Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:56 PM - Re: Air start valve rebuild (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
2. 02:44 PM - Re: Air start valve rebuild (doug sapp)
3. 03:40 PM - Re: Air start valve rebuild (Didier Blouzard)
4. 08:52 PM - Red Bull Splash and Dash (Roger Kemp M.D.)
5. 09:19 PM - Re: Red Bull Splash and Dash (keithmckinley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Air start valve rebuild |
It's the same exact valve. And that fact seems to be a well kept
secret. See Doug, he has them. A smart person would order two.
Mark
P.s. Two on mine have failed in 10 years. In both cases it was the
solenoid that failed. Get's weak.. Cleaning the valve and making it
easier for the pin to operate helps. Eventually though it just gets too
weak to work at all. Not saying this is what happens to everyone, just
to me.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cpayne
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 16:02
Subject: Yak-List: Air start valve rebuild
The Chinese air start valve is the QDF-1. I'm told that the Yak uses the
same valve but not having a Yak available, I can't say from personal
experience. Does anyone have an interest in getting their spare valve
rebuilt? Not just the seals but a stainless steel "bottom" inlet where
all the trouble starts. I'm thinking of setting up do do several.
Let me know off-list if you are interested, no certain cost at this time
but the end result should result in a longer lasting unit than the
original.
Craig Payne
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Air start valve rebuild |
Mark is correct, abut 70% of the time the problem is in the elect solenoid
portion of the valve and not in the pneumatic section . However replacing
parts such as springs, etc. with stainless steel can't be a bad thing.
Craig: I do have some "service kits" which contain most of the small rubber
parts, if these are of use to you let me know.
Keeping the pneumatic system clean and dry in the first place is the key to
long life of all the components. Change the desiccant and filters often and
you will not have far fewer problems. Depending on the humidity you fly in
you may have to change the filters as often as every 10 to 12 hours. This
fact seems to be unexceptional to some folks, but if you want less pneumatic
problems you really do need to accept the fact that it's just the nature of
the beast. The filter recharge kits are only $17.50 each, have all
stainless steel screens, fresh felt filters and fresh dry desiccant. These
recharge kits are 100% reusable, just rinse/clean the filters and screens
and bake the desiccant at 170F for 24 hours in a electric oven. Don't use
gas as it is far to moist of heat to get the job done.
The stainless steel filter is a great mod, we have sold over 150 so far but
it will do you little good unless you first establish YOUR desiccant change
interval, then set up to change out the filters and desiccant at that
interval from now on. A good example is that if you live in Deer Valley you
can get away changing the filter packs far less often than in you live in GA
or FL where the humidity is
high, you just need to find what works in your area.
Because of the hassle of removing the filter to inspect the color (wetness)
of the desiccant I have come up with a method of inspection for color
without removing the filter body or opening the system. I have found a high
pressure "viewing port" which can be installed in the side of the filter
body. It is necessary to drill and tap the filter body to complete the
installation. Once installed you have a dime sized viewing area into the
desiccant, allowing you to easily see the color.
Doug
On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> wrote:
> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> It's the same exact valve. And that fact seems to be a well kept
> secret. See Doug, he has them. A smart person would order two.
>
> Mark
>
> P.s. Two on mine have failed in 10 years. In both cases it was the
> solenoid that failed. Get's weak.. Cleaning the valve and making it
> easier for the pin to operate helps. Eventually though it just gets too
> weak to work at all. Not saying this is what happens to everyone, just
> to me.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cpayne
> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 16:02
> To: yak-list
> Subject: Yak-List: Air start valve rebuild
>
>
> The Chinese air start valve is the QDF-1. I'm told that the Yak uses the
> same valve but not having a Yak available, I can't say from personal
> experience. Does anyone have an interest in getting their spare valve
> rebuilt? Not just the seals but a stainless steel "bottom" inlet where
> all the trouble starts. I'm thinking of setting up do do several.
>
> Let me know off-list if you are interested, no certain cost at this time
> but the end result should result in a longer lasting unit than the
> original.
>
> Craig Payne
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Air start valve rebuild |
Hi Doug,
would that fit for an 18T????
Didier
2010/6/7 doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com>
> Mark is correct, abut 70% of the time the problem is in the elect solenoid
> portion of the valve and not in the pneumatic section . However replacing
> parts such as springs, etc. with stainless steel can't be a bad thing.
> Craig: I do have some "service kits" which contain most of the small rubber
> parts, if these are of use to you let me know.
>
> Keeping the pneumatic system clean and dry in the first place is the key to
> long life of all the components. Change the desiccant and filters often and
> you will not have far fewer problems. Depending on the humidity you fly in
> you may have to change the filters as often as every 10 to 12 hours. This
> fact seems to be unexceptional to some folks, but if you want less pneumatic
> problems you really do need to accept the fact that it's just the nature of
> the beast. The filter recharge kits are only $17.50 each, have all
> stainless steel screens, fresh felt filters and fresh dry desiccant. These
> recharge kits are 100% reusable, just rinse/clean the filters and screens
> and bake the desiccant at 170F for 24 hours in a electric oven. Don't use
> gas as it is far to moist of heat to get the job done.
>
> The stainless steel filter is a great mod, we have sold over 150 so far but
> it will do you little good unless you first establish YOUR desiccant change
> interval, then set up to change out the filters and desiccant at that
> interval from now on. A good example is that if you live in Deer Valley you
> can get away changing the filter packs far less often than in you live in GA
> or FL where the humidity is
> high, you just need to find what works in your area.
>
> Because of the hassle of removing the filter to inspect the color (wetness)
> of the desiccant I have come up with a method of inspection for color
> without removing the filter body or opening the system. I have found a high
> pressure "viewing port" which can be installed in the side of the filter
> body. It is necessary to drill and tap the filter body to complete the
> installation. Once installed you have a dime sized viewing area into the
> desiccant, allowing you to easily see the color.
>
> Doug
>
> On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
> MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> wrote:
>
>> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>> It's the same exact valve. And that fact seems to be a well kept
>> secret. See Doug, he has them. A smart person would order two.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> P.s. Two on mine have failed in 10 years. In both cases it was the
>> solenoid that failed. Get's weak.. Cleaning the valve and making it
>> easier for the pin to operate helps. Eventually though it just gets too
>> weak to work at all. Not saying this is what happens to everyone, just
>> to me.
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cpayne
>> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 16:02
>> To: yak-list
>> Subject: Yak-List: Air start valve rebuild
>>
>>
>> The Chinese air start valve is the QDF-1. I'm told that the Yak uses the
>> same valve but not having a Yak available, I can't say from personal
>> experience. Does anyone have an interest in getting their spare valve
>> rebuilt? Not just the seals but a stainless steel "bottom" inlet where
>> all the trouble starts. I'm thinking of setting up do do several.
>>
>> Let me know off-list if you are interested, no certain cost at this time
>> but the end result should result in a longer lasting unit than the
>> original.
>>
>> Craig Payne
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
Message 4
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| Subject: | Red Bull Splash and Dash |
Even the Red Bull racers can succumb to a moment of inattentiveness. Watch
this dramatic recovery from an accelerated stall.
Doc
http://www.redbullairrace.com/cs/Satellite/en_air/Video/Halls-amazing-recove
ry-021242857873001
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Red Bull Splash and Dash |
He's the second guy to smack the water. The other guy pancaked in after the stall
but was OK.
Real nice touch that they showed this guys horrified wife on the video....not.
K
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300476#300476
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