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1. 05:56 AM - Re: Air start valve rebuild (A. Dennis Savarese)
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| Subject: | Re: Air start valve rebuild |
Didier,
If you will send me a photo of the 18T's pop off valve assembly location
along with a schematic of the 18T's pneumatic system (if you have one)
I'll be happy to look it over and send you what I have for installing
Doug's SUPER SS Air Filter. In my opinion, once you install Doug's
filter you can be assured the pneumatic system will be much healthier
than it ever was. The filter will eliminate to the maximum extent
possible, moisture being pushed back into the air bottles. As Doug says
though, changing the desiccant and filters often is the key to keeping
the system dry. And as everyone knows, moisture in the bottle is what
damages the pneumatic system components.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Didier Blouzard
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Air start valve rebuild
Hi Doug,
would that fit for an 18T????
Didier
2010/6/7 doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com>
Mark is correct, abut 70% of the time the problem is in the elect
solenoid portion of the valve and not in the pneumatic section .
However replacing parts such as springs, etc. with stainless steel can't
be a bad thing. Craig: I do have some "service kits" which contain most
of the small rubber parts, if these are of use to you let me know.
Keeping the pneumatic system clean and dry in the first place is the
key to long life of all the components. Change the desiccant and
filters often and you will not have far fewer problems. Depending on
the humidity you fly in you may have to change the filters as often as
every 10 to 12 hours. This fact seems to be unexceptional to some
folks, but if you want less pneumatic problems you really do need to
accept the fact that it's just the nature of the beast. The filter
recharge kits are only $17.50 each, have all stainless steel screens,
fresh felt filters and fresh dry desiccant. These recharge kits are
100% reusable, just rinse/clean the filters and screens and bake the
desiccant at 170F for 24 hours in a electric oven. Don't use gas as it
is far to moist of heat to get the job done.
The stainless steel filter is a great mod, we have sold over 150 so
far but it will do you little good unless you first establish YOUR
desiccant change interval, then set up to change out the filters and
desiccant at that interval from now on. A good example is that if you
live in Deer Valley you can get away changing the filter packs far less
often than in you live in GA or FL where the humidity is
high, you just need to find what works in your area.
Because of the hassle of removing the filter to inspect the color
(wetness) of the desiccant I have come up with a method of inspection
for color without removing the filter body or opening the system. I
have found a high pressure "viewing port" which can be installed in the
side of the filter body. It is necessary to drill and tap the filter
body to complete the installation. Once installed you have a dime sized
viewing area into the desiccant, allowing you to easily see the color.
Doug
On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry
Point, MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> wrote:
Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
It's the same exact valve. And that fact seems to be a well kept
secret. See Doug, he has them. A smart person would order two.
Mark
P.s. Two on mine have failed in 10 years. In both cases it was
the
solenoid that failed. Get's weak.. Cleaning the valve and making
it
easier for the pin to operate helps. Eventually though it just
gets too
weak to work at all. Not saying this is what happens to everyone,
just
to me.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cpayne
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 16:02
To: yak-list
Subject: Yak-List: Air start valve rebuild
The Chinese air start valve is the QDF-1. I'm told that the Yak
uses the
same valve but not having a Yak available, I can't say from
personal
experience. Does anyone have an interest in getting their spare
valve
rebuilt? Not just the seals but a stainless steel "bottom" inlet
where
all the trouble starts. I'm thinking of setting up do do several.
Let me know off-list if you are interested, no certain cost at
this time
but the end result should result in a longer lasting unit than the
original.
Craig Payne
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Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
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