Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:18 AM - Re: EGT probes (aerostar6)
2. 01:27 AM - Re: engine failure over water (aerostar6)
3. 06:10 AM - Re: Re: EGT probes (Eric Wobschall)
4. 06:23 AM - Re: EGT probes (dabear)
5. 06:47 AM - Re: Re: engine failure over water (Roger Kemp M.D.)
6. 01:04 PM - Re: engine failure over water (aerostar6)
7. 04:49 PM - Re: engine failure over water (GreasySideUp)
Message 1
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FWIW, my experience. Had two threaded bosses welded into my YAK 50 exhausts for
smoke injectors. Very nice and pretty, but the stacks both had to come off within
three years for re-weld due to cracking. As I remember it, this was a specialist
job, as the weld had to be done in an argon(if my memory correct) atmosphere.
That said, I switched from flexible to rigid lines where the pipes meet the injector,
and haven't had a problem since, and that was 8 years ago.. My buddy has,
on the other hand, had the simple hole/strap arrangement on his '50 for the
same time with no problems at all.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333431#333431
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: engine failure over water |
In all this discussion about bailing out rather than ditching, no-one has mentioned
the likelihood of drowning in the canopy.
I'm not ex-military, but am sure that nearly all milspec chutes (in the UK) have
a central quick release box QRB which doctrine requires to be released as your
feet hit the water, instantly shedding the canopy.
I have a Strong 304 chute which has 2 snap fastenings and 2 leg pass throughs to
get rid of before shedding the harness and being able to inflate my life vest.
Over the years my personal choice for extended water crossings (made a few to Europe
and back from UK) has been to sit on the chute with the harness unfastened
with plan A being to ditch and shrug out of the chute as I go over the side.
Figure my odds better than bailing and getting the harness off whilst in the
water before the canopy drags me down.
Thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333432#333432
Message 3
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We've done the Sukhoi exhaust stacks (both sides that include the terminus) several
times. The flange that accepts the smoke injectors do crack, and the correct
welding rod and technique takes some research and some trial and error, even
for the best welders. Also, you're correct, the hose for the smoke oil needs
to be flexible (to slow down cracking), and it matters where it's fastened,
etc. To be airshow ready, Rick felt it necessary to have a pair of spare stacks
repaired and on hand (they're scarce as hen's teeth). It's a matter of slowing
down the cracking, not stopping it (in this case).
Just due to reduced mass and the fact that the thing isn't welded on with all of
the accompanying problems, I think the simple hole is better, as Mark pointed
out. Of course, that's not an option with the smoke nozzles, and I also realize
there are other applications where the threaded flanges might work better
for EGT probes.
Really, I'm talking about the SU-26M and thinking Yaks are probably similar in
this respect.
On Mar 10, 2011, at 4:15 AM, aerostar6 wrote:
>
> FWIW, my experience. Had two threaded bosses welded into my YAK 50 exhausts for
smoke injectors. Very nice and pretty, but the stacks both had to come off
within three years for re-weld due to cracking. As I remember it, this was a specialist
job, as the weld had to be done in an argon(if my memory correct) atmosphere.
>
> That said, I switched from flexible to rigid lines where the pipes meet the injector,
and haven't had a problem since, and that was 8 years ago.. My buddy
has, on the other hand, had the simple hole/strap arrangement on his '50 for the
same time with no problems at all.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333431#333431
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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I put nine probes on the EGT side to monitor instant changes of the
cylinders and then 5 on the CHT side monitoring the first 5 Cyl. That gave
me plenty of measurements. Now I've heard of some folks putting switches in
between the sensors and the Dynon to switch between sets of sensors and get
all 18 but I don't think it is needed.
I'm enjoying the heck out of the SV system. I think you'll like it once it
is installed and de-bugged.
Bear
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jbuseman
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:21 PM
Subject: Yak-List: EGT probes
Hi guys I am looking for some opinions on where to put some temp probes on
the M-14. I am using the Dynon Skyview which allows me up to 14 probes in
any variety. Just looking for suggestions as to how you would divide them up
ex. 9 EGT/5 CHT or 9CHT/5EGT or any other such arrangement. Also which
cylinders would be most desirable to have the probes on. Is it typical on
the engine to have certain cylinders run hotter than others? My engine is
Fuel Injected. Thank you.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333249#333249
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: engine failure over water |
That was why the discussion by Josh included the comment about LPUs (life
preserver units). Mil spec LPUs compensate for the added wt of the harness
and chute on initial water entry. Since we have the luxury of coke fittings
that rapidly release you from the harness that is not an issue of being drug
down by a parachute that is still attached to the harness. Wearing a horse
shoe C02 activated collar that is not part of the harness would make it
easier to separate from the harness on water entry. The next issue you quit
possibly would face is entanglement in the chute cords as the chute itself
will likely float on the surface before sinking if you are still in the
harness and wearing a LPU. The key is not to panic. Search for a seam and
pull yourself along under that seam until you clear the chute. Don't kick
your feet since that can farther entangle your feet in the risers and
parachute cords.
Strong will install a mil spec horse shoe collar on your chute similar to
the ones that are found on military harnesses for a fee. Carry a knife with
a serrated edge on so you can cut yourself free of the risers if necessary.
Since we are on the topic of water parachute entries, once in the water
there is a risk of the chute remaining inflated and pulling you along. If
that happens cross your arms over the risers if you are face down in the
water and roll onto your back. Once on your back, bend your legs at the
knees to pull them down to use you heels as a drag in the water to slow
yourself down as you are being pulled along. Also raise your head and tuck
your chin on your chest to use the back of your head (helmet if wearing one)
as a keel to push water away from you nose and mouth while you release the
chest and crotch fittings to free yourself from the harness. Would not free
myself from the harness if my LPU is attached to my harness though. I would
start sawing away on the risers to release the chute from my harness.
Before Water Entry Checklist:
Mask Off, visor up, check canopy, 4 line jettison if no lines over canopy,
LPUs deploy, seat pack deploy, 100 feet above surface turn into the wind,
eyes on horizon, knees slightly bent, feet together, feel feet touch water
fall to posterior side of hips and flank. You don't release the coke
fittings until in the water.
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerostar6
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 3:25 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: engine failure over water
In all this discussion about bailing out rather than ditching, no-one has
mentioned the likelihood of drowning in the canopy.
I'm not ex-military, but am sure that nearly all milspec chutes (in the UK)
have a central quick release box QRB which doctrine requires to be released
as your feet hit the water, instantly shedding the canopy.
I have a Strong 304 chute which has 2 snap fastenings and 2 leg pass
throughs to get rid of before shedding the harness and being able to inflate
my life vest.
Over the years my personal choice for extended water crossings (made a few
to Europe and back from UK) has been to sit on the chute with the harness
unfastened with plan A being to ditch and shrug out of the chute as I go
over the side. Figure my odds better than bailing and getting the harness
off whilst in the water before the canopy drags me down.
Thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333432#333432
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: engine failure over water |
But I repeat, if you are not milspec equipped with Koch fasteners............
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333476#333476
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: engine failure over water |
This is the life preserver I use. http://www.sportys.com/PilotShop/product/15003
What Doc Said....
The chute will not sink for a while if at all. Everything the Doc said is what
they are teaching in survival school. To pile on, if the chute lands on top
of you the key is to still swim to the surface and get your cranium above the
water. The chute will drape over your nugget but you will be able to breathe
just fine. It is a lot lighter material than a blanket, it will allow light through
and you will be able to lift it up easily. Like the doc said, find a seam
in the chute and start pulling along that seam keeping your nugget out of
the water the whole time. Eventually you will find the edge of the chute and
be clear. If you panic and pull in random directions you will never reach the
end. Be patient, pick one seam only and keep following it to the end. If you
reach the middle of the chute, it sucks you went the wrong way but at least
you know you are half way there. If there is any wind at all, the chute will
most likely fall past where you landed.
My plan is to inflate the LPU on the way down, before I hit the water so I know
I will be buoyant. Once I hit water, I'll worry about clearing the chute first
and then once clear, releasing the leg and chest fittings on the chute and I'll
get rid of the entire harness.
Even without the military fittings, if being drug by the chute I'll release the
chest strap first and then the leg straps and I should slide right out of the
entire harness.
Again, the key is not to panic, get to the surface and breath. The chute will
not drag you to the bottom of the ocean right away but you can drown if you panic
and don't push it out of the way with your hand. At water survival, these
things floated for a while with no signs of sinking.
-j
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333495#333495
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