Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 PM - stripping and painting aluminum (keithmckinley)
2. 01:31 PM - Re: stripping and painting aluminum (Warren Hill)
3. 05:45 PM - Re: stripping and painting aluminum (keithmckinley)
4. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: stripping and painting aluminum (doug sapp)
5. 07:23 PM - Re: stripping and painting aluminum (Noplugs)
6. 07:26 PM - Re: stripping and painting aluminum (Noplugs)
7. 07:28 PM - Re: Re: stripping and painting aluminum (Walter Lannon)
Message 1
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| Subject: | stripping and painting aluminum |
Looking for your two cents worth!
I'm in the process of replacing some canopy glass and thought it would be a good
time to repaint the canopy frame and components. I did some stripping of the
exterior paint on the canopy and found the current polyurethane top coat came
off pretty easily, The original Chinese green was a little harder and the gray
Chinese primer is pretty difficult to completely remove. I have a couple questions.
Is blasting with walnut shells an option?
Should I use a stronger stripper to completely remove the small amount of primer?
Can any abrasive be used on the metal (scotch pads, etc)?
Prior to repainting I was planning to use PPG 533 aluminum cleaner followed by
PPG 503 conditioner.
Then, should I prime with anything special or use a self priming Urethane paint?
Thanks
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331260#331260
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: stripping and painting aluminum |
Keith,
I tried to strip the cowling of my CJ down to the bare aluminum and gave up. The
Chinese paint came off OK, but that yellow primer was impossible to completely
remove. Took it over to our local aircraft painting shop and they had something
that took it off easily. So, visiting an aircraft paint shop may be the easy
way to go.
As an alternative, get as much of the primer off as you can with the most potent
stripper you can find and then gently sand off the remaining primer with fine
grain sandpaper. Did this for several other smaller parts and it worked quite
well.
Warren Hill
N464TW
On Feb 16, 2011, at 1:09 PM, keithmckinley wrote:
>
> Looking for your two cents worth!
>
> I'm in the process of replacing some canopy glass and thought it would be a good
time to repaint the canopy frame and components. I did some stripping of the
exterior paint on the canopy and found the current polyurethane top coat came
off pretty easily, The original Chinese green was a little harder and the gray
Chinese primer is pretty difficult to completely remove. I have a couple questions.
>
> Is blasting with walnut shells an option?
>
> Should I use a stronger stripper to completely remove the small amount of primer?
>
> Can any abrasive be used on the metal (scotch pads, etc)?
>
> Prior to repainting I was planning to use PPG 533 aluminum cleaner followed by
PPG 503 conditioner.
>
> Then, should I prime with anything special or use a self priming Urethane paint?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> KFIT
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331260#331260
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: stripping and painting aluminum |
Good point Warren. I might be obsessing too much over nothing. 90% of the primer
off and a little wet sand to blend it. I guess if it's that hard to get off
it's not coming off!
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331298#331298
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: stripping and painting aluminum |
Keith,
With room temp at about 75 to 80F apply a thick coat of "aircraft" stripper
then cover with plastic wrap, you must keep all the air away from
the stripper to keep it from drying. Let it sit for 4 to 6 hours then hit
it with a hot pressure washer. I use a 3000 PSI @ 200F "Stinger III"
pressure washer. This method works pretty well on most all epoxy type
primers. Any residue can normally be wiped off with MEK.
Doug
On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 5:38 PM, keithmckinley
<keith.mckinley@townisp.com>wrote:
> keith.mckinley@townisp.com>
>
> Good point Warren. I might be obsessing too much over nothing. 90% of the
> primer off and a little wet sand to blend it. I guess if it's that hard to
> get off it's not coming off!
>
> Keith
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> KFIT
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331298#331298
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: stripping and painting aluminum |
I use aircraft striper from a car paint shop $32/gal. I put it on thick let it
set then took a pressure washer and start the furthest away from you and work
the gun toward you. In other words do not push the stripper the water will dilute
the stripper and the paint will start to re-gel. On stubborn area I took
a BRASS wire brush (Home Depot has a nice one in with their orange stripping
gloves) re-applied the stripper and used the brush. As for the canopy hardware
I have a blast cabinet and glass beads. It a lot of work it took me weeks working
a few hour a night and weekend to strip the entire plane. I also use a soda
plaster for some areas
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331306#331306
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cj6_256_116.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: stripping and painting aluminum |
I use aircraft striper from a car paint shop $32/gal. I put it on thick let it
set then took a pressure washer and start the furthest away from you and work
the gun toward you. In other words do not push the stripper the water will dilute
the stripper and the paint will start to re-gel. On stubborn area I took
a BRASS wire brush (Home Depot has a nice one in with their orange stripping
gloves) re-applied the stripper and used the brush. As for the canopy hardware
I have a blast cabinet and glass beads. It a lot of work it took me weeks working
a few hour a night and weekend to strip the entire plane. I also use a soda
plaster for some areas
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331307#331307
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: stripping and painting aluminum |
The Chinese top coat is a lacquer and the prmer is a very good zinc chromate (on
the al. alloy) and red oxide (on steel parts).
Any good stripper will remove the top coat and the primer will come off with 3M
Scotch Brite (red) and lacquer thinner or good gun wash.
Don't use any sandpaper!. If necessary to remove any corrosion use 3M (Scotch
brand) Wet-or Dry paper- NO sandpaper. Most of the parts will be anodized and
will not be damaged by judicious use of the red scoth brite but will be with abrasive
papers.
To prep for painting use a phosphoric acid etchant like Stits Metal Prep. This
removes the oxide coating from bare (or alclad) al. alloy and will clean the anodized
surface perfectly.
Treat bare alloy with a chromic acid etch - Alodine 1200 or the comparable Stits
product. Do not use on anodized surface except in areas where you have cleaned
up corrosion, etc. It has no effect on the anodizing.
The reason for the chromic etch is to prevent the formation of aluminium oxide
which begins to form immediately after
cleaning.
The PPG products Keith mentioned may be the same items.
Be very careful to follow the product instructions, particularly with the chromic
acid.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: doug sapp
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: stripping and painting aluminum
Keith,
With room temp at about 75 to 80F apply a thick coat of "aircraft" stripper then
cover with plastic wrap, you must keep all the air away from the stripper
to keep it from drying. Let it sit for 4 to 6 hours then hit it with a hot pressure
washer. I use a 3000 PSI @ 200F "Stinger III" pressure washer. This
method works pretty well on most all epoxy type primers. Any residue can normally
be wiped off with MEK.
Doug
On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 5:38 PM, keithmckinley <keith.mckinley@townisp.com> wrote:
Good point Warren. I might be obsessing too much over nothing. 90% of the primer
off and a little wet sand to blend it. I guess if it's that hard to get
off it's not coming off!
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331298#331298
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