Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:54 AM - German made compass (cjpilot710@aol.com)
2. 07:36 PM - Re: Yak 50 question (Mike Cavanagh)
3. 07:49 PM - Re: Re: propeller pull through procedure (Mike Cavanagh)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | German made compass |
To some of our German listers. I have a beautiful compass, that I was
told was made in Germany. Its a Temn KR16. It has beautiful workmanship and
is unquiet in that it is self leveling (It acts like an horizon). It needs
repair but I have not been able to find the company that either builds or
place that know anything about it here in the US.
Can any of you 'over there' tell me anything about it or maybe where to get
it fixed. It was a gift and I can't seem to be able to set it level with
adjustment screws. The company that imported it has not had relation with
the German company for over 7 years.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Yak 50 question |
Don't know about the 50 but I imagine it must be very similar to the 52. I have
all three of mine out, one twice in the last 18 years. They are a bitch!! I
disconnected the the actuators from the gear legs and disconnected the upper
actuator attach bolts from the wing. On the 52 there is practically no access
and I did it all with fingers alone. The upper attach bolt is secured with a
castle nut and cotter pin. I was able to straighten the cotters with my fingers
and then used an angled needle nose to pull the cotter pins, The castle nuts
spun off by hand. You will have to do it all mostly by feel if it is anything
like the 52. Not Fun. Good luck and it will improve your dexterity with
magic tricks. Duck
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 21, 2014, at 11:10 AM, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
>
> There are a number of articles in the archives that discuss the topic of pulling
the gear retract cylinders. One of which I wrote. I've tried some of the
other procedures, but have had mixed results.
>
> If you want details, please contact me off-line at: markbitterlich@embarqmail.com
or at work at: mark.bitterlich@navy.mil and I will talk to you in person
about the pro's and con's.
>
> To sum it up in one sentence, it is in my opinion best to pull the whole landing
gear leg with cylinder attached, then it is to try to remove and replace the
cylinder leaving the gear leg bolted in.
>
> Second, be aware there is a SET SCREW in the spin on collars of this actuator.
It could be hidden by paint of grease, but it is there! Without loosening
this screw, you will ruin the actuator trying to take it apart.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd McCutchan
> Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 8:24 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Yak 50 question
>
> Couple of Yak 50 mx questions:
>
>
>
> 1 - Does anyone know of the best way to get the gear retraction cylinders out
of the wings?
>
>
>
> 2 - What is the preferred covering for the control surfaces?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Todd McCutchan
>
> Fast Aircraft
>
> T-34A & Yak-50
>
>
>
> Cell - 260.402.1740
>
>
>
> Email: todd@fastaircraft.com
>
> Skype: tmccutchan
>
> Web: www.fastaircraft.com <http://www.fastaircraft.com/> & www.toddmccutchanairshows.com <http://www.toddmccutchanairshows.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: propeller pull through procedure |
Has anyone factored the pi root of I into the equation and don't forget that
if you pull it through with your plugs out you won't clear the intakes. Yo
u will bust your engine bigger than shit....I know from experience. Duck
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 20, 2014, at 11:48 AM, "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> There seems to be a number of different methods for determining number of r
otations to complete a full cycle. Mostly wrong.
>
> The key is the Otto cycle itself. It needs two revolutions to complete an
d has a number of events taking place at very specific points in the cycle.
If you stack a number of these cylinders together whether in a line or cir
cle or whatever it becomes clear that there must be a specific interval for t
hose events between cylinders.
> The design itself indicates that interval is 180 degs.
>
> To fully cycle 9 cylinders then requires a crankshaft rotation of 1620 deg
s. (9X180). 1620/360 = 4.5 revolutions for a direct drive engine.
>
> For the M14P: 4.5 X 0.658 X 2 (blades) = 5.922 turns OR 1620 X 0.658
= 1065.96 X 2 = 2132.92/360 = 5.922 turns.
>
> For the HS6A the gear ratio is 0.787. The above is for two blades. I h
ate three blades causes there is always one in the way to hit my head on.
>
> Walt
>
> From: Todd McCutchan
> Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 10:59 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: propeller pull through procedure
>
> So I get 9.12 blades for complete rotation (1094/120) which means 10 blade
s to clear all yes?
>
> Todd McCutchan
> T-34A & Yak-50
> Cell: (260) 402-1740
> E-mail: todd@fastaircraft.com
> www.fastaircraft.com
>
>
>
>> On Feb 19, 2014, at 2:12 PM, "LawnDart" <propwash@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> 1 crankshaft rotation = 360 deg.
>> 1 thermodynamic cycle (4-stroke) = 720 deg of crankshaft rotation.
>>
>> M14P prop reduction = 0.658 (prop turns less than crankshaft).
>> 720 / 0.658 = 1094 deg of prop rotation to complete 1 thermodynamic 4-s
troke cycle.
>> 1094 / 180 deg = 6.1 blades (turning one blade of a 2-bladed prop = 1
80 deg of prop rotation).
>>
>> Notes:
>> a) substitute 0.xxx for 0.658 if your prop reduction is different.
>> b) for a 3-bladed prop, substitute 120 deg for 180 deg.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419017#419017
>>
>>
>>
>> ">http=======================
===bsp; - MATRONICS W href="http://forums.matronics.com">ht
tp://forums.matronics.com=================
==========================
==
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|