Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:26 AM - Yak Battery box (Anthony Hudacek)
2. 01:53 AM - Re: Yak Battery box (Jan Mevis)
3. 10:35 AM - Re: Yak Battery box (Walter Lannon)
4. 11:52 AM - Re: helmets (Markus)
5. 12:09 PM - Re: Re: helmets (RICHARD VOLKER)
6. 12:49 PM - Re: Re: helmets (Noise) (Larry Pine)
7. 01:02 PM - Re: Yak Battery box (Elmar & Manuela Hegenauer)
8. 01:16 PM - Re: helmets (Markus)
9. 03:04 PM - Re: M14PEngines-List: Re: M14P starting issues (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
10. 04:06 PM - Re: CJ6 prop (Walter Lannon)
11. 05:41 PM - Re: Re: helmets (RICHARD VOLKER)
12. 06:20 PM - J9-G1 prop problem (Pete Fowler)
13. 08:49 PM - Re: J9-G1 prop problem (Walter Lannon)
Message 1
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Hi all,=0A-=0AStill trying to get some pics of an 18T battery setup with
aftermarket batteries, eg: oddysey etc. Any pics please? Haven't recieved a
ny as yet. It's only two screws to open the battery area. Don't- have a y
ak battery box. -Hopeing someone wouldn't mind spending two minutes of th
eir time to take some pics.=0A-=0AAnt.
Message 2
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Odyssey batteries are very good. Why don't you try to use boxes where the
Odysseys seat well in? Different types available via Airspruce etc. Then the
problem boils down to finding a way to secure these boxes within the battery
cabinet.
That's what I did in my 50.
Jan
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Anthony Hudacek
Sent: zondag 8 januari 2012 10:24
Subject: Yak-List: Yak Battery box
Hi all,
Still trying to get some pics of an 18T battery setup with aftermarket
batteries, eg: oddysey etc. Any pics please? Haven't recieved any as yet.
It's only two screws to open the battery area. Don't have a yak battery
box. Hopeing someone wouldn't mind spending two minutes of their time to
take some pics.
Ant.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Yak Battery box |
Hi Anthony;
Just happen to have a pic of my CJ6 battery box with two Panasonic LCX
1228P batteries installed. Horizontal retention and spacing provided by
wood blocks attached to the box.
Unfortunately did not take a photo of the inside of the cover which has
two wood blocks attached for vertical retention.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: Anthony Hudacek
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 1:23 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Yak Battery box
Hi all,
Still trying to get some pics of an 18T battery setup with aftermarket
batteries, eg: oddysey etc. Any pics please? Haven't recieved any as
yet. It's only two screws to open the battery area. Don't have a yak
battery box. Hopeing someone wouldn't mind spending two minutes of
their time to take some pics.
Ant.
Message 4
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While we are at helmets... A slightly off-topic question, but Im curious to know
if anyone has any experience wearing a Clarity Aloft headset "inside" an HGU-55?
Would there be issues with the small box of the headset, where the cable
exits the headband in the neck, with the nape strap or neck edge-roll of the helmet?
Im familiar with the CEP, but Im currently thinking to buy myself a Clarity
Aloft and use it together with an "empty" helmet (no microphone, not speakers
etc) for aerobatics and the headset without the helmet for non-aerobatic
type of flying.
Any advice appreciated.
Markus
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362759#362759
Message 5
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The length of the Clarity Aloft earpiece is greater than the CEP's on the market,
and can be uncomfortable for longer than thirty minutes when squeezed under
a helmet. The helmet places constant pressure on the long earpiece. I have used
this combo several times in loud warbirds.
Rick VOLKER
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 8, 2012, at 2:49 PM, "Markus" <feyerabm@web.de> wrote:
>
> While we are at helmets... A slightly off-topic question, but Im curious to know
if anyone has any experience wearing a Clarity Aloft headset "inside" an HGU-55?
Would there be issues with the small box of the headset, where the cable
exits the headband in the neck, with the nape strap or neck edge-roll of the
helmet? Im familiar with the CEP, but Im currently thinking to buy myself a Clarity
Aloft and use it together with an "empty" helmet (no microphone, not speakers
etc) for aerobatics and the headset without the helmet for non-aerobatic
type of flying.
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> Markus
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362759#362759
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: helmets (Noise) |
All,
I've posted my experience one before in this area.- About 2 years ago, I
worked closely with Westone to develop a system that would work with our he
lmets and coms.- They have developed a light weight molded speaker system
that works with our without your helmet speakers.- A mold is taken from
your ear, that mold is sent to Westone and a low profile ear plug is produc
ed.- Since the mold is from your ear, it fit perfectly and comfortable.
- I have used these for more than two years now and a number of others ha
s since installed them in their helmets.- To illustrate the difference.
- Before Westones, I would have to turn the volume almost to 100% when in
the pattern inorder to hear the tower clearly.- With Westons, I routinel
y have the volume adjusted to about 10 t0 15%.- I hear the com radio and
music fantastically, while still hearing the aircraft and engine.- I beli
eve I can monitor the sound of the engine moreso with the Westones on becau
se it
removed much of the high pitch noice.- Can't fly without them and quite
frankly would not want to.- Now flights are less stressful.- Below is a
link to the company and if wanted I can put you intouch with my local rep
that helped develop these.- They are used through out the military and no
w for civilian radio impedances.
-
My setup includes: HGU-55p with Oragan foam elephant ears, and standard TPL
lining.
-
http://www.westone.com/military/military-introduction
Larry Pine
--- On Sun, 1/8/12, RICHARD VOLKER <rick@rvairshows.com> wrote:
From: RICHARD VOLKER <rick@rvairshows.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: helmets
The length of the Clarity Aloft earpiece is greater than the CEP's on the m
arket, and can be uncomfortable for longer than thirty minutes when squeeze
d under a helmet. The helmet places constant pressure on the long earpiece.
I have used this combo several times in loud warbirds.
Rick VOLKER
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 8, 2012, at 2:49 PM, "Markus" <feyerabm@web.de> wrote:
>
> While we are at helmets... A slightly off-topic question, but I=C2=B4m cu
rious to know if anyone has any experience wearing a Clarity Aloft headset
"inside" an HGU-55? Would there be issues with the small box of the headset
, where the cable exits the headband in the neck, with the nape strap or ne
ck edge-roll of the helmet? I=C2=B4m familiar with the CEP, but I=C2=B4m cu
rrently thinking to buy myself a Clarity Aloft and use it together with an
"empty" helmet (no microphone, not speakers etc) for aerobatics and the hea
dset without the helmet for non-aerobatic type of flying.
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> Markus
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362759#362759
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>
le, List Admin.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Yak Battery box |
Hi Ant.,
attached is a picture of the
Odyssey PC680 with the
metal jacket and a racing car
hold down billet.
Hope that helps.
cheers
Elmar
Message 8
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Thanks Richard, so the only thing would be the length of the earpieces but not
the head band or the cable box or so. I guess Ill have to try and find someone
who will borrow me the Clarity Aloft to give it a try.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362766#362766
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RE: M14PEngines-List: Re: M14P starting issues |
Wow.
Reposted to the Yak List for info. This is one worth remembering.
Mark Bitterlich
________________________________
From: owner-m14pengines-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of waterpro
Sent: Sun 1/8/2012 5:38 PM
Subject: M14PEngines-List: Re: M14P starting issues
--> M14PEngines-List message posted by: "waterpro" <h2o.pro@hotmail.com>
WE GOT IT RUNNING!!!! Bill is ecstatic!
Here is today's progress report:
We went over the timing with a fine tooth comb. It's bang on 15 degrees on both
mags.
We cleaned everything related to the points and every contact inside both mags.
Checked the gap on the points .022-.025 mm on each respectively.
Here is where it gets interesting so pay attention! :-)
I know this engine needs lots of prime to get going when dry, but the #7 cylinder
issue got me thinking more physics than engine mechanic.
The #7 cylinder is the closest to the primer nozzle, and the first intake that
is "downhill" in the intake sequence.
We knew we had good prime to the primer line, but no idea what happened after that.
We went to remove the primer nozzle (a bugger of a job) but could not get it out
even after removing the entire alternator and #7 intake manifold.
Bill has moments of greatness and figured that there was no point in removing the
primer nozzle because we could just see it through the #7 intake once the pipe
was removed.
We hooked all of the fuel back up and gave it a shot of prime.
Blah.....3 very small disorganized streams of fuel came out of the end of the primer
nozzle almost at a right angle and went towards the front of the engine.
THIS EXPLAINS IT ALL!
The end of the primer nozzle obviously had something plugging it. We took the primer
line off again and cleaned everything as well as blew it out with compressed
air.
Nothing noticeable came out even though we had a rag over the primer nozzle to
make sure nothing got in to the impeller or the rest of the engine.
After hooking everything back up, we tried the prime again.
Beautiful! A nice wide fan like spray of fine fuel mist went everywhere.
There was about 3 times the volume of fuel in this spray than there was in the
streams before the cleaning.
We re assembled the engine and checked everything.
It took us about 10 min. to roll the plane out of the shop, prep it, go through
the pre-start checklist and get her running.
She fired right up with a few small sputters and a real nice orange flame from
both exhausts, along with a backyard full of white smoke.
In conclusion it is quite simple. The primer was not putting fuel where it needed
to be in order to have the impeller spin the fuel in to all of the intake pipes.
It simply spurted out a disorganized glob of fuel of which half ran right
in to intake #7 and the rest straight down and out the manifold drain hoses.
Thank you to all of those who gave their opinions and ides. You got us going and
kept us motivated.
One more Russian radial will be in the air this spring.
Peter
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362778#362778
Message 10
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Hi Chris;
Neglected to give you my email address. Thought it would be on the Yak
List post. Wrong!
It is wlannon@shaw.ca
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Wise
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 4:48 PM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 prop
G'Day All,
I am looking for a new set of blades and hub for a Nanchang CJ6 with
associated paperwork to onsell.
If a second hand set with Hub, please advise hours to run (the more
the better)
Please advise prices.
Thanks and cheers,
Chris.
Message 11
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Markus,
The cable box and head band do not get in the way. I have discussed CEP's
with Bill Waterman, owner of Clarity Aloft, and he intends to use a shorter CEP-like
earpiece in the future to fit under helmets better. It is not likely to
happen overnight. i have seen them already go to an angled, shorter earpiece
than their first series. Also, you want the non-tso'd, cheaper model because
the mic is much stiffer and stays put much better under G-load. The headband can
be bent to be comfortable. The tso'd version may have more comfortable head
band under the pressure of a helmet, but the mike is horribly floppy.
Rick
On Jan 8, 2012, at 4:13 PM, Markus wrote:
>
> Thanks Richard, so the only thing would be the length of the earpieces but not
the head band or the cable box or so. I guess Ill have to try and find someone
who will borrow me the Clarity Aloft to give it a try.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362766#362766
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | J9-G1 prop problem |
Had a problem this weekend at an airshow. The prop control stopped working. What
happened was that at high MP, the prop started overspeeding so I pulled the
prop lever and power and got an RPM and MP that allowed a safe landing.
We replaced the prop governor and I went and did a test flight and other than only
getting about 2150 rpm (we guessed at the adjustment) it worked great.
So I started the airshow and the first time I pulled the power while doing a rejoin,
the prop started overspeeding same as the previous day. It was totally unresponsive
to the prop control and I orbited for altitude while assessing and
once I'd reached a good glide altitude to the runway I tried cycling the prop
and it "came back to life" and was able to be adjusted and was responsive (held
RPM at different MP).
Once I got to my home airport, I tried adjusting it while overhead and it completely
stopped working again (I had to reduce MP to keep the RPM safe). Landed
safely and tried cycling it on the ground and it worked but the prop control lever
was "sticky".
Note that in all our examination and work on the governor, the linkage was and
is free and correct and there was resistance on the governor. I assume it's a
problem in the prop hub itself but does anyone have any ideas?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362796#362796
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: J9-G1 prop problem |
Pete;
Check to see if the prop control copper sleeve is moving with the cable. It
should be clamped solid about 10" or so left of the governor.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Fowler" <pfdesign1@cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 6:17 PM
Subject: Yak-List: J9-G1 prop problem
>
> Had a problem this weekend at an airshow. The prop control stopped
> working. What happened was that at high MP, the prop started overspeeding
> so I pulled the prop lever and power and got an RPM and MP that allowed a
> safe landing.
>
> We replaced the prop governor and I went and did a test flight and other
> than only getting about 2150 rpm (we guessed at the adjustment) it worked
> great.
>
> So I started the airshow and the first time I pulled the power while doing
> a rejoin, the prop started overspeeding same as the previous day. It was
> totally unresponsive to the prop control and I orbited for altitude while
> assessing and once I'd reached a good glide altitude to the runway I tried
> cycling the prop and it "came back to life" and was able to be adjusted
> and was responsive (held RPM at different MP).
>
> Once I got to my home airport, I tried adjusting it while overhead and it
> completely stopped working again (I had to reduce MP to keep the RPM
> safe). Landed safely and tried cycling it on the ground and it worked but
> the prop control lever was "sticky".
>
> Note that in all our examination and work on the governor, the linkage was
> and is free and correct and there was resistance on the governor. I assume
> it's a problem in the prop hub itself but does anyone have any ideas?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362796#362796
>
>
>
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