Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:21 AM - Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in December! (Matt Dralle)
1. 08:05 AM - Re: Removing Gills (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
2. 08:07 AM - Re: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
3. 12:17 PM - Re: Removing Gills (ronpenrose)
4. 02:29 PM - Re: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it (Roger Kemp)
5. 02:37 PM - Re: Re: Removing Gills (Roger Kemp)
6. 06:40 PM - Re: Removing Gills (Roger Kemp)
7. 10:56 PM - Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (Steve Geard)
8. 11:04 PM - Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52 (Steve Geard)
9. 11:48 PM - Re: PARTS CLEAROUT (maggieannya)
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| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in |
December!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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Not to mention, putting it all back together and then having it jam closed in flight
because of a small error when reassembling the darn thing, thus frying the
engine.
On the chance of awakening a sleeping giant, I will say that on my 50, the gills
HAVE been removed. Permanently. Instead of painted red gill slats, you see
a nice big round motor.
That said, I do not fly in sub-freezing temperatures, and I also had to fabricate
4 support rods that mount from the engine to the gill ring to regain the necessary
support the gill arrangement normally provides.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
Taking those bolts loose will not let you remove you oil tube ( the snout you refer
to). Look at shaft of you oil tube. You will see a nut at the base of the
polished tip that pushes oil into and out of the piston in the prop hub. Take
the appropriate Mexican Speed wrench (adjustable) to loosen it. Careful, there
is washer at the base. Put a clean rag in you prop shaft to keep FOD out.
You will have to remove all of those slotted safety wire screws around the ring
that supported the defection plate at the base of the hub that you have already
removed.
At the 0530 position you will see two ~8 mm bolts that on the back side attaches
to a lever that opens and closes you gills. That all has to come off.
Then if you look around the base of louvers there are ? 11 mm bolts the bolt the
ring to the nose case. Slowly loosen them all together so you are going loosen
one a little, move to the next one, then the next one until you have all the
walked around the ring. That is because over the top of the bolts is a slot
in the perpendicular ring that prevents the bolts from backing completely out
if they loosened in flight.
You also have to take those cooling trumpets off. You will have to take the outer
ring braces loose that attach the ring to the nine cylinders. Do not lose those
spacers at the base of those L brackets that mounts them to the stud on the
cylinders. Impossible to find replacements.
Now that all of that is disconnected you can remove the louvers from the prop hub.
Look at your prop hub. You will see two flat sides on an otherwise round flange.
You will basically lift up the base ring behind the flange over one of
those flat sides in the flange. You then rotate the ring around the flange like
you would remove a lid from a gallon of paint if you intended to use the lide
again that is. Yes I am talking about warping the base ring to slide it off
the prop flange.
Sure you still want to do this?
Have fun.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:46 AM, ronpenrose <rpenrose@kc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all. I am a relatively new Yak owner since July. I am in the process of dismantling
a few things for painting and having a problem figuring out how to remove
the gills framework. I have removed the prop and hub. I am thinking the
snout and the cast piece in front of gills needs to come off but cannot figure
out how to remove. I did remove the four bolts at the base of the snout but it
will not budge and cautious of using too much persuasion.
>
> I have attached pic.
>
> Any hints to going the last mile on this greatly appreciated.
>
> --------
> Ron Penrose
> YAK-52 N352BW
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433318#433318
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20141110_074357_282.jpg
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
I'd actually like to rebuild the whole arrangement with western made check valves,
filter, and pop-off valve. Saw it done on a Sukhoi, looked up the pressure
relief valve and it retailed for $800. Wow.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
On the YAK 50, the Chinese check valves work also. Did not know about Goerge rebuilding
the check valves until after I had replaced mine with brand new ones
Doug Sapp.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:45 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> After a day or two of not flying... open the snot valve. If you hear a loud
hiss of air, you more than likely have air leaking through the check valves and
back into the compressor line.
>
> Next, use external air to fill both tanks. Then (one at a time) remove the
lines coming into the check valve assembly (described in a previous email) that
are coming from the engine compressor to the check valve assembly. If you
want, you can take a balloon and put it over the fitting of the check valve you
just removed the line from coming from the engine, to snot valve, to check valve
assembly. Tie it on there tight and leave it for a few hours and see if
it blows up.
>
> If nothing happens, you can go back to the external fill port and put soapy water
there... look for air coming out the external fill port. This checks THAT
check valve. You could also take off the fitting going to the external fill
port at the check valve assembly and use the balloon trick again.
>
> Realize if you have air coming out of EITHER of these, you also will a check
valve bad going to one of the two AIR tanks.
>
> If you decide you have a check valve leaking, send all four to George Coy and
his son, and they will rebuild them for you.
>
>
> That's a little bit of a start to get you going anyway.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of yakxx21
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:06 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
>
>
> why would temperature effect it ?....looking at the diagram it seems
> it can only go back to the charging point (which its not) or leak
> around the tank itself (cant see any soapy leaks) or lose something
> through the check valve going to engine driven compressor and Im not
> sure how to check that
>
> also im not sure if the SNOT valve would affect it if left open----or if not
sealing correctly....
>
> finally I suppose I could change the pressure release rubber again....
>
> frustrating
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433323#433323
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Gills |
Mark, Interesting about removing the gills. Unfortunately, here in the mid-west
I need to close them when to keep everything in green arc!
Doc, I went to the plane today read/re-read your procedures. I am attaching a
pdf with pictures associated with your procedure and a couple of needed clarification
areas. I want to make sure I fully understand before jumping into this
if I decide to. After looking at it today, it does not seem so daunting other
than time consuming (but keeping in mind Mark's comment also).
Ron
--------
Ron Penrose
YAK-52 N352BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433542#433542
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/removing_gill_framework_850.pdf
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
Doug's supplies are no where that expensive for the whole H.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 12, 2014, at 10:06 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
>
> I'd actually like to rebuild the whole arrangement with western made check valves,
filter, and pop-off valve. Saw it done on a Sukhoi, looked up the pressure
relief valve and it retailed for $800. Wow.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:50 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
>
>
> On the YAK 50, the Chinese check valves work also. Did not know about Goerge
rebuilding the check valves until after I had replaced mine with brand new ones
Doug Sapp.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:45 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>>
>> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>> After a day or two of not flying... open the snot valve. If you hear a loud
hiss of air, you more than likely have air leaking through the check valves
and back into the compressor line.
>>
>> Next, use external air to fill both tanks. Then (one at a time) remove the
lines coming into the check valve assembly (described in a previous email) that
are coming from the engine compressor to the check valve assembly. If you
want, you can take a balloon and put it over the fitting of the check valve you
just removed the line from coming from the engine, to snot valve, to check
valve assembly. Tie it on there tight and leave it for a few hours and see if
it blows up.
>>
>> If nothing happens, you can go back to the external fill port and put soapy
water there... look for air coming out the external fill port. This checks THAT
check valve. You could also take off the fitting going to the external fill
port at the check valve assembly and use the balloon trick again.
>>
>> Realize if you have air coming out of EITHER of these, you also will a check
valve bad going to one of the two AIR tanks.
>>
>> If you decide you have a check valve leaking, send all four to George Coy and
his son, and they will rebuild them for you.
>>
>>
>> That's a little bit of a start to get you going anyway.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of yakxx21
>> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:06 AM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
>>
>>
>> why would temperature effect it ?....looking at the diagram it seems
>> it can only go back to the charging point (which its not) or leak
>> around the tank itself (cant see any soapy leaks) or lose something
>> through the check valve going to engine driven compressor and Im not
>> sure how to check that
>>
>> also im not sure if the SNOT valve would affect it if left open----or if not
sealing correctly....
>>
>> finally I suppose I could change the pressure release rubber again....
>>
>> frustrating
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433323#433323
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Gills |
Ron,
You are dead on with your pix and my description.
Once all of those bolts, braces, and screws are loose the louver ring will be somewhat
flexible. Pick a flat side on the prop flange and lift that inner ring
up over the top of that flange. You then rotate it around the flange until the
whole ring lifts off free. Think about how you take an auto tire off the rime.
The Russians made it a little easier by giving you two flat places on the outer
side of the prop flange.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 12, 2014, at 2:16 PM, ronpenrose <rpenrose@kc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mark, Interesting about removing the gills. Unfortunately, here in the mid-west
I need to close them when to keep everything in green arc!
>
> Doc, I went to the plane today read/re-read your procedures. I am attaching
a pdf with pictures associated with your procedure and a couple of needed clarification
areas. I want to make sure I fully understand before jumping into this
if I decide to. After looking at it today, it does not seem so daunting other
than time consuming (but keeping in mind Mark's comment also).
>
> Ron
>
> --------
> Ron Penrose
> YAK-52 N352BW
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433542#433542
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/removing_gill_framework_850.pdf
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Gills |
That is a rigging problem. Measure the length of threads showing on the threaded
rod swageged onto the control cable that connects to the lever that opens and
closes the louvers. There is a jam nut at the base of the bullet shaped connector
threaded onto the end of the control cable. Measure the length of threads
from the jam nut to the none threaded length of the shaft. Coming out at a right
angle is shaft with a ball at one end that fits in that bullet allowing it
to articulate with the control cable. The other end of the shaft has a molded
~5 mm nut on it that flows into a threaded shaft that is screwed into that lever
I referred to that is in the 0530 position that opens and closes the vanes
on their access in the ring.
Now saying all of that, as I learned the hard way, you do not have to loosen the
bullet on the control cable. Just loosen that threaded on shaft from the louver
lever. If memory serves there is also a 5 mm nut on the bolt that threads
through the louver lever.
Fun an games
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 12, 2014, at 10:04 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
>
> Not to mention, putting it all back together and then having it jam closed in
flight because of a small error when reassembling the darn thing, thus frying
the engine.
>
> On the chance of awakening a sleeping giant, I will say that on my 50, the gills
HAVE been removed. Permanently. Instead of painted red gill slats, you see
a nice big round motor.
>
> That said, I do not fly in sub-freezing temperatures, and I also had to fabricate
4 support rods that mount from the engine to the gill ring to regain the
necessary support the gill arrangement normally provides.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:44 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
>
>
> Taking those bolts loose will not let you remove you oil tube ( the snout you
refer to). Look at shaft of you oil tube. You will see a nut at the base of the
polished tip that pushes oil into and out of the piston in the prop hub. Take
the appropriate Mexican Speed wrench (adjustable) to loosen it. Careful, there
is washer at the base. Put a clean rag in you prop shaft to keep FOD out.
> You will have to remove all of those slotted safety wire screws around the ring
that supported the defection plate at the base of the hub that you have already
removed.
> At the 0530 position you will see two ~8 mm bolts that on the back side attaches
to a lever that opens and closes you gills. That all has to come off.
> Then if you look around the base of louvers there are ? 11 mm bolts the bolt
the ring to the nose case. Slowly loosen them all together so you are going loosen
one a little, move to the next one, then the next one until you have all
the walked around the ring. That is because over the top of the bolts is a slot
in the perpendicular ring that prevents the bolts from backing completely out
if they loosened in flight.
> You also have to take those cooling trumpets off. You will have to take the outer
ring braces loose that attach the ring to the nine cylinders. Do not lose
those spacers at the base of those L brackets that mounts them to the stud on
the cylinders. Impossible to find replacements.
> Now that all of that is disconnected you can remove the louvers from the prop
hub. Look at your prop hub. You will see two flat sides on an otherwise round
flange. You will basically lift up the base ring behind the flange over one of
those flat sides in the flange. You then rotate the ring around the flange like
you would remove a lid from a gallon of paint if you intended to use the lide
again that is. Yes I am talking about warping the base ring to slide it off
the prop flange.
> Sure you still want to do this?
> Have fun.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:46 AM, ronpenrose <rpenrose@kc.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all. I am a relatively new Yak owner since July. I am in the process of dismantling
a few things for painting and having a problem figuring out how to
remove the gills framework. I have removed the prop and hub. I am thinking the
snout and the cast piece in front of gills needs to come off but cannot figure
out how to remove. I did remove the four bolts at the base of the snout but
it will not budge and cautious of using too much persuasion.
>>
>> I have attached pic.
>>
>> Any hints to going the last mile on this greatly appreciated.
>>
>> --------
>> Ron Penrose
>> YAK-52 N352BW
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433318#433318
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20141110_074357_282.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
Hi everyone. This is a very important topic, and deserves as much discussion as
possible.
My Yak55m doesn't appear to auto rotate and will stop any type of spin with opposite
rudder and central/forward stick.
In my limited time in Yak52's I have avoided flat spins due to various reports
I have read. Aft CofG is not the 52's friend.
My understanding of FLAT spin recovery is.... "Into spin aileron" acts as a secondary
rudder, by "more stalling the least stalled wing" & "less stalling the
most stalled wing" hense reducing the yaw rate by altering the drag on the wings.
The down going aileron also goes into high pressure where as the upgoing aileron
goes into low pressure, the result is also reduced yaw rate.
Anyone want to expand on those concepts. Understanding what is happening is a good
place to start for us all :-) Cheers Steve.
--------
SteveO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433563#433563
Message 8
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| Subject: | Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52 |
Hey up. I'm looking to ream out and replace the wing attachment bolts on my Yak55m
with some oversized bolts +0.5mm. I must be a bit hard on the old dear as
she's developed a bit of play on both sides.
The NZ CAA requires the usual screeds of paperwork.
Anyone know of any oversize bolts that come with paperwork. Or any design work
thats been documented. Has anyone got any info on Yak52's having larger bolts
installed?
Cheers Steve :D
--------
SteveO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433564#433564
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: PARTS CLEAROUT |
We are Chinese aircraft parts trader,including CJ-6, If there is anyone will be
interesting in them, pls feel free to contact me for the details. email: purchase1@ato-group.com
TEL:008613619294904
--------
This is Maggie from Xi'an ATO Electronics.
We are Chinese aircraft parts trader in China
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433566#433566
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