Yak-List Digest Archive

Wed 10/14/09


Total Messages Posted: 19



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:50 AM - Batteries. (Richard Goode)
     2. 01:56 AM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Didier.blouzard)
     3. 01:56 AM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Didier.blouzard)
     4. 05:11 AM - Re: ultrasonic leak detectors (Rich Langer)
     5. 05:40 AM - Re: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors (Didier.blouzard)
     6. 05:56 AM - Re: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors (A. Dennis Savarese)
     7. 06:44 AM - Re: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors (A. Dennis Savarese)
     8. 06:57 AM - Re: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors (A. Dennis Savarese)
     9. 08:45 AM - Re: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
    10. 08:45 AM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
    11. 08:46 AM - Re: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors (Don Milbourn)
    12. 09:16 AM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
    13. 10:44 AM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (Warren Hill)
    14. 02:18 PM - Re: YAK 18T Battery (Rob Rowe)
    15. 04:07 PM - Re: YAK 18T Battery (tigeryak18t)
    16. 04:56 PM - Re: Re: YAK 18T Battery (A. Dennis Savarese)
    17. 06:52 PM - How to charge a 12 volt 7.5ah Werker Battery? (Javier Carrasco)
    18. 07:21 PM - Re: How to charge a 12 volt 7.5ah Werker Battery? (Scott Poehlmann)
    19. 08:11 PM - Re: How to charge a 12 volt 7.5ah Werker Battery? (Javier Carrasco)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:50:04 AM PST US
    From: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
    Subject: Batteries.
    As Michael says,it is so much better to change to a simple;small sealed motorcycycle type battery. It will provide all the current that is needed;is far lighter;no problem to charge;won't leak,and will fit into the original box!! Richard Richard Goode Aerobatics Rhodds Farm Lyonshall Hereford HR5 3LW United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120 Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129 www.russianaeros.com


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:56:38 AM PST US
    From: "Didier.blouzard" <didier.blouzard@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: YAK 18T Battery
    Gary This is a good advice I'll follow to try to save my battery. Thx a lot Didier Blouzard 06 24 24 36 72 Le 14 oct. 2009 =C3- 08:31, nc69666@aol.com a =C3=A9crit : > Didier, If you are on an airport or near one where there are > corperate Jets or Turbo Prop Acft. contact their maintenance people, > those airplanes all use Nicad batteries. Their mainrenance people > will have the expertise and equipment to maintain Nicad batteries. > They will probably be able to identify type of battery you have. > > Gary in Las Vegas > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Didier.blouzard <didier.blouzard@gmail.com> > To: yak-list@matronics.com <yak-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Tue, Oct 13, 2009 11:08 pm > Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery > <didier.blouzard@gmail.com > > > > Hum hum > The good thing is that nothing wrong happened up to today. I did a > charge of the battery on 24v and about 3 to7 amps for about 3 hours > ans listening to the bubbles I removed it. > > Thanks to your warnings Mark > > I agree with you Mark about the NiCad voltage. Now I will wait to > know more if anyone knows about it. > > Richard or Dennis if you have any info even just the type it's fine. > > Thanks a lot Mark, you saved my baterry (I hope) and perhaps more. > & nbsp; > Kind regards > > Didier Blouzard > 06 24 24 36 72 > > Le 14 oct. 2009 =C3- 01:53, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, M > ALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> a =C3=A9crit : > > > > > ======================== =========== > t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List > ======================== =========== > ://forums.matronics.com > ======================== =========== > --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ======================== =========== > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 01:56:55 AM PST US
    From: "Didier.blouzard" <didier.blouzard@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: YAK 18T Battery
    Michael Thanks so much. Your help is precious. I'll order the batteries asap to radiospares. Thanks and fly safe. Btw we are waiting for you in Paris when you want.... See you probably next summer in Cannes. Regards Didier Blouzard 06 24 24 36 72 Le 14 oct. 2009 08:50, "Michael Wikstrom" <michael@wikstrom.cc> a crit : > > > > Didier, > > This is what I have in my 18T, > 2 x YUASA NP17-12, sealed Lead-Acid battery, 12V 17Ah > Dim 75x181x167 mm > Price is 68 each (Radispares order code: 200-6505) > > The charger I use is, > 1 x Mascot 9740, 24V/5A charger > Price is 198 (Radiospares order code: 366-3856) > Phone number to Radiospares in France is:0825 034 034 > > Cheers > Michael > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier.blouzard > Sent: 14 October 2009 08:09 > To: yak-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery > > > > > Hum hum > The good thing is that nothing wrong happened up to today. I did a > charge of the battery on 24v and about 3 to7 amps for about 3 hours > ans listening to the bubbles I removed it. > > Thanks to your warnings Mark > > I agree with you Mark about the NiCad voltage. Now I will wait to know > more if anyone knows about it. > > Richard or Dennis if you have any info even just the type it's fine. > > Thanks a lot Mark, you saved my baterry (I hope) and perhaps more. > > Kind regards > > Didier Blouzard > 06 24 24 36 72 > > Le 14 oct. 2009 01:53, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, > MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> a crit : > >> > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:11:30 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors
    From: "Rich Langer" <rlanger2@comcast.net>
    Mark: Sorry, I should have said air leaks, where the air is leaking out of a B nut, not vacuum leaks. From your reply these ultrasonic detectors should work for finding air in the pressurized lines leaking out because of corrosion or a fitting coming loose. After I shut down and close the main air valve, air leaks out and within 5-6 hours all of the pressure in the lines is gone. Rich Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267891#267891


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:40:58 AM PST US
    From: "Didier.blouzard" <didier.blouzard@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors
    Rich Where can we find these ultrasonic detectors. I may have a leak in my emergency system. Thx Didier Didier Blouzard 06 24 24 36 72 Le 14 oct. 2009 14:08, "Rich Langer" <rlanger2@comcast.net> a crit : > > Mark: > > Sorry, I should have said air leaks, where the air is leaking out of > a B nut, not vacuum leaks. From your reply these ultrasonic > detectors should work for finding air in the pressurized lines > leaking out because of corrosion or a fitting coming loose. > After I shut down and close the main air valve, air leaks out and > within 5-6 hours all of the pressure in the lines is gone. > > > > > > Rich > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267891#267891 > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 05:56:29 AM PST US
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors
    Rich, What you may have is a cracked flare on the tubing inside the B nut or a crack in the tubing inside the sleeve just under the flare. Not uncommon. You may want to remove that section of tubing and fabricate a new line. Since the Chinese flares are all M12, you can fabricate a new line as follows. Remove the old line and cut the tube to remove the B nuts. Set them aside as they will be reused. Using 1/4" 5052 aluminum tubing, cut a length of tubing equivalent to the old tubing just removed. Allow enough length for any bends in the tubing. Place one metric M12 B nut and an AN819-4 sleeve (you may have to ream out the hole in the nut to allow the nut to fit over the sleeve) on one end of the new tubing and flare it. Repeat this procedure for the other end. Pre-bend the tubing as best you can to fit it to the airplane. Some bending may have to be done with one end attached (not torqued tight) on the airplane. Install the new line in the a/c. Be careful not to over-torque the B nuts as you may crack the new flare on the tubing. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: Rich Langer To: yak-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 7:08 AM Subject: Yak-List: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors Mark: Sorry, I should have said air leaks, where the air is leaking out of a B nut, not vacuum leaks. From your reply these ultrasonic detectors should work for finding air in the pressurized lines leaking out because of corrosion or a fitting coming loose. After I shut down and close the main air valve, air leaks out and within 5-6 hours all of the pressure in the lines is gone. Rich Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267891#267891


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:44:29 AM PST US
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors
    Try soapy water in a spray bottle first. I have an ultrasonic leak detector and have found it does not always find the small leaks. I've even replaced it and still have the same issues. I've had just as much luck with soapy water in a spray bottle. If your emergency system is leaking, the first place to look is at the rubber O-ring under the 22 mm nut on the air bottle. A very common problem particularly if the tank was recently removed from the airplane and the fittings removed from the tank for inspection or servicing. The next place to look is the emergency air valve. Remove the output line from the emergency air valve with the valve completely closed. Spray soapy water on the output fitting on the valve. If it bubbles, the valve is leaking internally. The next place to check is the line going to the instrument. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: Didier.blouzard To: yak-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 7:25 AM Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors <didier.blouzard@gmail.com> Rich Where can we find these ultrasonic detectors. I may have a leak in my emergency system. Thx Didier Didier Blouzard 06 24 24 36 72 Le 14 oct. 2009 =C3 14:08, "Rich Langer" <rlanger2@comcast.net> a =C3=A9crit : > > Mark: > > Sorry, I should have said air leaks, where the air is leaking out of > a B nut, not vacuum leaks. From your reply these ultrasonic > detectors should work for finding air in the pressurized lines > leaking out because of corrosion or a fitting coming loose. > After I shut down and close the main air valve, air leaks out and > within 5-6 hours all of the pressure in the lines is gone. > > > > > > Rich > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267891#267891 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:57:05 AM PST US
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors
    One other thing that does occur is the main air valves will leak internally because of internal corrosion. If you remove the output fitting from the air valve and spray soapy water on the open fitting on the valve, (not the B-nut) see if it bubbles. If it does, remove the valve and send it to Doug for overhaul. He's the man when it comes to repairing this stuff. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: Rich Langer To: yak-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 7:08 AM Subject: Yak-List: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors Mark: Sorry, I should have said air leaks, where the air is leaking out of a B nut, not vacuum leaks. From your reply these ultrasonic detectors should work for finding air in the pressurized lines leaking out because of corrosion or a fitting coming loose. After I shut down and close the main air valve, air leaks out and within 5-6 hours all of the pressure in the lines is gone. Rich Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267891#267891


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:45:05 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors
    From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
    OH! Well then please disregard! :-) Yes. It will work for leaks like that. Take care. Mark -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rich Langer Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 5:08 Subject: Yak-List: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors Mark: Sorry, I should have said air leaks, where the air is leaking out of a B nut, not vacuum leaks. From your reply these ultrasonic detectors should work for finding air in the pressurized lines leaking out because of corrosion or a fitting coming loose. After I shut down and close the main air valve, air leaks out and within 5-6 hours all of the pressure in the lines is gone. Rich Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267891#267891


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:45:05 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: YAK 18T Battery
    From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
    "2 x YUASA NP17-12, sealed Lead-Acid battery, 12V 17Ah" Good choice. Mark Bitterlich -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wikstrom Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 23:51 Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery Didier, This is what I have in my 18T, 2 x YUASA NP17-12, sealed Lead-Acid battery, 12V 17Ah Dim 75x181x167 mm Price is 68 each (Radispares order code: 200-6505) The charger I use is, 1 x Mascot 9740, 24V/5A charger Price is 198 (Radiospares order code: 366-3856) Phone number to Radiospares in France is:0825 034 034 Cheers Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier.blouzard Sent: 14 October 2009 08:09 Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery --> <didier.blouzard@gmail.com> Hum hum The good thing is that nothing wrong happened up to today. I did a charge of the battery on 24v and about 3 to7 amps for about 3 hours ans listening to the bubbles I removed it. Thanks to your warnings Mark I agree with you Mark about the NiCad voltage. Now I will wait to know more if anyone knows about it. Richard or Dennis if you have any info even just the type it's fine. Thanks a lot Mark, you saved my baterry (I hope) and perhaps more. Kind regards Didier Blouzard 06 24 24 36 72 Le 14 oct. 2009 01:53, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> a crit : >


    Message 11


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    Time: 08:46:18 AM PST US
    From: "Don Milbourn" <valleyauto@clearwire.net>
    Subject: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors
    This is what I use to find a air leak in my system and it works great. I put some CRC brakleen brake parts cleaner non-flammable part #05089 in the charge hose then charge the system and I use a Snap On refrigerant leak detector Part #ACT750A go over the system and you will find your leak. Hope this works for you. Don ----- Original Message ----- From: A. Dennis Savarese To: yak-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 7:01 AM Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors Try soapy water in a spray bottle first. I have an ultrasonic leak detector and have found it does not always find the small leaks. I've even replaced it and still have the same issues. I've had just as much luck with soapy water in a spray bottle. If your emergency system is leaking, the first place to look is at the rubber O-ring under the 22 mm nut on the air bottle. A very common problem particularly if the tank was recently removed from the airplane and the fittings removed from the tank for inspection or servicing. The next place to look is the emergency air valve. Remove the output line from the emergency air valve with the valve completely closed. Spray soapy water on the output fitting on the valve. If it bubbles, the valve is leaking internally. The next place to check is the line going to the instrument. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: Didier.blouzard To: yak-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 7:25 AM Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: ultrasonic leak detectors <didier.blouzard@gmail.com> Rich Where can we find these ultrasonic detectors. I may have a leak in my emergency system. Thx Didier Didier Blouzard 06 24 24 36 72 Le 14 oct. 2009 =C3 14:08, "Rich Langer" <rlanger2@comcast.net> a =C3=A9crit : <rlanger2@comcast.net> > > Mark: > > Sorry, I should have said air leaks, where the air is leaking out of > a B nut, not vacuum leaks. From your reply these ultrasonic > detectors should work for finding air in the pressurized lines > leaking out because of corrosion or a fitting coming loose. > After I shut down and close the main air valve, air leaks out and > within 5-6 hours all of the pressure in the lines is gone. > > > > > > Rich > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267891#267891 > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics================== ======<; via the Web href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com _p; generous bsp; href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ================


    Message 12


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    Time: 09:16:24 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: YAK 18T Battery
    From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
    The LONG answer. Didier, I want to repeat that I am not sure what the original battery is. I only saw one once in my life as it was being removed to replace it with a sealed lead acid type. I looked at it briefly and was startled because it looked exactly like the Ni-Cads I used to work with on the A-6 model aircraft back in the day. Same exact type of construction. I said to myself: "DARN, THAT LOOKS LIKE A NI-CAD!" and went no further than that. So you can see that my analysis is based on anything BUT an accurate study! BUT....Based on the number of cells you mentioned, I think it is more than possible, and maybe even LIKELY. I just don't know for sure. My caution about charging: I do not want to imply that if you put on the wrong type of charger on a NI-CAD that it will immediately go into thermal run-a-way and explode in your face. The smaller the battery, the easier it is for this to happen with an unregulated charger. In your case you have a pretty big battery, so this kind of thing is not going to happen as in "POOF" .... BANG! It will take TIME. The way it works is like this. As you charge a ni-cad it starts to get warm. As it warms up, the internal resistance goes down. As the internal resistance goes down, more current flows from the charger, so the battery warms up some more, and the resistance goes down some more, drawing more current, and it gets warmer still... And so forth and so on, until suddenly it starts getting hot much faster, the current gets MUCH higher, and things suddenly start happening VERY quickly followed by a very powerful explosion where everything flies all over the place. The number one thing to watch for is heat, and the use of an regulated charger. Off the record... As in, I can't officially sanction something like this, but there are ways that are much better than standing around listening for bubbles and breathing noxious fumes. A simple ... Extremely simple....current limiter can be made out of a plain old light bulb. In this case, a 28 VDC light bulb... And if those are not available, two 12 volt bulbs in series. Lightbulbs are rated in watts. You need to recompute this to amps. So, I=P/E where I equals current, P equals watts, and E equals voltage. So for a 50 watt bulb, you would draw roughly 2 amps. (50/24= well...not being perfectly exact here ok... Just "close enough"). If you connect a 50 watt bulb in SERIES (emphasis on "series" here ok?) with one of the wires going to the battery from the charger, you will limit the charging current to about 2 amps. PERIOD. It can NOT draw more than that. Now you have taken a regular old battery charger and have converted it into a current LIMITED battery charger, which is what you need for a NI-CAD battery. If the battery internal resistance goes down, the charger current can NOT go up (beyond 2 amps in this particular case using a 50 watt bulb). As the battery gets close to full charge, the bulb will get dimmer and dimmer. Every Ni-Cad has a recommended charging voltage and a MAXIMUM charging current. The charging voltage is important to the overall life of the battery, but the charging CURRENT is a matter of safety and your immediately health! I would also have an infra-red temp sensor handy. These items are just a MUST have for anyone with a radial engine anyway. It will find a missing cylinder so fast you would not believe it. There are other good methods too, but the infra-red temp sensor is in my opinion the best. It also will allow you to keep a close eye on the battery temperature, which if you see starting to rise quickly will allow you to disconnect EVERYTHING in time. A good battery shop has a temp sensor on every battery being charged.... Always. Personally, I would not have one of those things in my airplane (Ni-Cad main bettery). But that's just me. Mark -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier.blouzard Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 23:09 Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery --> <didier.blouzard@gmail.com> Hum hum The good thing is that nothing wrong happened up to today. I did a charge of the battery on 24v and about 3 to7 amps for about 3 hours ans listening to the bubbles I removed it. Thanks to your warnings Mark I agree with you Mark about the NiCad voltage. Now I will wait to know more if anyone knows about it. Richard or Dennis if you have any info even just the type it's fine. Thanks a lot Mark, you saved my baterry (I hope) and perhaps more. Kind regards Didier Blouzard 06 24 24 36 72 Le 14 oct. 2009 01:53, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> a crit : >


    Message 13


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    Time: 10:44:57 AM PST US
    From: Warren Hill <k7wx@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: YAK 18T Battery
    Dider, I'm sure the YAK is different, but for the CJ-6A, four 12-volt gel cell batteries fit perfectly into the original battery box, as though they were made for this application. Two sets of two are connected in parallel and each set of two is then connected on series. This gives twice the voltage at twice the current rating of each individual battery. One added advantage is that this arrangement weighs a little more, which shifts a typically too forward CG slightly aft. Makes the airplane a little easier to fly and land. Warren Hill Mesa, AZ On Oct 13, 2009, at 11:50 PM, Michael Wikstrom wrote: > > > > Didier, > > This is what I have in my 18T, > 2 x YUASA NP17-12, sealed Lead-Acid battery, 12V 17Ah > Dim 75x181x167 mm > Price is 68 each (Radispares order code: 200-6505) > > The charger I use is, > 1 x Mascot 9740, 24V/5A charger > Price is 198 (Radiospares order code: 366-3856) > Phone number to Radiospares in France is:0825 034 034 > > Cheers > Michael > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Didier.blouzard > Sent: 14 October 2009 08:09 > To: yak-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery > > > > > Hum hum > The good thing is that nothing wrong happened up to today. I did a > charge of the battery on 24v and about 3 to7 amps for about 3 hours > ans listening to the bubbles I removed it. > > Thanks to your warnings Mark > > I agree with you Mark about the NiCad voltage. Now I will wait to know > more if anyone knows about it. > > Richard or Dennis if you have any info even just the type it's fine. > > Thanks a lot Mark, you saved my baterry (I hope) and perhaps more. > > Kind regards > > Didier Blouzard > 06 24 24 36 72 > > Le 14 oct. 2009 01:53, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, > MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> a crit : > >> > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:18:43 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: YAK 18T Battery
    From: "Rob Rowe" <yak-list@robrowe.plus.com>
    Didier, The Yuasa NP 17-12 are excellent batteries but be aware that the manufacturer recommends that they are charged at a MAX current of 25% of their AH capacity for approx 4-5 hours to avoid damaging the cells. Therefore at 17AH that's about 4A max ... the Mascot 9740 is a 10A charger, so may be better to go for a lower current version (4A = model 2140?) You may want to consider the NPC 17-12 batteries as well, these are slightly more expensive but may offer a greater lifespan ... they have lasted 8+ years so far in my -52. FWIW - also try shedding as much load as possible when taxiing as if the generator is off-line then the batteries will be taking all the electrical load. When the generator cuts in again the (partially discharged) batteries can get charged at very high rates (10+ amps on a -52) ... note your ammeter reading (x 10) next time and you'll see what I mean. Battery condition is a factor here, as is ambient temperature, but it's surprising what a just few minutes taxiing can take out of them. So I only turn the inverters / strobes / heaters on (the big current users) just before starting the power checks prior to departure and turn them off again on exiting the runway after landing - as I operate from a grass strip this also saves wear & tear on the gyros being bounced around on the ground. Cheers, Rob R G-YAKX Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267965#267965


    Message 15


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    Time: 04:07:22 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: YAK 18T Battery
    From: "tigeryak18t" <didier.blouzard@gmail.com>
    Hello to all, and thank you very much for all your kind comments and help. First of all, here is the full story. Now I know how my battery was discharged. I forgot the taxi light on after a test of all the possible light, but I turned off the main battery at the end of my test. This turns off everything BUT NOT the cockpit light. They stay on even if you turn the main bat OFF. So it discharged the battery in about 24hours. The day after, with no more battery, I tried to start the motor...no way. a faint click and air but no actuation of the electrovalve. So nothing happened. I even tried some foolish hand starting (I do it on Cessna) but thanks god I did not turn on the magnetos and the motor could not start. I read the hand start messages well after that and realized how it was stupid and dangerous. So I do confirm that it is a NiCad battery. I charged it with an electronic charger, so I could see the current of charge. It was about 2amps. For such a big battery that's also the reason why it did not heat and probably was charged a little. Enough to be put back in its place in the wing and make another test. If it doesn't work then (and even if its working...) I will have these Yuasa batteries and put them back. Thank you very much again to all and particularly to Mark who explained things very clearly and took a lot of time to understand the problem. I hope sharing this small experience and mistakes will help others not to do the same. kind regards from Paris Didier HA-JAC -------- Didier Tiger YAK18T Member of Commemorative Air Force French Wing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267976#267976


    Message 16


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    Time: 04:56:39 PM PST US
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: YAK 18T Battery
    The reason why some of the air start valves, like on the Yak 52, have the small tab on the side of it is just for situations like yours. If the battery is dead the air start valve can not be engaged. The tab on the side of the valve solves the problem. Pushing up on the tab (on the 52 this is done with the side of the sole of the shoe), engages the air start valve and starts the rotation. Once the rotation starts, the mags can be switched on. I'm not sure the 18T has this tab on the side and also where it would be reachable to engage the valve. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: tigeryak18t To: yak-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 6:04 PM Subject: Yak-List: Re: YAK 18T Battery <didier.blouzard@gmail.com> Hello to all, and thank you very much for all your kind comments and help. First of all, here is the full story. Now I know how my battery was discharged. I forgot the taxi light on after a test of all the possible light, but I turned off the main battery at the end of my test. This turns off everything BUT NOT the cockpit light. They stay on even if you turn the main bat OFF. So it discharged the battery in about 24hours. The day after, with no more battery, I tried to start the motor...no way. a faint click and air but no actuation of the electrovalve. So nothing happened. I even tried some foolish hand starting (I do it on Cessna) but thanks god I did not turn on the magnetos and the motor could not start. I read the hand start messages well after that and realized how it was stupid and dangerous. So I do confirm that it is a NiCad battery. I charged it with an electronic charger, so I could see the current of charge. It was about 2amps. For such a big battery that's also the reason why it did not heat and probably was charged a little. Enough to be put back in its place in the wing and make another test. If it doesn't work then (and even if its working...) I will have these Yuasa batteries and put them back. Thank you very much again to all and particularly to Mark who explained things very clearly and took a lot of time to understand the problem. I hope sharing this small experience and mistakes will help others not to do the same. kind regards from Paris Didier HA-JAC -------- Didier Tiger YAK18T Member of Commemorative Air Force French Wing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267976#267976


    Message 17


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    Time: 06:52:17 PM PST US
    From: Javier Carrasco <javiercarrascob@yahoo.com>
    Subject: How to charge a 12 volt 7.5ah Werker Battery?
    Hello fellow Yakers! Hey, during my last annual my batteries didn't get charged, how do I recharge them? Javier Carrasco N05245H


    Message 18


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    Time: 07:21:56 PM PST US
    From: Scott Poehlmann <scott-p@texas.net>
    Subject: Re: How to charge a 12 volt 7.5ah Werker Battery?
    Go to BatteriesPlus (or their web site) and buy new ones. They are like $30 a piece. That is what I do every year as part of my annual. Scott Javier Carrasco wrote: > Hello fellow Yakers! > > Hey, during my last annual my batteries didn't get charged, how do I > recharge them? > > Javier Carrasco > N05245H > > > * > > > *


    Message 19


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    Time: 08:11:10 PM PST US
    From: Javier Carrasco <javiercarrascob@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: How to charge a 12 volt 7.5ah Werker Battery?
    Thank Scott, I just came to the same conclusion. JC --- On Wed, 10/14/09, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p@texas.net> wrote: From: Scott Poehlmann <scott-p@texas.net> Subject: Re: Yak-List: How to charge a 12 volt 7.5ah Werker Battery? Go to BatteriesPlus (or their web site) and buy new ones. They are like $30 a piece. That is what I do every year as part of my annual. Scott Javier Carrasco wrote: > Hello fellow Yakers! > > Hey, during my last annual my batteries didn't get charged, how do I > recharge them? > > Javier Carrasco > N05245H > > > * > > > * le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A




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