Yak-List Digest Archive

Mon 07/23/12


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 10:23 AM - Re: MT FW 190 Replica prop (Mark Weidhaas)
     2. 10:59 AM - Re: MT FW 190 Replica prop (Tom Elliott)
     3. 12:16 PM - M-14P valve removal (Mozam)
     4. 12:30 PM - Re: M-14P valve removal (Gill Gutierrez)
     5. 12:33 PM - Re: M-14P valve removal (Roger Kemp)
     6. 12:54 PM - Re: M-14P valve removal (A. Dennis Savarese)
     7. 01:16 PM - Re: M-14P valve removal (Gill Gutierrez)
     8. 06:45 PM - Re: M-14P valve removal (Mozam)
     9. 06:59 PM - Re: Re: M-14P valve removal (Roger Kemp M.D.)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 10:23:16 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: MT FW 190 Replica prop
    From: Mark Weidhaas <thedicepilot@gmail.com>
    I have flown now three years with the FW190 prop on my 52 after switching out from the original two bladed. Advantages: 1) Better engine cooling 2) At 100% power in formation takeoffs, I tend to have more power over the two blade and MT props 3) The have a beautiful whistle sound off the tips when taxing around the flight line. Women on the flight line tend to respond well to the whistles. ;) 4) As TJ mentioned, the prop control works well as an air break. I find that just nudging the prop forward can reduce airspeeds without dramatic power changes. It is much easier to get to gear speeds without pulling back power. 5) In a static display event when the sunlight hits the brass leading edges, it is a piece of artwork. 6) Purchasing this expensive prop is an admission to a testosterone deficiency. Disadvantages 1) All landings should be completed at prop settings of 82%. Due to the breaking action of high pitch position, landing with 100% is like a carrier landing. My first landing was a real eye opener! 2) At higher altitudes, the two and MT blades will out perform the FW190 in climbs and cross country legs. 3) The leading edges of the prop are brass. I have a slight dent from a rock that can not be repaired easily in the field. Mark "Weeds" Weidhaas RPA FAST Records Officer Please join and check out the Red Star Pilots Association Facebook Group page. http://www.facebook.com/#!/group.php?gid=101328243243736 On Sun, Jul 22, 2012 at 6:48 PM, Byron Fox <byronmfox@gmail.com> wrote: > "In fairness to MT, that F-W 190 style prop is purely for show. It is not > > suitable for anything but the most gentle of aerobatics, and gives > > far less > performance than the standard MTV-9 with the - 29 blades." > > Richard Goode > > Richard is absolutely correct. A CJ with a stock prop and engine walks > > away from our M14P equipped CJ with the FW 190 prop. I would observe, however, > > that Richard is younger than I, and consequently does not require the testosterone enhancement > > that I do at 73. Condor, Weeds and Little Wood must also have the same depleted levels. > > Blitz > > Sent from my iPhone > > * > > * > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 10:59:19 AM PST US
    From: "Tom Elliott" <N13472@aol.com>
    Subject: MT FW 190 Replica prop
    All true and you never will over shoot a rejoin again. Tom Elliott CJ-6A NX63727 777 Quartz Ave PMB 7004 Sandy Valley NV 89019 Cell 702-595-2680 From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron Fox Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2012 6:49 PM Subject: Yak-List: MT FW 190 Replica prop "In fairness to MT, that F-W 190 style prop is purely for show. It is not suitable for anything but the most gentle of aerobatics, and gives far less performance than the standard MTV-9 with the - 29 blades." Richard Goode Richard is absolutely correct. A CJ with a stock prop and engine walks away from our M14P equipped CJ with the FW 190 prop. I would observe, however, that Richard is younger than I, and consequently does not require the testosterone enhancement that I do at 73. Condor, Weeds and Little Wood must also have the same depleted levels. Blitz Sent from my iPhone


    Message 3


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    Time: 12:16:47 PM PST US
    Subject: M-14P valve removal
    From: "Mozam" <sdalton@hughes.net>
    I have two unserviceable cylinders on my work bench that I am going to sandblast, cleanup, and make into lamps for my office. I have salvaged everything off the cylinders except the valves and springs as I do not have a tool to compress the springs enough to remove the keepers. Do any of you guys have a simple shade-tree mechanic method to compress the valve springs? -Steve Dalton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379004#379004


    Message 4


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    Time: 12:30:58 PM PST US
    From: "Gill Gutierrez" <gill.g@gpimail.com>
    Subject: M-14P valve removal
    Use a long 20mm or so socket, place it over the retainer and hit with a hammer. Clips and springs will come off. Gill -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mozam Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 12:14 PM Subject: Yak-List: M-14P valve removal I have two unserviceable cylinders on my work bench that I am going to sandblast, cleanup, and make into lamps for my office. I have salvaged everything off the cylinders except the valves and springs as I do not have a tool to compress the springs enough to remove the keepers. Do any of you guys have a simple shade-tree mechanic method to compress the valve springs? -Steve Dalton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379004#379004


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:33:29 PM PST US
    From: Roger Kemp <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
    Subject: Re: M-14P valve removal
    Steve, The Dennis Savarese Anglo American Engineering technique...get a 24 mm box end wretch. Make a safety wire loop with heavy duty wire wrapped around the shank of the wretch and a similar loop around the rocker arm axle. Pry up on the open end of the wrench allowing the box end to depress the spring so the keepers fall free. Doc -----Original Message----- >From: Mozam <sdalton@hughes.net> >Sent: Jul 23, 2012 2:14 PM >To: yak-list@matronics.com >Subject: Yak-List: M-14P valve removal > > >I have two unserviceable cylinders on my work bench that I am going to sandblast, cleanup, and make into lamps for my office. I have salvaged everything off the cylinders except the valves and springs as I do not have a tool to compress the springs enough to remove the keepers. > >Do any of you guys have a simple shade-tree mechanic method to compress the valve springs? > >-Steve Dalton > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379004#379004 > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:54:34 PM PST US
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: M-14P valve removal
    Works great as long as you have the cylinder on the engine and can apply shop pressure to hold the valves in position. I'm not sure if it will work with the cylinder removed. Gill's idea might work better. Dennis A. Dennis Savarese 334-285-6263 334-546-8182 (mobile) www.yak-52.com Skype - Yakguy1 On 7/23/2012 2:31 PM, Roger Kemp wrote: > > Steve, > The Dennis Savarese Anglo American Engineering technique...get a 24 mm box end wretch. Make a safety wire loop with heavy duty wire wrapped around the shank of the wretch and a similar loop around the rocker arm axle. Pry up on the open end of the wrench allowing the box end to depress the spring so the keepers fall free. > Doc > > > -----Original Message----- >> From: Mozam <sdalton@hughes.net> >> Sent: Jul 23, 2012 2:14 PM >> To: yak-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Yak-List: M-14P valve removal >> >> >> I have two unserviceable cylinders on my work bench that I am going to sandblast, cleanup, and make into lamps for my office. I have salvaged everything off the cylinders except the valves and springs as I do not have a tool to compress the springs enough to remove the keepers. >> >> Do any of you guys have a simple shade-tree mechanic method to compress the valve springs? >> >> -Steve Dalton >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379004#379004 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:16:45 PM PST US
    From: "Gill Gutierrez" <gill.g@gpimail.com>
    Subject: M-14P valve removal
    If one hit with hammer doesn't work, stand the cylinder up on a 2x4 or 4x4 to keep valves in place and repeat socket and hammer approach. Gill -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 12:50 PM Subject: Re: Yak-List: M-14P valve removal --> <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> Works great as long as you have the cylinder on the engine and can apply shop pressure to hold the valves in position. I'm not sure if it will work with the cylinder removed. Gill's idea might work better. Dennis A. Dennis Savarese 334-285-6263 334-546-8182 (mobile) www.yak-52.com Skype - Yakguy1 On 7/23/2012 2:31 PM, Roger Kemp wrote: > > Steve, > The Dennis Savarese Anglo American Engineering technique...get a 24 mm box end wretch. Make a safety wire loop with heavy duty wire wrapped around the shank of the wretch and a similar loop around the rocker arm axle. Pry up on the open end of the wrench allowing the box end to depress the spring so the keepers fall free. > Doc > > > -----Original Message----- >> From: Mozam <sdalton@hughes.net> >> Sent: Jul 23, 2012 2:14 PM >> To: yak-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Yak-List: M-14P valve removal >> >> >> I have two unserviceable cylinders on my work bench that I am going to sandblast, cleanup, and make into lamps for my office. I have salvaged everything off the cylinders except the valves and springs as I do not have a tool to compress the springs enough to remove the keepers. >> >> Do any of you guys have a simple shade-tree mechanic method to compress the valve springs? >> >> -Steve Dalton >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379004#379004 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:45:21 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: M-14P valve removal
    From: "Mozam" <sdalton@hughes.net>
    Awesome guys, worked like a champ. I found it worked best with a 12" long 2x4 in the cylinder, lay the cylinder on its side, and jam the free end of the 2x4 against my bench's vise. This allowed the keepers to more easily fall out than when upright. Question: are the intake/exhaust springs, washers, keepers, etc all identical, or exhaust and intake specific? Thanks again. I'll post a picture of my expensive lamps when I finish them. -Steve Dalton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379045#379045


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:59:47 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: M-14P valve removal
    From: "Roger Kemp M.D." <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
    Ingenuity out of the necessity of need. Doc Sent from my iPad On Jul 23, 2012, at 8:42 PM, "Mozam" <sdalton@hughes.net> wrote: > > Awesome guys, worked like a champ. > > I found it worked best with a 12" long 2x4 in the cylinder, lay the cylinder on its side, and jam the free end of the 2x4 against my bench's vise. This allowed the keepers to more easily fall out than when upright. > > Question: are the intake/exhaust springs, washers, keepers, etc all identical, or exhaust and intake specific? > > Thanks again. I'll post a picture of my expensive lamps when I finish them. > > -Steve Dalton > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=379045#379045 > > > > > > > > > >




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