Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:18 AM - Re: M 14 Oil Leak (Mark Willard)
2. 05:37 AM - Re: M 14 Oil Leak (A. Dennis Savarese)
3. 06:39 AM - Re: M 14 Oil Leak (Dale)
4. 08:07 AM - Re: Re: M 14 Oil Leak (\)
5. 12:47 PM - Re: Re: M 14 Oil Leak (Jan Mevis)
6. 01:03 PM - Re: Re: M 14 Oil Leak (A. Dennis Savarese)
7. 01:36 PM - Re: M 14 Oil Leak (Mark Willard)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
If the yak is a 52 make sure the pickup in the oil tank is not binding, causing
increased crankcase pressure.
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 8, 2014, at 2:52 PM, "ChangDriver" <capav8r@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> A friends Yak has developed a significant oil leak. The mechanic who looked
at it has suggested the leak is coming From the lower pushrods tubes. There is
also suspicion that the internal engine pressure is above normal since he does
not believe that the amount of oil seen leaking would only be from poor seals.
The recommendation is to remove the engine form the plane to redo the seals
on the pushrods tubes. The leaking only appears after the engine is warmed
to operating temps.
>
> Any suggestions from the community on other things to look for and methods to
redo the pushrods tubes without removing the engine?
>
> Does it seem reasonable that increased crankcase pressure might force oil out
of this area of the engine?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419967#419967
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
Mark,=0AWhy would a potentially binding oil pickup, which rotates 360 degre
es inside the oil tank, cause increased crankcase pressure?- =0A=0AIn my
mind, if were binding to the point where the pickup was not submerged in th
e oil, oil pressure would be lost.=0ADennis=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________
_______________=0A From: Mark Willard <vindscreenmw@bigpond.com>=0ATo: "yak
-list@matronics.com" <yak-list@matronics.com> =0ASent: Saturday, March 8, 2
014 3:17 AM=0ASubject: Re: Yak-List: M 14 Oil Leak=0A =0A=0A--> Yak-List me
ssage posted by: Mark Willard <vindscreenmw@bigpond.com>=0A=0AIf the yak is
a 52 make sure the pickup in the oil tank is not binding, causing increase
d crankcase pressure.=0A=0ASent from my iPad=0A=0A> On Mar 8, 2014, at 2:52
PM, "ChangDriver" <capav8r@gmail.com> wrote:=0A> =0A> --> Yak-List message
posted by: "ChangDriver" <capav8r@gmail.com>=0A> =0A> A friends Yak has de
veloped a significant oil leak.- The mechanic who looked at it has sugges
ted the leak is coming From the lower pushrods tubes.- There is also susp
icion that the internal engine pressure is above normal since he does not b
elieve that the amount of oil seen leaking would only be from poor seals.
- The recommendation is to remove the engine form the plane to redo the s
eals on the pushrods tubes.- The leaking only appears after the engine is
warmed to operating temps.=0A> =0A> Any suggestions from the community on
other things to look for and methods to redo the pushrods tubes without rem
oving the engine?- =0A> =0A> Does it seem reasonable that increased crank
case pressure might force oil out of this area of the engine?=0A> =0A> Than
ks,=0A> =0A> Craig=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Read this topic online here:=0A>
=0A> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419967#419967=0A> =0A>
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Adm
=====
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
Get some ultraviolet oil additive. Clean the engine first. Look for leak
most likely valve cover misaligned or gaskets not seated and the prop air throwing
it all over.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419975#419975
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
I don' believe high oil pressure is the problem, else there would be leaks
every where and not just the lower cylinders. BTW a cheap way to find oil
leaks is baking soda. Clean the engine real good. Make sure its dry. Du
st the baking soda over the suspected areas. Blow off the excess. Run the
engine until its warm. Any oil leaks will turn the baking soda black. EPA
will love you.
Having tried to stop a leak in the (What I call the tappet housing) this is
NOT something you really want to do unless you are very familiar with the
set up and what will happen if you should drop the roller and tappet into t
he case.
Under the tappet housing (this is the part that is held on to the case with
2 nut (9mm I think)) is an O ring.
To replace the O ring the housing has to be removed. Thus, you take off th
e valve cover. Remove the push rod. Take off the push rod tube, by loosing
the the nut at the top and removing the hose at the bottom. NOTE: This ma
y be the very thing that is causing the oil leak and replacing the hose wil
l do it. (A thermo hose from "AutoZone" is the best for this and what we u
se on the big radials). Make sure the push rod tube is clean smooth and dr
y when replacing the hose. Also make sure the two nuts that hold the tappe
t housing to the case are tight.
BUT if the leak is definitely coming from under the tappet housing, I advis
e to leave it alone unless you really know what you are dealing with. The
roller that follows the cam shaft, it's pin, spring are held in place by th
e tappet housing. The roller has a larger diameter that the opening in the
case that the tappet housing fits in. Unlike a lot of US radial engine wh
ere you can pull out the whole tappet assembly though the housing, you can
not on the M-14P.
AND if you can not hold on to the whole tappet, IT WILL FALL INTO THE CASE
AND THERE IS NO WAY TO RETRIEVE IT. EXCEPT: remove the cowling, remove the
prop, remove the prop governor and remove the nose section of the engine an
d than IF I remember correctly remove a case web to get to get to the cam s
haft area where you will find the tappet assembly. This take a experienced
M-14P mechanic a least 4 hours with the proper specialized tools.
There might be a specialized tool to do this, but I not aware of one. Mayb
e Jill or George Coy could comment on this. This not an easy task. I brok
e a pair of very expenvies bi-focal glasses, when they landed on the other
side of my hangar, when because of slippery oily fingers, I realized I had
dropped the tappet into the case, .
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale <dale@frii.com>
Sent: Sat, Mar 8, 2014 8:40 am
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M 14 Oil Leak
Get some ultraviolet oil additive. Clean the engine first. Look for leak
ost likely valve cover misaligned or gaskets not seated and the prop air
hrowing it all over.
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419975#419975
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
I concur with this, Jim.
It's not a good idea trying to replace those seals, unless you're very
experienced.
We've tried to do this kind of a repair. First we exercised on an old
engine.
As you say, there's a serious probability that you end up with dropping
parts in the case. And then =8A
About the possible cause of leaking seals at the tappets (as you name them)
:
engine overheating ?
Jan
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: M 14 Oil Leak
I don' believe high oil pressure is the problem, else there would be leaks
every where and not just the lower cylinders. BTW a cheap way to find oil
leaks is baking soda. Clean the engine real good. Make sure its dry.
Dust the baking soda over the suspected areas. Blow off the excess. Run th
e
engine until its warm. Any oil leaks will turn the baking soda black. EPA
will love you.
Having tried to stop a leak in the (What I call the tappet housing) this is
NOT something you really want to do unless you are very familiar with the
set up and what will happen if you should drop the roller and tappet into
the case.
Under the tappet housing (this is the part that is held on to the case with
2 nut (9mm I think)) is an O ring.
To replace the O ring the housing has to be removed. Thus, you take off th
e
valve cover. Remove the push rod. Take off the push rod tube, by loosing
the the nut at the top and removing the hose at the bottom. NOTE: This may
be the very thing that is causing the oil leak and replacing the hose will
do it. (A thermo hose from "AutoZone" is the best for this and what we use
on the big radials). Make sure the push rod tube is clean smooth and dry
when replacing the hose. Also make sure the two nuts that hold the tappet
housing to the case are tight.
BUT if the leak is definitely coming from under the tappet housing, I advis
e
to leave it alone unless you really know what you are dealing with. The
roller that follows the cam shaft, it's pin, spring are held in place by th
e
tappet housing. The roller has a larger diameter that the opening in the
case that the tappet housing fits in. Unlike a lot of US radial engine
where you can pull out the whole tappet assembly though the housing, you ca
n
not on the M-14P.
AND if you can not hold on to the whole tappet, IT WILL FALL INTO THE CASE
AND THERE IS NO WAY TO RETRIEVE IT. EXCEPT: remove the cowling, remove the
prop, remove the prop governor and remove the nose section of the engine an
d
than IF I remember correctly remove a case web to get to get to the cam
shaft area where you will find the tappet assembly. This take a experience
d
M-14P mechanic a least 4 hours with the proper specialized tools.
There might be a specialized tool to do this, but I not aware of one. Mayb
e
Jill or George Coy could comment on this. This not an easy task. I broke
a
pair of very expenvies bi-focal glasses, when they landed on the other side
of my hangar, when because of slippery oily fingers, I realized I had
dropped the tappet into the case, .
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale <dale@frii.com>
Sent: Sat, Mar 8, 2014 8:40 am
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M 14 Oil Leak
Get some ultraviolet oil additive. Clean the engine first. Look for leak
most likely valve cover misaligned or gaskets not seated and the prop air
throwing it all over.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419975#419975
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
Actually, under the lifter body which is what Pappy is referring to, is an
oval shaped paper gasket.- Regardless of whether it is a paper gasket or
an o-ring, follow Pappy's guidance because you WILL drop a roller and pin i
n the nose case.- Then you will REALLY be upset!- Ask Pappy.- He know
s quite well.=0ADennis=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A Fr
om: """ <cjpilot710@aol.com>=0ATo: yak-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Saturday
, March 8, 2014 10:07 AM=0ASubject: Re: Yak-List: Re: M 14 Oil Leak=0A =0A
=0A=0AI don' believe high oil pressure is the problem, else there would be
leaks every where and not just the lower cylinders.- BTW a cheap way to f
ind oil leaks is baking soda.- Clean the engine-real good.-- Make s
ure its dry.- Dust the baking soda over the suspected areas. Blow off the
excess.- Run the engine until its warm.- Any oil leaks will turn the b
aking soda black.- EPA will love you.=0A=0A-=0AHaving tried to stop a l
eak in the (What I call the tappet housing) this is-NOT something you rea
lly want to do unless you are very familiar with the set up and what will h
appen if you should drop the roller and tappet into the case.- =0A-=0AU
nder the tappet housing (this is the part that is held on to the case with
2 nut (9mm I think)) is an O ring.- =0A-=0ATo replace the O ring the ho
using has to be removed.- Thus, you take off the valve cover. Remove the
push rod.- Take off the push rod tube, by loosing the the nut at the top
and removing the hose at the bottom.- NOTE: This may be the very thing th
at is causing the oil leak and replacing the hose will do it.- (A thermo
hose from "AutoZone" is the best for this and what we use on the big radial
s).- Make sure the push rod tube is clean smooth and dry when replacing t
he hose.- Also make sure the two nuts that hold the tappet housing to the
case are tight.=0A-=0ABUT if the leak is definitely coming from under th
e tappet housing, I advise to leave it alone unless you really know what yo
u are dealing with.- The roller that follows the cam shaft, it's pin, spr
ing are held in place by the tappet housing.- The roller has a larger dia
meter that the opening in the case that the tappet housing fits in.- Unli
ke a lot of US radial engine where you can pull out the whole tappet assemb
ly though the housing, you can not on the M-14P.- =0A-=0AAND if you can
not hold on to the whole tappet, IT WILL FALL INTO THE CASE AND THERE IS N
O WAY TO RETRIEVE IT. EXCEPT: remove the cowling, remove the prop, remove t
he prop governor and remove the nose section of the engine and than IF I re
member correctly remove a case web to get to get to the cam shaft area wher
e you will find the tappet assembly.- This take a experienced M-14P mecha
nic a least 4 hours with the proper specialized tools.=0A-=0AThere might
be a specialized tool to do this, but I not aware of one.- Maybe Jill or
George Coy could comment on this.- This not an easy task.- I broke a pa
ir of very expenvies bi-focal glasses, when they landed on the other side o
f my hangar, when because of slippery oily fingers, I realized I had droppe
d the tappet into the case, .=0A-=0A=0AJim "Pappy" Goolsby=0A=0A-----Orig
inal Message-----=0AFrom: Dale <dale@frii.com>=0ATo: yak-list <yak-list@mat
ronics.com>=0ASent: Sat, Mar 8, 2014 8:40 am=0ASubject: Yak-List: Re: M 14
some ultraviolet oil additive. Clean the engine first. Look for leak=0Am
ost likely valve cover misaligned or gaskets not seated and the prop air
=0Athrowing it all over. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matroni
cs.com/viewtopic.php?p=419975#419975 et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?Yak-List=0Ap://forums.matronics.com=0Ablank>http://www.matronics
=================
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
Dennis ,i understod that the pickup also had a vent that can become stuck, c
ausing the crank pressure to become excessive and create oil leaks at the we
akest points. Have had it happen on a 52.
Mark.
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 9, 2014, at 12:37 AM, "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth
.net> wrote:
>
> Mark,
> Why would a potentially binding oil pickup, which rotates 360 degrees insi
de the oil tank, cause increased crankcase pressure?
>
> In my mind, if were binding to the point where the pickup was not submerge
d in the oil, oil pressure would be lost.
> Dennis
>
>
> From: Mark Willard <vindscreenmw@bigpond.com>
> To: "yak-list@matronics.com" <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 8, 2014 3:17 AM
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: M 14 Oil Leak
>
>
> If the yak is a 52 make sure the pickup in the oil tank is not binding, ca
using increased crankcase pressure.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Mar 8, 2014, at 2:52 PM, "ChangDriver" <capav8r@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > A friends Yak has developed a significant oil leak. The mechanic who lo
oked at it has suggested the leak is coming =46rom the lower pushrods tubes.
There is also suspicion that the internal engine pressure is above normal s
ince he does not believe that the amount of oil seen leaking would only be f
rom poor seals. The recommendation is to remove the engine form the plane t
o redo the seals on the pushrods tubes. The leaking only appears after the e
ngine is warmed to operating temps.
> >
> > Any suggestions from the community on other things to look for and metho
ds to redo the pushrods tubes without removing the engine?
> >
> > Does it seem reasonable that increased crankcase pressure might force oi
l out of this area of the engine?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Craig
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419967#419967
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > m/Navigator?Yak-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigat
or?p; --> http:=====================
==
> http://www.matronics.co=================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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