Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:16 AM - Re: FW: M 14 P (Monty Barrett Sr)
2. 08:28 AM - Re: Carb Alternative (Monty Barrett Sr)
3. 12:33 PM - M14P Oil Check Valve (SP55)
4. 12:47 PM - Re: M14P Oil Check Valve (George Coy)
5. 03:04 PM - Re: FW: M 14 P (Chris Wise)
6. 04:40 PM - Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos (Espada)
7. 04:58 PM - Re: Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos (A. Dennis Savarese)
8. 05:43 PM - Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos (Espada)
9. 05:48 PM - Re: Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos (Roger Baker)
10. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos (Brian Lloyd)
11. 06:48 PM - Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos (Espada)
12. 09:26 PM - Re: Re: g-meter for sale (William Scully)
Message 1
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BPE has found the exhaust seats very hard and the best method to date
has been to grind them wet. Use a lifting spring under the stone holder
so the stone does not stop on the seat. BPE also made short stone
holders so that a Sioux stone driver can be inserted in the cylinder
bore. We have plans to unbarrel the head but to date have not done
this.
Please, PLEASE! Do not grind the face of the exhaust valve at 45 Deg.
This causes a thin section under the valve head and the valve will
fracture dropping the separated head into the cylinder and generally
raise havoc inside the cylinder.
The correct angle is 46 Deg. 15 minutes. Grind the seat the same angle.
BPE has found several exhaust seats that were too wide, particularly on
the outer edge, which can also cause some grief because the valve
operates at a higher temperature than the seat and the valve then wants
to seat in the wrong place relative to the seat when the engine is up to
operating temperature.
BPE has never seen evidence of an outer narrowing angle being applied by
either Russia or Romania and at factory assemble outer narrowing may not
be needed. But good shop practices require at least 1/64 outer margin,
valve over seat.
Monty Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: A. Dennis Savarese [mailto:dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 7:44 AM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Cc: Rhonda Bewley; Monty Barrett Sr
Subject: Re: Yak-List: FW: M 14 P
Chris,'
You should contact Barrett Precision Engines in Tulsa, Oklahoma.
I guarantee you they will have the answers you need. 918-835-1089.
Outstanding US overhaul shop. They have developed and have running a
beautiful coil-over electronic ignition (one coil per spark plug) and
fuel injection setup for the M14.
Most likely you will speak to Rhonda first. Ask Rhonda if you
can discuss some technical stuff with either Monte Barrett or Allen
Barrett. They will also have cylinders for exchange. Rhonda's email
address is Rhonda@BPAENGINES.com.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 5/14/2012 4:58 PM, Chris Wise wrote:
G'Day All,
Can I please have some input re Ivor's questions.
I have done all of my valves, intake and exhaust and
used some grinding wheels (Dressed the angles with a diamond tip stone
grinder in the lathe. One hell of a mess) and made some various size
mandrels for both intake and exhaust to suite the slight differences of
the guides.
I found the exhaust seats to be extremely hard and went
by the angles in the manual.
Hey Chris,
Do you know or could you find out if anyone knows what
the M14P's factory exhaust valve face and exhaust valve seat angles
should be ?
Also, please ask if operators have had their exhaust
valve seats re-cut and if so, did they encounter difficulty cutting the
seat due to the hardness ?
After hearing about your difficulties, I am
contemplating making a diamond impregnated dressing stone for this task.
Any takers ?
Is there an exchange service for overhauled cylinders ?
I have a mate who requires 3 urgently. I guess when the
leakage exceeds the starting air flow, you have to either fit an
electric start or FIX the problem, eh ?
Cheers,
Ivor Paech LAME
Un/Subscription,
Forums!
Admin.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Carb Alternative |
I took a week off and went fishing with an old school mate. Had a
blast.
Starting fuel injected M14 engines:
Very easy. If you have a boost pump ( required for fuel injection ).
3-5 seconds of prime with mixture in ICO,then mixture to full rich,
throttle cracked, ( not very much ), mags OFF, air valve and oil valve
OPEN ( if equipped ), when engine hits both mags ON, Engine should
start on 2 or 3 blades, If engine is warm, reduce the priming time.
Set throttle where the engine will run 900-1100 RPM after the propeller
comes out of high pitch until warmed up.
Monty Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: A. Dennis Savarese [mailto:dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 8:29 AM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Cc: Monty Barrett Sr
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Carb Alternative
I'm not aware of any starting issues with the FI system. There
may have been at one time. But Monty Barrett Sr. has developed a fuel
nozzle that works perfectly with the M14 and has been tested in their
engine test cell facility. I don't believe it is necessary to install
the electronic ignition with the fuel injection. Although, for maximum
efficiency and performance, both systems work very nicely together.
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 5/18/2012 8:04 AM, John Nolan wrote:
Dennis,
Is starting an issue with the fuel injection system? Is
it recommended to install the coil over system in conjunction with fuel
injection? I will contact them for more info as well?
John
Sent from my iPhone
On May 18, 2012, at 8:19 AM, "A. Dennis Savarese"
<dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Barrett Precision Engines in Tulsa, OK, the
premier US M14P engine overhaul shop, has developed fuel injection for
the M14. Works beautifully. The contact is Rhonda Bewley and I've
copied her on this email. They are great people and most definitely
know their stuff.
Barrett has also developed an outstanding
coil-over (one coil per spark plug) totally electronic ignition for the
M14.
Their telephone number is +1 918-835-1089
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 5/18/2012 2:52 AM, Anthony Hudacek wrote:
Does anyone know of a replacement or
alternative carby for the M14P?
Yak Driver.
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| Subject: | M14P Oil Check Valve |
I need the info on how to remove and inspect the oil pump check valve. Pictures
would be a big help. My oil tank leaks down at a rate just above ridiculous
and bordering on ludicrous.
Thanks,
francisbutler@mac.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373500#373500
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| Subject: | M14P Oil Check Valve |
It is not removable. The factory has a process of milling the old unit out
of the casing and installing an oversize unit. We offer overhauled exchange
oil pumps as well.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SP55
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 3:31 PM
Subject: Yak-List: M14P Oil Check Valve
I need the info on how to remove and inspect the oil pump check valve.
Pictures would be a big help. My oil tank leaks down at a rate just above
ridiculous and bordering on ludicrous.
Thanks,
francisbutler@mac.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373500#373500
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From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Monty Barrett Sr
Sent: Tuesday, 22 May 2012 12:43 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: FW: M 14 P
BPE has found the exhaust seats very hard and the best method to date has
been to grind them wet. Use a lifting spring under the stone holder so the
stone does not stop on the seat. BPE also made short stone holders so that
a Sioux stone driver can be inserted in the cylinder bore. We have plans to
unbarrel the head but to date have not done this.
Please, PLEASE! Do not grind the face of the exhaust valve at 45 Deg. This
causes a thin section under the valve head and the valve will fracture
dropping the separated head into the cylinder and generally raise havoc
inside the cylinder.
The correct angle is 46 Deg. 15 minutes. Grind the seat the same angle.
BPE has found several exhaust seats that were too wide, particularly on the
outer edge, which can also cause some grief because the valve operates at a
higher temperature than the seat and the valve then wants to seat in the
wrong place relative to the seat when the engine is up to operating
temperature.
BPE has never seen evidence of an outer narrowing angle being applied by
either Russia or Romania and at factory assemble outer narrowing may not be
needed. But good shop practices require at least 1/64 outer margin, valve
over seat.
Monty Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: A. Dennis Savarese [mailto:dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 7:44 AM
Cc: Rhonda Bewley; Monty Barrett Sr
Subject: Re: Yak-List: FW: M 14 P
Chris,'
You should contact Barrett Precision Engines in Tulsa, Oklahoma. I
guarantee you they will have the answers you need. 918-835-1089.
Outstanding US overhaul shop. They have developed and have running a
beautiful coil-over electronic ignition (one coil per spark plug) and fuel
injection setup for the M14.
Most likely you will speak to Rhonda first. Ask Rhonda if you can discuss
some technical stuff with either Monte Barrett or Allen Barrett. They will
also have cylinders for exchange. Rhonda's email address is
Rhonda@BPAENGINES.com.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 5/14/2012 4:58 PM, Chris Wise wrote:
G'Day All,
Can I please have some input re Ivor's questions.
I have done all of my valves, intake and exhaust and used some grinding
wheels (Dressed the angles with a diamond tip stone grinder in the lathe.
One hell of a mess) and made some various size mandrels for both intake and
exhaust to suite the slight differences of the guides.
I found the exhaust seats to be extremely hard and went by the angles in the
manual.
Hey Chris,
Do you know or could you find out if anyone knows what the M14P's factory
exhaust valve face and exhaust valve seat angles should be ?
Also, please ask if operators have had their exhaust valve seats re-cut and
if so, did they encounter difficulty cutting the seat due to the hardness ?
After hearing about your difficulties, I am contemplating making a diamond
impregnated dressing stone for this task.
Any takers ?
Is there an exchange service for overhauled cylinders ?
I have a mate who requires 3 urgently. I guess when the leakage exceeds the
starting air flow, you have to either fit an electric start or FIX the
problem, eh ?
Cheers,
Ivor Paech LAME
moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
moz-do-not-send="true">http://forums.matronics.com
moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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| Subject: | Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos |
Phase Two; Magneto Mystery
After preflight, 12 blades, &c., kept rear magneto switch on "0" with the rear
mag selector on "Cabin 1," and then went through two complete in-plane air supplies
trying to start the engine - I seldom have needed more than two or three
attempts to get rolling - engine never caught.
Pumped throttle, didn't pump throttle, tried different throttle positions, held
starter button three or so seconds before switching mags on, and then held starter
button in a good five more seconds after that to get the shower of sparks
good and showery. but no fire, ever.
Maybe the rear mag switch needs to be on "1+2" to start, but will, with the "cabin
1" switch activated, allow the engine to kill once the front mags are switched
to "0?"
Maybe a chainsaw to amputate rear cockpit from front ?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373520#373520
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos |
Yes, the rear mag switch must be in the 1+2 position to start from the
front cockpit.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 5/21/2012 6:37 PM, Espada wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Espada"<Espada42@yahoo.com>
>
> Phase Two; Magneto Mystery
> After preflight, 12 blades,&c., kept rear magneto switch on "0" with the rear
mag selector on "Cabin 1," and then went through two complete in-plane air supplies
trying to start the engine - I seldom have needed more than two or three
attempts to get rolling - engine never caught.
>
> Pumped throttle, didn't pump throttle, tried different throttle positions, held
starter button three or so seconds before switching mags on, and then held
starter button in a good five more seconds after that to get the shower of sparks
good and showery. but no fire, ever.
>
> Maybe the rear mag switch needs to be on "1+2" to start, but will, with the "cabin
1" switch activated, allow the engine to kill once the front mags are switched
to "0?"
>
> Maybe a chainsaw to amputate rear cockpit from front ?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373520#373520
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos |
dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
> Yes, the rear mag switch must be in the 1+2 position to start from the
> front cockpit.
> Dennis
>
> A. Dennis Savarese
> 334-285-6263
> 334-546-8182 (mobile)
> www.yak-52.com
> Skype - Yakguy1
>
>
>
[/quote]
Thank you ! You salvaged my afternoon !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373527#373527
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos |
Espada,
Please, I'm not being a smart alec here....but it sounds to me like you need
to get someone who knows something about the airplane to do a real checkout
for you. This airplane is quite a simple one, but you need to know more than
a little bit about it. There are quite a number of very savvy systems guys around.
You really do need to find such a person...and spend a bunch of time with
him (or her).
If you can arrange that, it should make you a much happier pilot AND you have
a much higher chance of keeping your body and your airplane in an undamaged
state.
Good luck,
Roger Baker________________________________________________________________
On May 21, 2012, at 4:37 PM, Espada wrote:
>
> Phase Two; Magneto Mystery
> After preflight, 12 blades, &c., kept rear magneto switch on "0" with the rear
mag selector on "Cabin 1," and then went through two complete in-plane air
supplies trying to start the engine - I seldom have needed more than two or three
attempts to get rolling - engine never caught.
>
> Pumped throttle, didn't pump throttle, tried different throttle positions, held
starter button three or so seconds before switching mags on, and then held
starter button in a good five more seconds after that to get the shower of sparks
good and showery. but no fire, ever.
>
> Maybe the rear mag switch needs to be on "1+2" to start, but will, with the "cabin
1" switch activated, allow the engine to kill once the front mags are switched
to "0?"
>
> Maybe a chainsaw to amputate rear cockpit from front ?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373520#373520
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos |
On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 5:39 PM, Espada <Espada42@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
> > Yes, the rear mag switch must be in the 1+2 position to start from the
> > front cockpit.
>
This is normally covered in a checkout in the aircraft. This is why a
thorough checkout in the airplane involves 5 hours of ground school and
cockpit familiarization before cranking the engine and taking off for first
flight. Personally, you should be able to identify each switch and
understand its function ... in the dark. :-)
> Dennis
> >
> > A. Dennis Savarese
> > 334-285-6263
> > 334-546-8182 (mobile)
> > www.yak-52.com
> > Skype - Yakguy1
> >
> >
> >
> [/quote]
>
> Thank you ! You salvaged my afternoon !
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373527#373527
>
>
--
Brian Lloyd, WB6RQN/J79BPL
3191 Western Dr.
Cameron Park, CA 95682
brian@lloyd.com
+1.767.617.1365 (Dominica)
+1.916.877.5067 (USA)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Solo startup and shutdown, re front/rear magnetos |
Thanks Brian... wish I'd had one. My plane had three owners in the US before
me, and the seller to me, a truly fine fellow, has done yeoman service in transferring
the plane to me, but he was not the beneficiary of a George Coy,
Dennis Savarese, or other similar expert in having the torch passed to him.
This forum and its most helpful members are probably why there are as many Yaks/
Nanchangs flying in the US today... otherwise, lots of the planes would have
been sold for scrap or parted out in frustration !
Thanks again to all for the help.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373542#373542
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| Subject: | Re: g-meter for sale |
Hi Keith;=0A------------ If you want a "G" meter ..
............. I have one that I bought for a customer about 5..6 yrs ago,th
at he decided he didn't want. It's just been o/h ( 6 yrs prior )... but nev
er used. Should be good. Make me an offer ??=0A---------
-------------------------
------------------ Regards;=0A---
-------------------------
-------------------------
------- Bill=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A Fro
m: keithmckinley <keith.mckinley@townisp.com>=0ATo: yak-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 8:18 PM=0ASubject: Yak-List: Re: g-meter for
y@townisp.com>=0A=0AKeep em coming. IMO this is exactly one of the things t
his list is for.=0A=0AToo many uptight people that think they own this site
....=0A=0A--------=0AKeith McKinley=0A700HS=0AKFIT=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this
topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37313
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