit). The more AOA (g loading), the more smoke over the
wing. I greatly reduced my problem by removing that injector. The difference
in smoke produced is undetectable in video tapes make before and after. I
highly recommend a Smoking Airplane's injector. I never got a home made one
to work as well, and I tried a LOT of them. Not to say good home made ones don't
exist, but I never got one to work.
-Do not put the one injector high up in the exhaust system. Smoke leaks out of
every joint and finds its way into the cockpit.
Doing all the above will significantly reduce your cockpit smoke levels. Beware
however, during hammerheads, tumbles and such, you cannot help but get some
smoke in the cockpit. You just cannot totally eliminate it.
I hope we see your TD back East, flying with us next summer,
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267738#267738
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Subject: | Re: M-14P chip detector |
Thanks Dennis and Rich. I already tried a quick RTV patch fix and complete cleaning/inspection,
which helped some. Next step is to remove it and do a "thorough"
RTV repair.
Question: Why do I have a "Chip" light with the engine shut off, but it goes out
after start and warm up and RPM above about 1200? It "appears" that increased
oil pressure, which seems to make the light go out, is involved with this problem
and not worn rubber insulation. Anybody have any experience with this?
Thanks,
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267739#267739
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Subject: | Re: M-14P chip detector |
About all I can think of is to make certain the two sections of the chip
detector screen are perfectly aligned and tight. There are some "disks"
between the two sections and if they are loose, will allow the chip
detector screen in the rear section to shift around. Make certain the
nut on the front of the chip detector at the center of the end with the
rubber insulation is tight. A loose nut here will cause the looseness
in the two sections. This can cause an erroneous and intermittent chip
light to come on.
Carefully inspect the wiring from the chip detector screen back to
through the baffling and firewall. Any intermittent ground on this wire
will cause the chip light to come on.
Lastly, try replacing the chip detector screen assembly and see if the
problem disappears.
Let us know what you find.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Mozam
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 9:13 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M-14P chip detector
Thanks Dennis and Rich. I already tried a quick RTV patch fix and
complete cleaning/inspection, which helped some. Next step is to remove
it and do a "thorough" RTV repair.
Question: Why do I have a "Chip" light with the engine shut off, but
it goes out after start and warm up and RPM above about 1200? It
"appears" that increased oil pressure, which seems to make the light go
out, is involved with this problem and not worn rubber insulation.
Anybody have any experience with this?
Thanks,
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267739#267739
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Subject: | Re: M-14P chip detector |
Thanks Dennis, I'll keep ya posted.
BTW, if I need to replace this chip detector who has one? Doug? Jill?
Cheers,
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267742#267742
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Subject: | Re: M-14P chip detector |
Hi Steve
If you wan't a good sealant to use you might try Permatex Right Stuff Item #
29208 this is the best rtv gsaket stuff . Care must be taken when removing
the part after using this stuff it will seal anything, well almost anything.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mozam" <sdalton@hughes.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 8:13 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M-14P chip detector
>
> Thanks Dennis and Rich. I already tried a quick RTV patch fix and
complete cleaning/inspection, which helped some. Next step is to remove it
and do a "thorough" RTV repair.
>
> Question: Why do I have a "Chip" light with the engine shut off, but it
goes out after start and warm up and RPM above about 1200? It "appears"
that increased oil pressure, which seems to make the light go out, is
involved with this problem and not worn rubber insulation. Anybody have any
experience with this?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267739#267739
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: M-14P chip detector |
Don,
Does this sealant cure to solid like other RTV or does it remain soft
and sticky?
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Milbourn
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: M-14P chip detector
<valleyauto@clearwire.net>
Hi Steve
If you wan't a good sealant to use you might try Permatex Right Stuff
Item #
29208 this is the best rtv gsaket stuff . Care must be taken when
removing
the part after using this stuff it will seal anything, well almost
anything.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mozam" <sdalton@hughes.net>
To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 8:13 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M-14P chip detector
>
> Thanks Dennis and Rich. I already tried a quick RTV patch fix and
complete cleaning/inspection, which helped some. Next step is to
remove it
and do a "thorough" RTV repair.
>
> Question: Why do I have a "Chip" light with the engine shut off, but
it
goes out after start and warm up and RPM above about 1200? It
"appears"
that increased oil pressure, which seems to make the light go out, is
involved with this problem and not worn rubber insulation. Anybody
have any
experience with this?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267739#267739
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: M-14P chip detector |
Steve,? Gary here in Las Vegas,, I have had a similar situation on my CJ with a?Capacitance
Fuel sending unit, it would indicate empty until I was at about 1200
RPM when the Alternator would come on line and then?it would work ok , since
then it has fixed itself, so Dennis's suggestion about a ground connection,
or possibly B+ connection may have some resistance, may be a good thought...?Just
a thought..? Good Luck... Gary
?
-----Original Message-----
From: Mozam <sdalton@hughes.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 13, 2009 7:13 am
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M-14P chip detector
Thanks Dennis and Rich. I already tried a quick RTV patch fix and complete
cleaning/inspection, which helped some. Next step is to remove it and do a
"thorough" RTV repair.
Question: Why do I have a "Chip" light with the engine shut off, but it goes out
after start and warm up and RPM above about 1200? It "appears" that increased
oil pressure, which seems to make the light go out, is involved with this
problem and not worn rubber insulation. Anybody have any experience with this?
Thanks,
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267739#267739
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Smoke Systems |
Good point - sealing exhaust gaps did not work in my 55 either ...
+-----Original Message-----
+From: doug sapp [mailto:dougsappllc@gmail.com]
+Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 06:15 AM
+To: yak-list@matronics.com
+Subject: Re: Yak-List: Smoke Systems
+
+Reade,More gain will come from pressurizing the cockpit with fresh ram air
+than trying to seal the cockpit against smoke entering it. Once you equal
+or exceed the pressure outside when compared the the pressure inside the
+smoke will become a non issue.
+
+Doug
+
+On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 7:43 PM, Genzlinger, Reade <ReadeG@cairnwood.com>wrote:
+
+>
+> Anyone have the Termikas fabricated smoke system installed? I am flying
+> a 52TD with their system and it works quite well. I have no
+> documentation, however (capacity - which I have figured pretty close,
+> type of pump, pressures, etc.). Any information would be greatly
+> appreciated.
+>
+> BTW - it is plumbed into both stacks and makes lots of smoke - a good
+> portion of which ends up in the cockpit. I am gap sealing everything
+> imaginable!
+>
+> Reade Genzlinger
+> Cairnwood Cooperative Corporation
+> mailto:readeg@cairnwood.com
+> 215.914.0370
+>
+>
+>
+>
+>
+>
+
+
+--
+Douglas Sapp
+Doug Sapp LLC
+18B Riverview Road
+Omak WA 98841
+PH 509-826-4610
+Fax 509-826-3644
+
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: M-14P chip detector |
Steve,No chip detectors in stock.
doug
On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 7:41 AM, Mozam <sdalton@hughes.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks Dennis, I'll keep ya posted.
>
> BTW, if I need to replace this chip detector who has one? Doug? Jill?
>
> Cheers,
> Steve
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267742#267742
>
>
--
Douglas Sapp
Doug Sapp LLC
18B Riverview Road
Omak WA 98841
PH 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: M-14P chip detector |
Dennis,
It cures solid it sticks to any thing.
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Dennis Savarese
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: M-14P chip detector
Don,
Does this sealant cure to solid like other RTV or does it remain soft
and sticky?
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Milbourn
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: M-14P chip detector
<valleyauto@clearwire.net>
Hi Steve
If you wan't a good sealant to use you might try Permatex Right
Stuff Item #
29208 this is the best rtv gsaket stuff . Care must be taken when
removing
the part after using this stuff it will seal anything, well almost
anything.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mozam" <sdalton@hughes.net>
To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 8:13 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M-14P chip detector
>
> Thanks Dennis and Rich. I already tried a quick RTV patch fix and
complete cleaning/inspection, which helped some. Next step is to
remove it
and do a "thorough" RTV repair.
>
> Question: Why do I have a "Chip" light with the engine shut off,
but it
goes out after start and warm up and RPM above about 1200? It
"appears"
that increased oil pressure, which seems to make the light go out,
is
involved with this problem and not worn rubber insulation. Anybody
have any
experience with this?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267739#267739
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics==================
======<; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_p; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
================
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Looking for Yak flight training |
Thanks, Doc!
We don't have any -52's for training. Roger Baker is a great guy,
knows the Yak very well (though he won't do inverted flat spins
anymore...imagine that), his email is f4ffm2@adelphia.net He's
located in San Diego.
For NoCal, I'd give Kregg Victory (occasional poster here and prime
time mechanic) a call as he's pretty well connected up there.
Barry
On Oct 13, 2009, at 12:59 AM, Yak-List Digest Server wrote:
> Bdogg,
>
> This should be up your alley.
>
> doc
>
>
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
> Savarese
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 7:22 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Looking for Yak flight training
>
>
> I received the email below. If anyone can help this gentleman,
> please reply
> directly to him. His email is captlarryv@aol.com
>
> Dennis
Message 13
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G'day to all,
can anyone tell me what are the characteristics of the original russian battery.
Mine has been exhausted yesterday because I've forgot to turn off the cockpit
light and now I have to charge the battery but I don't know what s the capacity
and type.
Sorry if this subject has already been discussed.
Thanks and kind regards
Didier HA-JAC in Paris France
--------
Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267792#267792
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Subject: | ultrasonic leak detectors |
I have used this type of tester extensively. That said, I'll throw this
out for what it is worth. These types of leak detectors were designed
for leaks where air is going OUT and not leaks where air is going IN. I
know this will probably open up a real can of worms, but my experience
has been that the sound is actually made by a high pressure source going
to a low(er) pressure and the noise itself is on the downside of that
event. Meaning that the ultrasonics made by air going IN to a vacuum
will be better heard INSIDE where the vacuum actually IS. Hard to
listen for there!
On the other hand, pressure leaking OUT has the sound OUTSIDE where the
ultrasonic mike USUALLY is easy to use.
I am not saying that the Ultrasonic leak detector will not pick up these
sounds. Only that they will be much weaker than normal and very hard to
hear.
If the vacuum leak is happening with a gasoline motor, a much easier
method is to use some sort of pressurized flammable gas in a can....
Such as starting fluid. I am not recommending starting fluid... I am
merely saying some people use it. Others use WD-40! No ... really! All
manner of different gases are used. ANYWAY.. You spray them around
where the engine is running where there might be a vacuum leak and
listen closely to what the engine then sounds like. It works.
Good luck.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
M.D.
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 19:40
Subject: RE: Yak-List: ultrasonic leak detectors
--> <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Check with Dennis Savarese. He uses one on occasion.
Doc Kemp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rich Langer
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 3:45 PM
Subject: Yak-List: ultrasonic leak detectors
Does anyone on the list use an ultrasonic leak detector for finding
vacuum leaks and, if so, do you recommend a certain brand or model? I
have a small leak I can not find . Thanks
Rich
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: YAK 18T Battery |
By the way, shall we fill the small cells (two blocks of ten cells) with non mineral
water like in the old time???
Or acid????
Thanks
Didier
--------
Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267811#267811
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Subject: | Re: YAK 18T Battery |
This is not the answer you are looking for. Possibly Dennis, or Doug
knows. Servicing instructions are surely in the maint. card deck.
Sadly they are no where close to me at the moment. I am not even sure
they are lead-acid batteries. Something floating around in memory says
they might even be nickel-cadmium types!
Anyway:
What I am going to offer Didier is that most people .... No. ALL people
that I know have taken those batteries OUT, and have replaced them with
GELL CELL types. I have even done that on my UTVA-66. The aircraft
charging voltage is not quite perfect I will admit, but they last a long
long time and work extremely well. They also don't require any
servicing. Typically two 12 VDC batteries are used in series with some
kind of custom made case adapter to get them to fit right in existing
spaces. B&C sells them for the YAK and Sukhoi 50, SU-26,29,31 types...
But those are extremely small and light weight, (and very low
capacity)...... Designed for aerobatics I might add where every extra
pound is avoided! I use two very LARGE ones on the UTVA-66 (electric
starter). You can pretty much design any capacity you want to have,
limited only by "space" in the aircraft.
Lastly, take a real hard look at this:
http://www.batteryminders.com/batterycharger/catalog/BatteryMINDer-Aviat
ion-Specific-Gill-LT-Series-24-Volt-4A--p-16169.html
Made by BatteryMinder, and I have nothing to do with these people and
rarely recommend any product. That said, this thing is the cat's ass.
It works. It works well. And at New Bern, there are over 25 of them
running all the time, they're EVERYWHERE, and every single owner loves
them to death.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tigeryak18t
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 15:02
Subject: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery
--> <didier.blouzard@gmail.com>
By the way, shall we fill the small cells (two blocks of ten cells) with
non mineral water like in the old time???
Or acid????
Thanks
Didier
--------
Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267811#267811
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: YAK 18T Battery |
Didier,
The more I think about it, the more I am starting to think that what you
might indeed have here is a multi-cell ni-cad battery. What makes me
think that is the comment about the "two blocks of 10 cells". That
would mean that you have a 24 volt battery with 20 cells. Divide 24 by
20 and you get 1.2 That is the EXACT typical voltage for a single
NI-CAD cell. Nickel-cadmium batteries have a cadmium anode, nickel
oxyhydroxide cathode, and an electrolyte of an aqueous solution of
potassium hydroxide. They run slightly less voltage per cell than do
lead-acid type batteries.
Please be certain of what you are dealing with, and what exact kind of
battery you have before servicing or charging it. Certain very violent
and dangerous reactions can occur if any battery is serviced with the
wrong fluids, or charged in the wrong fashion, and this is most
certainly true with ni-cads. With a NI-CAD, you MUST have certain
current limitations when charging, or it can go into a thermal run-a-way
and blow up. As in KA-BOOM. Also once they start a thermal run-a-way,
you simply can not stop them by removing charging current. It's a
really bad thing. A really REALLY bad thing.
So until some one who really knows answers this question, and I simply
do not know for sure myself... Please be careful OK?
Best Regards,
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich,
Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 15:25
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery
--> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
This is not the answer you are looking for. Possibly Dennis, or Doug
knows. Servicing instructions are surely in the maint. card deck.
Sadly they are no where close to me at the moment. I am not even sure
they are lead-acid batteries. Something floating around in memory says
they might even be nickel-cadmium types!
Anyway:
What I am going to offer Didier is that most people .... No. ALL people
that I know have taken those batteries OUT, and have replaced them with
GELL CELL types. I have even done that on my UTVA-66. The aircraft
charging voltage is not quite perfect I will admit, but they last a long
long time and work extremely well. They also don't require any
servicing. Typically two 12 VDC batteries are used in series with some
kind of custom made case adapter to get them to fit right in existing
spaces. B&C sells them for the YAK and Sukhoi 50, SU-26,29,31 types...
But those are extremely small and light weight, (and very low
capacity)...... Designed for aerobatics I might add where every extra
pound is avoided! I use two very LARGE ones on the UTVA-66 (electric
starter). You can pretty much design any capacity you want to have,
limited only by "space" in the aircraft.
Lastly, take a real hard look at this:
http://www.batteryminders.com/batterycharger/catalog/BatteryMINDer-Aviat
ion-Specific-Gill-LT-Series-24-Volt-4A--p-16169.html
Made by BatteryMinder, and I have nothing to do with these people and
rarely recommend any product. That said, this thing is the cat's ass.
It works. It works well. And at New Bern, there are over 25 of them
running all the time, they're EVERYWHERE, and every single owner loves
them to death.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tigeryak18t
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 15:02
Subject: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery
--> <didier.blouzard@gmail.com>
By the way, shall we fill the small cells (two blocks of ten cells) with
non mineral water like in the old time???
Or acid????
Thanks
Didier
--------
Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267811#267811
Message 18
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Having done a number of CO studies on the 52 and the 50, Doug is correct.
Just sealing the exhaust gaps will not stop CO getting into the cockpit. The
52 however does have a positive pressure airflow via the trumpet receiving
fresh air from the nose of the aircraft. That is not enough to stop CO from
getting into the cockpit. Although the 52 does on average have less CO in
the cockpit than the 50. I have a different theory on why that is. It has to
do with the open hole that the tail wheel strut extends out of in the tail.
With airflow over the canopy, the pressure in the cockpit is decreased. That
creates a decrease in pressure in the aft fuselage sucking CO into the
aircraft. The CO also leaches into the cockpit through leaks in fairings
along with holes in the gear wells of the 50. This all driven by the lower
pressure inside the cockpit.
The CO is highest during engine start, run-up, high alpha maneuvers
in-flight, on landing, and during run-up to scavenge the sump. On average I
see levels as high as 50 ppm for the 52 and as high as 110 ppm in the 52.
After a while, I gave up on trying to block all of the CO out of the
aircraft and opted for a fresh air source that was 100% free of CO. That was
accomplished with using a scuba system and by using my MBU-12 aviators mask.
I only use the system for taxi, take off, landing and run-up for shut down.
Basically, I feel better after 2 or 3 sorties than I did before I went to
this system.
I have not tested the CJ with or without the NACA duct installed to vent air
into the cockpit.
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Halverson
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Smoke Systems
Good point - sealing exhaust gaps did not work in my 55 either ...
+-----Original Message-----
+From: doug sapp [mailto:dougsappllc@gmail.com]
+Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 06:15 AM
+To: yak-list@matronics.com
+Subject: Re: Yak-List: Smoke Systems
+
+Reade,More gain will come from pressurizing the cockpit with fresh ram air
+than trying to seal the cockpit against smoke entering it. Once you equal
+or exceed the pressure outside when compared the the pressure inside the
+smoke will become a non issue.
+
+Doug
+
+On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 7:43 PM, Genzlinger, Reade
<ReadeG@cairnwood.com>wrote:
+
<ReadeG@Cairnwood.com>
+>
+> Anyone have the Termikas fabricated smoke system installed? I am flying
+> a 52TD with their system and it works quite well. I have no
+> documentation, however (capacity - which I have figured pretty close,
+> type of pump, pressures, etc.). Any information would be greatly
+> appreciated.
+>
+> BTW - it is plumbed into both stacks and makes lots of smoke - a good
+> portion of which ends up in the cockpit. I am gap sealing everything
+> imaginable!
+>
+> Reade Genzlinger
+> Cairnwood Cooperative Corporation
+> mailto:readeg@cairnwood.com
+> 215.914.0370
+>
+>
+>
+>
+>
+>
+
+
+--
+Douglas Sapp
+Doug Sapp LLC
+18B Riverview Road
+Omak WA 98841
+PH 509-826-4610
+Fax 509-826-3644
+
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Anyone interested in a J9G1 CJ6 propeller. 18.7 hrs S/O by certified shop. Please
contact off list wlannon@persona.ca.
Walt
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Subject: | Re: YAK 18T Battery |
Hum hum
The good thing is that nothing wrong happened up to today. I did a
charge of the battery on 24v and about 3 to7 amps for about 3 hours
ans listening to the bubbles I removed it.
Thanks to your warnings Mark
I agree with you Mark about the NiCad voltage. Now I will wait to know
more if anyone knows about it.
Richard or Dennis if you have any info even just the type it's fine.
Thanks a lot Mark, you saved my baterry (I hope) and perhaps more.
Kind regards
Didier Blouzard
06 24 24 36 72
Le 14 oct. 2009 01:53, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> a crit :
>
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Subject: | Re: YAK 18T Battery |
Didier,=C2- If you are on an airport or near one where there are corpera
te Jets or Turbo Prop Acft. contact their maintenance people, those airpla
nes all use Nicad batteries. Their mainrenance people will have the expert
ise and equipment to maintain Nicad batteries. They will probably be able
to identify type of battery=C2-you have.=C2-
Gary=C2- in Las Vegas
-----Original Message-----
From: Didier.blouzard <didier.blouzard@gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Oct 13, 2009 11:08 pm
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery
om>=C2-
=C2-
Hum hum=C2-
The good thing is that nothing wrong happened up to today. I did a charge
of the battery on 24v and about 3 to7 amps for about 3 hours ans listenin
g to the bubbles I removed it.=C2-
=C2-
Thanks to your warnings Mark=C2-
=C2-
I agree with you Mark about the NiCad voltage. Now I will wait to know mor
e if anyone knows about it.=C2-
=C2-
Richard or Dennis if you have any info even just the type it's fine.=C2-
=C2-
Thanks a lot Mark, you saved my baterry (I hope) and perhaps more.=C2-
=C2-
Kind regards=C2-
=C2-
Didier Blouzard=C2-
06 24 24 36 72=C2-
=C2-
Le 14 oct. 2009 =C3- 01:53, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MA
LS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> a =C3=A9crit :=C2-
=C2-
>=C2-
=C2-
========================
====3
D=========C2-
========================
=============C2-
========================
=============C2-
========================
=============C2-
=C2-
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: YAK 18T Battery |
Didier,
This is what I have in my 18T,
2 x YUASA NP17-12, sealed Lead-Acid battery, 12V 17Ah
Dim 75x181x167 mm
Price is 68 each (Radispares order code: 200-6505)
The charger I use is,
1 x Mascot 9740, 24V/5A charger
Price is 198 (Radiospares order code: 366-3856)
Phone number to Radiospares in France is:0825 034 034
Cheers
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier.blouzard
Sent: 14 October 2009 08:09
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery
Hum hum
The good thing is that nothing wrong happened up to today. I did a
charge of the battery on 24v and about 3 to7 amps for about 3 hours
ans listening to the bubbles I removed it.
Thanks to your warnings Mark
I agree with you Mark about the NiCad voltage. Now I will wait to know
more if anyone knows about it.
Richard or Dennis if you have any info even just the type it's fine.
Thanks a lot Mark, you saved my baterry (I hope) and perhaps more.
Kind regards
Didier Blouzard
06 24 24 36 72
Le 14 oct. 2009 01:53, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> a crit :
>
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