Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:03 PM - Dry engine at last! (Cpayne)
2. 05:27 PM - 18T PARTS REQUIRED (Joe Howse)
3. 07:26 PM - Re: Dry engine at last! (Roger Kemp M.D.)
4. 09:26 PM - Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS (Larry Pine)
5. 10:16 PM - Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS (Larry Pine)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Dry engine at last! |
Ever arrive at an airshow or RPA event and cringe when you spotted all the oil
down the side of your airplane? All that really nice paint besmirched by streaks
of oil. I usually hurry to wipe away the embarrassing evidence. The cop-out
is always: "it's a radial you know". Some don't worry, I do. It's like the "heartbreak
of leaks" to paraphrase an old medicine ad.
What to do? Fix it. That's what I did but there are no short cuts.
1) Replace all of the pushrod hoses. That means pulling the pushrod, adjustment
screw and cam follower with spring. Reinstalling require crafting of a tool to
hold the follower and spring in place during re-install. I used good old US
3/4" H-6000 oil hose. Now that's a little too big so I also used pieces of 3/4"
Shrink tube to fatten up the lower pushrod end and the follower housing. That
and a heat gun gave the hose something to clamp up to. I used both stock clamps
and a Breese clamp for good measure on each hose.
2) Change out the rocker arm shaft crush washers with high temp red silicone metric
o-rings: 10mm ID x 2MM thickness. Retain the big washers which squeeze the
O-rings to seal the shaft ends.
3) Clean, and I mean clean and scrape the valve cover seal grooves. I acid etched
and powder coated since I went through that much trouble anyway. Use new Red
Silicone valve cover gaskets but first clean the mating surfaces on the engine
rocker housings and then lightly coat with Red RTV using an artists paint brush.
Let dry and install the valve covers dry, with fully seated gaskets (no
overlap). Adjust hold down wires for just enough tension without puckering out
the gaskets.
Me happy, so far...
Craig Payne
Message 2
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| Subject: | 18T PARTS REQUIRED |
LOOKING FOR THE FOLLOWING INTERIOR PARTS FOR 18T
FOR CABIN AIR CONTROL
7600-01 KNOB
7600-03 PANEL
7600-70 LEVER
3051A-4-26 SCREW FOR KNOB
FOR CABIN DOOR RESTRAINT (ONE DOOR)
0136-01 SWIVEL
0136-10 ROD
0136-02 BRACKET
FOR CABIN DOME LIGHT
7204-40 LENS
CM28-10 COVER
JOE HOWSE
Message 3
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| Subject: | Dry engine at last! |
Craig,
Thanks for the info. Had not thought of the hi temp 10 mm x2 mm o-rings with using
the retained crush washer to squeeze the o-ring on the rocker arm box.
Hope I remember it when I need it.
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cpayne
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2010 7:00 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Dry engine at last!
Ever arrive at an airshow or RPA event and cringe when you spotted all the oil
down the side of your airplane? All that really nice paint besmirched by streaks
of oil. I usually hurry to wipe away the embarrassing evidence. The cop-out
is always: "it's a radial you know". Some don't worry, I do. It's like the "heartbreak
of leaks" to paraphrase an old medicine ad.
What to do? Fix it. That's what I did but there are no short cuts.
1) Replace all of the pushrod hoses. That means pulling the pushrod, adjustment
screw and cam follower with spring. Reinstalling require crafting of a tool to
hold the follower and spring in place during re-install. I used good old US
3/4" H-6000 oil hose. Now that's a little too big so I also used pieces of 3/4"
Shrink tube to fatten up the lower pushrod end and the follower housing. That
and a heat gun gave the hose something to clamp up to. I used both stock clamps
and a Breese clamp for good measure on each hose.
2) Change out the rocker arm shaft crush washers with high temp red silicone metric
o-rings: 10mm ID x 2MM thickness. Retain the big washers which squeeze the
O-rings to seal the shaft ends.
3) Clean, and I mean clean and scrape the valve cover seal grooves. I acid etched
and powder coated since I went through that much trouble anyway. Use new Red
Silicone valve cover gaskets but first clean the mating surfaces on the engine
rocker housings and then lightly coat with Red RTV using an artists paint brush.
Let dry and install the valve covers dry, with fully seated gaskets (no
overlap). Adjust hold down wires for just enough tension without puckering out
the gaskets.
Me happy, so far...
Craig Payne
Message 4
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS |
I have a Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS Lite Plus that will be for sale.- Th
is has been installed in my CJ for the last year and has performed flawless
.-Has the latest software updates. -I'm redoing my cockpit and will sel
l at a considerable savings.- Cost $4500 new, will sell complete function
al system with custom water jetyed panel for $2000.
-
www.bluemountainavionics.com
-
Wanted to offer to the Yak community before I listed else where.- Contact
me directly if interested or with questions.
Larry
-
-=0A=0A=0A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS |
-
I have a Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS Lite Plus that will be for sale.- Th
is has been installed in my CJ for the last year and has performed flawless
.-Has the latest software updates. -I'm redoing my cockpit and will sel
l at a considerable savings.- Cost $4500 new, will sell complete function
al system with custom water jetyed panel for $2000.
-
www.bluemountainavionics.com
-
Wanted to offer to the Yak community before I listed else where.- Contact
me directly if interested or with questions.
Larry
-
-
=0A=0A=0A
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