Yak-List Digest Archive

Wed 01/29/14


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:13 AM - Re: My bad day. (Dale)
     2. 08:26 AM - Re: Upcoming RPA T-Shirt Design (keithmckinley)
     3. 08:42 AM - Re: My bad day. (Vic)
     4. 09:22 AM - Re: My bad day. (Dale)
     5. 09:23 AM - Re: My bad day. (Dale)
     6. 10:24 AM - Re: Re: Upcoming RPA T-Shirt Design (theDicePilot .)
     7. 11:08 AM - Re: Re: My bad day. (Walter Lannon)
     8. 12:26 PM - Re: My bad day. (Dale)
     9. 03:29 PM - Re: My bad day. (Vic)
    10. 03:49 PM - Re: Re: My bad day. (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
    11. 06:16 PM - Re: Re: My bad day. (Walter Lannon)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:13:14 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    From: "Dale" <dale@frii.com>
    I have installed several and am using the Kimball valve . I can not see how the valve could close on itself. It is a rotating ball valve style. I have mounted the control cable such that it sticks out in the way of my leg so it hits me in the knee when pulled out to the closed position. The microswitch also does not allow me to energize the start switch unless the control cable pushed in all the way and at that time the bright yellow indicator light goes out that is next to the start switch telling me the valve is open. And at that time I should be looking at the oil pressure next during run up. I don't see how the oil shutoff could close on it's own since it takes a fair amount of work to move it in either direction even with the control . In my opinion the only way to close is for me to pull it to the off position which is in my way to fly and look at the glaring yellow light telling me the valve moved off the full open position. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417810#417810


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:26:40 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Upcoming RPA T-Shirt Design
    From: "keithmckinley" <cetopfed@gmail.com>
    preliminary design for the Yak shirt attached :D -------- Keith McKinley 700HS X26 Sebastian, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417815#417815 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/th_316.jpeg


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:42:46 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    From: "Vic" <vicmolnar@aol.com>
    Hi Dale, your system sounds quite reasonable. How do you activate the valve, by push-pull wire like most of the cockpit levers do ? I suppose the yellow light switch is triggered by the valve lever and not by the cable handle ? Id place the air start coil switch there as well - respectively a two position switch: When the yellow light is on the other contact is open -- when the light is out the other contact closes for starting. So you effectively control the function of the switch by looking at the lamp to go and off as well - the only way for checking a malfunction. Vic Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417817#417817


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:22:13 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    From: "Dale" <dale@frii.com>
    Non locking push pull control (aircraft spruce) I uses two stops on both sides of wire where it connects to arm on valve so it won't ever slip. 24 volt light wired to the starter button Micro switch on Kimball shutoff ( supplied with valve ) Voltage must pass from one side of start button through micro-switch back to start switch where it connects to start solenoid wire (Not to switch) there is two connections on micro-switch so you can wire light to other connector on so it is on when valve is off and on when valve is closed. Micro-switch is activated on arm of valve not on wire or control wire and comes already screwed to valve (don't over tighten screws on switch). Dale Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417819#417819


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:23:06 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    From: "Dale" <dale@frii.com>
    Non locking push pull control (aircraft spruce) I uses two stops on both sides of wire where it connects to arm on valve so it won't ever slip. 24 volt light wired to the micro-switch Micro switch on Kimball shutoff ( supplied with valve ) Voltage must pass from one side of start button through micro-switch back to start switch where it connects to start solenoid wire (Not to switch) there is two connections on micro-switch so you can wire light to other connector on so it is on when valve is off and on when valve is closed. Micro-switch is activated on arm of valve not on wire or control wire and comes already screwed to valve (don't over tighten screws on switch). Dale Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417820#417820


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:24:18 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Upcoming RPA T-Shirt Design
    From: "theDicePilot ." <thedicepilot@gmail.com>
    That shirt design is for the CJ pilots! Weeds On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 8:25 AM, keithmckinley <cetopfed@gmail.com> wrote: > > preliminary design for the Yak shirt attached :D > > -------- > Keith McKinley > 700HS > X26 Sebastian, FL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417815#417815 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/th_316.jpeg > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:08:51 AM PST US
    From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    Dale; I recently installed the Kimball valve on my CJ. The installation is basically the same as yours with some minor differences. I used a two light system taking advantage of the NO & NC features of the micro-switch and installed a lockable cable assy. with an 0.072" wire. Engine start power (for boost coil & air solenoid) is re-routed from the Start Master CB/Switch to the Start button through the valve micro-switch. With the valve arm in any position other than fully open the RED light is illuminated from the NC contact. With the valve fully open power is supplied (through the NO contact) to energize the start button and illuminate the GREEN light. In flight at any time the valve position can be confirmed by energizing the Start Master. The Press to Test circuit of the indicator lights is powered directly from the 27VDC bus. so the lamps can be tested any time the Bat. Master is on. There is no doubt that the position of the valve arm is the position of the actual valve as may not be the case with an electrically driven valve. I too have concerns with the control wire attachment to the valve arm. A single set screw just does not meet any reasonable safety requirement. I could not find suitable wire clamps as you did so I manufactured a new stainless steel arm bushing with the 8-32NC thread extending over the full length of the bushing. This allows a screw to be driven on top of the set screw as a safety. Better than nothing? Over a period of at least two weeks I tried to share this concern with Kimball but they were simply not answering the phone!! The Kimball valve is not a ball type. It is unique and probably their own design and looks very good. Valve operation is very smooth. Any binding after installation is a function of the control installation which needs some careful planning. One necessary item not well provided for in the valve design is the fact that for smooth operation the cable housing clamp must be allowed to swivel a small amount. Cheers; Walt -----Original Message----- From: Dale Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 9:21 AM Subject: Yak-List: Re: My bad day. Non locking push pull control (aircraft spruce) I uses two stops on both sides of wire where it connects to arm on valve so it won't ever slip. 24 volt light wired to the starter button Micro switch on Kimball shutoff ( supplied with valve ) Voltage must pass from one side of start button through micro-switch back to start switch where it connects to start solenoid wire (Not to switch) there is two connections on micro-switch so you can wire light to other connector on so it is on when valve is off and on when valve is closed. Micro-switch is activated on arm of valve not on wire or control wire and comes already screwed to valve (don't over tighten screws on switch). Dale Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417819#417819


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:26:07 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    From: "Dale" <dale@frii.com>
    I do realize it is not a ball valve I stated ball style. Don't know the technical name for what it actually is .I will call it a cylindrical rotating single orifice super custom do-hickey dildo valve (Dildo for short to quote a Yak friend of mine , some of you know of whom I speak) I installed it pretty much straight forward of the way Kimball uses it on the Pitts Model 12. been using it for years. works for me. Anyone can make something more complex than it needs to be. I custom made the SS wire stops in my machine shop. The best way to fix the issue is sell the plane. Sooner or later everyone will pick this fix. No one way to do anything. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417837#417837


    Message 9


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    Time: 03:29:33 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    From: "Vic" <vicmolnar@aol.com>
    Now that looks very racy indeed ! I guess the valve is mounted on the oil tank ? In this forum I think to remember that there have been reports of fractures of the oil tank joint as the valve assembly is a bit massive. Wouldnt it be safer to place the valve somewhere on the fire wall with a hose connecting to the tank? On the 18 T I put the actual ball valve on the right side next to the oil "filter" . Vic Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417844#417844


    Message 10


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    Time: 03:49:18 PM PST US
    From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    Correct. Mark ________________________________ From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] on behalf of Vic [vicmolnar@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 6:28 PM Subject: Yak-List: Re: My bad day. Now that looks very racy indeed ! I guess the valve is mounted on the oil tank ? In this forum I think to remember that there have been reports of fractures of the oil tank joint as the valve assembly is a bit massive. Wouldnt it be safer to place the valve somewhere on the fire wall with a hose connecting to the tank? On the 18 T I put the actual ball valve on the right side next to the oil "filter" . Vic Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417844#417844


    Message 11


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    Time: 06:16:43 PM PST US
    From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: My bad day.
    As far as I know those reports referred to the motorized valve which is considerably heavier. That does not relieve the concern though and I spent much time trying to find a way to firewall mount it. The valve configuration does not lend itself to firewall mounting on the CJ. So it is tank mounted but it is also directly braced to the firewall eliminating any possibility of relative motion between the valve and the tank. Walt -----Original Message----- From: Vic Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 3:28 PM Subject: Yak-List: Re: My bad day. Now that looks very racy indeed ! I guess the valve is mounted on the oil tank ? In this forum I think to remember that there have been reports of fractures of the oil tank joint as the valve assembly is a bit massive. Wouldnt it be safer to place the valve somewhere on the fire wall with a hose connecting to the tank? On the 18 T I put the actual ball valve on the right side next to the oil "filter" . Vic Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417844#417844




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