Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:13 AM - Hydraulic Lock Prevention (Walter Lannon)
2. 09:36 AM - Yak 50 Parts / Transport (Todd McCutchan)
3. 09:50 AM - Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention (dabear)
4. 11:53 AM - Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention (LawnDart)
5. 02:36 PM - Re: CJ Oil Cooler Drain - Can't Remove (keithmckinley)
6. 07:14 PM - Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention (Joe Howse)
7. 10:51 PM - Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention (Byron Fox)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Hydraulic Lock Prevention |
Gentlemen;
Would greatly appreciate your comments on this subject.
Both the Huosai and M14P (and probably the whole Ivchenko series) are
notoriously bad in this area.
I have not been too keen on oil shut-off valves in the past but now am
convinced it is necessary. Any suggestions on valve and systems to
purchase?
Is an auxiliary oil scavenge pump a necessity? Or will a standard
post-flight scavenge run suffice given that oil from the tank will be
closed off?
Thanks;
Walt
Message 2
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| Subject: | Yak 50 Parts / Transport |
I am looking for the following for the Yak 50:
1. Parts
a. Gear box castings
b. Ailerons (L &R)
c. Wing ribs
d. Rudder
e. Wing tips (L & R)
f. Gear legs
2. Transport (to fit inside a 26' box truck)
a. "false" gear
b. Fuselage cradle
c. Wing cradle
d. Horizontal / vertical stab cradle
e. Elevator cradle
I am also looking for recommended repair shops who may specialize in the Yak
50.
Kind regards,
Todd McCutchan
Fast Aircraft
T-34A - N134FA
KDVT Hangar 42-06
Cell - 260.402.1740
Email: <mailto:todd@fastaircraft.com> todd@fastaircraft.com
Skype: tmccutchan
Web: <http://www.fastaircraft.com/> www.fastaircraft.com &
<http://www.toddmccutchanairshows.com/> www.toddmccutchanairshows.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Hydraulic Lock Prevention |
I've used the system from Kevin Kimball for about 6 years. Yes, you need
the shut off valve and the scavenge pump both. Even running up at 1800 rpm
for a while doesn't get all the oil out. I've NEVER had a lock since the
system has been installed (over 700 hours). I've had some oil in the
exhaust/drain (very small amount). But never close enough to cause a problem
Bear
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Lannon
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:11 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Hydraulic Lock Prevention
Gentlemen;
Would greatly appreciate your comments on this subject.
Both the Huosai and M14P (and probably the whole Ivchenko series) are
notoriously bad in this area.
I have not been too keen on oil shut-off valves in the past but now am
convinced it is necessary. Any suggestions on valve and systems to
purchase?
Is an auxiliary oil scavenge pump a necessity? Or will a standard
post-flight scavenge run suffice given that oil from the tank will be closed
off?
Thanks;
Walt
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention |
I started years ago with no "add-on" system. I always do a quick post-flight scavenge
run and I added an intake drain system several years back. Although this
has reduced the number of locks to almost zero, they still happen occasionally
(usually if the plane sits a while).
I am convinced to reduce the odds further, I must do something about the sump filling
(oil past the pump valve, etc.). I have a hose with fittings that I can
connect to the sump drain (M14P) and open the valve and allow the oil to collect
in a jug (all done with hand through the cowl flaps). I am working on replacing
the stock sump valve with one that will be easier to actuate and have
a semi-permanent line run to a convenient location low on the firewall for future.
I am currently not interested in a shut-off valve or and electronic scavenge
system. We'll see how it goes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406792#406792
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Oil Cooler Drain - Can't Remove |
Mike,
36mm socket (I believe). Don't eff it up with a crescent wrench! The 36mm also
works on a the front sump screen and the oil screen just above the carb.
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406806#406806
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention |
Hi Walt
My 2 cents worth
We decided against the electric shut off attached to the oil tank as I
know of several cases of the tank cracking with the weight of the valve
and associated plumbing.
I believe some owners have installed a mechanical gate valve and bowden
cable with safety micro switch. Looks like best fix to me.
We have a drain manifold installed with a drain valve when parked plus
cans hanginging under the ex pipes.
Carl Hayes engineered a better gravity check valve in the oil pump, we
had him modify one for us but have not changed it yet.
Only had one hyd. lock so far before attempting to start! I believe the
cause was oil from the master rod with crank throw in the lowest
position allowing oil to fill one of the bottom pistons then past the
rings into the cylinder, removed a spark plug to drain, rare, but I am
sure that is what happened, I was afraid to turn the prop without
removing the spark plug.
One owner I spoke to when parking long term, removes a top plug to make
sure the master rod is a the top.
I think Craig Payne has installed a window in the case for visibly
checking rod pos.(I think one of the older engines with centrifuge port)
How did you make out with your leaking prop
Good to see you but too but you did not make Vandehoof
Joe
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention |
I'm previously one of those with an electric valve that ultimately failed an
d also cracked the oil tank because the valve hanging beneath the tank was i
nsufficiently supported. Now have a mechanical ball valve mounted to the por
t firewall. When the valve is open, it's red handle closes a micro switch wi
red to the start switch. I must open the valve with my dumb hand before gett
ing into the cockpit. Should my dumb hand forget, the engine won't start and
a red light on the panel advises me of the dumb hand's error. It's worked f
lawlessly since Vladimir installed it three years ago.
Blitz Fox
415-307-2405
On Aug 15, 2013, at 7:09 PM, "Joe Howse" <joeh@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Hi Walt
> My 2 cents worth
>
> We decided against the electric shut off attached to the oil tank as I kno
w of several cases of the tank cracking with the weight of the valve
> and associated plumbing.
> I believe some owners have installed a mechanical gate valve and bowden c
able with safety micro switch. Looks like best fix to me.
> We have a drain manifold installed with a drain valve when parked plus can
s hanginging under the ex pipes.
> Carl Hayes engineered a better gravity check valve in the oil pump, we had
him modify one for us but have not changed it yet.
> Only had one hyd. lock so far before attempting to start! I believe the ca
use was oil from the master rod with crank throw in the lowest
> position allowing oil to fill one of the bottom pistons then past the ring
s into the cylinder, removed a spark plug to drain, rare, but I am sure that
is what happened, I was afraid to turn the prop without removing the spark p
lug.
> One owner I spoke to when parking long term, removes a top plug to make su
re the master rod is a the top.
> I think Craig Payne has installed a window in the case for visibly checkin
g rod pos.(I think one of the older engines with centrifuge port)
>
> How did you make out with your leaking prop
>
> Good to see you but too but you did not make Vandehoof
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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