Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:01 AM - Re: Re: M 14 Oil Leak (jblake207@comcast.net)
2. 08:52 AM - Re: Re: M 14 Oil Leak (Tom Elliott)
3. 09:52 AM - Start Solenoid Trouble (Jim)
4. 10:07 AM - Re: Start Solenoid Trouble (doug sapp)
5. 11:08 AM - Re: Start Solenoid Trouble (A. Dennis Savarese)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
Not disputing the ultraviolet additive especially since I=99ve never
done used it, but a much easier and maybe less expensive way is to use baby
powder. Clean the engine with soap and water as opposed to mineral spirits
. I use purple power, but be sure to rinse completely in fact, rin
se three times since it is a very corrosive cleaner. The point of using soa
p as opposed to mineral spirits is to have a nice dry, oil free surface. Wi
th the cowling open, use a liberal amount of baby all over the engine, espe
cially in areas you suspect are leaking. Close the cowling and ground run t
he engine for 15-20 minutes. I=99d get it to operating temps. Then op
en the cowling and look for wet spots in the powder. A very simple and quit
e effective method of locating leaks. Afterwards, simply rinse the engine o
f any remaining baby powder.
=C2-JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale" <dale@frii.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 8, 2014 8:39:23 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M 14 Oil Leak
Get some ultraviolet oil additive. =C2-Clean the engine first. =C2-Look
for leak
most likely valve cover misaligned or gaskets not seated and the prop air t
hrowing it all over.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419975#419975
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: M 14 Oil Leak |
An easier method of application is to use dry powder under arm deodorant
in a spray can.
Tom Elliott
CJ-6A NX63727
777 Quartz Ave
PMB 7004
Sandy Valley NV
89019
Cell 541-297-5497
N13472@AOL.COM
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jblake207@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: M 14 Oil Leak
Not disputing the ultraviolet additive especially since I=99ve
never done used it, but a much easier and maybe less expensive way is to
use baby powder. Clean the engine with soap and water as opposed to
mineral spirits. I use purple power, but be sure to rinse
completely in fact, rinse three times since it is a very
corrosive cleaner. The point of using soap as opposed to mineral spirits
is to have a nice dry, oil free surface. With the cowling open, use a
liberal amount of baby all over the engine, especially in areas you
suspect are leaking. Close the cowling and ground run the engine for
15-20 minutes. I=99d get it to operating temps. Then open the
cowling and look for wet spots in the powder. A very simple and quite
effective method of locating leaks. Afterwards, simply rinse the engine
of any remaining baby powder.
JB
_____
From: "Dale" <dale@frii.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 8, 2014 8:39:23 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: M 14 Oil Leak
Get some ultraviolet oil additive. Clean the engine first. Look for
leak
most likely valve cover misaligned or gaskets not seated and the prop
air throwing it all over.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419975#419975
; -Mat==============
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
03/09/14
Message 3
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| Subject: | Start Solenoid Trouble |
I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday when
I started the engine. After shut-down I heard a hissing sound coming
from the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
Firewall
I removed the assembly and disassembled it. I am not sure if I have the
original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor Yak
52 firewall forward. Here is a picture of the data plate on top:
dataplate
It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal
corrosion. I am located in a desert with low humidity but there is
obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing air. Here is
a picture of the bottom fitting:
Rusty
After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
Seal
So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge holes
rather than sealing up. The compressor cannot keep up with this leak
and therefore the aircraft is grounded. The other seal and the o-ring
look okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay. The solenoid
and valve Springs were rusty too.
Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly? Thanks.
Jim
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Start Solenoid Trouble |
Jim,
I stock a QDF-1 "service kit" which contains all the rubber seals etc.,
etc., however if the elec. solenoid is portion of the valve not functioning
it's a waste of time and money to try to repair it.
I have new QDF-1 start solenoids in stock if it comes to that. Give me a
call 509-826-4610
Doug
On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:52 AM, Jim <jim@jimivey.com> wrote:
> I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday when
> I started the engine. After shut-down I heard a hissing sound coming from
> the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
>
> [image: Firewall]
>
> I removed the assembly and disassembled it. I am not sure if I have the
> original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor Yak 52
> firewall forward. Here is a picture of the data plate on top:
>
> [image: dataplate]
>
> It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal
> corrosion. I am located in a desert with low humidity but there is
> obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing air. Here is a
> picture of the bottom fitting:
>
> [image: Rusty]
>
> After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
>
> [image: Seal]
>
> So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge holes
> rather than sealing up. The compressor cannot keep up with this leak and
> therefore the aircraft is grounded. The other seal and the o-ring look
> okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay. The solenoid and
> valve Springs were rusty too.
>
> Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly? Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Best,
Doug
After all is said and done, more is said than done."
-- Aesop
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Start Solenoid Trouble |
Doug has the air start valves. Yours looks like its in very bad shape.
Thus you might as well replace it. The letters on yours indicate it is
the Chinese version, which is 100% interchangeable with the Russian version.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 3/10/2014 11:52 AM, Jim wrote:
> I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday
> when I started the engine. After shut-down I heard a hissing sound
> coming from the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
>
> Firewall
>
> I removed the assembly and disassembled it. I am not sure if I have
> the original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor
> Yak 52 firewall forward. Here is a picture of the data plate on top:
>
> dataplate
>
> It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal
> corrosion. I am located in a desert with low humidity but there is
> obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing air. Here
> is a picture of the bottom fitting:
>
> Rusty
>
> After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
>
> Seal
>
> So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge holes
> rather than sealing up. The compressor cannot keep up with this leak
> and therefore the aircraft is grounded. The other seal and the o-ring
> look okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay. The
> solenoid and valve Springs were rusty too.
>
> Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly? Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
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