Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:04 AM - Re: Starting Problems Yak 52 (Eric Wobschall)
2. 01:21 AM - Re: CJ TOOL SET & EXHAUST VALVES NEEDED (Nanchang CJ6)
3. 04:47 AM - Re: Starting Problems Yak 52 (A. Dennis Savarese)
4. 06:51 AM - Re: Starting Problems Yak 52 (jblake207@comcast.net)
5. 08:12 AM - Yak-52 (Richard Goode)
6. 08:41 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Roger Kemp M.D.)
7. 09:05 AM - Re: Starting Problems Yak 52 (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
8. 09:16 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
9. 09:21 AM - Re: Gill shutters and powder coating (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
10. 09:29 AM - Re: Gill shutters and powder coating (Jon Boede)
11. 11:18 AM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Gill Gutierrez)
12. 03:47 PM - CJ6 attitude indicator (Okanogan Lew)
13. 04:30 PM - Re: Starting Problems Yak 52 (Bill Lang)
14. 04:44 PM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Roger Kemp M.D.)
15. 05:09 PM - Re: Oil shut-off valve (Vic)
16. 05:32 PM - Buzzer coil / Shower of sparks (Vic)
17. 10:04 PM - Re: CJ6 remote oil filter kits (barryhancock)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Starting Problems Yak 52 |
Sounds like the shower of sparks or the wire from it to the left
magneto to me. Has that part been checked?
On Sep 17, 2010, at 2:01 AM, Bill Lang wrote:
> I am having trouble starting my Yak 52. I originally had problems
> with the air starter, and we had to prop start the engine, usually
> on second or third pull. . Now that the starter is fixed, we seem to
> be having some fuel problems. I am using up all of the air in the
> bottle and still no start. Eventually we can get a pull start. I
> have installed the oil drain kit, and after turning the engine over,
> fuel is accumulating in the manifold. A large amount of fuel runs
> out of the drain when opened.. This is what we are seeing.
>
> Pressurising the fuel system with primer to the left, about 10
> strokes, to get pressure registering. However, the fuel pressure
> drops off almost immediately, unlike our other Yak.
>
> About 5 strokes to the right to prime the cylinders, sometimes
> pulling the prop a blade between strokes, all as per recommended
> procedure. Ambient air temp about 18C, and we are careful to not
> overprime.
>
> Using the air starter, after about 10 rotations and with mags on
> both it still won=92t start. On checking the oil drain cock, fuel
> runs out, maybe 50 to 100 mls. We are basically repeating that until
> running out of air, and then topping up with external AIR bottle.
>
> When we can eventually get it going by pull start, it runs and flies
> well. It starts using the air starter, (reluctantly) when warm. On
> shutdown, and on opening the drain cock, again fuel comes out.
>
> It seems we are flooding the engine and we suspect it may be
> something within the carburettor that is sticking. Thoughts anyone?
> We have the carburettor cutaway poster, and the M14p Maint manual to
> guide us, but the mechanic is reluctant to open the carbie without
> knowing that this is the most likely cause, and if there is a simple
> fix to clean a possibly sticky needle valve, if that is what it
> could be?
>
> If anyone has had similar problems, you help is much appreciated
>
> Cheers
>
> Bill Lang
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: CJ TOOL SET & EXHAUST VALVES NEEDED |
Hi Barrington Miles
Let's talk about the details by e-mails.
My e-mail address is lcdzkj@live.cn
And about yours?
Wait for your reply.
Sarah
--------
Sarah's E-mail:lcdzkj@live.cn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312723#312723
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Starting Problems Yak 52 |
Bill,
You wrote "Using the air starter, after about 10 rotations and with mags
on both it still won=92t start." Is this a Yak 52TW or standard Yak?
Do you know if you have M9F mags or the M9-35 centrifugal advance mags.
If it is a TW, then yes it should be started with the mags on because
the PF engine has M9-35 mags. For the standard Yak 52/M14 with M9F
mags, the proper starting procedure is to start the engine with the mags
OFF. Once the engine fires with the starting coil, THEN switch the mags
to the on position. But it has to fire on the starting coil first. If
the starting coil (also called the "shower of sparks") does not fire the
engine within the first or second blade after you press the start
button, don't keep holding the start button. All you're doing is
wasting air. It is not like an electric start. While it is rotating
though, assuming it doesn't fire with the shower of sparks, you can
switch the mags from the OFF position to BOTH quickly. Sometimes the
engine will start. The key is getting the rotation before you switch to
BOTH. But with a standard Yak 52/M14 engine with M9F mags, don't try to
start it with the mags in BOTH. It could easily kick back or attempt to
run backwards. Then you might be changing the air compressor sheer
coupling....another 6 hours of work.
Have you checked the spark from the starting coil? If not, as Eric
said, a bad starting coil or wire from the starting coil to the left mag
cap could also be contributing to the problem.
Contact me off-list if you would like for me to describe a procedure for
checking the starting coil/wire.
Dennis
dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Lang
To: Yak List
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 1:01 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Starting Problems Yak 52
I am having trouble starting my Yak 52. I originally had problems with
the air starter, and we had to prop start the engine, usually on second
or third pull. . Now that the starter is fixed, we seem to be having
some fuel problems. I am using up all of the air in the bottle and still
no start. Eventually we can get a pull start. I have installed the oil
drain kit, and after turning the engine over, fuel is accumulating in
the manifold. A large amount of fuel runs out of the drain when opened..
This is what we are seeing.
Pressurising the fuel system with primer to the left, about 10
strokes, to get pressure registering. However, the fuel pressure drops
off almost immediately, unlike our other Yak.
About 5 strokes to the right to prime the cylinders, sometimes pulling
the prop a blade between strokes, all as per recommended procedure.
Ambient air temp about 18C, and we are careful to not overprime.
Using the air starter, after about 10 rotations and with mags on both
it still won=92t start. On checking the oil drain cock, fuel runs out,
maybe 50 to 100 mls. We are basically repeating that until running out
of air, and then topping up with external AIR bottle.
When we can eventually get it going by pull start, it runs and flies
well. It starts using the air starter, (reluctantly) when warm. On
shutdown, and on opening the drain cock, again fuel comes out.
It seems we are flooding the engine and we suspect it may be something
within the carburettor that is sticking. Thoughts anyone? We have the
carburettor cutaway poster, and the M14p Maint manual to guide us, but
the mechanic is reluctant to open the carbie without knowing that this
is the most likely cause, and if there is a simple fix to clean a
possibly sticky needle valve, if that is what it could be?
If anyone has had similar problems, you help is much appreciated
Cheers
Bill Lang
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Starting Problems Yak 52 |
Dennis,
=C2-
HELP!!=C2- How do I remove my name from the YAK List?=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-
Thanks,
Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 6:44:11 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Starting Problems Yak 52
Bill,
You wrote "Using the air starter, after about 10 rotations and with mags on
both it still won=99t start."=C2- Is this a Yak 52TW or standard Y
ak?=C2- Do you know if you have M9F mags or the M9-35 centrifugal advance
mags.=C2- If it is a TW, then yes it should be started with the mags on
because the PF engine has M9-35 mags.=C2- For the standard Yak 52/M14 wit
h M9F mags, the=C2-proper starting procedure=C2-is=C2-to start the en
gine with the mags OFF.=C2- Once the engine fires with the starting coil,
THEN switch the mags to the=C2-on position.=C2- But it has to fire on
the starting coil first.=C2- If the starting coil (also called the "showe
r of sparks") does not fire the engine within the first or second blade aft
er you press the start button, don't keep holding the start button.=C2- A
ll you're doing is wasting air.=C2- It is not like an electric start.=C2
- While it is rotating though, assuming it doesn't fire with the shower o
f sparks, you can switch the mags from the OFF position to BOTH quickly.=C2
- Sometimes the engine will start.=C2- The key is getting the rotation
before you switch to BOTH.=C2- But with a standard Yak 52/M14 engine with
M9F mags, don't try to start it with the mags in BOTH.=C2- It could easi
ly kick back or attempt to run backwards.=C2- Then you might be changing
the air compressor sheer coupling....another 6 hours of work.
Have you checked the spark from the starting coil?=C2- If not, as Eric sa
id, a bad starting coil or wire from the starting coil to the left mag cap
could also be contributing to the problem.
Contact me off-list if you would like for me to describe a procedure for ch
ecking the starting coil/wire.
Dennis
dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net .
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Lang
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 1:01 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Starting Problems Yak 52
I am having trouble starting my Yak 52. I originally had problems with the
air starter, and we had to prop start the engine, usually on second or thir
d pull. . Now that the starter is fixed, we seem to be having some fuel pro
blems. I am using up all of the air in the bottle and still no start. Event
ually we can get a pull start. I have installed the oil drain kit, and afte
r turning the engine over, fuel is accumulating in the manifold. A large am
ount of fuel runs out of the drain when opened.. This is what we are seeing
.
Pressurising the fuel system with primer to the left, about 10 strokes, to
get pressure registering. However, the fuel pressure drops off almost immed
iately, unlike our other Yak.
About 5 strokes to the right to prime the cylinders, sometimes pulling the
prop a blade between strokes, all as per recommended procedure. Ambient air
temp about 18C, and we are careful to not overprime.
Using the air starter, after about 10 rotations and with mags on both it st
ill =C2- won=99t start. On checking the oil drain cock, fuel runs o
ut, maybe 50 to 100 mls. We are basically repeating that until running out
of air, and then topping up with external AIR bottle.
When we can eventually get it going by pull start, it runs and flies well.
It starts using the air starter, (reluctantly) when warm. On shutdown, and
on opening the drain cock, again fuel comes out.
It seems we are flooding the engine and we suspect it may be something with
in the carburettor that is sticking. Thoughts anyone? We have the carburett
or cutaway poster, and the M14p Maint manual to guide us, but the mechanic
is reluctant to open the carbie without knowing that this is the most likel
y cause, and if there is a simple fix to clean a possibly sticky needle val
ve, if that is what it could be?
If anyone has had similar problems, you help is much appreciated
Cheers
Bill Lang href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.m
atronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http:/
/forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:/
=================
==
Message 5
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Starting problems Yak-52
In reply to Bill Lang, a number of obvious and also concerning issues:
=D8 Importantly the M14P should not be started with the magnetos on.
It
should only be started on booster coil, and then switched over to the
magnetos when it starts. You can cause serious damage to the engine
because
of the amount of static advance on the magnetos.
=D8 If that amount of fuel is coming out of the manifold drains, the
engine
is dramatically over-primed, and I suspect that most of the oil will be
washed away from the cylinders!
=D8 The air start is not a substitute for an electric starting motor.
By
its nature, as the engine turns the mixture will dramatically change.
So if
it does not start within one and a half revolutions it will not start.
=D8 Assuming the electrical side is good, the mixture is either too
rich or
too weak. If too weak (clearly not in this case) it will not fire. If
too
rich it will typically kick-back.
=D8 The over-priming is not caused by the carburettor. If the
carburettor is
leaking, then, since it is below the engine, excess fuel will fall into
the
engine cowling ' and in itself is a major fire hazard in these sorts
of
quantities.
=D8 The sorts of over-priming that comes from the super-charger, is
caused by
excessive hand-priming.
=D8 The carburettor is very complex, and unless you know what you are
doing
DO NOT touch it.
=D8 Do you not have an engine manual ' there is a logical procedure
for this
within the manual?
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
<http://www.russianaeros.com> www.russianaeros.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
Hey the simple draining the sump into to a 5 gallon bucket after the day's
flying works too. Now it is a bitch when the hose gets knocked off the sump
drain port just after turning opening it though! Shit happens and that is a
mess I can clean up.
Oil on the floor is better than overflow oil in the lower cylinder heads to
cause a hydraulic lock.
Remember, fluid in a U shaped capillary tube always seeks equilibrium.
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Halverson
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 7:19 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
Jesus.
Don't f--k with things if they aren't broke.
I'll stay with my stock Yak55 and just pull a lot of blades. If I
get too old or infirm to pull blades, it's time to sell her.
Hal
YAK55
N355YK
At 07:09 AM 9/16/2010, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
>Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
>Before starting the engine after some rather extensive work, a good
>friend of mine was pulling the prop through when the engine
>started. The prop struck him taking a good chunk out of the blade
>as well as his knee and leg. The gent fell to the ground and the
>aircraft started rolling forward. I was standing there and actually
>saw all this happen and ran out and stopped the aircraft from
>moving. After he was pulled away by other folks at the airport I
>went to the cockpit and tried to shut down the engine. Both MAGS
>were already OFF. I then went to pull the fuel shut-off handle but
>it was actually tied to another handle marked OIL SHUT OFF. So by
>pulling the fuel handle, I would also be shutting off the oil. Not
>exactly the same design Vic has, but the same results.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Starting Problems Yak 52 |
It is not unusual after giving it FIVE strokes of prime, to have the
excess fuel run out of your intake drain outlet. It is very hard to
over-prime the engine IF, and I repeat IF, you have an intake drain kit
installed and the intake drain is clear of oil. In fact, that is one of
the thing I check on starting. When I give it a few strokes of prime, I
EXPECT to see fuel coming out of the intake drain outlet. If I don't,
then there is probably a lot of oil in there and I need to rethink
starting the engine.
Question, do you have the automotive plug conversion? If so, when was
the last time you changed the plugs and what is the GAP setting? If you
are using automotive plugs, make sure the gap is about .018 to .020
Agreed that the BOOST COIL (shower of sparks... My favorite discussion
:-) is highly suspect. HIGHLY SUSPECT. If the engine RUNS ... Then
you probably do NOT have a pressure carb problem. Especially if you can
manually prop the engine.
Don't worry about system pressure falling to zero ... Mine always has.
Never an issue.
Fuel coming out of the INTAKE DRAIN after the engine runs means that you
did not have it open AS YOU WERE PRIMING BEFORE START, and the excess
fuel collected in the intake drain hoses and remained there for the
whole time. This is NORMAL. Mine does the exact same thing. The way
to avoid that is to have the INTAKE DRAIN OUTLET PETCOCK OPEN as you are
priming. Prime it, and then pull the engine through. You will get fuel
coming out of the intake drain, as I have said. This is a very good
method to AVOID over-priming. It becomes almost impossible to do,
because the excess fuel has no place to collect, and just drains out the
bottom. I have been doing it that way for 10 years.
You should not start the engine with the MAGS ON BOTH using the air
starter. Yes, it can work, but it can also cause some damage if you
happen to get unlucky. Hand propping, .... Should also be done with the
shower of sparks, but it seems clear that IT IS NOT WORKING.
A good mech should be able to tell you how to check that. But I have
had the same problems and it can be a real pain in the butt to
troubleshoot. There are some articles written on how you can ADJUST the
shower of sparks vibrator coil POINTS to make it work better. If all
else fails, check the wire from it to the mag, and then buy a new shower
of sparks unit from Doug Sapp. The CJ-6A and M-14's units are
IDENTICAL.
Turn off the main air valve... Run the flaps up and down to drain out
any residual air. Now push the start button and listen for the BUZZ.
How loud is it? A safe test... The shower of sparks goes to the mag on
the left which on my 50 is the front plugs. Pull all the front plugs.
Now the engine is safe. Take one of the plug wires and hold it about
1/4 inch from a ground. Push the starter button and rotate the prop
manually until it gets to that wire and LOOK AT THE SPARK! You can also
do this by leaving the wire connected to the plug and then holding the
plug case to ground and then looking at the actual spark on the spark
plug itself. See how strong it is. If it is not really actively
BRIGHT, then you have found the problem. You can adjust the booster
coil contacts and try to make the spark stronger.
Odd are about 80% that this is your problem. Not the carb.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:02
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Starting Problems Yak 52
Sounds like the shower of sparks or the wire from it to the left magneto
to me. Has that part been checked?
On Sep 17, 2010, at 2:01 AM, Bill Lang wrote:
I am having trouble starting my Yak 52. I originally had
problems with the air starter, and we had to prop start the engine,
usually on second or third pull. . Now that the starter is fixed, we
seem to be having some fuel problems. I am using up all of the air in
the bottle and still no start. Eventually we can get a pull start. I
have installed the oil drain kit, and after turning the engine over,
fuel is accumulating in the manifold. A large amount of fuel runs out of
the drain when opened.. This is what we are seeing.
Pressurising the fuel system with primer to the left, about 10
strokes, to get pressure registering. However, the fuel pressure drops
off almost immediately, unlike our other Yak.
About 5 strokes to the right to prime the cylinders, sometimes
pulling the prop a blade between strokes, all as per recommended
procedure. Ambient air temp about 18C, and we are careful to not
overprime.
Using the air starter, after about 10 rotations and with mags on
both it still won't start. On checking the oil drain cock, fuel runs
out, maybe 50 to 100 mls. We are basically repeating that until running
out of air, and then topping up with external AIR bottle.
When we can eventually get it going by pull start, it runs and
flies well. It starts using the air starter, (reluctantly) when warm. On
shutdown, and on opening the drain cock, again fuel comes out.
It seems we are flooding the engine and we suspect it may be
something within the carburettor that is sticking. Thoughts anyone? We
have the carburettor cutaway poster, and the M14p Maint manual to guide
us, but the mechanic is reluctant to open the carbie without knowing
that this is the most likely cause, and if there is a simple fix to
clean a possibly sticky needle valve, if that is what it could be?
If anyone has had similar problems, you help is much appreciated
Cheers
Bill Lang
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?Yak-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
Message 8
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
Sukhoi's don't have a parking brake. Neither does my 50. :-) But I have toe
hyd brakes on my 50 with Cleveland wheels and brakes.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 17:07
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
I set the brake when I'm pulling through. At least, it helps the rolling forward
factor.
On Sep 16, 2010, at 10:09 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> Before starting the engine after some rather extensive work, a good
> friend of mine was pulling the prop through when the engine
> started. The prop struck him taking a good chunk out of the blade
> as well as his knee and leg. The gent fell to the ground and the
> aircraft started rolling forward. I was standing there and actually
> saw all this happen and ran out and stopped the aircraft from
> moving. After he was pulled away by other folks at the airport I
> went to the cockpit and tried to shut down the engine. Both MAGS
> were already OFF. I then went to pull the fuel shut-off handle but
> it was actually tied to another handle marked OIL SHUT OFF. So by
> pulling the fuel handle, I would also be shutting off the oil. Not
> exactly the same design Vic has, but the same results.
>
> We all tend to think of things in our aircraft always working the
> way they should. Obviously sometimes they don't. Our M-14's are
> shut off by turning off the mags. The mags are turned off by
> providing a GROUND to a "P" lead. All that needs to happen is for
> one of those wires to break and the engine will not be able to be
> shut down by the normal method. Switch failure, wire failure,
> whatever. The engine will not shut off. This leaves the Emergency
> Fuel Shut-Off as the only real method of securing the engine.
> However, when you pull this handle, the engine does not immediately
> shut off, it runs for awhile. If you have your oil shut-off valve
> connected so that it also shuts off with the Emergency Fuel Handle,
> then you will be running your engine without oil.
>
> To finish my particular story, I did just that. I pulled the shut-
> off handle out, the engine kept running and I then watched the oil
> pressure dropping to zero. I shoved the handle back in because I
> just could not stand to ruin an engine. Especially THIS engine.
>
> After chocking the airplane, I manually grounded the left mag which
> killed the engine. The "P" lead grounding wire was open to the
> switch.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
> P.s. Dennis, I do not believe in pulling the emergency fuel shut
> off handle after every flight. I personally believe that the
> pressure carb should have fuel to it at all times to help prevent
> diaphragms from drying out. However, I do believe it testing it
> every once in awhile! :-)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:23 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
> I have also heard varying opinions about whether or not the fuel
> valve should be shut off regularly. Opinions?
>
> On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:20 AM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
>
>
>
> Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil
> shut of kit for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a
> microswitch which is wired to the air start button/air start valve.
> If the valve is closed, the engine can not be started because the
> microswitch remains engaged by the lever on the shut off valve. http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php
> Slide down the page to the 6th item.
> Dennis
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Vic <mailto:vicmolnar@aol.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
>
> Hello,
> to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution which
> works great on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I
> added a ball valve into the feed hose to the oil pump on the right
> side of the fire wall where the hose forms a U-shape. The lever on
> the ball valve is connected to the lever of the petrol tap on the
> left side via push-pull rod, so when you close the petrol after
> engine shut-down, you shut the oil at the same time. No more need to
> drain the crank case before start. You just cannot forget to turn on
> the oil as you cannot miss that petrol has to be opened in the
> cockpit, as both valves are connected by pushrod. I added a safety
> spring to the ball valve, pulling in the "open"position, in case,
> something should break.
> There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses for a
> straight pushrod between both valves but it can be done. I dont
> know if this goes for 52s as well. Maybe there is need for an
> intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear obstacles, but the
> system seems reasonably failsafe to me.
>
> Vic
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
>
>
> p; Navigator Photoshare, and href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ">http://www.matronics========================<; via the Web
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _p; generous bsp; href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ">http://www.matronics.com/c================
>
>
>
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Gill shutters and powder coating |
Ok, retract my last post.
Pure wood has a 572 F flash point.
If your powder coating facility can control temp carefully, I agree with
Gill.
Be curious how it turns out for you.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gill Gutierrez
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 17:56
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
Keith,
It may not be a problem for the shutters. I believe powder coating only
requires 340 degree to cure.
Gill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of keithmckinley
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 8:28 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
--> <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
Hello everyone,
I have never had anything powder coated but understand the process
involves some high temperatures for curing. I suspect this will be an
issue for the wood core in the gill shutters. Does anyone have
experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Keith McKinley
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312635#312635
Message 10
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| Subject: | Gill shutters and powder coating |
I have some old gill shutters that I would be happy to mail to someone if they
wanted to do an experiment.
----------------------------------------
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:18:11 -0400
> From: mark.bitterlich@navy.mil
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Ok, retract my last post.
>
> Pure wood has a 572 F flash point.
>
> If your powder coating facility can control temp carefully, I agree with
> Gill.
>
> Be curious how it turns out for you.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gill Gutierrez
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 17:56
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
>
>
> Keith,
>
> It may not be a problem for the shutters. I believe powder coating only
> requires 340 degree to cure.
>
> Gill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of keithmckinley
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 8:28 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Gill shutters and powder coating
>
> -->
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I have never had anything powder coated but understand the process
> involves some high temperatures for curing. I suspect this will be an
> issue for the wood core in the gill shutters. Does anyone have
> experience with this?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Keith McKinley
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> KFIT
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312635#312635
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
You are obviously not an ENGINEER. Their motto is: "If it is not broken,
take it apart and fix it."
Gill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Halverson
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:19 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
Jesus.
Don't f--k with things if they aren't broke.
I'll stay with my stock Yak55 and just pull a lot of blades. If I
get too old or infirm to pull blades, it's time to sell her.
Hal
YAK55
N355YK
At 07:09 AM 9/16/2010, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
>Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
>Before starting the engine after some rather extensive work, a good
>friend of mine was pulling the prop through when the engine
>started. The prop struck him taking a good chunk out of the blade
>as well as his knee and leg. The gent fell to the ground and the
>aircraft started rolling forward. I was standing there and actually
>saw all this happen and ran out and stopped the aircraft from
>moving. After he was pulled away by other folks at the airport I
>went to the cockpit and tried to shut down the engine. Both MAGS
>were already OFF. I then went to pull the fuel shut-off handle but
>it was actually tied to another handle marked OIL SHUT OFF. So by
>pulling the fuel handle, I would also be shutting off the oil. Not
>exactly the same design Vic has, but the same results.
Message 12
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| Subject: | CJ6 attitude indicator |
Hey Guys, the attitude indicator in the front pit of my CJ6 is tilting. I cleaned
the tube pins, per Doug's suggestion, & it did not help. Does anyone have
a unit that they want to sell or is there someone who can rebuild the Chinese
one? Thanks in advance for your help.
Paul Lewis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312800#312800
Message 13
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| Subject: | Starting Problems Yak 52 |
Thanks Mark=2C Richard=2C Dennis et al for your lengthy and considered repl
ies. Will look at shower of sparks Bill
Message 14
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| Subject: | Oil shut-off valve |
Clevelands and hydraulic toe brakes?!! Tell me more off list.
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G
CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:13 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Sukhoi's don't have a parking brake. Neither does my 50. :-) But I have
toe hyd brakes on my 50 with Cleveland wheels and brakes.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 17:07
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
I set the brake when I'm pulling through. At least, it helps the rolling
forward factor.
On Sep 16, 2010, at 10:09 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> Before starting the engine after some rather extensive work, a good
> friend of mine was pulling the prop through when the engine
> started. The prop struck him taking a good chunk out of the blade
> as well as his knee and leg. The gent fell to the ground and the
> aircraft started rolling forward. I was standing there and actually
> saw all this happen and ran out and stopped the aircraft from
> moving. After he was pulled away by other folks at the airport I
> went to the cockpit and tried to shut down the engine. Both MAGS
> were already OFF. I then went to pull the fuel shut-off handle but
> it was actually tied to another handle marked OIL SHUT OFF. So by
> pulling the fuel handle, I would also be shutting off the oil. Not
> exactly the same design Vic has, but the same results.
>
> We all tend to think of things in our aircraft always working the
> way they should. Obviously sometimes they don't. Our M-14's are
> shut off by turning off the mags. The mags are turned off by
> providing a GROUND to a "P" lead. All that needs to happen is for
> one of those wires to break and the engine will not be able to be
> shut down by the normal method. Switch failure, wire failure,
> whatever. The engine will not shut off. This leaves the Emergency
> Fuel Shut-Off as the only real method of securing the engine.
> However, when you pull this handle, the engine does not immediately
> shut off, it runs for awhile. If you have your oil shut-off valve
> connected so that it also shuts off with the Emergency Fuel Handle,
> then you will be running your engine without oil.
>
> To finish my particular story, I did just that. I pulled the shut-
> off handle out, the engine kept running and I then watched the oil
> pressure dropping to zero. I shoved the handle back in because I
> just could not stand to ruin an engine. Especially THIS engine.
>
> After chocking the airplane, I manually grounded the left mag which
> killed the engine. The "P" lead grounding wire was open to the
> switch.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
> P.s. Dennis, I do not believe in pulling the emergency fuel shut
> off handle after every flight. I personally believe that the
> pressure carb should have fuel to it at all times to help prevent
> diaphragms from drying out. However, I do believe it testing it
> every once in awhile! :-)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Eric Wobschall
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:23 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
> I have also heard varying opinions about whether or not the fuel
> valve should be shut off regularly. Opinions?
>
> On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:20 AM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
>
>
>
> Jim Kimball Enterprises in Zellwood, FL has been selling an oil
> shut of kit for quite some time. The valve interlocks with a
> microswitch which is wired to the air start button/air start valve.
> If the valve is closed, the engine can not be started because the
> microswitch remains engaged by the lever on the shut off valve.
http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/web/m14p.php
> Slide down the page to the 6th item.
> Dennis
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Vic <mailto:vicmolnar@aol.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:38 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Oil shut-off valve
>
>
> Hello,
> to stop oil draining into the crankcase I came to a solution
which
> works great on the Yak 18T so far. As you can see on the photos, I
> added a ball valve into the feed hose to the oil pump on the right
> side of the fire wall where the hose forms a U-shape. The lever on
> the ball valve is connected to the lever of the petrol tap on the
> left side via push-pull rod, so when you close the petrol after
> engine shut-down, you shut the oil at the same time. No more need to
> drain the crank case before start. You just cannot forget to turn on
> the oil as you cannot miss that petrol has to be opened in the
> cockpit, as both valves are connected by pushrod. I added a safety
> spring to the ball valve, pulling in the "open"position, in case,
> something should break.
> There may be the need for some minor re-routing of oil hoses
for a
> straight pushrod between both valves but it can be done. I dont
> know if this goes for 52s as well. Maybe there is need for an
> intermediate lever and two pushrods to clear obstacles, but the
> system seems reasonably failsafe to me.
>
> Vic
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312598#312598
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_shutoff_valve_125.jpg
>
>
> p; Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> ">http://www.matronics========================<; via the Web
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _p; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ">http://www.matronics.com/c================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Oil shut-off valve |
Hello ,
thank you all for your feedback about some side effects of my setup. Quite frankly,
I only had in mind to prevent starting the engine with oil valve closed.
And no, I did not think about an emergency shutdown in case a mag or two remained
hot because of a broken earth connection. I will keep the oil valve anyway
but am thinking of a way to close the fuel tap individually, but both valves
to open with a mechanical linkage. I do not like an electric workaround of this
problem, as some say, wires and switches do break. Anyway I keep you posted.
Vic
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312804#312804
Message 16
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| Subject: | Buzzer coil / Shower of sparks |
Hello,
some time ago I found a perfect replacement for the buzzer coil. It is a 24 V coil
with buzzer, military equipment. It produces half an inch spark. They turn
up occasionally, new old stock, vacuum packed in aluminium. So, if nobody objects,
Id put a short notice here to make them available to the Yakkers. I am a
private, no dealer, but a little profit should be allright ? At the moment there
is one to give away, offers by PM.
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312806#312806
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/buzzer_contacts_333.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_coil_209.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/contacts_185.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/original_coil_143.jpg
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: CJ6 remote oil filter kits |
We exclusively use the ADC filter system. It is the best performing filter on
the market. We have also made several "kits" for customers including everything
needed for installation. I am in the process of taking my spin on filter system
in favor of the ADC. It's a bit more expensive than a spin on kit, but
much better technology and more convenient.
Happy Flying,
Barry
--------
Barry Hancock
Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
(909) 606-4444
www.worldwidewarbirds.com
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312820#312820
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