Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:38 PM - Re: Start Solenoid Trouble (Jim)
2. 01:55 PM - Re: Start Solenoid Trouble (jblake207@comcast.net)
3. 02:32 PM - Re: Start Solenoid Trouble (A. Dennis Savarese)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Start Solenoid Trouble |
Here are some shots of the compressed air dryer assembly on my CJ:
Drier On Firewall
Drier Size
The felt washers were kind of ugly and there was about 1 tablespoon of
dessicant as seen the blow-apart. Photo. There is no question I will
buy the new felt and desiccant kit at a minimum. The end caps are in
fine shape. I am not even sure if the dryer assembly was put together
right. On the input side there was a spring and a perforated plate
followed by two white felt washers and then a couple of green
Scotchbright looking washers, the desiccant, a another couple of green
washers and then a whole lot of white felt washers. Those were stacked
up on the exit end with a perforated plate and a small aluminum spacer
bushing looking thingy. The photo below shows the approximate stack-up:
Drier Blow Aparts
My only question is as on the housing itself. The inside is fairly
smooth with the original finish in the Aluminum. However, there is one
place that looks like longitudinal scrapes. Might be where somebody in
the past pushed a sharp object through. May also be exfoliation
corrosion. It's not bad but I can feel it with my finger:
Drier Bore
Drier Close Up
I am tempted to keep the housing and only go with new internal
components but always appreciate any advice.
Thanks,
Jim
On 3/10/2014 11:07 AM, doug sapp wrote:
> Jim,
> I stock a QDF-1 "service kit" which contains all the rubber seals
> etc., etc., however if the elec. solenoid is portion of the valve not
> functioning it's a waste of time and money to try to repair it.
>
> I have new QDF-1 start solenoids in stock if it comes to that. Give
> me a call 509-826-4610
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:52 AM, Jim <jim@jimivey.com
> <mailto:jim@jimivey.com>> wrote:
>
> I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open
> yesterday when I started the engine. After shut-down I heard a
> hissing sound coming from the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
>
> Firewall
>
> I removed the assembly and disassembled it. I am not sure if I
> have the original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the
> engine-donor Yak 52 firewall forward. Here is a picture of the
> data plate on top:
>
> dataplate
>
> It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal
> corrosion. I am located in a desert with low humidity but there
> is obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing
> air. Here is a picture of the bottom fitting:
>
> Rusty
>
> After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
>
> Seal
>
> So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge
> holes rather than sealing up. The compressor cannot keep up with
> this leak and therefore the aircraft is grounded. The other seal
> and the o-ring look okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes
> okay. The solenoid and valve Springs were rusty too.
>
> Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly? Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
>
> *
>
> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> --
> Best,
> Doug
> After all is said and done, more is said than done."
> -- Aesop
> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Start Solenoid Trouble |
Jim,=C2- I think most of would agree, this is a weak link in the air syst
em and should be replaced... either with a serviceable replacement aluminum
housing or even better, a stainless steel housing and steel end caps.=C2
- Think about it like this This little filter housing is sitting
next to your oil tank about 18 inches from your left leg
retains about 760 pounds of air pressure do you really want to re
install a housing that is pitted? I went with the stainless steel and now a
bout every six months change out the felt filters and desiccant. Sapp has t
hese kits for about $18; he also has the stainless housing, but I don
=99t remember the cost. It was well worth it for just the peace of mind. JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <jim@jimivey.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 3:37:33 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Start Solenoid Trouble
Here are some shots of the compressed air dryer assembly on my CJ:
The felt washers were kind of ugly and there was about 1 tablespoon of dess
icant as seen the blow-apart. Photo.=C2- There is no question I will buy
the new felt and desiccant kit at a minimum.=C2- The end caps are in fine
shape.=C2- I am not even sure if the dryer assembly was put together rig
ht.=C2- On the input side there was a spring and a perforated plate follo
wed by two white felt washers and then a couple of green Scotchbright looki
ng washers, the desiccant, a another couple of green washers and then a who
le lot of white felt washers.=C2- Those were stacked up on the exit end w
ith a perforated plate and a small aluminum spacer bushing looking thingy.
=C2- The photo below shows the approximate stack-up:
My only question is as on the housing itself.=C2- The inside is fairly sm
ooth with the original finish in the Aluminum.=C2- However, there is one
place that looks like longitudinal scrapes.=C2- Might be where somebody i
n the past pushed a sharp object through.=C2- May also be exfoliation cor
rosion.=C2- It's not bad but I can feel it with my finger:
I am tempted to keep the housing and only go with new internal components b
ut always appreciate any advice.
Thanks,
Jim
On 3/10/2014 11:07 AM, doug sapp wrote:
Jim,
I stock a QDF-1 "service kit" which contains all the rubber seals etc., etc
., however if the elec. solenoid is portion of the valve not functioning it
's a waste of time and money to try to repair it.=C2-
I have new QDF-1 start solenoids in stock if it comes to that. =C2-Give m
e a call 509-826-4610=C2-
Doug
On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:52 AM, Jim < jim@jimivey.com > wrote:
<blockquote>
I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday when I
started the engine.=C2- After shut-down I heard a hissing sound coming fr
om the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
I removed the assembly and disassembled it.=C2- I am not sure if I have t
he original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor Yak 5
2 firewall forward.=C2- Here is a picture of the data plate on top:
It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal corrosion.
=C2- I am located in a desert with low humidity but there is obviously pl
enty of moisture to go around when compressing air.=C2- Here is a picture
of the bottom fitting:
After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge holes rathe
r than sealing up.=C2- The compressor cannot keep up with this leak and t
herefore the aircraft is grounded.=C2- The other seal and the o-ring look
okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay.=C2- The solenoid an
d valve Springs were rusty too.
Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly?=C2- Thanks.
Jim
et="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List tp://forums.matr
onics.com
_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Best,
Doug
After all is said and done, more is said than done."
-- Aesop
</blockquote>
===
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Start Solenoid Trouble |
100% concur with Jon Blake.=C2- Replace with Doug's SS filter assembly.
=C2- Don't be "penny wise and pound foolish".=0ADennis=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____
____________________________=0A From: "jblake207@comcast.net" <jblake207@co
mcast.net>=0ATo: yak-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 3:
55 PM=0ASubject: Re: Yak-List: Start Solenoid Trouble=0A =0A=0A=0AJim,=C2
- I think most of would agree, this is a weak link in the air system and
should be replaced... either with a serviceable replacement aluminum housin
g or even better, a stainless steel housing and steel end caps.=C2- Think
about it like this This little filter housing is sitting next to
your oil tank about 18 inches from your left leg retains
about 760 pounds of air pressure do you really want to reinstall a
housing that is pitted? I went with the stainless steel and now about ever
y six months change out the felt filters and desiccant. Sapp has these kits
for about $18; he also has the stainless housing, but I don=99t reme
mber the cost. It was well worth it for just the peace of mind. JB=0A______
__________________________=0A =0AFrom: "Jim" <jim@jimivey.com>=0ATo: yak-li
st@matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 3:37:33 PM=0ASubject: Re:
Yak-List: Start Solenoid Trouble=0A=0A=0AHere are some shots of the compres
sed air dryer assembly on my CJ:=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AThe felt washers were kin
d of ugly and there was about 1 tablespoon of dessicant as seen the blow-ap
art. Photo.=C2- There is no question I will buy the new felt and desiccan
t kit at a minimum.=C2- The end caps are in fine shape.=C2- I am not ev
en sure if the dryer assembly was put together right.=C2- On the input si
de there was a spring and a perforated plate followed by two white felt was
hers and then a couple of green Scotchbright looking washers, the desiccant
, a another couple of green washers and then a whole lot of white felt wash
ers.=C2- Those were stacked up on the exit end with a perforated plate an
d a small aluminum spacer bushing looking thingy.=C2- The photo below sho
ws the approximate stack-up:=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AMy only question is as on the ho
using itself.=C2- The inside is fairly smooth with the original finish in
the Aluminum.=C2- However, there is one place that looks like longitudin
al scrapes.=C2- Might be where somebody in the past pushed a sharp object
through.=C2- May also be exfoliation corrosion.=C2- It's not bad but I
can feel it with my finger:=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AI am tempted to keep the hous
ing and only go with new internal components but always appreciate any advi
ce.=0A=0AThanks,=0A=0AJim=0A=0A=0AOn 3/10/2014 11:07 AM, doug sapp wrote:
=0A=0AJim, =0A>I stock a QDF-1 "service kit" which contains all the rubber
seals etc., etc., however if the elec. solenoid is portion of the valve not
functioning it's a waste of time and money to try to repair it.=C2-=0A>
=0A>=0A>I have new QDF-1 start solenoids in stock if it comes to that. =C2
-Give me a call 509-826-4610509-826-4610=C2-=0A>=0A>=0A>Doug=0A>=0A>=0A
>=0A>=0A>On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:52 AM, Jim <jim@jimivey.com> wrote:=0A>
=0A>I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday whe
n I started the engine.=C2- After shut-down I heard a hissing sound comin
g from the blow-off holes on the solenoid:=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>I r
emoved the assembly and disassembled it.=C2- I am not sure if I have the
original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor Yak 52 f
irewall forward.=C2- Here is a picture of the data plate on top:=0A>>=0A>
>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimi
lar metal corrosion.=C2- I am located in a desert with low humidity but t
here is obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing air.=C2
- Here is a picture of the bottom fitting:=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>A
fter disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:=0A>>=0A
>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from
the purge holes rather than sealing up.=C2- The compressor cannot keep u
p with this leak and therefore the aircraft is grounded.=C2- The other se
al and the o-ring look okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay.
=C2- The solenoid and valve Springs were rusty too.=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>Any ide
a where I can get parts or an assembly?=C2- Thanks.=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>Jim=0A>
>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-L
ist tp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on =0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>-- =0A>=0A>Best, =0A>Doug=0A>After all is said and done,
more is said than done."=0A>-- Aesop=0A=0Aet=_blank>http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?Yak-List=0Ap://forums.matronics.com=0Ablank>http://www.matro
=================== =0A=0A=0ACall=0AS
end SMS=0AAdd to Skype=0AYou'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype
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