Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:41 AM - Oil shut-off valve (Vic)
2. 05:23 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (A. Dennis Savarese)
3. 06:26 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Eric Wobschall)
4. 06:38 AM - Re: 18T issues (Roger Kemp M.D.)
5. 07:12 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
6. 07:15 AM - Re: 18T issues (Herb Coussons)
7. 07:25 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Roger Kemp M.D.)
8. 07:25 AM - Re: 18T issues (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
9. 08:30 AM - Gill shutters and powder coating (keithmckinley)
10. 08:35 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (keithmckinley)
11. 09:23 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (A. Dennis Savarese)
12. 10:01 AM - Re: 18T issues (Olivier Vigneron)
13. 10:09 AM - Re: 18T issues (A. Dennis Savarese)
14. 10:16 AM - Re: 18T issues (George Coy)
15. 10:36 AM - Re: Gill shutters and powder coating (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
16. 10:36 AM - Re: 18T issues (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
17. 10:50 AM - Re: Gill shutters and powder coating (doug sapp)
18. 10:59 AM - Re: 18T issues (keithmckinley)
19. 11:00 AM - Re: Gill shutters and powder coating (keithmckinley)
20. 11:51 AM - Re: 18T issues (Didier Blouzard)
21. 01:52 PM - Re: 18T issues (Eric Wobschall)
22. 02:09 PM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Eric Wobschall)
23. 02:10 PM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Eric Wobschall)
24. 02:40 PM - Re: 18T issues (Didier Blouzard)
25. 02:59 PM - Re: Gill shutters and powder coating (Gill Gutierrez)
26. 05:23 PM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (William Halverson)
27. 05:23 PM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (William Halverson)
28. 07:46 PM - Re: Gill shutters and powder coating (Roger Kemp M.D.)
29. 11:06 PM - Starting Problems Yak 52 (Bill Lang)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
Hello,
to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which works great
on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I added a ball valve into
the feed hose to the oil pump on the right side of the fire wall where the hose
forms a U-shape. The lever on the ball valve is connected to the lever of the
petrol tap on the left side via push-pull rod, so when you close the petrol
after engine shut-down, you shut the oil at the same time. No more need to drain
the crank case before start. You just cannot forget to turn on the oil as
you cannot miss that petrol has to be opened in the cockpit, as both valves are
connected by pushrod. I added a safety spring to the ball valve, pulling in
the "open"position, in case, something should break.
There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a straight pushrod
between both valves but it can be done. I dont know if this goes for 52s
as well. Maybe there is need for an intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear
obstacles, but the system seems reasonably failsafe to me.
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Oil shut-off valve |
Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil shut of
kit for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a microswitch which
is wired to the air start button/air start valve. If the valve is
closed, the engine can not be started because the microswitch remains
engaged by the lever on the shut off valve.
http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php Slide down the page
to the 6th item.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Vic
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
Hello,
to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which
works great on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I added
a ball valve into the feed hose to the oil pump on the right side of the
fire wall where the hose forms a U-shape. The lever on the ball valve is
connected to the lever of the petrol tap on the left side via push-pull
rod, so when you close the petrol after engine shut-down, you shut the
oil at the same time. No more need to drain the crank case before start.
You just cannot forget to turn on the oil as you cannot miss that petrol
has to be opened in the cockpit, as both valves are connected by
pushrod. I added a safety spring to the ball valve, pulling in the
"open"position, in case, something should break.
There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a
straight pushrod between both valves but it can be done. I don=C2=B4t
know if this goes for 52s as well. Maybe there is need for an
intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear obstacles, but the system
seems reasonably failsafe to me.
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oil shut-off valve |
I have also heard varying opinions about whether or not the fuel valve
should be shut off regularly. Opinions?
On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:20 AM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil shut
> of kit for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a microswitch
> which is wired to the air start button/air start valve. If the
> valve is closed, the engine can not be started because the
> microswitch remains engaged by the lever on the shut off valve.
http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php
> Slide down the page to the 6th item.
> Dennis
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Vic
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
>
> Hello,
> to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which
> works great on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I
> added a ball valve into the feed hose to the oil pump on the right
> side of the fire wall where the hose forms a U-shape. The lever on
> the ball valve is connected to the lever of the petrol tap on the
> left side via push-pull rod, so when you close the petrol after
> engine shut-down, you shut the oil at the same time. No more need to
> drain the crank case before start. You just cannot forget to turn on
> the oil as you cannot miss that petrol has to be opened in the
> cockpit, as both valves are connected by pushrod. I added a safety
> spring to the ball valve, pulling in the "open"position, in case,
> something should break.
> There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a
> straight pushrod between both valves but it can be done. I don=C2=B4t
> know if this goes for 52s as well. Maybe there is need for an
> intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear obstacles, but the
> system seems reasonably failsafe to me.
>
> Vic
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
>
>
> p; Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ">http://www.matronics=================
=======<; via the Web
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _p; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ">http://www.matronics.com/c===============
=
>
>
Message 4
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Look at the E-Z aircraft engine pre-heater on the Aircraft Spruce website.
www.aircraftspruce.com
You can mount one pad on the sump case and one on the oil tank.
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 12:57 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you have a
BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles everywhere into the oil.
Only my 2 cents,
Jan
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier Blouzard
Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
Richard,
thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.
In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill the
plane with 100LL from time to time.
But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking records
every 20 hours.
For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is the
best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and the work
id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in the same time.
Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a resistor...??
Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
Didier BLOUZARD
2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say that
no additional help from lead is needed.
But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give it 100ll whenever
you can.
You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.
It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand litres -
and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest, since they are
using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is prudent to look over
the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.
The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.
For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make up
connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder valve.
I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate
supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going
into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the
engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as such.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 5
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
Before starting the engine after some rather extensive work, a good friend of mine
was pulling the prop through when the engine started. The prop struck him
taking a good chunk out of the blade as well as his knee and leg. The gent fell
to the ground and the aircraft started rolling forward. I was standing there
and actually saw all this happen and ran out and stopped the aircraft from
moving. After he was pulled away by other folks at the airport I went to the
cockpit and tried to shut down the engine. Both MAGS were already OFF. I then
went to pull the fuel shut-off handle but it was actually tied to another handle
marked OIL SHUT OFF. So by pulling the fuel handle, I would also be shutting
off the oil. Not exactly the same design Vic has, but the same results.
We all tend to think of things in our aircraft always working the way they should.
Obviously sometimes they don't. Our M-14's are shut off by turning off
the mags. The mags are turned off by providing a GROUND to a "P" lead. All that
needs to happen is for one of those wires to break and the engine will not
be able to be shut down by the normal method. Switch failure, wire failure,
whatever. The engine will not shut off. This leaves the Emergency Fuel Shut-Off
as the only real method of securing the engine. However, when you pull this
handle, the engine does not immediately shut off, it runs for awhile. If you
have your oil shut-off valve connected so that it also shuts off with the Emergency
Fuel Handle, then you will be running your engine without oil.
To finish my particular story, I did just that. I pulled the shut-off handle out,
the engine kept running and I then watched the oil pressure dropping to zero.
I shoved the handle back in because I just could not stand to ruin an engine.
Especially THIS engine.
After chocking the airplane, I manually grounded the left mag which killed the
engine. The "P" lead grounding wire was open to the switch.
Mark Bitterlich
P.s. Dennis, I do not believe in pulling the emergency fuel shut off handle after
every flight. I personally believe that the pressure carb should have fuel
to it at all times to help prevent diaphragms from drying out. However, I do
believe it testing it every once in awhile! :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
I have also heard varying opinions about whether or not the fuel valve should be
shut off regularly. Opinions?
On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:20 AM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil shut of kit for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a microswitch which is wired to the air start button/air start valve. If the valve is closed, the engine can not be started because the microswitch remains engaged by the lever on the shut off valve. http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php Slide down the page to the 6th item.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Vic <mailto:vicmolnar@aol.com>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
Hello,
to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which works great
on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I added a ball valve into
the feed hose to the oil pump on the right side of the fire wall where the
hose forms a U-shape. The lever on the ball valve is connected to the lever of
the petrol tap on the left side via push-pull rod, so when you close the petrol
after engine shut-down, you shut the oil at the same time. No more need to
drain the crank case before start. You just cannot forget to turn on the oil as
you cannot miss that petrol has to be opened in the cockpit, as both valves
are connected by pushrod. I added a safety spring to the ball valve, pulling in
the "open"position, in case, something should break.
There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a straight pushrod
between both valves but it can be done. I dont know if this goes for 52s
as well. Maybe there is need for an intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear
obstacles, but the system seems reasonably failsafe to me.
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
p; Navigator Photoshare, and href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics========================<; via the Web href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 6
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EZ heat works great here in the frozen north. I have had it on 3 M14's
Herb
Green Bay
On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:36 AM, Roger Kemp M.D. wrote:
> Look at the E-Z aircraft engine pre-heater on the Aircraft Spruce
website. www.aircraftspruce.com
> You can mount one pad on the sump case and one on the oil tank.
> Doc
>
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 12:57 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> Don=92t put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you
have a BIG problem, because you=92ll scatter small particles everywhere
into the oil.
>
> Only my 2 cents,
>
> Jan
>
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier
Blouzard
> Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> Richard,
>
> thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
>
> For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.
>
> In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill
the plane with 100LL from time to time.
>
> But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking
records every 20 hours.
>
> For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is
the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and
the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in
the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a
resistor...??
>
> Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
>
> Didier BLOUZARD
>
>
>
>
> 2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
>
> The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say
that no additional help from lead is needed.
>
> But, I see no harm in adding lead ' a good idea to give it 100ll
whenever you can.
>
> You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.
>
> It is not that expensive ' 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand
litres ' and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest,
since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
>
> There is no 50-hour check ' but my own view is it is prudent to look
over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.
>
> The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.
>
> For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to
make up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive
Schraeder valve.
>
> I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate
supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going
into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the
engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as
such.
>
> Richard Goode Aerobatics
> Rhodds Farm
> Lyonshall
> Herefordshire
> HR5 3LW
> United Kingdom
>
> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
> www.russianaeros.com
>
>
>
> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> --
> Didier BLOUZARD
> didier.blouzard@gmail.com
> 0624243672
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
Dr. Herb Coussons, MD
drc@wscare.com
2641 Development Drive
Green Bay, WI 54311
Cell 920-639-8434
Work 920-338-6868
Fax 920-338-6869
Message 7
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
I concur with the idea that it needs to be tested occasionally. I had
one
that the cable was binding up on so it would not completely close the
valve
so obviously the engine would not shut off when the T handle was pulled.
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
I have also heard varying opinions about whether or not the fuel valve
should be shut off regularly. Opinions?
On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:20 AM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil shut of
kit
for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a microswitch which is
wired
to the air start button/air start valve. If the valve is closed, the
engine
can not be started because the microswitch remains engaged by the lever
on
the shut off valve. http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php
Slide down the page to the 6th item.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Vic <mailto:vicmolnar@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
Hello,
to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which works
great on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I added a
ball
valve into the feed hose to the oil pump on the right side of the fire
wall
where the hose forms a U-shape. The lever on the ball valve is connected
to
the lever of the petrol tap on the left side via push-pull rod, so when
you
close the petrol after engine shut-down, you shut the oil at the same
time.
No more need to drain the crank case before start. You just cannot
forget to
turn on the oil as you cannot miss that petrol has to be opened in the
cockpit, as both valves are connected by pushrod. I added a safety
spring to
the ball valve, pulling in the "open"position, in case, something should
break.
There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a
straight
pushrod between both valves but it can be done. I don=C2=B4t know if
this goes
for 52s as well. Maybe there is need for an intermediate lever and two
pushrods to clear obstacles, but the system seems reasonably failsafe to
me.
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
<http://forums.matronics.com/files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg>
p; Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics
====
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Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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ontri
bution
Message 8
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In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil with a heating
"element". There are all kinds of articles on that issue discussing
moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other "issues". The old
"stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was apparently not the best
way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc mentioned
http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft operating in cold
weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank simply by
glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first of course, but
mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up heating the whole
metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They include a thermostat
and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.
I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of bush airplanes.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:57 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you have
a BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles everywhere into
the oil.
Only my 2 cents,
Jan
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier
Blouzard
Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
Richard,
thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.
In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill
the plane with 100LL from time to time.
But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking
records every 20 hours.
For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is
the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and
the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in
the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a
resistor...??
Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
Didier BLOUZARD
2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say
that no additional help from lead is needed.
But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give it 100ll
whenever you can.
You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.
It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand
litres - and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest,
since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is prudent to look
over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.
The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.
For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make
up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder
valve.
I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate
supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going
into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the
engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as
such.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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| Subject: | Gill shutters and powder coating |
Hello everyone,
I have never had anything powder coated but understand the process involves some
high temperatures for curing. I suspect this will be an issue for the wood core
in the gill shutters. Does anyone have experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Keith McKinley
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312635#312635
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Oil shut-off valve |
Vic,
Who makes that valve you used?
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312636#312636
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Oil shut-off valve |
Fuel shut off - I am not aware of any reason or benefit to pulling the
fuel shut off after every flight. But that is just my opinion and only
worth what you've paid for it. You can verify the fuel will shut off
without running the engine. Pull the fuel shut off handle to the closed
position. Turn the primer pump knob to the left or system side and pull
the primer pump out. Now pump the primer until you feel a significant
amount of back pressure. At that point you will not be able to push the
primer pump back in. While holding pressure on the primer pump, push
the fuel shut off handle forward. The primer pump should immediately go
forward and bottom out at the instrument panel. This tells you the fuel
can be shut off.
If you can not build up back pressure with the fuel shut off handle
pulled to the rear and pumping the primer pump as described, either the
cable or the lever itself at the coarse fuel screen needs to be
adjusted.
This should be a mandatory test during the annual condition inspection.
On the CJ you can do the same thing except use the wobble pump handle.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Wobschall
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
I have also heard varying opinions about whether or not the fuel valve
should be shut off regularly. Opinions?
On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:20 AM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil shut
of kit for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a microswitch
which is wired to the air start button/air start valve. If the valve is
closed, the engine can not be started because the microswitch remains
engaged by the lever on the shut off valve.
http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php Slide down the page
to the 6th item.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Vic
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
Hello,
to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which
works great on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I added
a ball valve into the feed hose to the oil pump on the right side of the
fire wall where the hose forms a U-shape. The lever on the ball valve is
connected to the lever of the petrol tap on the left side via push-pull
rod, so when you close the petrol after engine shut-down, you shut the
oil at the same time. No more need to drain the crank case before start.
You just cannot forget to turn on the oil as you cannot miss that petrol
has to be opened in the cockpit, as both valves are connected by
pushrod. I added a safety spring to the ball valve, pulling in the
"open"position, in case, something should break.
There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a
straight pushrod between both valves but it can be done. I don=C2=B4t
know if this goes for 52s as well. Maybe there is need for an
intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear obstacles, but the system
seems reasonably failsafe to me.
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
Attachments:
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Message 12
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Hi Mark
Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?
Thanks
Olivier
2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <
mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil with a heating
> "element". There are all kinds of articles on that issue discussing
> moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other "issues". The old
> "stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was apparently not the best
> way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc mentioned
> http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft operating in cold
> weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank simply by
> glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first of course, but
> mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up heating the whole
> metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They include a thermostat
> and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.
>
> I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of bush airplanes.
>
> Mark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:57 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you have
> a BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles everywhere into
> the oil.
>
>
> Only my 2 cents,
>
>
> Jan
>
>
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier
> Blouzard
> Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
>
> Richard,
>
> thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
>
> For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.
>
> In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill
> the plane with 100LL from time to time.
>
> But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking
> records every 20 hours.
>
> For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is
> the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and
> the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in
> the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a
> resistor...??
>
> Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
>
> Didier BLOUZARD
>
>
> 2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
>
>
> The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say
> that no additional help from lead is needed.
>
>
> But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give it 100ll
> whenever you can.
>
>
> You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.
>
>
> It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand
> litres - and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest,
> since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
>
>
> There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is prudent to look
> over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.
>
>
> The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.
>
>
> For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make
> up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder
> valve.
>
>
> I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate
> supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going
> into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the
> engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as
> such.
>
>
> Richard Goode Aerobatics
>
> Rhodds Farm
>
> Lyonshall
>
> Herefordshire
>
> HR5 3LW
>
> United Kingdom
>
>
> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
>
> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
>
> www.russianaeros.com
>
>
> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> --
> Didier BLOUZARD
> didier.blouzard@gmail.com
> 0624243672
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 13
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You may also want to seriously consider a separate heat pad for the oil
cooler. Highly recommended!
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Olivier Vigneron
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
Hi Mark
Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?
Thanks
Olivier
2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil with a
heating
"element". There are all kinds of articles on that issue discussing
moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other "issues". The
old
"stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was apparently not the
best
way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc mentioned
http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft operating in cold
weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank simply by
glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first of course,
but
mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up heating the
whole
metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They include a
thermostat
and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.
I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of bush
airplanes.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:57 AM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you
have
a BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles everywhere
into
the oil.
Only my 2 cents,
Jan
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier
Blouzard
Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
Richard,
thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.
In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to
fill
the plane with 100LL from time to time.
But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking
records every 20 hours.
For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple)
is
the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses
and
the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil
in
the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a
resistor...??
Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
Didier BLOUZARD
2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians
say
that no additional help from lead is needed.
But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give it 100ll
whenever you can.
You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.
It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand
litres - and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they
suggest,
since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is prudent to look
over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often
used.
The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.
For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to
make
up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive
Schraeder
valve.
I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a
separate
supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump,
going
into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around
the
engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit
as
such.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
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We have seen oil coolers "blow up" from people forgetting to preheat them.
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
You may also want to seriously consider a separate heat pad for the oil
cooler. Highly recommended!
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Olivier Vigneron <mailto:ssssskippy@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
Hi Mark
Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?
Thanks
Olivier
2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil with a heating
"element". There are all kinds of articles on that issue discussing
moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other "issues". The old
"stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was apparently not the best
way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc mentioned
http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft operating in cold
weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank simply by
glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first of course, but
mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up heating the whole
metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They include a thermostat
and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.
I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of bush airplanes.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:57 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you have
a BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles everywhere into
the oil.
Only my 2 cents,
Jan
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier
Blouzard
Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
Richard,
thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.
In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill
the plane with 100LL from time to time.
But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking
records every 20 hours.
For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is
the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and
the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in
the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a
resistor...??
Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
Didier BLOUZARD
2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say
that no additional help from lead is needed.
But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give it 100ll
whenever you can.
You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.
It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand
litres - and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest,
since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is prudent to look
over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.
The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.
For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make
up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder
valve.
I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate
supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going
into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the
engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as
such.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?Yak-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 15
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| Subject: | Gill shutters and powder coating |
Keith, the wood will go up in smoke.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of keithmckinley
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:28 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
--> <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
Hello everyone,
I have never had anything powder coated but understand the process
involves some high temperatures for curing. I suspect this will be an
issue for the wood core in the gill shutters. Does anyone have
experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Keith McKinley
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312635#312635
Message 16
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Honestly Olivier, I can't even begin to remember! I got those heating
pads 10 years ago (and they still work by the way).
I think I just went to their web site and talked to their sales agent.
I have one that has two pads. In other words, it has one power cord,
that controls TWO heating pads. Both of those are on the bottom of the
oil tank itself.
Then I have another one that is stuck on the lower sump.
I do not have one on the oil cooler, as Dennis recommended, BUT .... I
have a very unique oil cooler in my YAK-50. It has a thermostat bypass,
so that when the weather is cold, the oil cooler is BY-PASSED.
When it comes to these aircraft, I would listen carefully to anything
Dennis recommends.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
Savarese
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
You may also want to seriously consider a separate heat pad for the oil
cooler. Highly recommended!
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Olivier Vigneron <mailto:ssssskippy@gmail.com>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
Hi Mark
Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?
Thanks
Olivier
2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil
with a heating
"element". There are all kinds of articles on that
issue discussing
moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other
"issues". The old
"stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was
apparently not the best
way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc
mentioned
http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft
operating in cold
weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank
simply by
glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first
of course, but
mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up
heating the whole
metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They
include a thermostat
and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.
I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of
bush airplanes.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:57 AM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows
up, then you have
a BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles
everywhere into
the oil.
Only my 2 cents,
Jan
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
Of Didier
Blouzard
Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
Richard,
thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5
fill.
In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I
will have to fill
the plane with 100LL from time to time.
But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs
for tracking
records every 20 hours.
For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe
and simple) is
the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the
good hoses and
the work id done. I will try to do something that can
heat the oil in
the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the
tank with a
resistor...??
Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
Didier BLOUZARD
2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and
the Russians say
that no additional help from lead is needed.
But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give
it 100ll
whenever you can.
You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in
the UK.
It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat
a thousand
litres - and you do not need to put in nearly as much as
they suggest,
since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is
prudent to look
over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is
not often used.
The only way to clean the fuel filters is
ultrasonically.
For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an
engineering shop to make
up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional
automotive Schraeder
valve.
I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need
is a separate
supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure
electric pump, going
into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate
oil around the
engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone
makes a kit as
such.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?Yak-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Gill shutters and powder coating |
Good Powder coating info: http://my.execpc.com/~davewrit/Powder.html
<http://my.execpc.com/~davewrit/Powder.html>Doug
On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 10:31 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> wrote:
> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Keith, the wood will go up in smoke.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of keithmckinley
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:28 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
>
> --> <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I have never had anything powder coated but understand the process
> involves some high temperatures for curing. I suspect this will be an
> issue for the wood core in the gill shutters. Does anyone have
> experience with this?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Keith McKinley
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> KFIT
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312635#312635
>
>
Message 18
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I live in the Northeast and have the EZ Heat pads on my oil tank, the engine sump,
and the oil cooler. They are all wired together to a single plug. It works
great.
Additionally I have timer on an outlet in my hangar to turn the system on
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312664#312664
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Gill shutters and powder coating |
Thanks guys!
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312665#312665
Message 20
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Hi everybody,
I just spoke with Todd the owner of EZHeat.
He has got a Yak52 and fortunately, he has designed specific heating pads
for the 52
Of course he does recommend heating pads on the oil tank and on the sump.
But also on the oil cooler if possible.
And also a good news, he has just designed a new pre oiling device.
Either you can ask him directly but as soon as I got some informations I can
send it to the list unless someone tells me that it is inapropriate.
Keep you in the loop Olivier.
Best regards
Didier
2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <
mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Honestly Olivier, I can't even begin to remember! I got those heating
> pads 10 years ago (and they still work by the way).
>
> I think I just went to their web site and talked to their sales agent.
> I have one that has two pads. In other words, it has one power cord,
> that controls TWO heating pads. Both of those are on the bottom of the
> oil tank itself.
>
> Then I have another one that is stuck on the lower sump.
>
> I do not have one on the oil cooler, as Dennis recommended, BUT .... I
> have a very unique oil cooler in my YAK-50. It has a thermostat bypass,
> so that when the weather is cold, the oil cooler is BY-PASSED.
>
> When it comes to these aircraft, I would listen carefully to anything
> Dennis recommends.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
> Savarese
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:07 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> You may also want to seriously consider a separate heat pad for the oil
> cooler. Highly recommended!
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Olivier Vigneron <mailto:ssssskippy@gmail.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> Hi Mark
>
> Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?
>
> Thanks
>
> Olivier
>
>
> 2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil
> with a heating
> "element". There are all kinds of articles on that
> issue discussing
> moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other
> "issues". The old
> "stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was
> apparently not the best
> way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc
> mentioned
> http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft
> operating in cold
> weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank
> simply by
> glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first
> of course, but
> mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up
> heating the whole
> metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They
> include a thermostat
> and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.
>
> I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of
> bush airplanes.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
> Of Jan Mevis
>
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:57 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows
> up, then you have
> a BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles
> everywhere into
> the oil.
>
>
> Only my 2 cents,
>
>
> Jan
>
>
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
> Of Didier
> Blouzard
> Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
>
> Richard,
>
> thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
>
> For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5
> fill.
>
> In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I
> will have to fill
> the plane with 100LL from time to time.
>
> But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs
> for tracking
> records every 20 hours.
>
> For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe
> and simple) is
> the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the
> good hoses and
> the work id done. I will try to do something that can
> heat the oil in
> the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the
> tank with a
> resistor...??
>
> Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
>
> Didier BLOUZARD
>
>
> 2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
>
>
> The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and
> the Russians say
> that no additional help from lead is needed.
>
>
> But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give
> it 100ll
> whenever you can.
>
>
> You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in
> the UK.
>
>
> It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat
> a thousand
> litres - and you do not need to put in nearly as much as
> they suggest,
> since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
>
>
> There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is
> prudent to look
> over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is
> not often used.
>
>
> The only way to clean the fuel filters is
> ultrasonically.
>
>
> For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an
> engineering shop to make
> up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional
> automotive Schraeder
> valve.
>
>
> I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need
> is a separate
> supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure
> electric pump, going
> into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate
> oil around the
> engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone
> makes a kit as
> such.
>
>
> Richard Goode Aerobatics
>
> Rhodds Farm
>
> Lyonshall
>
> Herefordshire
>
> HR5 3LW
>
> United Kingdom
>
>
> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
>
> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
>
> www.russianaeros.com
>
>
> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> --
> Didier BLOUZARD
> didier.blouzard@gmail.com
> 0624243672
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.
> com/Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
Message 21
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Hey, I noticed that farm equipment places have heating pads in all
shapes and sizes. Shockingly cheap, and apparently sourced the same as
the aviation ones.
I use a Harbor Fright (Halloween coming up) fan driven disc heater
with some HVAC items cobbled in such a way that it's funneled into the
left side of the cowl. I close the gills and usually plug the left
side with some foam. I have it mounted on an old tripod so it can be
properly positioned. Heats everything except the oil cooler, which
doesn't seem to b3 a problem with the Phillips 25-60. I live near
Buffalo, NY. I'll try to post a picture sometime.
On Sep 16, 2010, at 1:29 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Honestly Olivier, I can't even begin to remember! I got those heating
> pads 10 years ago (and they still work by the way).
>
> I think I just went to their web site and talked to their sales agent.
> I have one that has two pads. In other words, it has one power cord,
> that controls TWO heating pads. Both of those are on the bottom of
> the
> oil tank itself.
>
> Then I have another one that is stuck on the lower sump.
>
> I do not have one on the oil cooler, as Dennis recommended, BUT .... I
> have a very unique oil cooler in my YAK-50. It has a thermostat
> bypass,
> so that when the weather is cold, the oil cooler is BY-PASSED.
>
> When it comes to these aircraft, I would listen carefully to anything
> Dennis recommends.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
> Savarese
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:07 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> You may also want to seriously consider a separate heat pad for the
> oil
> cooler. Highly recommended!
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Olivier Vigneron <mailto:ssssskippy@gmail.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> Hi Mark
>
> Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?
>
> Thanks
>
> Olivier
>
>
> 2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
>
> In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil
> with a heating
> "element". There are all kinds of articles on that
> issue discussing
> moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other
> "issues". The old
> "stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was
> apparently not the best
> way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc
> mentioned
> http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft
> operating in cold
> weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank
> simply by
> glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first
> of course, but
> mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up
> heating the whole
> metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They
> include a thermostat
> and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.
>
> I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of
> bush airplanes.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
> Of Jan Mevis
>
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:57 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
> Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows
> up, then you have
> a BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles
> everywhere into
> the oil.
>
>
>
> Only my 2 cents,
>
>
>
> Jan
>
>
>
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
> Of Didier
> Blouzard
> Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>
>
>
> Richard,
>
> thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
>
> For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5
> fill.
>
> In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I
> will have to fill
> the plane with 100LL from time to time.
>
> But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs
> for tracking
> records every 20 hours.
>
> For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe
> and simple) is
> the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the
> good hoses and
> the work id done. I will try to do something that can
> heat the oil in
> the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the
> tank with a
> resistor...??
>
> Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
>
> Didier BLOUZARD
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
>
>
>
> The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and
> the Russians say
> that no additional help from lead is needed.
>
>
>
> But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give
> it 100ll
> whenever you can.
>
>
>
> You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in
> the UK.
>
>
>
> It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat
> a thousand
> litres - and you do not need to put in nearly as much as
> they suggest,
> since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
>
>
>
> There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is
> prudent to look
> over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is
> not often used.
>
>
>
> The only way to clean the fuel filters is
> ultrasonically.
>
>
>
> For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an
> engineering shop to make
> up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional
> automotive Schraeder
> valve.
>
>
>
> I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need
> is a separate
> supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure
> electric pump, going
> into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate
> oil around the
> engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone
> makes a kit as
> such.
>
>
>
> Richard Goode Aerobatics
>
> Rhodds Farm
>
> Lyonshall
>
> Herefordshire
>
> HR5 3LW
>
> United Kingdom
>
>
>
> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
>
> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
>
> www.russianaeros.com
>
>
>
>
>
> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Didier BLOUZARD
> didier.blouzard@gmail.com
> 0624243672
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics
> .
> com/Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Oil shut-off valve |
I set the brake when I'm pulling through. At least, it helps the
rolling forward factor.
On Sep 16, 2010, at 10:09 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> Before starting the engine after some rather extensive work, a good
> friend of mine was pulling the prop through when the engine
> started. The prop struck him taking a good chunk out of the blade
> as well as his knee and leg. The gent fell to the ground and the
> aircraft started rolling forward. I was standing there and actually
> saw all this happen and ran out and stopped the aircraft from
> moving. After he was pulled away by other folks at the airport I
> went to the cockpit and tried to shut down the engine. Both MAGS
> were already OFF. I then went to pull the fuel shut-off handle but
> it was actually tied to another handle marked OIL SHUT OFF. So by
> pulling the fuel handle, I would also be shutting off the oil. Not
> exactly the same design Vic has, but the same results.
>
> We all tend to think of things in our aircraft always working the
> way they should. Obviously sometimes they don't. Our M-14's are
> shut off by turning off the mags. The mags are turned off by
> providing a GROUND to a "P" lead. All that needs to happen is for
> one of those wires to break and the engine will not be able to be
> shut down by the normal method. Switch failure, wire failure,
> whatever. The engine will not shut off. This leaves the Emergency
> Fuel Shut-Off as the only real method of securing the engine.
> However, when you pull this handle, the engine does not immediately
> shut off, it runs for awhile. If you have your oil shut-off valve
> connected so that it also shuts off with the Emergency Fuel Handle,
> then you will be running your engine without oil.
>
> To finish my particular story, I did just that. I pulled the shut-
> off handle out, the engine kept running and I then watched the oil
> pressure dropping to zero. I shoved the handle back in because I
> just could not stand to ruin an engine. Especially THIS engine.
>
> After chocking the airplane, I manually grounded the left mag which
> killed the engine. The "P" lead grounding wire was open to the
> switch.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
> P.s. Dennis, I do not believe in pulling the emergency fuel shut
> off handle after every flight. I personally believe that the
> pressure carb should have fuel to it at all times to help prevent
> diaphragms from drying out. However, I do believe it testing it
> every once in awhile! :-)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:23 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
> I have also heard varying opinions about whether or not the fuel
> valve should be shut off regularly. Opinions?
>
> On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:20 AM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
>
>
>
> Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil
> shut of kit for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a
> microswitch which is wired to the air start button/air start valve.
> If the valve is closed, the engine can not be started because the
> microswitch remains engaged by the lever on the shut off valve. http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php
> Slide down the page to the 6th item.
> Dennis
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Vic <mailto:vicmolnar@aol.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
>
> Hello,
> to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which
> works great on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I
> added a ball valve into the feed hose to the oil pump on the right
> side of the fire wall where the hose forms a U-shape. The lever on
> the ball valve is connected to the lever of the petrol tap on the
> left side via push-pull rod, so when you close the petrol after
> engine shut-down, you shut the oil at the same time. No more need to
> drain the crank case before start. You just cannot forget to turn on
> the oil as you cannot miss that petrol has to be opened in the
> cockpit, as both valves are connected by pushrod. I added a safety
> spring to the ball valve, pulling in the "open"position, in case,
> something should break.
> There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a
> straight pushrod between both valves but it can be done. I dont
> know if this goes for 52s as well. Maybe there is need for an
> intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear obstacles, but the
> system seems reasonably failsafe to me.
>
> Vic
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
>
>
> p; Navigator Photoshare, and href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ">http://www.matronics========================<; via the Web
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _p; generous bsp; href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ">http://www.matronics.com/c================
>
>
>
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Oil shut-off valve |
No argument there.... but maybe not as a part of every shut down.
On Sep 16, 2010, at 10:20 AM, Roger Kemp M.D. wrote:
> I concur with the idea that it needs to be tested occasionally. I
> had one that the cable was binding up on so it would not completely
> close the valve so obviously the engine would not shut off when the
> T handle was pulled.
> Doc
>
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 8:23 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
> I have also heard varying opinions about whether or not the fuel
> valve should be shut off regularly. Opinions?
>
> On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:20 AM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
>
>
> Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil shut
> of kit for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a microswitch
> which is wired to the air start button/air start valve. If the
> valve is closed, the engine can not be started because the
> microswitch remains engaged by the lever on the shut off valve.
http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php
> Slide down the page to the 6th item.
> Dennis
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Vic
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
>
> Hello,
> to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which
> works great on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I
> added a ball valve into the feed hose to the oil pump on the right
> side of the fire wall where the hose forms a U-shape. The lever on
> the ball valve is connected to the lever of the petrol tap on the
> left side via push-pull rod, so when you close the petrol after
> engine shut-down, you shut the oil at the same time. No more need to
> drain the crank case before start. You just cannot forget to turn on
> the oil as you cannot miss that petrol has to be opened in the
> cockpit, as both valves are connected by pushrod. I added a safety
> spring to the ball valve, pulling in the "open"position, in case,
> something should break.
> There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a
> straight pushrod between both valves but it can be done. I don=C2=B4t
> know if this goes for 52s as well. Maybe there is need for an
> intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear obstacles, but the
> system seems reasonably failsafe to me.
>
> Vic
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
>
>
> p; Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ">http://www.matronics=================
=======<; via the Web
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _p; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ">http://www.matronics.com/c===============
=
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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>
Message 24
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yeahh would be interested in seeing.
Many thanks if you can post a pic
regards
Didier
2010/9/16 Eric Wobschall <eric@buffaloskyline.com>
>
> Hey, I noticed that farm equipment places have heating pads in all shapes
> and sizes. Shockingly cheap, and apparently sourced the same as the aviation
> ones.
>
> I use a Harbor Fright (Halloween coming up) fan driven disc heater with
> some HVAC items cobbled in such a way that it's funneled into the left side
> of the cowl. I close the gills and usually plug the left side with some
> foam. I have it mounted on an old tripod so it can be properly positioned.
> Heats everything except the oil cooler, which doesn't seem to b3 a problem
> with the Phillips 25-60. I live near Buffalo, NY. I'll try to post a picture
> sometime.
>
>
> On Sep 16, 2010, at 1:29 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
> MALS-14 64E wrote:
>
>> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>> Honestly Olivier, I can't even begin to remember! I got those heating
>> pads 10 years ago (and they still work by the way).
>>
>> I think I just went to their web site and talked to their sales agent.
>> I have one that has two pads. In other words, it has one power cord,
>> that controls TWO heating pads. Both of those are on the bottom of the
>> oil tank itself.
>>
>> Then I have another one that is stuck on the lower sump.
>>
>> I do not have one on the oil cooler, as Dennis recommended, BUT .... I
>> have a very unique oil cooler in my YAK-50. It has a thermostat bypass,
>> so that when the weather is cold, the oil cooler is BY-PASSED.
>>
>> When it comes to these aircraft, I would listen carefully to anything
>> Dennis recommends.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
>> Savarese
>> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:07 PM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>>
>> You may also want to seriously consider a separate heat pad for the oil
>> cooler. Highly recommended!
>> Dennis
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Olivier Vigneron <mailto:ssssskippy@gmail.com>
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:57 AM
>> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>>
>> Hi Mark
>>
>> Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Olivier
>>
>>
>> 2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
>> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>>
>> Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>>
>>
>> In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil
>> with a heating
>> "element". There are all kinds of articles on that
>> issue discussing
>> moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other
>> "issues". The old
>> "stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was
>> apparently not the best
>> way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc
>> mentioned
>> http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft
>> operating in cold
>> weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank
>> simply by
>> glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first
>> of course, but
>> mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up
>> heating the whole
>> metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They
>> include a thermostat
>> and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.
>>
>> I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of
>> bush airplanes.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
>> Of Jan Mevis
>>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:57 AM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: 18T issues
>>
>> Don't put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows
>> up, then you have
>> a BIG problem, because you'll scatter small particles
>> everywhere into
>> the oil.
>>
>>
>>
>> Only my 2 cents,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jan
>>
>>
>>
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
>> Of Didier
>> Blouzard
>> Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 18T issues
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard,
>>
>> thanks so much for your very interesting answer.
>>
>> For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5
>> fill.
>>
>> In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I
>> will have to fill
>> the plane with 100LL from time to time.
>>
>> But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs
>> for tracking
>> records every 20 hours.
>>
>> For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe
>> and simple) is
>> the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the
>> good hoses and
>> the work id done. I will try to do something that can
>> heat the oil in
>> the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the
>> tank with a
>> resistor...??
>>
>> Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer
>>
>> Didier BLOUZARD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
>>
>>
>>
>> The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and
>> the Russians say
>> that no additional help from lead is needed.
>>
>>
>>
>> But, I see no harm in adding lead - a good idea to give
>> it 100ll
>> whenever you can.
>>
>>
>>
>> You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in
>> the UK.
>>
>>
>>
>> It is not that expensive - 130 Euro for enough to treat
>> a thousand
>> litres - and you do not need to put in nearly as much as
>> they suggest,
>> since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.
>>
>>
>>
>> There is no 50-hour check - but my own view is it is
>> prudent to look
>> over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is
>> not often used.
>>
>>
>>
>> The only way to clean the fuel filters is
>> ultrasonically.
>>
>>
>>
>> For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an
>> engineering shop to make
>> up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional
>> automotive Schraeder
>> valve.
>>
>>
>>
>> I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need
>> is a separate
>> supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure
>> electric pump, going
>> into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate
>> oil around the
>> engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone
>> makes a kit as
>> such.
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard Goode Aerobatics
>>
>> Rhodds Farm
>>
>> Lyonshall
>>
>> Herefordshire
>>
>> HR5 3LW
>>
>> United Kingdom
>>
>>
>>
>> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
>>
>> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
>>
>> www.russianaeros.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Didier BLOUZARD
>> didier.blouzard@gmail.com
>> 0624243672
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.
>> com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard@gmail.com
0624243672
Message 25
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| Subject: | Gill shutters and powder coating |
Keith,
It may not be a problem for the shutters. I believe powder coating only
requires 340 degree to cure.
Gill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of keithmckinley
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 8:28 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
Hello everyone,
I have never had anything powder coated but understand the process involves
some high temperatures for curing. I suspect this will be an issue for the
wood core in the gill shutters. Does anyone have experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Keith McKinley
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312635#312635
Message 26
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
Jesus.
Don't f--k with things if they aren't broke.
I'll stay with my stock Yak55 and just pull a lot of blades. If I
get too old or infirm to pull blades, it's time to sell her.
Hal
YAK55
N355YK
At 07:09 AM 9/16/2010, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
>Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
>Before starting the engine after some rather extensive work, a good
>friend of mine was pulling the prop through when the engine
>started. The prop struck him taking a good chunk out of the blade
>as well as his knee and leg. The gent fell to the ground and the
>aircraft started rolling forward. I was standing there and actually
>saw all this happen and ran out and stopped the aircraft from
>moving. After he was pulled away by other folks at the airport I
>went to the cockpit and tried to shut down the engine. Both MAGS
>were already OFF. I then went to pull the fuel shut-off handle but
>it was actually tied to another handle marked OIL SHUT OFF. So by
>pulling the fuel handle, I would also be shutting off the oil. Not
>exactly the same design Vic has, but the same results.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
Jesus.
Don't f--k with things if they aren't broke.
I'll stay with my stock Yak55 and just pull a lot of blades. If I
get too old or infirm to pull blades, it's time to sell her.
Hal
YAK55
N355YK
At 07:09 AM 9/16/2010, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
>Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
>Before starting the engine after some rather extensive work, a good
>friend of mine was pulling the prop through when the engine
>started. The prop struck him taking a good chunk out of the blade
>as well as his knee and leg. The gent fell to the ground and the
>aircraft started rolling forward. I was standing there and actually
>saw all this happen and ran out and stopped the aircraft from
>moving. After he was pulled away by other folks at the airport I
>went to the cockpit and tried to shut down the engine. Both MAGS
>were already OFF. I then went to pull the fuel shut-off handle but
>it was actually tied to another handle marked OIL SHUT OFF. So by
>pulling the fuel handle, I would also be shutting off the oil. Not
>exactly the same design Vic has, but the same results.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Gill shutters and powder coating |
You are really going to hate that when that happens. :^))
doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G
CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 12:32 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Keith, the wood will go up in smoke.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of keithmckinley
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:28 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
--> <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
Hello everyone,
I have never had anything powder coated but understand the process
involves some high temperatures for curing. I suspect this will be an
issue for the wood core in the gill shutters. Does anyone have
experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Keith McKinley
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312635#312635
Message 29
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| Subject: | Starting Problems Yak 52 |
I am having trouble starting my Yak 52. I originally had problems with the
air starter=2C and we had to prop start the engine=2C usually on second or
third pull. . Now that the starter is fixed=2C we seem to be having some fu
el problems. I am using up all of the air in the bottle and still no start.
Eventually we can get a pull start. I have installed the oil drain kit=2C
and after turning the engine over=2C fuel is accumulating in the manifold.
A large amount of fuel runs out of the drain when opened.. This is what we
are seeing.
Pressurising the fuel system with primer to the left=2C about 10 strokes=2C
to get pressure registering. However=2C the fuel pressure drops off almost
immediately=2C unlike our other Yak.
About 5 strokes to the right to prime the cylinders=2C sometimes pulling th
e prop a blade between strokes=2C all as per recommended procedure. Ambient
air temp about 18C=2C and we are careful to not overprime.
Using the air starter=2C after about 10 rotations and with mags on both it
still won=92t start. On checking the oil drain cock=2C fuel runs out=2C ma
ybe 50 to 100 mls. We are basically repeating that until running out of air
=2C and then topping up with external AIR bottle.
When we can eventually get it going by pull start=2C it runs and flies well
. It starts using the air starter=2C (reluctantly) when warm. On shutdown
=2C and on opening the drain cock=2C again fuel comes out.
It seems we are flooding the engine and we suspect it may be something with
in the carburettor that is sticking. Thoughts anyone? We have the carburett
or cutaway poster=2C and the M14p Maint manual to guide us=2C but the mecha
nic is reluctant to open the carbie without knowing that this is the most l
ikely cause=2C and if there is a simple fix to clean a possibly sticky need
le valve=2C if that is what it could be?
If anyone has had similar problems=2C you help is much appreciated
Cheers
Bill Lang
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