Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:24 AM - CJ wheel bearing removal (keithmckinley)
2. 08:25 AM - Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention (barryhancock)
3. 08:49 AM - Worldwide Warbirds New Home (barryhancock)
4. 09:36 AM - Re: CJ wheel bearing removal (Walter Lannon)
5. 09:39 AM - Re: Worldwide Warbirds New Home (Byron Fox)
6. 09:46 AM - Re: Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention (Walter Lannon)
7. 10:05 AM - Re: CJ wheel bearing removal (keithmckinley)
8. 11:43 AM - Re: Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention (Robin Hou)
9. 01:29 PM - Nanchang CJ 6 canopy (altman51)
10. 02:13 PM - Re: Worldwide Warbirds New Home (Richard Hess)
11. 04:30 PM - Re: CJ wheel bearing removal (Gary Gabbard)
12. 05:29 PM - Re: CJ wheel bearing removal (KingCJ6@aol.com)
13. 06:20 PM - Re: Nanchang CJ 6 canopy (keithmckinley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | CJ wheel bearing removal |
I've attached 2 pictures below. My inner wheel bearing and a picture of a CJ bearing
puller Doug sent me.
Has anyone had success removing an inner bearing locked on the axle with out cutting
or torching. I've tried some gentle prying with large screwdrivers. It looks
to me like the picture of the bearing puller will only pull off the outer
bearing by pulling the wheel first, but if it does work on the inner bearing
I'm all ears. Just seems like it lacks length on the tabs to get a good grab on
the meat of the bearing. perhaps it's meant to pull the bearing (breaking it)
in sections?
I'd like to hear what others have done in this situation.
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407347#407347
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/puller_198.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/inner_bearing_254.jpg
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention |
Walt,
On the two CJ's I've owned I have installed the electric shutoff valve. Tank cracking
is a problem and we solved it by welding gussets to the bottom of the
tank (not the big square plate welded to the bottom of some which WILL eventually
crack at the corners due to the stress).
On our restoration projects we installed the Kimball valve, which also works very
well. It's a bit less complicated to install and does the job. The things
I don't like about it are that it creates an extra push/pull lever in the cockpit
(v. using an existing switch in the panel) and because it is mechanical it
requires a pretty forceful pull to the open position (this turns opens the start
electrical circuit). But, it does do the job well aside from these more
minor hassles.
We do have a tank that is welded up with the gussets and ready to go if anyone
is looking to install an electric shut off valve.
--------
Barry Hancock
Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
(877) 869-6458
www.worldwidewarbirds.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407348#407348
Message 3
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| Subject: | Worldwide Warbirds New Home |
Gang,
After two years of bouncing around, we have finally found a permanent home. Worldwide
Warbirds has acquired a new long term lease on what we feel is the best
hangar on Russ McDonald Field in Heber, UT. Heber is located just over an hour's
drive from Salt Lake International in a beautiful valley of the Rockies
adjacent to Park City - with a vibrant sport aviation community. We are excited
about the new digs, which we will be upgrading over the coming months. It
will be a fun place to conduct business and get back to providing our customers
with a high level of service.
With the moving around we have had a lot of stuff in boxes and will be going through
them to see what we do and don't have - 5 years of CJ restorations left
us with a lot of stuff! Once I have a complete inventory I will post it here
for you guys. Here is what we do have now in stock:
-Upgraded Ignition Harness kits
-Polished Aluminum Brake Handles
-Adapters for Infinity Stick Grips
-Strut Adapter kits
-Intake Drain kits - just finishing building a new stock of kits for both engines
with and without the carb heat horns.
2012 was a good year for us, selling 14 aircraft. With our house now back in order,
we are currently looking for new inventory. If anyone is looking to buy
or sell their CJ - or any other type of aircraft - please contact us via email
and we will be happy to see if we can assist you.
I want to thank you guys for all the support we have received over the years and
we look forward to continuing to supporting the community for years to come.
Happy Flying,
Barry
--------
Barry Hancock
Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
(877) 869-6458
www.worldwidewarbirds.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407350#407350
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CJ wheel bearing removal |
Hi Keith;
I tend to call that the outboard bearing. In any case it is the one in your
photo. The bearing puller in the photo is for that bearing but it is a two
part puller and Doug has not shown the other half.
The other part is a cone that ties the rollers, cage & race together as one
unit.
I will try to get a photo for you.
Walt
-----Original Message-----
From: keithmckinley
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 8:21 AM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ wheel bearing removal
I've attached 2 pictures below. My inner wheel bearing and a picture of a CJ
bearing puller Doug sent me.
Has anyone had success removing an inner bearing locked on the axle with out
cutting or torching. I've tried some gentle prying with large screwdrivers.
It looks to me like the picture of the bearing puller will only pull off the
outer bearing by pulling the wheel first, but if it does work on the inner
bearing I'm all ears. Just seems like it lacks length on the tabs to get a
good grab on the meat of the bearing. perhaps it's meant to pull the bearing
(breaking it) in sections?
I'd like to hear what others have done in this situation.
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407347#407347
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/puller_198.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/inner_bearing_254.jpg
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Worldwide Warbirds New Home |
Best wishes, Barry. As a clear indication of your contributions to mankind, your
rudder peddle mod for the CJ ranks high on the list. I LOVE mine!
Blitz Fox
415-307-2405
On Aug 23, 2013, at 8:47 AM, "barryhancock" <bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com> wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> After two years of bouncing around, we have finally found a permanent home.
Worldwide Warbirds has acquired a new long term lease on what we feel is the best
hangar on Russ McDonald Field in Heber, UT. Heber is located just over an
hour's drive from Salt Lake International in a beautiful valley of the Rockies
adjacent to Park City - with a vibrant sport aviation community. We are excited
about the new digs, which we will be upgrading over the coming months. It
will be a fun place to conduct business and get back to providing our customers
with a high level of service.
>
> With the moving around we have had a lot of stuff in boxes and will be going
through them to see what we do and don't have - 5 years of CJ restorations left
us with a lot of stuff! Once I have a complete inventory I will post it here
for you guys. Here is what we do have now in stock:
>
> -Upgraded Ignition Harness kits
> -Polished Aluminum Brake Handles
> -Adapters for Infinity Stick Grips
> -Strut Adapter kits
> -Intake Drain kits - just finishing building a new stock of kits for both engines
with and without the carb heat horns.
>
> 2012 was a good year for us, selling 14 aircraft. With our house now back in
order, we are currently looking for new inventory. If anyone is looking to buy
or sell their CJ - or any other type of aircraft - please contact us via email
and we will be happy to see if we can assist you.
>
> I want to thank you guys for all the support we have received over the years
and we look forward to continuing to supporting the community for years to come.
>
> Happy Flying,
>
> Barry
>
> --------
> Barry Hancock
> Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
> (877) 869-6458
> www.worldwidewarbirds.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407350#407350
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention |
Thanks Barry;
I will be using the Kimball valve as well and am planning manual operation.
However I will make final decisions on the installation after I receive the
valve.
Cheers;
Walt
-----Original Message-----
From: barryhancock
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention
<bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com>
Walt,
On the two CJ's I've owned I have installed the electric shutoff valve.
Tank cracking is a problem and we solved it by welding gussets to the bottom
of the tank (not the big square plate welded to the bottom of some which
WILL eventually crack at the corners due to the stress).
On our restoration projects we installed the Kimball valve, which also works
very well. It's a bit less complicated to install and does the job. The
things I don't like about it are that it creates an extra push/pull lever in
the cockpit (v. using an existing switch in the panel) and because it is
mechanical it requires a pretty forceful pull to the open position (this
turns opens the start electrical circuit). But, it does do the job well
aside from these more minor hassles.
We do have a tank that is welded up with the gussets and ready to go if
anyone is looking to install an electric shut off valve.
--------
Barry Hancock
Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
(877) 869-6458
www.worldwidewarbirds.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407348#407348
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: CJ wheel bearing removal |
That would be fantastic Walt! I've heard this is a common problem with the CJ
and if the puller works it would be a tremendous help
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407365#407365
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention |
My CJ came with a Kimball valve. It was mounted on the upper right side and
was hard to operate - 2 hands operation to open. I moved it above the star
ter push switch; this location is very close to the mag switch, so I won't
forget to close it after shutdown. I put a lot of WD-40 through the cable a
nd now I open and close it with 3 fingers. The space above the starter swit
ch is not much, but there is enough room for the cable and a small light.
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Walter Lannon <wlannon@s
haw.ca>=0ATo: yak-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:44
AM=0ASubject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention=0A =0A=0A--> Yak-
List message posted by: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@shaw.ca>=0A=0AThanks Barry
;=0A=0AI will be using the Kimball valve as well and am planning manual ope
ration. However I will make final decisions on the installation after I rec
eive the valve.=0A=0ACheers;=0AWalt=0A=0A-----Original Message----- From: b
arryhancock=0ASent: Friday, August 23, 2013 8:23 AM=0ATo: yak-list@matronic
s.com=0ASubject: Yak-List: Re: Hydraulic Lock Prevention=0A=0A--> Yak-List
message posted by: "barryhancock" <bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com>=0A=0AWal
t,=0A=0AOn the two CJ's I've owned I have installed the electric shutoff va
lve. Tank cracking is a problem and we solved it by welding gussets to the
bottom of the tank (not the big square plate welded to the bottom of some w
hich WILL eventually crack at the corners due to the stress).=0A=0AOn our r
estoration projects we installed the Kimball valve, which also works very w
ell.- It's a bit less complicated to install and does the job.- The thi
ngs I don't like about it are that it creates an extra push/pull lever in t
he cockpit (v. using an existing switch in the panel) and because it is mec
hanical it requires a pretty forceful pull to the open position (this turns
opens the start electrical circuit).- But, it does do the job well aside
from these more minor hassles.=0A=0AWe do have a tank that is welded up wi
th the gussets and ready to go if anyone is looking to install an electric
shut off valve.=0A=0A--------=0ABarry Hancock=0AWorldwide Warbirds, Inc.=0A
(877) 869-6458=0Awww.worldwidewarbirds.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic on
line here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407348#407348
========================
Message 9
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| Subject: | Nanchang CJ 6 canopy |
Hey, I have a Nanchang CJ6 and will be putting on new canopies. Anybody out there
that has done this please share your experience. How did yo handle the rivets
and what kind of sealant did you use?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407384#407384
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Worldwide Warbirds New Home |
Good luck!!!
Richard Hess
C 404-964-4885
On Aug 23, 2013, at 10:47, "barryhancock" <bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com> wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> After two years of bouncing around, we have finally found a permanent home.
Worldwide Warbirds has acquired a new long term lease on what we feel is the best
hangar on Russ McDonald Field in Heber, UT. Heber is located just over an
hour's drive from Salt Lake International in a beautiful valley of the Rockies
adjacent to Park City - with a vibrant sport aviation community. We are excited
about the new digs, which we will be upgrading over the coming months. It
will be a fun place to conduct business and get back to providing our customers
with a high level of service.
>
> With the moving around we have had a lot of stuff in boxes and will be going
through them to see what we do and don't have - 5 years of CJ restorations left
us with a lot of stuff! Once I have a complete inventory I will post it here
for you guys. Here is what we do have now in stock:
>
> -Upgraded Ignition Harness kits
> -Polished Aluminum Brake Handles
> -Adapters for Infinity Stick Grips
> -Strut Adapter kits
> -Intake Drain kits - just finishing building a new stock of kits for both engines
with and without the carb heat horns.
>
> 2012 was a good year for us, selling 14 aircraft. With our house now back in
order, we are currently looking for new inventory. If anyone is looking to buy
or sell their CJ - or any other type of aircraft - please contact us via email
and we will be happy to see if we can assist you.
>
> I want to thank you guys for all the support we have received over the years
and we look forward to continuing to supporting the community for years to come.
>
> Happy Flying,
>
> Barry
>
> --------
> Barry Hancock
> Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
> (877) 869-6458
> www.worldwidewarbirds.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407350#407350
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: CJ wheel bearing removal |
Just a thought. I know they are very difficult to remove sometimes. Here is an
idea. How about packing the inside of the hollow axel with dry ice. Use a wooden
dowel to pack it in the axel. It might shrink the axel just enough to make
the bearing removable. Won't take much shrinkage. As I said just a thought. Gary.
N22YK.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 23, 2013, at 9:34, "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Hi Keith;
>
> I tend to call that the outboard bearing. In any case it is the one in your
photo. The bearing puller in the photo is for that bearing but it is a two part
puller and Doug has not shown the other half.
>
> The other part is a cone that ties the rollers, cage & race together as one unit.
>
> I will try to get a photo for you.
>
> Walt
>
> -----Original Message----- From: keithmckinley
> Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 8:21 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: CJ wheel bearing removal
>
>
> I've attached 2 pictures below. My inner wheel bearing and a picture of a CJ
bearing puller Doug sent me.
>
> Has anyone had success removing an inner bearing locked on the axle with out
cutting or torching. I've tried some gentle prying with large screwdrivers. It
looks to me like the picture of the bearing puller will only pull off the outer
bearing by pulling the wheel first, but if it does work on the inner bearing
I'm all ears. Just seems like it lacks length on the tabs to get a good grab
on the meat of the bearing. perhaps it's meant to pull the bearing (breaking
it) in sections?
>
> I'd like to hear what others have done in this situation.
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> X26 Sebastian, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407347#407347
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/puller_198.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/inner_bearing_254.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: CJ wheel bearing removal |
This spray may work to freeze the shaft while penetrating:
http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05002
In a message dated 8/23/2013 4:30:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
ggg6@att.net writes:
--> Yak-List message posted by: Gary Gabbard <ggg6@att.net>
Just a thought. I know they are very difficult to remove sometimes. Here
is an idea. How about packing the inside of the hollow axel with dry ice.
Use a wooden dowel to pack it in the axel. It might shrink the axel just
enough to make the bearing removable. Won't take much shrinkage. As I said
just a thought. Gary. N22YK.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 23, 2013, at 9:34, "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Hi Keith;
>
> I tend to call that the outboard bearing. In any case it is the one in
your photo. The bearing puller in the photo is for that bearing but it is
a two part puller and Doug has not shown the other half.
>
> The other part is a cone that ties the rollers, cage & race together as
one unit.
>
> I will try to get a photo for you.
>
> Walt
>
> -----Original Message----- From: keithmckinley
> Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 8:21 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: CJ wheel bearing removal
>
>
> I've attached 2 pictures below. My inner wheel bearing and a picture of
a CJ bearing puller Doug sent me.
>
> Has anyone had success removing an inner bearing locked on the axle with
out cutting or torching. I've tried some gentle prying with large
screwdrivers. It looks to me like the picture of the bearing puller will only
pull
off the outer bearing by pulling the wheel first, but if it does work on
the inner bearing I'm all ears. Just seems like it lacks length on the tabs to
get a good grab on the meat of the bearing. perhaps it's meant to pull the
bearing (breaking it) in sections?
>
> I'd like to hear what others have done in this situation.
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> X26 Sebastian, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407347#407347
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/puller_198.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/inner_bearing_254.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Nanchang CJ 6 canopy |
I did my rear canopy a couple years ago (2 piece). It was a bit of work but I made
a simple jig to reinstall. Lots of test fitting, trimming, masking and careful
drilling. Some basics:
1.you need a belt sander set up on a table (vice) to shape and grind the canopy
to fit
2.I did not use sealant but a rubberized tape strip
3.I disassembled everything and had all parts powder coated except the actual canopy
frame which I painted. Primed first, then painted inside, installed glass
then painted outside.
4. no rivets, replaced all with screws
5. used all new 8-32 screws, the 4mm specialty nuts (if you re-use) tap out nicely.
The heads on the us 8-32 screws are not quite the same taper as the chinese
4mm but there is no issue.
5. buy a plexiglass drill bit and oversize the holes. Also grind a taper in them.
6. do not wreck your old canopy! use it for measurement for the new glass
As I recall, my rear canopy took me about 40 hours without the painting.
Good luck
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407397#407397
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