Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:36 AM - Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (moose8154)
2. 03:16 AM - Re: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (Jan Mevis)
3. 04:18 AM - Re: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (A. Dennis Savarese)
4. 04:35 AM - Re: obstruction to rotatation (James Goolsby)
5. 04:53 AM - Re: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (Jan Mevis)
6. 06:08 AM - Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (Vic)
7. 06:32 AM - Re: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (Jan Mevis)
8. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
9. 08:16 AM - Re: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (doug sapp)
10. 08:22 AM - Re: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (George Coy)
11. 08:37 AM - Re: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
12. 09:26 AM - Re: obstruction to rotatation (Richard Goode)
13. 09:54 AM - B&C Alternators (George Coy)
14. 10:28 AM - Re: B&C Alternators (doug sapp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
No spark whatsoever...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381321#381321
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
Then it's the shower-of-sparks-device.
These things are getting old, I'd replace it with George Coy's electronic
device.
Jan
On 20/08/12 11:33, "moose8154" <olivier_langeard@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>No spark whatsoever...
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381321#381321
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
Before you assume it is a starting coil failure, do you hear a 'buzz'
coming from the starting coil assembly when you press the start button?
Next, remove the cover on the starting coil assembly and have someone
press the start button (remember, main air off and all air bled from the
system using the brake handle) and you watch the points on the starting
coil to see if they are arcing. If they are, replace the wire. It is by
far more common for the starting coil wire to go bad than the starting
coil itself. Especially if it is one of the original wires because the
rubber on the wire deteriorates and cracks causing the wire to arc to
the shielding (ground). If the points are not arcing, then by all
means replace the starting coil with George Coy's unit.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 8/20/2012 5:13 AM, Jan Mevis wrote:
>
> Then it's the shower-of-sparks-device.
> These things are getting old, I'd replace it with George Coy's electronic
> device.
>
> Jan
>
> On 20/08/12 11:33, "moose8154" <olivier_langeard@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> No spark whatsoever...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381321#381321
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: obstruction to rotatation |
I believe Richard is mostly right. However I believe he mean the "scraper r
ing" which is at the bottom of the piston. Being English, he might have dif
ferent name for it. ;-). Anyway the effect is the same. The rod may already
be bent, shorting it's length, allowing the bottom ring to drop below the c
ylinder bore, thus preventing the piston from moving back up. There is very
little distance between where the scraper ring stops its downward movement a
nd the bottom of the bore. Forcing the engine to turn will most likely brea
k the ring, "freeing" the engine BUT the damage is already done i.e. a bent r
od. As was pointed out the engine may run BUT only for a little while.
You can determine which cylinder by removing plugs, and measuring which pist
on is lowest. Remove that cylinder. That will free up the engine without f
urther damage to the engine, than you can check and maybe replace the rod. T
han again it may be something entirely different!
GOD! Don't you just love aviation?
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
Sent from my iPad from some where on The 3rd rock from the Sun.
On Aug 19, 2012, at 9:53 PM, "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com
> wrote:
> I would be fairly sure that the problem is hydraulic lock.
>
> What often happens is that the weakest point in the cylinder assembly is t
he connecting rod. It attempts to push the piston down; the piston can't mov
e and so the connecting rod bends. This brings the piston a little closer to
the crankshaft, so when the piston next rises (one is of course, typically t
alking about one of the three bottom pistons), the oil control ring will pop
out of the cylinder, preventing the piston going back down, thus jamming th
e engine.
>
> If the engine continues to run, it will then typically break the piston ri
ng and then continue to work =93 for a bit!
>
> Richard Goode
>
> Rhodds Farm
> Lyonshall
> Hereford
> HR5 3LW
> United Kingdom
> Tel: +94 (0) 81 241 5137 (Sri Lanka)
> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
> www.russianaeros.com
> I=99m currently in Sri Lanka but this Mail is working,and my local p
hone is +94 779 132 160.
>
>
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe Howse
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 2:12 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: obstruction to rotatation
>
> yakers
> Anyone have experienced a solid mechanical resistance to rotation on M14P,
(not hydraulic resistance) when attempting to pull through prior to startin
g.
> Engine has approx. 400hrs since new.
> Flown regularly including Oshkosh and return last year.
> Parked after last flight with no problems one week ago.
> I suspect gear box problem, as very little play at prop.
> Any ideas?
>
> Joe
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by Invictawiz MailScanner, and is
> believed to be clean.
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
As usual, that makes perfect sense, Dennis!
Jan
On 20/08/12 13:15, "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
><dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
>
>Before you assume it is a starting coil failure, do you hear a 'buzz'
>coming from the starting coil assembly when you press the start button?
>Next, remove the cover on the starting coil assembly and have someone
>press the start button (remember, main air off and all air bled from the
>system using the brake handle) and you watch the points on the starting
>coil to see if they are arcing. If they are, replace the wire. It is by
>far more common for the starting coil wire to go bad than the starting
>coil itself. Especially if it is one of the original wires because the
>rubber on the wire deteriorates and cracks causing the wire to arc to
>the shielding (ground). If the points are not arcing, then by all
>means replace the starting coil with George Coy's unit.
>Dennis
>
>A. Dennis Savarese
>334-285-6263
>334-546-8182 (mobile)
>www.yak-52.com
>Skype - Yakguy1
>
>On 8/20/2012 5:13 AM, Jan Mevis wrote:
>>
>> Then it's the shower-of-sparks-device.
>> These things are getting old, I'd replace it with George Coy's
>>electronic
>> device.
>>
>> Jan
>>
>> On 20/08/12 11:33, "moose8154" <olivier_langeard@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>><olivier_langeard@hotmail.com>
>>>
>>> No spark whatsoever...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381321#381321
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
Hello Olivier,
just in case you may prefer the old style non electronic buzzer coil, military
grade, real fat spark, I could supply them at $ 100.- inc. shipping. They turn
up a few times a year, new old stock and work perfectly - a bit more weight but
a lot more durable, see below :
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=74605&highlight=buzzer+coil
Cheers
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381338#381338
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
Nice stuff!
Jan
On 20/08/12 15:05, "Vic" <vicmolnar@aol.com> wrote:
>
>Hello Olivier,
>
>just in case you may prefer the old style non electronic buzzer coil,
>military grade, real fat spark, I could supply them at $ 100.- inc.
>shipping. They turn up a few times a year, new old stock and work
>perfectly - a bit more weight but a lot more durable, see below :
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=74605&highlight=buzzer+coil
>
>Cheers
>Vic
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381338#381338
>
>
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
The starting coil on both the YAK-50 and the CJ6A are identical.
Totally interchangeable. The spark coils develop continuous spark
energy when the starting button is depressed. They require 28 Volts
D.C. to be applied before they will operate, thus good troubleshooting
procedure is to first make sure that you are getting 28 VDC TO THE
STARTING COIL ITSELF (!!!) before you replace it with a new one. This
is not too hard to do, and if you look at it, this should become pretty
obvious.
Next: A coil like this does not operate with pure "D.C." per se.
Instead it needs some form of Alternating Current" to make it work.
This allows the coils magnetic field to move ... as in expand and
collapse.... so that it passes through the "coil of wires" in order to
INDUCE energy into the secondary winding and ramp it up to really
serious voltage. Enough to make a spark jump through the air. This is
done with a very simple design called a "buzzer".
A "buzzer" is simply a small relay type of device wired so that when the
contacts are closed, voltage is supplied to the RELAY coil, (not the
main coil which makes the high voltage, but a much smaller one) which
then creates its own magnetic field pulling the contacts open. This
breaks the circuit, the magnetic field goes away, and the contacts close
thus completing the circuit again and the cycle repeats. This creates a
BUZZING sound when it is operating. This buzzer contact is tapped and
then feeds the MAIN coil. This then creates a SQUARE WAVE of voltage
fed to the main coil (On and off. On and off) which is in fact a form
of AC energy, allowing the coil to create a continuous output (more or
less).
The "contacts" in the "Shower of Sparks Coil" (or whatever you want to
call it) are in fact easily visible and are in fact adjustable. There
is a little wheel on one end that sets the "gap" between these points.
If memory serves me .... you can take off an inspection plate and get at
these points yourself. Use some kind of marker so that you can put
things back where they were to begin with, and try rotating this wheel
to adjust the point gap. If the unit starts working again (buzzing),
you can adjust that gap for the biggest spark you can get at a plug.
Of course replacement is very easy, and I also *HIGHLY* recommend George
Coy's replacement, however ... if you want to go with the exact original
also check Doug Sapp. He used to sell them for the CJ-6A, and as I
said, those are identical to what is used in YAK's and Sukhoi's for that
matter.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
Savarese
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting
<dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
Before you assume it is a starting coil failure, do you hear a 'buzz'
coming from the starting coil assembly when you press the start button?
Next, remove the cover on the starting coil assembly and have someone
press the start button (remember, main air off and all air bled from the
system using the brake handle) and you watch the points on the starting
coil to see if they are arcing. If they are, replace the wire. It is by
far more common for the starting coil wire to go bad than the starting
coil itself. Especially if it is one of the original wires because the
rubber on the wire deteriorates and cracks causing the wire to arc to
the shielding (ground). If the points are not arcing, then by all
means replace the starting coil with George Coy's unit.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 8/20/2012 5:13 AM, Jan Mevis wrote:
>
> Then it's the shower-of-sparks-device.
> These things are getting old, I'd replace it with George Coy's
electronic
> device.
>
> Jan
>
> On 20/08/12 11:33, "moose8154" <olivier_langeard@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
<olivier_langeard@hotmail.com>
>>
>> No spark whatsoever...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381321#381321
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
I have the stock Russian/Chinese boost coils in stock. Contact me off line
if I can help.
Best from Omak,
Doug
On Mon, Aug 20, 2012 at 6:05 AM, Vic <vicmolnar@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Olivier,
>
> just in case you may prefer the old style non electronic buzzer coil,
> military grade, real fat spark, I could supply them at $ 100.- inc.
> shipping. They turn up a few times a year, new old stock and work perfectly
> - a bit more weight but a lot more durable, see below :
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=74605&highlight=buzzer+coil
>
> Cheers
> Vic
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381338#381338
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
Yes a great system! It worked well in the early Model"T" Fords. They had 4
spark coils lined up, one for each cylinder and you could see them buzzing
away while driving. Not giving away my age, but I once drove one from New
York City to Vermont.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G
CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting
--> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
The starting coil on both the YAK-50 and the CJ6A are identical.
Totally interchangeable. The spark coils develop continuous spark energy
when the starting button is depressed. They require 28 Volts D.C. to be
applied before they will operate, thus good troubleshooting procedure is to
first make sure that you are getting 28 VDC TO THE STARTING COIL ITSELF
(!!!) before you replace it with a new one. This is not too hard to do, and
if you look at it, this should become pretty obvious.
Next: A coil like this does not operate with pure "D.C." per se.
Instead it needs some form of Alternating Current" to make it work.
This allows the coils magnetic field to move ... as in expand and
collapse.... so that it passes through the "coil of wires" in order to
INDUCE energy into the secondary winding and ramp it up to really serious
voltage. Enough to make a spark jump through the air. This is done with a
very simple design called a "buzzer".
A "buzzer" is simply a small relay type of device wired so that when the
contacts are closed, voltage is supplied to the RELAY coil, (not the main
coil which makes the high voltage, but a much smaller one) which then
creates its own magnetic field pulling the contacts open. This breaks the
circuit, the magnetic field goes away, and the contacts close thus
completing the circuit again and the cycle repeats. This creates a BUZZING
sound when it is operating. This buzzer contact is tapped and then feeds
the MAIN coil. This then creates a SQUARE WAVE of voltage fed to the main
coil (On and off. On and off) which is in fact a form of AC energy,
allowing the coil to create a continuous output (more or less).
The "contacts" in the "Shower of Sparks Coil" (or whatever you want to call
it) are in fact easily visible and are in fact adjustable. There is a
little wheel on one end that sets the "gap" between these points.
If memory serves me .... you can take off an inspection plate and get at
these points yourself. Use some kind of marker so that you can put things
back where they were to begin with, and try rotating this wheel to adjust
the point gap. If the unit starts working again (buzzing), you can adjust
that gap for the biggest spark you can get at a plug.
Of course replacement is very easy, and I also *HIGHLY* recommend George
Coy's replacement, however ... if you want to go with the exact original
also check Doug Sapp. He used to sell them for the CJ-6A, and as I said,
those are identical to what is used in YAK's and Sukhoi's for that matter.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting
<dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
Before you assume it is a starting coil failure, do you hear a 'buzz'
coming from the starting coil assembly when you press the start button?
Next, remove the cover on the starting coil assembly and have someone press
the start button (remember, main air off and all air bled from the
system using the brake handle) and you watch the points on the starting coil
to see if they are arcing. If they are, replace the wire. It is by
far more common for the starting coil wire to go bad than the starting coil
itself. Especially if it is one of the original wires because the rubber on
the wire deteriorates and cracks causing the wire to arc to
the shielding (ground). If the points are not arcing, then by all
means replace the starting coil with George Coy's unit.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 8/20/2012 5:13 AM, Jan Mevis wrote:
>
> Then it's the shower-of-sparks-device.
> These things are getting old, I'd replace it with George Coy's
electronic
> device.
>
> Jan
>
> On 20/08/12 11:33, "moose8154" <olivier_langeard@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
<olivier_langeard@hotmail.com>
>>
>> No spark whatsoever...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381321#381321
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting |
George, as a kid, my Mom would always complain about the squirrels
eating the food out of her birdfeeders. I wired one of those things up
using two parallel wires to the birdfeeder tray. I told my Mom to turn
on the switch when she saw the squirrel sitting there pilfering the
seeds and such. That little sucker would go straight up! I mean, do
not pass go! That squirrel launched like an Atlas Rocket!
My Mom loved this.
Of course she didn't love it when I wired the same device up to the
metal studs in the wooden seats used in my Junior High School
auditorium. It had the same effect on a lot of students when I fired it
up during a sports award ceremony. Got suspended for that move ... well
worth it though.
That was the beginning of my career in electronics.
Model T Spark Coil... gotta love it!
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Coy
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 11:24 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting
Yes a great system! It worked well in the early Model"T" Fords. They had
4
spark coils lined up, one for each cylinder and you could see them
buzzing
away while driving. Not giving away my age, but I once drove one from
New
York City to Vermont.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich,
Mark G
CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting
--> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
The starting coil on both the YAK-50 and the CJ6A are identical.
Totally interchangeable. The spark coils develop continuous spark
energy
when the starting button is depressed. They require 28 Volts D.C. to be
applied before they will operate, thus good troubleshooting procedure is
to
first make sure that you are getting 28 VDC TO THE STARTING COIL ITSELF
(!!!) before you replace it with a new one. This is not too hard to do,
and
if you look at it, this should become pretty obvious.
Next: A coil like this does not operate with pure "D.C." per se.
Instead it needs some form of Alternating Current" to make it work.
This allows the coils magnetic field to move ... as in expand and
collapse.... so that it passes through the "coil of wires" in order to
INDUCE energy into the secondary winding and ramp it up to really
serious
voltage. Enough to make a spark jump through the air. This is done with
a
very simple design called a "buzzer".
A "buzzer" is simply a small relay type of device wired so that when the
contacts are closed, voltage is supplied to the RELAY coil, (not the
main
coil which makes the high voltage, but a much smaller one) which then
creates its own magnetic field pulling the contacts open. This breaks
the
circuit, the magnetic field goes away, and the contacts close thus
completing the circuit again and the cycle repeats. This creates a
BUZZING
sound when it is operating. This buzzer contact is tapped and then
feeds
the MAIN coil. This then creates a SQUARE WAVE of voltage fed to the
main
coil (On and off. On and off) which is in fact a form of AC energy,
allowing the coil to create a continuous output (more or less).
The "contacts" in the "Shower of Sparks Coil" (or whatever you want to
call
it) are in fact easily visible and are in fact adjustable. There is a
little wheel on one end that sets the "gap" between these points.
If memory serves me .... you can take off an inspection plate and get at
these points yourself. Use some kind of marker so that you can put
things
back where they were to begin with, and try rotating this wheel to
adjust
the point gap. If the unit starts working again (buzzing), you can
adjust
that gap for the biggest spark you can get at a plug.
Of course replacement is very easy, and I also *HIGHLY* recommend George
Coy's replacement, however ... if you want to go with the exact original
also check Doug Sapp. He used to sell them for the CJ-6A, and as I
said,
those are identical to what is used in YAK's and Sukhoi's for that
matter.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
Savarese
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Yak-50 ignition troubleshooting
<dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
Before you assume it is a starting coil failure, do you hear a 'buzz'
coming from the starting coil assembly when you press the start button?
Next, remove the cover on the starting coil assembly and have someone
press
the start button (remember, main air off and all air bled from the
system using the brake handle) and you watch the points on the starting
coil
to see if they are arcing. If they are, replace the wire. It is by
far more common for the starting coil wire to go bad than the starting
coil
itself. Especially if it is one of the original wires because the
rubber on
the wire deteriorates and cracks causing the wire to arc to
the shielding (ground). If the points are not arcing, then by all
means replace the starting coil with George Coy's unit.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 8/20/2012 5:13 AM, Jan Mevis wrote:
>
> Then it's the shower-of-sparks-device.
> These things are getting old, I'd replace it with George Coy's
electronic
> device.
>
> Jan
>
> On 20/08/12 11:33, "moose8154" <olivier_langeard@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
<olivier_langeard@hotmail.com>
>>
>> No spark whatsoever...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381321#381321
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | obstruction to rotatation |
Further to my earlier posting on this topic, I would not totally rule out a
gearbox problem, but that is almost impossible to occur in a stationary
engine!
I have known of two cases of gearbox failure, in both cases satellite years
breaking up, and in both cases the gearbox was absolutely locked solid, and
no movement at all in the prop. If the prop can move, even a small amount,
that is play in the gearbox which means that it is okay and the problem is
almost certainly with a piston/cylinder.
Richard Goode
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe Howse
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 2:12 AM
Subject: Yak-List: obstruction to rotatation
yakers
Anyone have experienced a solid mechanical resistance to rotation on M14P,
(not hydraulic resistance) when attempting to pull through prior to
starting.
Engine has approx. 400hrs since new.
Flown regularly including Oshkosh and return last year.
Parked after last flight with no problems one week ago.
I suspect gear box problem, as very little play at prop.
Any ideas?
Joe
Joe
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B&C has changed the drive shaft for their alternators from a metal unit to a
molded unit. This is to prevent the excessive ware of the splines. It also
prevents the drive shaft from wearing on the "frost Plug" in the alternator
drive. They are offering free replacement kits for 35 amp and 50 amp
alternators. If you bought one through CAS or Motorstar or GESOCO then let
us know and we will ship the kit. B&C has notified all of their customers
that they could identify. This notice is to let anyone else know in case
they were missed.
George Coy
CAS Ltd.
714 Airport Rd.
Swanton VT 05488
802-868-5633 off
802-363-5782 cell
802-868-4465 Fax
<mailto:george.coy@gmail.com> george.coy@gmail.com
<http://coyafct.com/> http://coyafct.com/
SKYPE george.coy
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: B&C Alternators |
George and all,
Timely post, I received 4 drives from B&C just this morning. If you have
purchased a B&C alt from me in the past please let me know and I will
forward you one of the new style drives.
Best,
Doug
On Mon, Aug 20, 2012 at 9:56 AM, George Coy <george.coy@gmail.com> wrote:
> B&C has changed the drive shaft for their alternators from a metal unit t
o
> a molded unit. This is to prevent the excessive ware of the splines. It
> also prevents the drive shaft from wearing on the =93frost Plug=94 in the
> alternator drive. They are offering free replacement kits for 35 amp and
50
> amp alternators. If you bought one through CAS or Motorstar or GESOCO th
en
> let us know and we will ship the kit. B&C has notified all of their
> customers that they could identify. This notice is to let anyone else kno
w
> in case they were missed. ****
>
> ** **
>
> George Coy****
>
> CAS Ltd.****
>
> 714 Airport Rd.****
>
> Swanton VT 05488****
>
> 802-868-5633 off****
>
> 802-363-5782 cell****
>
> 802-868-4465 Fax****
>
> george.coy@gmail.com****
>
> http://coyafct.com/****
>
> SKYPE george.coy****
>
> ** **
>
> *
>
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> *
>
>
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