Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:49 AM - Re: Brake Cable (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
2. 04:07 PM - How to remove a Carburetor (Thomas McKeon)
3. 04:42 PM - Re: How to remove a Carburetor (cjpilot710@aol.com)
4. 05:11 PM - Re: Brake Cable (Bill Geipel)
5. 06:48 PM - Re: Brake Cable (George Coy)
6. 07:13 PM - Re: How to remove a Carburetor (Roger Kemp M.D.)
7. 09:56 PM - Re: CJ6 primer (barryhancock)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
My 50 was converted to Hyd toe brakes with Cleveland wheels and brakes
by Les who sadly has since passed away. One heck of a guy. In any
case, I am not sure but I think George Coy just might be able to do the
same thing.
Not that this is the answer to your cable issue, which your message is a
good reminder of!
However, wheel landings on a short runway with these brakes is just a
piece of cake as compared to the pneumatic original version. That, and
you don't use air anymore taxing around, so I always have a good full 50
atmos tank when I go to start next time.
It is probably the best mod I have ever experienced for the YAK.
Dennis's plug and wire mod comes darn close, but hyd brakes are just "da
sh_t". :-) That and now I can get tires and brake parts ANYWHERE.
Worth every single penny.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NapeOne@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 20:23
Subject: Yak-List: Brake Cable
Preparing to leave the Gadsden clinic the other day, I was doing my
runup in the runup area , pointed at the cheapest object, I heard a pop
and the plane (Yak 50) rolled forward. I turned the engine off with the
mags.
The brake cable had broken at the lever end. This was a potential
disaster. It could have happened in a crowded area. This is a single
point failure item that can have disastrous consequences.
At least a through look during annual inspection and a replacement every
five years?
David H.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | How to remove a Carburetor |
I am trying to remove the carburetor from my CJ-6 Housai engine. There are
four nuts at the top of the carb that hold it onto the engine. At least t
wo of them (on the port side) are extremely difficult to reach due to the r
est of the engine being in the way (cylinder=2C air intake tube=2C etc.) C
an anyone give me any advice on how to reach these nuts? I am trying to re
move as little of the engine as possible. Has anyone done this before? Wh
at else did you have to remove to gain access to the carburetor?
Thanks=2C
Tom
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How to remove a Carburetor |
Tom,
Maybe George or Dennis will check me on this. It is very easy to remove
the "Y" exhaust stacks and the intake tube of the number 5 cylinder. Makes
getting to the carburetor nuts possible. When the engine is normally
assembled, the cylinders are put on and than the carb. After that, next is the
intake tubes, than exhaust stacks. If you have the proper tools, this
would only take :15 to :20 minutes at most. I hope my memory serves me right.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 10/17/2012 7:07:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
tmckeon79@hotmail.com writes:
I am trying to remove the carburetor from my CJ-6 Housai engine. There
are four nuts at the top of the carb that hold it onto the engine. At least
two of them (on the port side) are extremely difficult to reach due to the
rest of the engine being in the way (cylinder, air intake tube, etc.) Can
anyone give me any advice on how to reach these nuts? I am trying to
remove as little of the engine as possible. Has anyone done this before? What
else did you have to remove to gain access to the carburetor?
Thanks,
Tom
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
How much?
Bill
On Oct 17, 2012, at 9:45 AM, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
> My 50 was converted to Hyd toe brakes with Cleveland wheels and brakes
> by Les who sadly has since passed away. One heck of a guy. In any
> case, I am not sure but I think George Coy just might be able to do the
> same thing.
>
> Not that this is the answer to your cable issue, which your message is a
> good reminder of!
>
> However, wheel landings on a short runway with these brakes is just a
> piece of cake as compared to the pneumatic original version. That, and
> you don't use air anymore taxing around, so I always have a good full 50
> atmos tank when I go to start next time.
>
> It is probably the best mod I have ever experienced for the YAK.
> Dennis's plug and wire mod comes darn close, but hyd brakes are just "da
> sh_t". :-) That and now I can get tires and brake parts ANYWHERE.
> Worth every single penny.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> NapeOne@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 20:23
> To: Yak-List@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Brake Cable
>
> Preparing to leave the Gadsden clinic the other day, I was doing my
> runup in the runup area , pointed at the cheapest object, I heard a pop
> and the plane (Yak 50) rolled forward. I turned the engine off with the
> mags.
> The brake cable had broken at the lever end. This was a potential
> disaster. It could have happened in a crowded area. This is a single
> point failure item that can have disastrous consequences.
> At least a through look during annual inspection and a replacement every
> five years?
> David H.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Contact us off list
George
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 17, 2012, at 8:08 PM, Bill Geipel <czech6@mesanetworks.net> wrote:
>
> How much?
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> On Oct 17, 2012, at 9:45 AM, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
>>
>> My 50 was converted to Hyd toe brakes with Cleveland wheels and brakes
>> by Les who sadly has since passed away. One heck of a guy. In any
>> case, I am not sure but I think George Coy just might be able to do the
>> same thing.
>>
>> Not that this is the answer to your cable issue, which your message is a
>> good reminder of!
>>
>> However, wheel landings on a short runway with these brakes is just a
>> piece of cake as compared to the pneumatic original version. That, and
>> you don't use air anymore taxing around, so I always have a good full 50
>> atmos tank when I go to start next time.
>>
>> It is probably the best mod I have ever experienced for the YAK.
>> Dennis's plug and wire mod comes darn close, but hyd brakes are just "da
>> sh_t". :-) That and now I can get tires and brake parts ANYWHERE.
>> Worth every single penny.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> NapeOne@aol.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 20:23
>> To: Yak-List@matronics.com
>> Subject: Yak-List: Brake Cable
>>
>> Preparing to leave the Gadsden clinic the other day, I was doing my
>> runup in the runup area , pointed at the cheapest object, I heard a pop
>> and the plane (Yak 50) rolled forward. I turned the engine off with the
>> mags.
>> The brake cable had broken at the lever end. This was a potential
>> disaster. It could have happened in a crowded area. This is a single
>> point failure item that can have disastrous consequences.
>> At least a through look during annual inspection and a replacement every
>> five years?
>> David H.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How to remove a Carburetor |
Pull the intake tubes on cylinders #5 & 6 then the access will much easier. T
he Housai should not be much different than the M-14. You will need to take t
he base plate for the air filter off of the throat of the carb so that a 12 i
nch socket extension can pass up the back of the sump between the cylinders e
asier that way.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 17, 2012, at 6:39 PM, cjpilot710@aol.com wrote:
> Tom,
>
> Maybe George or Dennis will check me on this. It is very easy to remove t
he "Y" exhaust stacks and the intake tube of the number 5 cylinder. Makes g
etting to the carburetor nuts possible. When the engine is normally assembl
ed, the cylinders are put on and than the carb. After that, next is the int
ake tubes, than exhaust stacks. If you have the proper tools, this would on
ly take :15 to :20 minutes at most. I hope my memory serves me right.
>
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
> In a message dated 10/17/2012 7:07:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tmckeon7
9@hotmail.com writes:
> I am trying to remove the carburetor from my CJ-6 Housai engine. There ar
e four nuts at the top of the carb that hold it onto the engine. At least t
wo of them (on the port side) are extremely difficult to reach due to the re
st of the engine being in the way (cylinder, air intake tube, etc.) Can any
one give me any advice on how to reach these nuts? I am trying to remove as
little of the engine as possible. Has anyone done this before? What else d
id you have to remove to gain access to the carburetor?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
> ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?Yak-List
> s.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> p://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
While I agree that the seal probably could use replacing based on the stated information,
also remember that the collar nut that secures the assembly effects
how much friction is on the primer. If it is gorilla tight, it can certainly
make the primer a bugger to operate. Make sure that has proper tension, also.
Happy Flying,
Barry
--------
Barry Hancock
Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
(877) 869-6458
www.worldwidewarbirds.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385606#385606
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|