Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:30 AM - Re: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg (A. Dennis Savarese)
2. 04:39 AM - Re: questions and opinions (A. Dennis Savarese)
3. 04:43 AM - Re: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg (A. Dennis Savarese)
4. 10:05 AM - Re: questions and opinions (Herb Coussons)
5. 12:48 PM - Re: questions and opinions (Eric Wobschall)
6. 01:53 PM - Re: questions and opinions (Dale)
7. 10:43 PM - Re: questions and opinions (Hal Morley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg |
Always make sure when you set the blade angles that you do it on the
same side. ie: set one blade angle then rotate the prop 180 degrees to
set the second blade angle. Personally I always set them on the left
side as you face the prop. You should also check to see of the blade
shanks have a scribe or whisker mark on them which are aligned with the
center mark on the sleeve under the counter weights. Using the scribed
mark on the blades, the standard Russian blade was aligned to the center
mark on the sleeve to set the blade angles the same.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: cjpilot710@aol.com
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg
I believe the prop has to be set at a known angle. Like at the flat
pitch stop. The angle is measured at the one meter point from the
center of the hub and on the back or flat side of the blade. The angle
of the set, allows the blade to operate efficiently over the range of
RPM. Of course the both blades need to be the same angle. The governor
controls the RPM but does not pay attention to whatever the pitch is.
The pitch is what it is, depending on RPM setting and MP. I think.
:>}
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
-----Original Message-----
From: A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, Mar 22, 2010 7:30 am
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg
If the blade angles are set to spec as provided by the manufacturer,
instead of playing with blade angles, why not simply adjust the prop
governor stop?
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Wise
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 12:12 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg
G'Day All,
Have replaced original prop on our 18T with a GT Propeller.
First impression was the totally different shape than the old V530
First flight onSaturday with new prop produced shorter take off
distance and a surprisingly better climb rate.
Pitch was set to produce 100% at full throttle and on take off roll
at full power went to 103%.
Maybe need a very slight tweak on the angles.
This was with full tanks and 3 big blokes.
Yesterday, Sunday 21st went to fly-in come airshow. 30 min flight
along the coast.
Tailwind there and headwind home but appears to be about 8 to 9
knots faster at the same settings.
Oh, and by the way, much smoother and a lot less vibration.
Very significant improvement during aero display.
1/2 tanks and 2 POB.
Improved climb and aircraft hung in during manoeuvres and rolls far
better than original Russian prop.
We had a height limitation of 1500 ft due to controlled airspace and
hence could not loop, but feel happy that the prop will deliver the
goods at aeros requiring higher power settings.
Attached photo of inverted during roll may demonstrate the attitude
of increased performance in that the nose does not seem to want to drop
away as much as before.
Rolls at 80/80.
I have been looking at replacing the prop for about a year and
looked at Whirlwind, MT and GT propellers.
Have to say that at this stage I am very pleased with the all round
increase in performance.
Cheers and regards,
Chris.
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: questions and opinions |
If one does decide to just remove the handles, I would suggest at the
very least, at each annual condition inspection the handles be
reinstalled and the gear and flap mechanisms in the rear cockpit be
exercised. Without use they will corrode and once corrosion (and rust)
starts, the pneumatic system is destined to fail. I have seen the
pressure spring inside a rear gear selector totally disintegrated from
rust (it is a steel spring) which caused the rear selector to leak.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: cjpilot710@aol.com
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: questions and opinions
-----Original Message-----
From: dabear <Dabear@damned.org>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, Mar 22, 2010 1:26 pm
Subject: Yak-List: questions and opinions
I'm getting ready for my annual, and I've been thinking about how do I
reduce potential points of failure. So I'd like the group's opinion on a
few things.
1. Removing the rear flap and gear selectors. This would remove the
selector from a potential failure/maintenance item. it would also reduce
the number of air lines and connections.
The easiest way is to just removed the handles. Or you could read
the article on how to weld up the back gear valve.
2. Removing the rear magneto switch. Since I don't fly back there, I'm
the only pilot and only GIBs sit back there, why is it needed?
The reason the rear mag was set up the way it was, was because the
instructor sat in the rear and he had override control on both the gear
and flaps, plus the mags. The simplest way to bypass the mags is safety
wire (use .040) the switch to the 1&2 position. That way you don't have
to worry about the instructor's selector toggle switch.
Also, I'm contemplating an oil system upgrade of adding a pre-oiler.
Except hose failure, I can't see much down side. What are people using
in their systems?
Bill Blackwell could give numbers of the stuff he uses. Worth every
penny in an engine's life.
Finally, has anyone installed a linear actuator or other electronic
means of opening and closing the gills and/or oil cooler door?
Stay with the mechanical stuff. If electrons need to move something
it mostly like will brake. My original Chinese gill push/pull cable
broke. I replaced it with nice veneer throttle control ordered to its
required length, from AS&S. Works great.
Bear
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg |
I certainly understand changing the blade angle to achieve 100%. But
when the prop went slightly over 100%, it would have been a whole lot
easier to simply adjust the fine pitch stop on the prop governor then to
adjust the blade angles again. The angle is close enough. I believe
14.5 degrees is the setting.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Wise
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 12:20 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg
G'Day Jim and Dennis,
Some of us have had the old props refurbished and rebalanced here in
Australia.
We fly into some pretty dry areas at times that have been rain starved
for a while.
Hence the blades have got a bit of a bashing.
We have always set the angle 1000mm from centre to the V530 specs
which from memory is 14.8 degrees??? Please do not hold me to that.
The GT specs are the same distance out at between 8 to 10 degrees.
At 9 degrees on run-up % went over 100% and was advised to slightly
increase the blade angle.
We have it at 11 degrees as we are achieving 100% on takeoff roll with
full power.
I most certainly take on board your comments re the job of the
governor and will take this up with our LAME and prop shop.
I always learn good stuff from you guys and am grateful for it.
Cheers,
Chris.
----- Original Message -----
From: cjpilot710@aol.com
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg
I believe the prop has to be set at a known angle. Like at the flat
pitch stop. The angle is measured at the one meter point from the
center of the hub and on the back or flat side of the blade. The angle
of the set, allows the blade to operate efficiently over the range of
RPM. Of course the both blades need to be the same angle. The governor
controls the RPM but does not pay attention to whatever the pitch is.
The pitch is what it is, depending on RPM setting and MP. I think.
:>}
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
-----Original Message-----
From: A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Mon, Mar 22, 2010 7:30 am
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg
If the blade angles are set to spec as provided by the manufacturer,
instead of playing with blade angles, why not simply adjust the prop
governor stop?
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Wise
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 12:12 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Emailing: PF Fly In 021.jpg
G'Day All,
Have replaced original prop on our 18T with a GT Propeller.
First impression was the totally different shape than the old V530
First flight onSaturday with new prop produced shorter take off
distance and a surprisingly better climb rate.
Pitch was set to produce 100% at full throttle and on take off
roll at full power went to 103%.
Maybe need a very slight tweak on the angles.
This was with full tanks and 3 big blokes.
Yesterday, Sunday 21st went to fly-in come airshow. 30 min flight
along the coast.
Tailwind there and headwind home but appears to be about 8 to 9
knots faster at the same settings.
Oh, and by the way, much smoother and a lot less vibration.
Very significant improvement during aero display.
1/2 tanks and 2 POB.
Improved climb and aircraft hung in during manoeuvres and rolls
far better than original Russian prop.
We had a height limitation of 1500 ft due to controlled airspace
and hence could not loop, but feel happy that the prop will deliver the
goods at aeros requiring higher power settings.
Attached photo of inverted during roll may demonstrate the
attitude of increased performance in that the nose does not seem to want
to drop away as much as before.
Rolls at 80/80.
I have been looking at replacing the prop for about a year and
looked at Whirlwind, MT and GT propellers.
Have to say that at this stage I am very pleased with the all
round increase in performance.
Cheers and regards,
Chris.
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Release Date: 02/06/10 19:35:00
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: questions and opinions |
Or some changes like the oil cooler we changed on the TW has now been adopted by
the Romanians in their manufacturing. There are other solutions besides mine,
but clearly it was a problem the way it left the factory.
Green Bay has officially thawed. First spring tune ups and flights yesterday.
CAVU and 50 degrees!!! Both Yaks - oil changed, air systems held all winter -
life is good. The lake is still frozen, but the air isn't.
Herb
On Mar 22, 2010, at 10:51 PM, Eric Wobschall wrote:
>
> My two cents:
>
> I'm not big on all of this re-engineering. These Russians seem to know what they
were doing.
>
> I know there are different philosophies, and I know not everyone likes their
airplane to be stock. However, I think some of you guys have too much mechanical
talent for your own good. The designers of these planes have considered (and
addressed) all of this stuff. Perhaps I'm not experimental enough, but some
of these Rube Goldberg contraptions seem like accidents in the making. If no one
flies from the back, then by all means, take out the rudder pedals, stick,
and all of the instruments as well. Reliability would more likely be improved
by taking the time and money invested in such modifications and just flying more
instead.
>
> I know some people here have done some beautiful work on their planes, and some
of these mods have worked for many hours. However, I wonder if there's a net
gain over the approved methods, and I worry that it's too easy to overlook something
important. Not trying to be a kill-joy here.
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 22, 2010, at 1:26 PM, dabear wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm getting ready for my annual, and I've been thinking about how do I reduce
potential points of failure. So I'd like the group's opinion on a few things.
>>
>> 1. Removing the rear flap and gear selectors. This would remove the selector
from a potential failure/maintenance item. it would also reduce the number
of air lines and connections.
>>
>> 2. Removing the rear magneto switch. Since I don't fly back there, I'm the
only pilot and only GIBs sit back there, why is it needed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, I'm contemplating an oil system upgrade of adding a pre-oiler. Except
hose failure, I can't see much down side. What are people using in their systems?
>>
>>
>> Finally, has anyone installed a linear actuator or other electronic means of
opening and closing the gills and/or oil cooler door?
>>
>>
>> Bear
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: questions and opinions |
Yup... we've emerged in the Buffalo area as well.
Yeah, this is a smart bunch, and I noticed that the Romanians now also
use that cheap electric fuel boost pump as well. I'm sure a lot of
this comes from not knowing what a lot of you know, so I have to be
conservative.
On Mar 23, 2010, at 1:03 PM, Herb Coussons wrote:
>
> Or some changes like the oil cooler we changed on the TW has now
> been adopted by the Romanians in their manufacturing. There are
> other solutions besides mine, but clearly it was a problem the way
> it left the factory.
>
> Green Bay has officially thawed. First spring tune ups and flights
> yesterday. CAVU and 50 degrees!!! Both Yaks - oil changed, air
> systems held all winter - life is good. The lake is still frozen,
> but the air isn't.
>
> Herb
>
>
> On Mar 22, 2010, at 10:51 PM, Eric Wobschall wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> My two cents:
>>
>> I'm not big on all of this re-engineering. These Russians seem to
>> know what they were doing.
>>
>> I know there are different philosophies, and I know not everyone
>> likes their airplane to be stock. However, I think some of you guys
>> have too much mechanical talent for your own good. The designers of
>> these planes have considered (and addressed) all of this stuff.
>> Perhaps I'm not experimental enough, but some of these Rube
>> Goldberg contraptions seem like accidents in the making. If no one
>> flies from the back, then by all means, take out the rudder pedals,
>> stick, and all of the instruments as well. Reliability would more
>> likely be improved by taking the time and money invested in such
>> modifications and just flying more instead.
>>
>> I know some people here have done some beautiful work on their
>> planes, and some of these mods have worked for many hours. However,
>> I wonder if there's a net gain over the approved methods, and I
>> worry that it's too easy to overlook something important. Not
>> trying to be a kill-joy here.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 22, 2010, at 1:26 PM, dabear wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I'm getting ready for my annual, and I've been thinking about how
>>> do I reduce potential points of failure. So I'd like the group's
>>> opinion on a few things.
>>>
>>> 1. Removing the rear flap and gear selectors. This would remove
>>> the selector from a potential failure/maintenance item. it would
>>> also reduce the number of air lines and connections.
>>>
>>> 2. Removing the rear magneto switch. Since I don't fly back
>>> there, I'm the only pilot and only GIBs sit back there, why is it
>>> needed?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Also, I'm contemplating an oil system upgrade of adding a pre-
>>> oiler. Except hose failure, I can't see much down side. What are
>>> people using in their systems?
>>>
>>>
>>> Finally, has anyone installed a linear actuator or other
>>> electronic means of opening and closing the gills and/or oil
>>> cooler door?
>>>
>>>
>>> Bear
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: questions and opinions |
TW oil cooler was a Positec problem in manufacturing not the Russians.
Just ask a Positec engineer. They offered a free replacement for a few years for
the bad coolers. Mine works fine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291477#291477
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: questions and opinions |
Randy,
I concur with the guys who advised leaving the stuff in. I did remove my rear
mag, but that came along with doing a complete rewiring.
I do have a pre-oiler and use it regularly.
I do use actuators for the iris (changed out the gill shutters) and the oil door.
Freed up a lot of panel space and easier to use. Not so easy to install and
wire. If I was doing it over I would probably leave the original equipment
in and shift to the modern cables (I have replaced all the old copper tube runs
with the new cables).
I also have an aux electric fuel pump.
Hal
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