Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - Re: CJ6 Hot Starts (Roger Kemp M.D.)
2. 09:09 AM - Re: CJ6 Hot Starts (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
3. 09:10 AM - Re: hot start (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
4. 09:12 AM - Re: CJ6 Hot Starts (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
5. 09:18 AM - Re: hot start (A. Dennis Savarese)
6. 09:20 AM - Re: CJ6 Hot Starts (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
7. 09:30 AM - Re: hot start (T A LEWIS)
8. 12:22 PM - Re: CJ6 Hot Starts (Walter Lannon)
9. 08:28 PM - Yak-18T Jacks (Beezhold)
Message 1
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When you first start pushing the primer in the pressure is low. If you open
the intake drain and watch for fuel to start to drip out it takes about 3 to
5 cycles on the primer pump on the cylinder side to feel the pressure
increase in the primer handle (resistance to pushing). Now watch the intake
drain as you continue to pump. It takes 2 more strokes to see a small amount
of fuel to start flowing from it. Push in the full 6 strokes and watch the
stream that forms flowing out of the drain.
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Hamlin
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
Walt,
What do you mean by "after filling the primer?"
--- On Tue, 7/27/10, Walter Lannon <wlannon@persona.ca> wrote:
From: Walter Lannon <wlannon@persona.ca>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
<http://us.mc511.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=wlannon@persona.ca> >
Your problem is simple. It is pretty severe over priming.
You are trying to fire up a air/fuel mixture with a ratio of maybe 3:1 (?)
instead of about 14:1. You are also washing the cylinder walls of oil which
is already thinned out by the high temperature and increasing the
possibility of hydraulic lock with excess fuel.
In the conditions you describe I use 1 or 2 shots after filling the primer
for the Huosai and the M14P. Works every time. For the R1340 I use 1/2
shot after filling the primer (large barrel type).
In addition I never pull the prop through while priming. I put that in the
same category as Russian roulette. If you have a failed mag. switch, a
disconnected or a broken "P"
lead you have a live mag. and are flirting with disaster.
Walt
----- Original Message ----- From: "Okanogan Lew" <vplewis@community.org
<http://us.mc511.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=vplewis@community.org> >
<http://us.mc511.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=yak-list@matronics.com> >
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 11:32 AM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
<http://us.mc511.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=vplewis@community.org> >
>
> Hey guys, I got one for you. I flew into Fairchild AFB for a show &
parked the CJ. The next day we were to fly in the show & start up time was
noon. By then it was about 90 degrees & I preformed my standard start-up
routine, which is 5 primes with a pull of the blade between each. I hit the
start & the engine turned over, but would not start. It didn't even fire.
I gave it 3 more primes, but still nothing. I then gave it about 5 primes &
still nothing. By then, I was very low on air & gave up. The next morning
about 0700 I tried it again with my usual start-up routine & the blade
turned about a half & it fired off. I ran it for about 15 minutes & shut it
down. We were again scheduled to fly at noon & by then it was in the mid
90's. I did my usual start-up & again it would turn over, but wouldn't even
fire. I primed the hell out of it & still nothing. Finally gave up again.
This morning, it started with the usual start up routine. Go Figure!! A
couple of poi!
> nts. I had 1/2 car gas & 1/2 av gas in the tanks. The right side of the
plane (primer side) was facing the sun. Do you think the heat cased a
vapor lock in the primer tube & was blocking the fuel flow? Any other
thoughts? I have the 285 HP engine & it ran fine for the hour trip home.
Thanks in advance for an info.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=306346#306346
>
>
>
>
> http://forums.sp; <http://forums.matronics.com/> - List
Contribution Web Sbsp; >
http://www.====================== <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
Message 2
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Walt, his problem may have been over-priming. Mine is certainly not.
I also do not think his was either to be honest. This is not a person
who has never started a hot engine before, and the problem he is having
is something that just started.
Mark Bittelich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Lewis
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 23:30
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
Thanks Walt, I posed the overpriming question to the Yak List a while
back & was told that the priming mixture went into the super charger &
wouldn't wash down the cyclinders. Was that bad info?
Paul
On Mon, Jul 26, 2010 at 8:02 PM, Walter Lannon <wlannon@persona.ca>
wrote:
<wlannon@persona.ca>
Your problem is simple. It is pretty severe over priming.
You are trying to fire up a air/fuel mixture with a ratio of
maybe 3:1 (?) instead of about 14:1. You are also washing the cylinder
walls of oil which is already thinned out by the high temperature and
increasing the possibility of hydraulic lock with excess fuel.
In the conditions you describe I use 1 or 2 shots after filling
the primer for the Huosai and the M14P. Works every time. For the
R1340 I use 1/2 shot after filling the primer (large barrel type).
In addition I never pull the prop through while priming. I put
that in the same category as Russian roulette. If you have a failed
mag. switch, a disconnected or a broken "P"
lead you have a live mag. and are flirting with disaster.
Walt
----- Original Message ----- From: "Okanogan Lew"
<vplewis@community.org>
To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 11:32 AM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
<vplewis@community.org>
Hey guys, I got one for you. I flew into Fairchild AFB
for a show & parked the CJ. The next day we were to fly in the show &
start up time was noon. By then it was about 90 degrees & I preformed
my standard start-up routine, which is 5 primes with a pull of the blade
between each. I hit the start & the engine turned over, but would not
start. It didn't even fire. I gave it 3 more primes, but still
nothing. I then gave it about 5 primes & still nothing. By then, I was
very low on air & gave up. The next morning about 0700 I tried it again
with my usual start-up routine & the blade turned about a half & it
fired off. I ran it for about 15 minutes & shut it down. We were again
scheduled to fly at noon & by then it was in the mid 90's. I did my
usual start-up & again it would turn over, but wouldn't even fire. I
primed the hell out of it & still nothing. Finally gave up again. This
morning, it started with the usual start up routine. Go Figure!! A
couple of poi!
nts. I had 1/2 car gas & 1/2 av gas in the tanks. The
right side of the plane (primer side) was facing the sun. Do you think
the heat cased a vapor lock in the primer tube & was blocking the fuel
flow? Any other thoughts? I have the 285 HP engine & it ran fine for
the hour trip home. Thanks in advance for an info.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=306346#306346
ties such as List Un/Subscription,
www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
Message 3
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That sounds good enough to me! How did you do that, did you pull a plug and just
look at the darn thing? Sometimes the simple solution is the best!
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of T A LEWIS
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 21:54
Subject: Yak-List: hot start
Mark,
I am sure that there was a factory gap that produced a robust ignition spark when
this " shower of sparks" was a new part .
That said , I am not going to instruct a person with your background on thedeviation
of such old parts andhow that now that
may be a mismatch with the original factory gap specs .
I found that if I activated the"shower of sparks"andduringthis timeadjusted the
gapI was able to visually achieve a spark that was much brighter than
what I started with .
This dramatically improvedmy warm weather start problem .
Not very scientificwithouta proper scope but it worked .
I must give credit to Garry Pope who put me on to this fix.
Terry Lewis
Message 4
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Thanks Dennis!
Mark
P.s. I'll try your way!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
Savarese
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 18:05
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
Take a look at the points in the "shower of sparks" unit. I would
venture a guess they are pitted. If so, burnish the points with a fine
point file and test again. I do not know the correct gap, but Mark is
100% right, as usual. The gap will make a huge difference in the spark.
With the "mounding" of the points, the gap is reduced and the output of
the unit is also reduced. Clean up the points first. Then for
experimentation, adjust the gap and watch the spark "jump" from the wire
to ground. REAL easy to do on the CJ by simply removing the cover. The
wider the point gap, the bigger the spark jump....to a point. Get them
too wide and nothing will happen. I adjusted mine at one time after
burnishing the points and called the adjustment the "that looks good
adjustment" or as we say in Alabama, 'bout right!
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mailto:mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 4:50 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
I personally think this has something to do with the "shower of
sparks"
(Booster Coil... Whatever) system used in these aircraft. I had
a very
bad problem with this exact same thing in my YAK-50, and it
still is not
totally corrected, but since I use Dennis's high performance
wire and
plugs, I was able to correct a lot of this by using a plug gap
of .020
versus .032, or .035 However, the engine would always start
when cold,
even when using a .035 plug gap and it always RAN well once
started even
with that wide plug gap. This tends to infer that for some
reason the
starting system is not producing enough energy to fire properly
with a
hot engine and a wide plug gap. I really am not sure how much
this has
to do with fuel. I was running 100% 100 Low Lead at the time.
The
engine simply would not start when hot and did EXACTLY what
yours did.
Outside temperature on the days this happened were also in the
90's. So
while fuel MIGHT have been involved, it sure did not have
anything to do
with MO-GAS being used.
I worked on this problem a long time. I replaced the Shower of
Sparks
vibrator coil with one from another YAK-50. However, it was NOT
a new
one. Never-the-less, a working one. It did not help. I
replaced the
high tension wire going from the coil to the mag. No help. I
then
devised a way to make darn sure that the wire running from the
coil to
the mag was making good contact inside the mag cap (where
normally the
wire is penetrated by a sharp screw in pin. No help. I
replaced the
mag rotor. No help. I then replaced the mag cap. No help. I
then
put in new spark plugs gapped to .020 Problem went away...
Mostly.
But it still rears it's ugly head now and again on a very hot
start.
A gent from Australia (sorry I forget your name) mentioned that
there is
an adjustment of the buzzer points that are internal to the
shower of
sparks coil, and he is absolutely correct. I took a few apart
and saw
that adjustment but did not toy with it, because I was reluctant
to
change it not knowing what the exact gap is supposed to be.
Since the
Shower of Sparks coils are identical in the YAK-50 and the CJ-6A
models,
I wonder if Doug or anyone else has a "Task Card" that specifies
what
that gap is supposed to be. Like the Australian Gent, I have a
strong
feeling that this gap will make a HUGE difference in the voltage
output.
Misadjustment could easily result in not enough energy to fire a
really
hot engine, and I have suspected this might have been my problem
all
along. I just am not sure how to test this though. Looking at
the
output of a coil like that is not really simplistic, but it
might be
simply a matter of trying what the other gent did, and just move
it one
or two clicks and see what happens.
In any case, I don't have a definitive answer, and the matter is
worth
discussing.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Okanogan Lew
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 2:33 PM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
<vplewis@community.org>
Hey guys, I got one for you. I flew into Fairchild AFB for a
show &
parked the CJ. The next day we were to fly in the show & start
up time
was noon. By then it was about 90 degrees & I preformed my
standard
start-up routine, which is 5 primes with a pull of the blade
between
each. I hit the start & the engine turned over, but would not
start.
It didn't even fire. I gave it 3 more primes, but still
nothing. I
then gave it about 5 primes & still nothing. By then, I was
very low on
air & gave up. The next morning about 0700 I tried it again
with my
usual start-up routine & the blade turned about a half & it
fired off.
I ran it for about 15 minutes & shut it down. We were again
scheduled
to fly at noon & by then it was in the mid 90's. I did my usual
start-up & again it would turn over, but wouldn't even fire. I
primed
the hell out of it & still nothing. Finally gave up again.
This
morning, it started with the usual start up routine. Go
Figure!! A
couple of poi!
nts. I had 1/2 car gas & 1/2 av gas in the tanks. The right
side of
the plane (primer side) was facing the sun. Do you think the
heat
cased a vapor lock in the primer tube & was blocking the fuel
flow? Any
other thoughts? I have the 285 HP engine & it ran fine for the
hour
trip home. Thanks in advance for an info.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=306346#306346
http://www.matronics========================<; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_p; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
===============
Message 5
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All I did with mine Mark was hold the wire away from ground and watch
the spark jump. The closer the points were, the closer I had to hold
the wire to ground to get the spark to jump. When the spark jumped
about 1/2" or so, I called that " 'bout right" and closed it up. Worked
perfectly after that. It's the equivalent of what you would say as a
gov't/civil servant....."close enough for government work". :-)
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 11:10 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: hot start
Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
That sounds good enough to me! How did you do that, did you pull a
plug and just look at the darn thing? Sometimes the simple solution is
the best!
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of T A LEWIS
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 21:54
To: yak list
Subject: Yak-List: hot start
Mark,
I am sure that there was a factory gap that produced a robust ignition
spark when this " shower of sparks" was a new part .
That said , I am not going to instruct a person with your background
on the deviation of such old parts and how that now that
may be a mismatch with the original factory gap specs .
I found that if I activated the "shower of sparks" and during this
time adjusted the gap I was able to visually achieve a spark that was
much brighter than
what I started with .
This dramatically improved my warm weather start problem .
Not very scientific without a proper scope but it worked .
I must give credit to Garry Pope who put me on to this fix.
Terry Lewis
Message 6
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Some call it TOMATO Some call it TOOMATOO, what-ever.
If you really want to be accurate, let's call it a Model "T" Vibrator
Coil.
In any case, this is a coil that is stand alone and uses a square wave
input in order to generate a secondary output from a transformer. The
square wave is generated by a BUZZER with electrical contacts that makes
and breaks a 28 VDC input. This produces a steady stream of spark
energy that is in no way controlled by internal MAG components, like
points, etc. The internal MAG coil is not used, the internal MAG points
are not used, the Internal MAG Cigarette is not used. The spark energy
is fed directly to the ROTOR and as the ROTOR spins a steady stream of
spark energy jumps to each spark plug in turn. In truth the engine
should be able to RUN on this energy alone. Not very well, because on a
M-14 it is very much retarded, but it will in fact run.
Whatever you want to call it is fine with me, but most people understand
it when you call it a SHOWER OF SPARKS. BOOSTER COIL is fine too, but
it sure is not BOOSTING anything as far as I can see, so it is a simple
matter of nomenclature. OK? Walt is correct in that the people that
made this unit for 1940 engines called it a "Booster Coil". He's right.
It does BOOST the 28 volts way up there. It then provides a continious
"shower of sparks" as the rotor turns. So it is a BOOSTER COIL that
produces a SHOWER OF SPARKS... Or if not that... A WHOLE LOT OF SPARKS
JUST WAITING TO GET THERE. Whatever.
The point gap will influence the length of the square wave which will in
turn impact the strength of the field as it builds. The longer the time
period of the square wave, the bigger the transformer flux field will
build. If you go too much, the field will already be at maximum and you
will just start flowing excess current through the coil heating it. Be
nice to be able to look at it somehow with a measurement and be able to
go for the max. Just not sure how to do that. I think just LOOKING at
it may be in fact the best solution.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Lannon
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 23:33
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
Paul;
The reason for that is simply that it is not a 'shower of sparks"
system.
The subject has been discussed ad infinitum on this list but of course
makes no difference.
In our lexicon it is a "start boost coil". In the CJ6 manuals it is a
"starting ignition coil". The P/N is DH-2, it is located on the LH
firewall readily identified by the HT lead to the LH mag.
It is an absolutely exact copy of the original Bendix/Scintilla unit
from the 1940's.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Lewis <mailto:okanoganlew@gmail.com>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
Mark, where is the shower of sparks unit located? I assume it's
close to the mags? I have 5 chinese manuals, but none of them show it.
Paul
On Mon, Jul 26, 2010 at 2:50 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det
Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> wrote:
Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
I personally think this has something to do with the
"shower of sparks"
(Booster Coil... Whatever) system used in these
aircraft. I had a very
bad problem with this exact same thing in my YAK-50, and
it still is not
totally corrected, but since I use Dennis's high
performance wire and
plugs, I was able to correct a lot of this by using a
plug gap of .020
versus .032, or .035 However, the engine would always
start when cold,
even when using a .035 plug gap and it always RAN well
once started even
with that wide plug gap. This tends to infer that for
some reason the
starting system is not producing enough energy to fire
properly with a
hot engine and a wide plug gap. I really am not sure
how much this has
to do with fuel. I was running 100% 100 Low Lead at the
time. The
engine simply would not start when hot and did EXACTLY
what yours did.
Outside temperature on the days this happened were also
in the 90's. So
while fuel MIGHT have been involved, it sure did not
have anything to do
with MO-GAS being used.
I worked on this problem a long time. I replaced the
Shower of Sparks
vibrator coil with one from another YAK-50. However, it
was NOT a new
one. Never-the-less, a working one. It did not help.
I replaced the
high tension wire going from the coil to the mag. No
help. I then
devised a way to make darn sure that the wire running
from the coil to
the mag was making good contact inside the mag cap
(where normally the
wire is penetrated by a sharp screw in pin. No help. I
replaced the
mag rotor. No help. I then replaced the mag cap. No
help. I then
put in new spark plugs gapped to .020 Problem went
away... Mostly.
But it still rears it's ugly head now and again on a
very hot start.
A gent from Australia (sorry I forget your name)
mentioned that there is
an adjustment of the buzzer points that are internal to
the shower of
sparks coil, and he is absolutely correct. I took a few
apart and saw
that adjustment but did not toy with it, because I was
reluctant to
change it not knowing what the exact gap is supposed to
be. Since the
Shower of Sparks coils are identical in the YAK-50 and
the CJ-6A models,
I wonder if Doug or anyone else has a "Task Card" that
specifies what
that gap is supposed to be. Like the Australian Gent, I
have a strong
feeling that this gap will make a HUGE difference in the
voltage output.
Misadjustment could easily result in not enough energy
to fire a really
hot engine, and I have suspected this might have been my
problem all
along. I just am not sure how to test this though.
Looking at the
output of a coil like that is not really simplistic, but
it might be
simply a matter of trying what the other gent did, and
just move it one
or two clicks and see what happens.
In any case, I don't have a definitive answer, and the
matter is worth
discussing.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
Of Okanogan Lew
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 2:33 PM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
<vplewis@community.org>
Hey guys, I got one for you. I flew into Fairchild AFB
for a show &
parked the CJ. The next day we were to fly in the show
& start up time
was noon. By then it was about 90 degrees & I preformed
my standard
start-up routine, which is 5 primes with a pull of the
blade between
each. I hit the start & the engine turned over, but
would not start.
It didn't even fire. I gave it 3 more primes, but still
nothing. I
then gave it about 5 primes & still nothing. By then, I
was very low on
air & gave up. The next morning about 0700 I tried it
again with my
usual start-up routine & the blade turned about a half &
it fired off.
I ran it for about 15 minutes & shut it down. We were
again scheduled
to fly at noon & by then it was in the mid 90's. I did
my usual
start-up & again it would turn over, but wouldn't even
fire. I primed
the hell out of it & still nothing. Finally gave up
again. This
morning, it started with the usual start up routine. Go
Figure!! A
couple of poi!
nts. I had 1/2 car gas & 1/2 av gas in the tanks. The
right side of
the plane (primer side) was facing the sun. Do you
think the heat
cased a vapor lock in the primer tube & was blocking the
fuel flow? Any
other thoughts? I have the 285 HP engine & it ran fine
for the hour
trip home. Thanks in advance for an info.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=306346#306346
ilities such as List Un/Subscription,
www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
Message 7
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That's correct .
I pulled a rear plug and closed the hangar door .
You can then see the spark very well .
Terry
----- Original Message ----
From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Sent: Tue, July 27, 2010 12:10:27 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: hot start
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
That sounds good enough to me! How did you do that, did you pull a plug and
just look at the darn thing? Sometimes the simple solution is the best!
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of T A LEWIS
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 21:54
Subject: Yak-List: hot start
Mark,
I am sure that there was a factory gap that produced a robust ignition spark
when this " shower of sparks" was a new part .
That said , I am not going to instruct a person with your background on
thedeviation of such old parts andhow that now that
may be a mismatch with the original factory gap specs .
I found that if I activated the"shower of sparks"andduringthis timeadjusted
the gapI was able to visually achieve a spark that was much brighter than
what I started with .
This dramatically improvedmy warm weather start problem .
Not very scientificwithouta proper scope but it worked .
I must give credit to Garry Pope who put me on to this fix.
Terry Lewis
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: CJ6 Hot Starts |
Hi Paul;
Operate the primer until you feel a definite resistance to the down
stroke.
If the primer is in good shape - no leaking ball valves, etc. it should
take about 3 strokes
Do the upstroke slowly for best results
Cheers;
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Hamlin
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
Walt,
What do you mean by "after filling the primer?"
--- On Tue, 7/27/10, Walter Lannon <wlannon@persona.ca> wrote:
From: Walter Lannon <wlannon@persona.ca>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, July 27, 2010, 4:02 AM
<wlannon@persona.ca>
Your problem is simple. It is pretty severe over priming.
You are trying to fire up a air/fuel mixture with a ratio of
maybe 3:1 (?) instead of about 14:1. You are also washing the cylinder
walls of oil which is already thinned out by the high temperature and
increasing the possibility of hydraulic lock with excess fuel.
In the conditions you describe I use 1 or 2 shots after
filling the primer for the Huosai and the M14P. Works every time. For
the R1340 I use 1/2 shot after filling the primer (large barrel type).
In addition I never pull the prop through while priming. I
put that in the same category as Russian roulette. If you have a failed
mag. switch, a disconnected or a broken "P"
lead you have a live mag. and are flirting with disaster.
Walt
----- Original Message ----- From: "Okanogan Lew"
<vplewis@community.org>
To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 11:32 AM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 Hot Starts
<vplewis@community.org>
>
> Hey guys, I got one for you. I flew into Fairchild AFB for
a show & parked the CJ. The next day we were to fly in the show & start
up time was noon. By then it was about 90 degrees & I preformed my
standard start-up routine, which is 5 primes with a pull of the blade
between each. I hit the start & the engine turned over, but would not
start. It didn't even fire. I gave it 3 more primes, but still
nothing. I then gave it about 5 primes & still nothing. By then, I was
very low on air & gave up. The next morning about 0700 I tried it again
with my usual start-up routine & the blade turned about a half & it
fired off. I ran it for about 15 minutes & shut it down. We were again
scheduled to fly at noon & by then it was in the mid 90's. I did my
usual start-up & again it would turn over, but wouldn't even fire. I
primed the hell out of it & still nothing. Finally gave up again. This
morning, it started with the usual start up routine. Go Figure!! A
couple of poi!
> nts. I had 1/2 car gas & 1/2 av gas in the tanks. The
right side of the plane (primer side) was facing the sun. Do you think
the heat cased a vapor lock in the primer tube & was blocking the fuel
flow? Any other thoughts? I have the 285 HP engine & it ran fine for
the hour trip home. Thanks in advance for an info.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=306346#306346
>
>
>
>
> http://forums.sp; - List Contribution Web Sbsp;
>
http://www.=====================
Message 9
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Does anyone have a set of jacks for sale for a Yak-18T or a possible source? Please
let me know. Thanks!
--------
TJB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=306523#306523
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