Yak-List Digest Archive

Thu 08/25/11


Total Messages Posted: 4



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:01 AM - Re: Seized exhaust rings - Yak52 M14P (A. Dennis Savarese)
     2. 10:29 AM - Re: Seized exhaust rings - Yak52 M14P (doug sapp)
     3. 10:38 AM - Re: Re: Seized exhaust rings - Yak52 M14P (Donald & Marilyn Andrews)
     4. 10:59 PM - Autoplug cable diameter (CJcanuck)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:01:59 AM PST US
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Seized exhaust rings - Yak52 M14P
    Your problem is not unusual Nigel. Although I'm sure there are 100's of suggestions on how to loosen the exhaust collars, I will share what I have used in the past with only moderate success. That means it does not work in every situation. The last resort is as you mentioned, cutting the collar off the threaded exhaust port, then cutting the exhaust section, installing a new collar and welding the exhaust section precisely in the same position. I have soaked the threads around the exhaust collar with; - PB Blaster - Mouse Milk You will have to soak the threads heavily and let them sit for several hours. I have also heated the collar using a propane torch and then tried turning it. BUT not with PB Blaster or Mouse Milk on the threads. Especially if the stuff is still liquid. It's flammable. Before reinstalling the threaded collar on the exhaust port, be sure to thoroughly clean the threads with a wire brush. If reusing the original collar, be sure to thoroughly clean the threads on it as well. Then I put copper based anti-seize compound around the port and collar threads, like the type one would use on the spark plug threads. This seems to help, should you ever need to tighten or loosen the collar again. Dennis A. Dennis Savarese 334-285-6263 334-546-8182 (cell) Skype: Yakguy1 www.yak-52.com On 8/25/2011 1:08 AM, Nigel Willson wrote: > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Nigel Willson"<nigel@yakdisplay.com> > > > Can anyone help? > > Am in a bit of a pickle with our Yak52 so am after advice and possible parts > if we can. > > A couple of exhausts have come loose (M14P engine) and the rings are > locked solid we cant budge them. The holes for the special tool have long > since been mauled away. > > The exhausts in question are (viewed from INSIDE the cockpit) the very top > cylinder, and the one to the immediate right of it (12 oclock and 1 > oclock). The top cylinder is a 45 degree angle short piece, and the next > one is a T-piece. > > The questions are: > > 1. Does anyone have any bright ideas how to get the rings off without > cutting them or damaging the cylinder head threads? > 2. Does anyone sell the rings and olives separate (we could cut the existing > exhaust to get the new ones on and re-weld exhaust)? > 3. Does anyone sell the two exhaust parts in question complete with the > rings and olives? > > As usual, weve got a display booked for this weekend your advice and help > would be very welcome! > > Perhaps you could let us know ASAP.. and costs if anyone has anything > appropriate. > > Thanks in advance > > Nigel > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 10:29:12 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Seized exhaust rings - Yak52 M14P
    From: doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com>
    Nigel, The best penetrating fluid I have found to date is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. This mix seems to go where MM and most others won't. I have no experience with PB Blaster. The replacement exhaust nuts can be installed without cutting and re weldin g the pipe, this is done with the use of a jewelers saw and a tig welder. Call me if you need me to walk you through it. I have done it many times. Care needs to be taken when attempting to remove a stuck exhaust nut as the exhaust boss (the part the exhaust nut screws on to) is simply threaded into, then staked in the alu cylinder head. Excessive force can loosen the stake or strip the threads out of the cyl. Go slowly and carefully. Best, Doug 509-826-4610 On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 5:59 AM, A. Dennis Savarese < dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote: > dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> > > Your problem is not unusual Nigel. Although I'm sure there are 100's of > suggestions on how to loosen the exhaust collars, I will share what I hav e > used in the past with only moderate success. That means it does not work in > every situation. The last resort is as you mentioned, cutting the collar off > the threaded exhaust port, then cutting the exhaust section, installing a > new collar and welding the exhaust section precisely in the same position . > I have soaked the threads around the exhaust collar with; > - PB Blaster > - Mouse Milk > > You will have to soak the threads heavily and let them sit for several > hours. > > I have also heated the collar using a propane torch and then tried turnin g > it. BUT not with PB Blaster or Mouse Milk on the threads. Especially if t he > stuff is still liquid. It's flammable. > > Before reinstalling the threaded collar on the exhaust port, be sure to > thoroughly clean the threads with a wire brush. If reusing the original > collar, be sure to thoroughly clean the threads on it as well. Then I put > copper based anti-seize compound around the port and collar threads, like > the type one would use on the spark plug threads. This seems to help, sho uld > you ever need to tighten or loosen the collar again. > > Dennis > > A. Dennis Savarese > 334-285-6263 > 334-546-8182 (cell) > Skype: Yakguy1 > www.yak-52.com > > > On 8/25/2011 1:08 AM, Nigel Willson wrote: > >> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Nigel Willson"<nigel@yakdisplay.com> >> >> >> Can anyone help? >> >> Am in a bit of a pickle with our Yak52 so am after advice and possible >> parts >> if we can=85. >> >> A couple of exhausts have come loose (M14P engine) ' and the rings ar e >> locked solid ' we can=92t budge them. The holes for the special tool h ave >> long >> since been mauled away. >> >> The exhausts in question are (viewed from INSIDE the cockpit) the very t op >> cylinder, and the one to the immediate right of it (12 o=92clock and 1 >> o=92clock). The top cylinder is a 45 degree angle short piece, and the n ext >> one is a T-piece. >> >> The questions are: >> >> 1. Does anyone have any bright ideas how to get the rings off without >> cutting them or damaging the cylinder head threads? >> 2. Does anyone sell the rings and olives separate (we could cut the >> existing >> exhaust to get the new ones on and re-weld exhaust)? >> 3. Does anyone sell the two exhaust parts in question complete with the >> rings and olives? >> >> As usual, we=92ve got a display booked for this weekend ' your advice and >> help >> would be very welcome! >> >> Perhaps you could let us know ASAP=85.. and costs if anyone has anything >> appropriate=85. >> >> Thanks in advance >> >> Nigel >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> =====**=================== ===========**= onics.com/Navigator?Yak-List> =====**=================== ===========**= =====**=================== ===========**= com/contribution> =====**=================== ===========**= > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 10:38:32 AM PST US
    From: "Donald & Marilyn Andrews" <dandmaz@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Seized exhaust rings - Yak52 M14P
    good to see you back in the saddle . Don _____ From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of doug sapp Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 10:26 AM Subject: Re: Yak-List: Seized exhaust rings - Yak52 M14P Nigel, The best penetrating fluid I have found to date is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. This mix seems to go where MM and most others won't. I have no experience with PB Blaster. The replacement exhaust nuts can be installed without cutting and re welding the pipe, this is done with the use of a jewelers saw and a tig welder. Call me if you need me to walk you through it. I have done it many times. Care needs to be taken when attempting to remove a stuck exhaust nut as the exhaust boss (the part the exhaust nut screws on to) is simply threaded into, then staked in the alu cylinder head. Excessive force can loosen the stake or strip the threads out of the cyl. Go slowly and carefully. Best, Doug 509-826-4610 On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 5:59 AM, A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote: <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> Your problem is not unusual Nigel. Although I'm sure there are 100's of suggestions on how to loosen the exhaust collars, I will share what I have used in the past with only moderate success. That means it does not work in every situation. The last resort is as you mentioned, cutting the collar off the threaded exhaust port, then cutting the exhaust section, installing a new collar and welding the exhaust section precisely in the same position. I have soaked the threads around the exhaust collar with; - PB Blaster - Mouse Milk You will have to soak the threads heavily and let them sit for several hours. I have also heated the collar using a propane torch and then tried turning it. BUT not with PB Blaster or Mouse Milk on the threads. Especially if the stuff is still liquid. It's flammable. Before reinstalling the threaded collar on the exhaust port, be sure to thoroughly clean the threads with a wire brush. If reusing the original collar, be sure to thoroughly clean the threads on it as well. Then I put copper based anti-seize compound around the port and collar threads, like the type one would use on the spark plug threads. This seems to help, should you ever need to tighten or loosen the collar again. Dennis A. Dennis Savarese 334-285-6263 334-546-8182 (cell) Skype: Yakguy1 www.yak-52.com On 8/25/2011 1:08 AM, Nigel Willson wrote: --> Yak-List message posted by: "Nigel Willson"<nigel@yakdisplay.com> Can anyone help? Am in a bit of a pickle with our Yak52 so am after advice and possible parts if we can.. A couple of exhausts have come loose (M14P engine) - and the rings are locked solid - we can't budge them. The holes for the special tool have long since been mauled away. The exhausts in question are (viewed from INSIDE the cockpit) the very top cylinder, and the one to the immediate right of it (12 o'clock and 1 o'clock). The top cylinder is a 45 degree angle short piece, and the next one is a T-piece. The questions are: 1. Does anyone have any bright ideas how to get the rings off without cutting them or damaging the cylinder head threads? 2. Does anyone sell the rings and olives separate (we could cut the existing exhaust to get the new ones on and re-weld exhaust)? 3. Does anyone sell the two exhaust parts in question complete with the rings and olives? As usual, we've got a display booked for this weekend - your advice and help would be very welcome! Perhaps you could let us know ASAP... and costs if anyone has anything appropriate.. Thanks in advance Nigel =================================== rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List =================================== http://forums.matronics.com =================================== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ===================================


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:59:02 PM PST US
    Subject: Autoplug cable diameter
    From: "CJcanuck" <m_kirk69@hotmail.com>
    Does anyone happen to know what diameter ignition cables World Wide Warbird uses for their auto-ignition kits? We are replacing our mag cap and need to ream out the holes. Thanks! Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350603#350603




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