Yak-List Digest Archive

Sun 08/11/13


Total Messages Posted: 2



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:19 AM - Re: Long term engine storage feedback (Andy Hawes)
     2. 11:44 AM - Re: M14PF (Andy Hawes)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:19:53 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Long term engine storage feedback
    From: Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net>
    Thanks Gil -- When I get to it (operative word: "when") I'll do the seal for sure. I'd like to think the oil that was poured into the cylinders could fight off any rust, but again, I've never been down this road before. Thanks again for the feedback -- Andy On Aug 10, 2013, at 9:00 AM, Jill Gernetzke wrote: > > > Andy, > > We have had a lot of engines come through our shop that have been in > longterm storage and here is what I have seen: > > 1. Richard is correct. The cylinder walls are going to be the problem > area. If you rotate the prop shaft and look inside of the cylinder, you may > see a patch of rust in the barrel. Sometimes, it is surface rust but we > have pulled suspect cylinders and found the corrosion to be deeper than what > could be removed with a hone. This has been more the case with factory > overhauled engines than new manufacture. (Caution: If you rotate the prop > shaft, you will disrupt the preservation process in the carb, air > compressor, mags and cylinders.) > > 2. I advise my customers to replace the prop shaft seal on new, old stock > engines that have been sitting for 7-8+ years. This is recommended for > convenience. The last thing a new engine owner wants is a leaking prop > shaft seal, so I automatically change this on the engines we sell. (The > Russian rubber does not hold up well.) It is also inexpensive. > > 3. When we have the nosecase off, it is not uncommon to see some light > corrosion on the cast magnesium case parts. > > Closely follow the depreservation process in the maintenance manual when you > are ready to use the engine. Your first oil change should be pretty quick > after the first runs, as the preservative oil thickens with time. > > The dessicant in the spark plug holes is very good. Years ago, an outfit in > Kankakee advertised the 14mm plugs but I have never been able to get my > hands on them. > > Pappy's oil consumption numbers are consistent with what we are seeing with > our high compression pistons/rings. (We also provide stock compression.) > > Jill > M-14P, Inc. > > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 11:44:27 AM PST US
    From: Andy Hawes <andy717@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: M14PF
    Thanks for the advice Jim. Can't wait to get at her, but forever a year away . . On Aug 9, 2013, at 2:33 PM, cjpilot710@aol.com wrote: > I don't remember the times but the manual had max times depending on where the engine is stored. But hearing where you have it stored, I have to agree with Cliff, don't worry about it. With any engine I recommend a real good filter (20 microns or less). Simply keep an eye on it and your chip detector. BTW there is a drain screw on top of the carb, for draining the preservative. It is the only one not safety wired. MAKE SURE YOU SAFETY WIRE IT AFTER DEPRESERVING IT. Not doing so, will cause an engine failure. > > Jim "Pappy" Goolsby > > In a message dated 8/9/2013 12:27:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, andy717@comcast.net writes: > Speaking of engine life . . . > > In my never ending long distance approach to building an airplane and somehow raise a family, work, and coach baseball, I am growing more and more concerned about rust or preservation issues with my stock M14P 0 time rebuild. Yes it is preserved as completed by Motorstar, Bacau - Romania, however, as it sits now for 7 coming on 8 years in my insulated but not sealed home shop -- Nashville, TN -- I was hoping to get success stories from folks who have come across similar time frames when running for the first time. I keep changing out desiccant bags installed on shelves inside the wood crate on a fairly regular basis, but with the Nashville humidity, I still stay worried. I would think the plastic (4mil?) wrap, brown thick paper, oil in and over the engine, desiccant plugs, etc would do the trick, but I've never been down this road before. > > I think I read one thread here about a fella that de-preserved and ran successfully a similar engine and time frame (12 years?), but would like to hear from other folks their take on this issue. > > Although I believe the value of the engine sitting on the shop floor has outperformed the stock market, it aint worth a hill of beans if she doesn't fire. Next time I think I'll wait on the engine until AFTER there is a built airframe to hang it on. > > I've asked Cliff Coy about this every couple years, and he keeps saying in effect, don't worry -- I appreciate his experience and advice over the years, but easier said than done. > > Thanks for any advice gentlemen -- > > > Andy Hawes > > >




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