Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:52 AM - Re: Yak 50 spades (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
2. 09:01 AM - Re: Yak 50 spades (Todd McCutchan)
3. 10:15 AM - Oil (Ernest Martinez)
4. 10:32 AM - Re: Oil (Jan Mevis)
5. 12:39 PM - Re: Oil (DaBear)
6. 02:21 PM - Re: Oil (Jim)
7. 03:14 PM - Re: Oil (Ernest Martinez)
8. 04:09 PM - Housai / Nanchang 285 hp engine, prop, SS exhaust for sale (david stroud)
9. 04:22 PM - Re: Oil (Jon Blake)
10. 05:12 PM - Re: Oil (keithmckinley)
11. 05:15 PM - Re: Re: Oil (Ernest Martinez)
12. 05:22 PM - Re: Oil (keithmckinley)
13. 05:28 PM - Re: Re: Oil (Ernest Martinez)
14. 06:48 PM - Re: Re: Oil (Roger Kemp)
15. 08:38 PM - Re: Re: Oil (cjpilot710@aol.com)
16. 11:35 PM - Re: Re: Oil (Jan Mevis)
17. 11:37 PM - Re: Oil (Walter Lannon)
Message 1
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Todd, are you speaking Spades or Shovels?
The shovels go on the end of the aileron, and spades of course attach underneath
the aileron vis--vis how it works on the Sukhoi's.
FYI, no original Russian designed YAK-50 ever had spades attached, as the structure
of the aileron was not intended to carry that loading.
Shovels on the other hand, were installed by the factory.
Since spare ailerons are not all that easy to find these days, I'd advise caution
in installing Spades.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd McCutchan
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 1:23 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Yak 50 spades
I am looking for aileron spades for the Yak 50.
Please contact me if you have or know of any for sale.
My info is below.
Kind regards,
Todd McCutchan
T-34A & Yak-50
Cell: (260) 402-1740
E-mail: todd@fastaircraft.com
www.fastaircraft.com
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Yak 50 spades |
Sorry. I should have been more accurate.
The "load removing aileron" or "shovels" which attach to the end of the aile
ron.
As you pointed out Mark I am not aware of any traditional "spades" mounting t
o the top or bottom of the aileron; only the end of them. Agree with your as
sessment.
Cheers!
Todd McCutchan
T-34A & Yak-50
Cell: (260) 402-1740
E-mail: todd@fastaircraft.com
www.fastaircraft.com
> On Jul 14, 2014, at 8:50 AM, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bit
terlich@navy.mil> wrote:
>
bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Todd, are you speaking Spades or Shovels?
>
> The shovels go on the end of the aileron, and spades of course attach unde
rneath the aileron vis-=C3--vis how it works on the Sukhoi's.
>
> FYI, no original Russian designed YAK-50 ever had spades attached, as the s
tructure of the aileron was not intended to carry that loading.
>
> Shovels on the other hand, were installed by the factory.
>
> Since spare ailerons are not all that easy to find these days, I'd advise c
aution in installing Spades.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd McCutchan
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 1:23 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Yak 50 spades
>
> I am looking for aileron spades for the Yak 50.
>
> Please contact me if you have or know of any for sale.
>
> My info is below.
>
> Kind regards,
> Todd McCutchan
> T-34A & Yak-50
> Cell: (260) 402-1740
> E-mail: todd@fastaircraft.com
> www.fastaircraft.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
Message 3
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|
In my previous CJ I used to use the Phillips 25/60 Radial Engine Oil and
was happy with it. My new plane has been running AeroShell all of it's US
life ( 12+ years) and it's a strong, very dry, motor thats working just
fine with excellent oil analysis trends.
My first thought was to switch to the Phillips at next oil change, but then
my 2nd thought was "if it aint broke don't fix it".
I was hoping to get some thoughts on this, since I'm not sure what makes
"Radial Engine Oil" any different than flat engine oil.
Ernie
Message 4
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Here in Europe we can't readily find the Phillips 25/60 Radial Engine Oil,
but we use Aeroshell W100 also specially made for radials.
Total D100 in France, but that's the same.
Radial Engine Oil has absolutely no synthetic parts. It is single grade.
It is very important NOT to use any semi-synthetic oil on a radial: the
pressures caused by the main piston in the crankshaft (the nr 4 in M14P) are
so high that they would crack the synthetic oil molecules, making the oil
"less lubricating".
Only my 2 cents,
Jan
From: Ernest Martinez <erniel29@gmail.com>
Subject: Yak-List: Oil
In my previous CJ I used to use the Phillips 25/60 Radial Engine Oil and was
happy with it. My new plane has been running AeroShell all of it's US life (
12+ years) and it's a strong, very dry, motor thats working just fine with
excellent oil analysis trends.
My first thought was to switch to the Phillips at next oil change, but then
my 2nd thought was "if it aint broke don't fix it".
I was hoping to get some thoughts on this, since I'm not sure what makes
"Radial Engine Oil" any different than flat engine oil.
Ernie
Message 5
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Ernie,
I=99ve used the 25/60 multi-weight oil for both of my
M14=99s and I did switch from the 100W that the previous owner
used to the 25w60 for the Housai. That said, I wouldn=99t switch
from 100W unless you really had a reason. One thing with the 100w is
that since many of the flat engine airplanes use it, it is easier to
find while travelling.
Good luck with the new CJ
Bear
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest
Martinez
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 1:15 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Oil
In my previous CJ I used to use the Phillips 25/60 Radial Engine Oil and
was happy with it. My new plane has been running AeroShell all of it's
US life ( 12+ years) and it's a strong, very dry, motor thats working
just fine with excellent oil analysis trends.
My first thought was to switch to the Phillips at next oil change, but
then my 2nd thought was "if it aint broke don't fix it".
I was hoping to get some thoughts on this, since I'm not sure what makes
"Radial Engine Oil" any different than flat engine oil.
Ernie
Message 6
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Ernie,
You didn't specify if the Aeroshell your airplane has been using was
W100, W120 or a multi-grade . I use Aeroshell W120 and found it best
for my high temperature environment. Years ago I got smart and tried
multi-weight and even worse added Lenkite. The thing leaked out oil
like shit out of a Christmas goose. Went back to Aeroshell W120 and
haven't looked back.
Even more important would be an engine (unlike yours) that had been run
on non-detergent mineral oil. A good way to die would be switching from
straight mineral oil to detergent oil (AD). I know somebody that had a
total catastrophic failure when he switched to AD oil and the detergent
did it's job and loosened up all the "sleeping" gunk and deposits in the
engine which plugged the oil system. Over Lake Washington.
It is never a good idea to switch horses midstream (say after 100SMOH or
so) when it comes to oil.
Jim
On 7/14/2014 1:37 PM, DaBear wrote:
>
> Ernie,
>
> Ive used the 25/60 multi-weight oil for both of my M14s and I did
> switch from the 100W that the previous owner used to the 25w60 for the
> Housai. That said, I wouldnt switch from 100W unless you really had
> a reason. One thing with the 100w is that since many of the flat
> engine airplanes use it, it is easier to find while travelling.
>
> Good luck with the new CJ
>
> Bear
>
> *From:*owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Ernest
> Martinez
> *Sent:* Monday, July 14, 2014 1:15 PM
> *To:* yak-list
> *Subject:* Yak-List: Oil
>
> In my previous CJ I used to use the Phillips 25/60 Radial Engine Oil
> and was happy with it. My new plane has been running AeroShell all of
> it's US life ( 12+ years) and it's a strong, very dry, motor thats
> working just fine with excellent oil analysis trends.
>
> My first thought was to switch to the Phillips at next oil change, but
> then my 2nd thought was "if it aint broke don't fix it".
>
> I was hoping to get some thoughts on this, since I'm not sure what
> makes "Radial Engine Oil" any different than flat engine oil.
>
> Ernie
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List*
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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|
I'm currently on Aeroshell W100. But I'm in Florida and wondering if W120
would be better for the hot weather here. But I have to say that this is
one of the driest Housai motors I've seen.
Ernie
On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 5:20 PM, Jim <jim@jimivey.com> wrote:
> Ernie,
>
> You didn't specify if the Aeroshell your airplane has been using was W100
,
> W120 or a multi-grade . I use Aeroshell W120 and found it best for my hi
gh
> temperature environment. Years ago I got smart and tried multi-weight an
d
> even worse added Lenkite. The thing leaked out oil like shit out of a
> Christmas goose. Went back to Aeroshell W120 and haven't looked back.
>
> Even more important would be an engine (unlike yours) that had been run o
n
> non-detergent mineral oil. A good way to die would be switching from
> straight mineral oil to detergent oil (AD). I know somebody that had a
> total catastrophic failure when he switched to AD oil and the detergent d
id
> it's job and loosened up all the "sleeping" gunk and deposits in the engi
ne
> which plugged the oil system. Over Lake Washington.
>
> It is never a good idea to switch horses midstream (say after 100SMOH or
> so) when it comes to oil.
>
> Jim
>
>
> On 7/14/2014 1:37 PM, DaBear wrote:
>
> Ernie,
>
>
> I=99ve used the 25/60 multi-weight oil for both of my M14=99s
and I did switch
> from the 100W that the previous owner used to the 25w60 for the Housai.
> That said, I wouldn=99t switch from 100W unless you really had a re
ason. One
> thing with the 100w is that since many of the flat engine airplanes use i
t,
> it is easier to find while travelling.
>
>
> Good luck with the new CJ
>
>
> Bear
>
>
> *From:* owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [
> mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> <owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Ernest Martinez
> *Sent:* Monday, July 14, 2014 1:15 PM
> *To:* yak-list
> *Subject:* Yak-List: Oil
>
>
> In my previous CJ I used to use the Phillips 25/60 Radial Engine Oil and
> was happy with it. My new plane has been running AeroShell all of it's US
> life ( 12+ years) and it's a strong, very dry, motor thats working just
> fine with excellent oil analysis trends.
>
>
> My first thought was to switch to the Phillips at next oil change, but
> then my 2nd thought was "if it aint broke don't fix it".
>
>
> I was hoping to get some thoughts on this, since I'm not sure what makes
> "Radial Engine Oil" any different than flat engine oil.
>
>
> Ernie
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List <http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?Yak-List>*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>*
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/cont
ribution>*
>
>
> *
>
===========
nics.com/Navigator?Yak-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Housai / Nanchang 285 hp engine, prop, SS exhaust for sale |
Hope I post this right lads.
I have an engine, prop and exhaust for sale. Removed about 4 years ago
and replaced
with MP14 by Victoria Air Mtce in BC, Canada.
No logs....reportedly 350 hrs. Engine complete. in Ottawa, Canada and I
could
deliver to a reasonable distance for cost or get it to Forward Air in
upstate, NY.
This engine needs to be sold, my project is abandoned due to health etc.
any reasonable
offer considered.
Thanks...
Dave Stroud
dwstroud@xplornet.com 613-227-8852
Message 9
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L3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbiBfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PSA
Message 10
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I'd like to know what the "driest housai I've ever seen" has to do with oil type.
yawn....
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426678#426678
Message 11
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Which part don't you understand?
On Monday, July 14, 2014, keithmckinley <cetopfed@gmail.com> wrote:
> <javascript:;>>
>
> I'd like to know what the "driest housai I've ever seen" has to do with
> oil type. yawn....
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> X26 Sebastian, FL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426678#426678
>
>
Message 12
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see the don't fix it if ain't broke post or maybe search past posts. Lots of info
out there. lighten up.
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426680#426680
Message 13
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Thanks for your valuable post. Sorry to bore you.
Ernie
On Monday, July 14, 2014, keithmckinley <cetopfed@gmail.com> wrote:
> <javascript:;>>
>
> see the don't fix it if ain't broke post or maybe search past posts. Lots
> of info out there. lighten up.
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> X26 Sebastian, FL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426680#426680
>
>
Message 14
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Ditto.
VD
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 14, 2014, at 7:11 PM, keithmckinley <cetopfed@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'd like to know what the "driest housai I've ever seen" has to do with oil type.
yawn....
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> X26 Sebastian, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426678#426678
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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Guys,
I've been flying airplanes for over 50 years, and the only shit I really
know for certain about is that IF you keep your engine on mineral oil, NEVER
mix in a detergent oil. It use to be that mineral oil was used to break-in
an engine after overhaul, than you either continued to use mineral oil or
you switch to a detergent oil. Times change and you very seldom find
mineral oil in stock at FBOs anymore. If you happened to run into a place
that didn't have detergent oil - you could add mineral oil to get to you next
stop. NOT SO if you used just mineral oil. I've always used a straight
grade detergent oil in my M14p (SAE100 winter 120 summer). You can mix the
two grades in a pinch. My experience with multi grade oils (beside being
expensive) was always the engine suddenly seem to be leaking oil all over
the place. I DO NOT KNOW WHY, but except with normal leaks one always finds
on radials (mostly push rod tubes and rocker covers) my engine stayed
pretty clean most of the time. But one oil change I went to multi grade, and
I
had oil every where in an engine that was dry before.
When it comes to which oil is better, I'm no expert but what will extend
the life of an engine are four things. A good pre-oiler. A good oil filter
(20 micros or less). Regular oil changes. And keep 'back loading" to a
minimum and reduced max power operation. ( I guess that's 5) The engines
on the B-17 and B-24 I get to fly are more sensitive to handling than they
are to oil (however the foundation does use multi grade) and because the
engines USE oil precociously ( 1 gal/hr ) we don't do oil changes. (besides
have you ever tried to dispose of 30 gals at one time?) But we regularly
get 1,500 hours on them between overhauls. I believe its mostly because we
use pre-oilers religiously and have really fine oil filters. Plus how we
operate the engines has a significant effect. I am sure one could make an
argument on the advantages/disadvantages of one oil over the other. I
personally prefer a straight grade.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 7/14/2014 9:48:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
f16viperdoc@me.com writes:
--> Yak-List message posted by: Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com>
Ditto.
VD
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 14, 2014, at 7:11 PM, keithmckinley <cetopfed@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "keithmckinley" <cetopfed@gmail.com>
>
> I'd like to know what the "driest housai I've ever seen" has to do with
oil type. yawn....
>
> --------
> Keith McKinley
> 700HS
> X26 Sebastian, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426678#426678
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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Actually, the term detergent oil is an obsolete term, ashless dispersant is
more accurate.
Detergent oils were traditionally the heavy truck engine oils containing
ashless dispersants AND ash containing detergents.
Because of the negative effect on aircraft engine performance,
ash-containing oils must not be used on aircraft piston engines.
The reverse is also true: never use an aircraft piston engine oil in a
modern car or heavy duty truck because of the hughe differences in
metallurgy, operating conditions and fuel specifications.
The straight mineral oil Aeroshell 100 is absolutely "pure": no additives,
straight mineral oil. The Aeroshell W100 has a non ash forming, polymeric
additive.
This polymeric additive is to compensate the (early) demand for additives on
mineral oil for the high performance aircraft piston engines.
The ancient additives were based on metallic salts of barium (I think). And
thus caused ash deposits in the combustion chambers.
But they were needed for additional thermal stability.
A multigrade oil like the Aeroshell W 15W-50 (lycoming etc) is about 50/50
straight mineral oil and synthetic hydrocarbons plus ashless dispersant
additives.
They must not be used on radials because the synthetic hydrocarbons can't
stand the high pressures in the cranckshaft of a radial.
I personally use Aeroshell W 100 PLUS, that is Aeroshell W100 plus the
Lycoming LW 16702 anti-wear additive. This helps when you don't run the
engine very often.
Jan
Yak 50 with M14R engine
From: <cjpilot710@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Oil
Guys,
I've been flying airplanes for over 50 years, and the only shit I really
know for certain about is that IF you keep your engine on mineral oil, NEVER
mix in a detergent oil. It use to be that mineral oil was used to break-in
an engine after overhaul, than you either continued to use mineral oil or
you switch to a detergent oil. Times change and you very seldom find
mineral oil in stock at FBOs anymore. If you happened to run into a place
that didn't have detergent oil - you could add mineral oil to get to you
next stop. NOT SO if you used just mineral oil. I've always used a
straight grade detergent oil in my M14p (SAE100 winter 120 summer). You can
mix the two grades in a pinch. My experience with multi grade oils (beside
being expensive) was always the engine suddenly seem to be leaking oil all
over the place. I DO NOT KNOW WHY, but except with normal leaks one always
finds on radials (mostly push rod tubes and rocker covers) my engine stayed
pretty clean most of the time. But one oil change I went to multi grade,
and I had oil every where in an engine that was dry before.
When it comes to which oil is better, I'm no expert but what will extend the
life of an engine are four things. A good pre-oiler. A good oil filter (20
micros or less). Regular oil changes. And keep 'back loading" to a minimum
and reduced max power operation. ( I guess that's 5) The engines on the
B-17 and B-24 I get to fly are more sensitive to handling than they are to
oil (however the foundation does use multi grade) and because the engines
USE oil precociously ( 1 gal/hr ) we don't do oil changes. (besides have
you ever tried to dispose of 30 gals at one time?) But we regularly get
1,500 hours on them between overhauls. I believe its mostly because we use
pre-oilers religiously and have really fine oil filters. Plus how we
operate the engines has a significant effect. I am sure one could make an
argument on the advantages/disadvantages of one oil over the other. I
personally prefer a straight grade.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 7/14/2014 9:48:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
f16viperdoc@me.com writes:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com>
>
> Ditto.
> VD
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> > On Jul 14, 2014, at 7:11 PM, keithmckinley <cetopfed@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > --> Yak-List message posted by: "keithmckinley" <cetopfed@gmail.com>
>> >
>> > I'd like to know what the "driest housai I've ever seen" has to do with
>> oil type. yawn....
>> >
>> > --------
>> > Keith McKinley
>> > 700HS
>> > X26 Sebastian, FL
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426678#426678
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ies ay - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - List
>> Contribution Web Site p;
>
>
>
Message 17
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Hi Ernie;
I would recommend that you stay with the Aeroshell W oils. Your
location does not experience severe temperature changes so W100 winter
and W120 summer should be just fine.
With just one exception all of the approved aviation (piston) engine
oils are mineral oils. This includes the Phillips X/C 20W50 and 25W60.
As far as I know, the only difference (if you can refer to it as such)
between radial and opposed engine oils is the recommended viscosity.
There is no such thing as an aviation detergent oil (though I believe
there was, briefly, some 60 + years ago). There are three basic
varieties of aviation mineral oils. 1. No additives (straight) e.g: 100
SUS or 50 SAE. 2. An ashless dispersant additive (AD oils) e.g: W100/
W50. ( the W is used by Aeroshell & Phillips other companies may have
different designators)
3. Multi-Grade AD oils with a viscosity modifier added e.g: Phillips
X/C 25W60, Aeroshell 15W50. Both use SAE viscosity numbers (60 SAE =
120 SUS).
The exception referred to above is the Aeroshell multi-grade. It is a
50% synthetic. It appears to be a very good oil for relatively modern
opposed engines but I would not use it in any radial. Apparently it
has been improved over the years but:- I used it in an E225 Continental
years ago and found (compared to the previous W100) the oil pressure
dropped, oil temp. increased and, over time, it seeped right through
the crankcase! About the same time a friend put it in his Harvard
(R1340) and shortly after parked it for about 3 months. When he
returned there was no oil left.
Personally I have been using 25W60 for some time in CJ=99s and
Harvard=99s primarily due to the seasonal temperature change (
=9310C to 40C).
Walt
From: Ernest Martinez
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Oil
I'm currently on Aeroshell W100. But I'm in Florida and wondering if
W120 would be better for the hot weather here. But I have to say that
this is one of the driest Housai motors I've seen.
Ernie
On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 5:20 PM, Jim <jim@jimivey.com> wrote:
Ernie,
You didn't specify if the Aeroshell your airplane has been using was
W100, W120 or a multi-grade . I use Aeroshell W120 and found it best
for my high temperature environment. Years ago I got smart and tried
multi-weight and even worse added Lenkite. The thing leaked out oil
like shit out of a Christmas goose. Went back to Aeroshell W120 and
haven't looked back.
Even more important would be an engine (unlike yours) that had been
run on non-detergent mineral oil. A good way to die would be switching
from straight mineral oil to detergent oil (AD). I know somebody that
had a total catastrophic failure when he switched to AD oil and the
detergent did it's job and loosened up all the "sleeping" gunk and
deposits in the engine which plugged the oil system. Over Lake
Washington.
It is never a good idea to switch horses midstream (say after 100SMOH
or so) when it comes to oil.
Jim
On 7/14/2014 1:37 PM, DaBear wrote:
Ernie,
I=99ve used the 25/60 multi-weight oil for both of my
M14=99s and I did switch from the 100W that the previous owner
used to the 25w60 for the Housai. That said, I wouldn=99t switch
from 100W unless you really had a reason. One thing with the 100w is
that since many of the flat engine airplanes use it, it is easier to
find while travelling.
Good luck with the new CJ
Bear
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest
Martinez
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 1:15 PM
To: yak-list
Subject: Yak-List: Oil
In my previous CJ I used to use the Phillips 25/60 Radial Engine Oil
and was happy with it. My new plane has been running AeroShell all of
it's US life ( 12+ years) and it's a strong, very dry, motor thats
working just fine with excellent oil analysis trends.
My first thought was to switch to the Phillips at next oil change,
but then my 2nd thought was "if it aint broke don't fix it".
I was hoping to get some thoughts on this, since I'm not sure what
makes "Radial Engine Oil" any different than flat engine oil.
Ernie
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