---------------------------------------------------------- Yak-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 08/23/14: 2 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 09:54 AM - CJ air system advice (Kurt Howerton) 2. 11:13 AM - Re: CJ air system advice (doug sapp) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 09:54:10 AM PST US Subject: Yak-List: CJ air system advice From: Kurt Howerton I was hoping to get a little advice about my air system. I've been battling an air leak for some time and thought I had it tracked down to the main air valve (pressure equalized over a couple of days - no movement when opening the air valve). I ordered a replacement from Doug. In the process of removing the old (heavily corroded, I might add), I snapped the line from the main tank right at the fitting. I was quite careful and used a fitting wrench. I suspect this was where the leak was all along. So the question becomes, "what's the best way to fix this?" I'm not looking forward to replacing the whole line due to the route it takes - behind everything else. Is there a way to use a flexible braided line? I figure I'll have to splice in a stub. What would I need to accomplish that? Other than that, I'm ready to put the valve back in. -- -- Kurt "It" Howerton N923YK 916-282-9231 http://cj6.scitechsys.com http://www.baybombersquadron.com ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 11:13:49 AM PST US Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ air system advice From: doug sapp Call me, I have the male-male flair splicer fitting in stock. Doug On Sat, Aug 23, 2014 at 9:53 AM, Kurt Howerton wrote: > I was hoping to get a little advice about my air system. I've been > battling an air leak for some time and thought I had it tracked down to the > main air valve (pressure equalized over a couple of days - no movement when > opening the air valve). I ordered a replacement from Doug. In the process > of removing the old (heavily corroded, I might add), I snapped the line > from the main tank right at the fitting. I was quite careful and used a > fitting wrench. I suspect this was where the leak was all along. > > So the question becomes, "what's the best way to fix this?" I'm not > looking forward to replacing the whole line due to the route it takes - > behind everything else. Is there a way to use a flexible braided line? > > I figure I'll have to splice in a stub. What would I need to accomplish > that? > > Other than that, I'm ready to put the valve back in. > > > -- > -- > Kurt "It" Howerton > N923YK > 916-282-9231 > http://cj6.scitechsys.com > http://www.baybombersquadron.com > > * > > > * > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message yak-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Yak-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/yak-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/yak-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.