Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:23 AM - YAK 52 Instruction (Rob737998)
2. 12:45 AM - Re: Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (Nigel Willson)
3. 12:46 AM - Re: YAK 52 Instruction (Nigel Willson)
4. 05:27 AM - Re: YAK 52 Instruction (Hans Oortman)
5. 05:50 AM - Re: YAK 52 Instruction (ssssskippy)
6. 06:53 AM - Re: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
7. 06:54 AM - Re: Removing Gills (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
8. 07:12 AM - Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (PaulW)
9. 07:39 AM - Re: Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52 (William Geipel)
10. 07:42 AM - Re: Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (=?utf-8?Q?H=C3=A5vard_Dale?=)
11. 07:46 AM - Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (barryhancock)
12. 07:54 AM - Re: Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (A. Dennis Savarese)
13. 07:59 AM - Re: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it (Roger Kemp)
14. 08:00 AM - Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (barryhancock)
15. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (=?utf-8?Q?H=C3=A5vard_Dale?=)
16. 08:37 AM - Re: Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 (Byron Fox)
17. 08:42 AM - Re: Removing Gills (Roger Kemp)
18. 10:15 AM - Re: Removing Gills (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
19. 11:43 AM - Re: Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52 (Richard Goode)
20. 01:28 PM - Re: YAK 52 Instruction (John Nolan)
21. 02:03 PM - Re: YAK 52 Instruction (Richard Hess)
22. 02:04 PM - Re: YAK 52 Instruction (Nigel Willson)
23. 10:27 PM - Re: Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52 (Royden Heays)
Message 1
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| Subject: | YAK 52 Instruction |
Dear YAK 52 Owners and Operators
I would be grateful of some information concerning YAK 52 Pilot Training
UK/Europe or US. I would like to attend a YAK 52 Conversion and receive some
aerobatic training. I have searched on the web and only found Skytrace in the
UK. They have not replied to my emails are they still in business?
I would need to conduct the training on the school aircraft I have not purchased
one yet. I am looking to get the required training in place first. At the moment
I have plans to travel to the states next year so could receive training
over there.
Again I would be very grateful of any information.
Best Regards
Robert Harper
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433568#433568
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| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
Flat spin recovery for Yak52 requires the stick to be FULLY into the corner (FULL
forward, FULL in spin aileron, and FULL opposite rudder).
The problem is that even with those FULL anti-spin controls applied, the 52 will
continue to spin for a further 5 or 6 turns before the recovery suddenly takes
effect (and in those 5 or 6 turns the danger is that people will think the
recovery action is not working and release the controls to start again).
Once they take effect, swift action required to centralise the controls else you
go inverted spinning the other way!
Training is required.
Regards,
Nigel Willson
Flying Instructor/Examiner and Display Pilot
_________________________________________________
email: nigel@yakdisplay.com
mobile: (+44) 7809 116676
web:http://yakdisplay.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Geard
Sent: 13 November 2014 06:56
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52
Hi everyone. This is a very important topic, and deserves as much discussion as
possible.
My Yak55m doesn't appear to auto rotate and will stop any type of spin with opposite
rudder and central/forward stick.
In my limited time in Yak52's I have avoided flat spins due to various reports
I have read. Aft CofG is not the 52's friend.
My understanding of FLAT spin recovery is.... "Into spin aileron" acts as a secondary
rudder, by "more stalling the least stalled wing" & "less stalling the
most stalled wing" hense reducing the yaw rate by altering the drag on the wings.
The down going aileron also goes into high pressure where as the upgoing aileron
goes into low pressure, the result is also reduced yaw rate.
Anyone want to expand on those concepts. Understanding what is happening is a good
place to start for us all :-) Cheers Steve.
--------
SteveO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433563#433563
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| Subject: | YAK 52 Instruction |
Contact me off list if you like....
Regards,
Nigel Willson
Flying Instructor/Examiner and Display Pilot
_________________________________________________
email: nigel@yakdisplay.com
mobile: (+44) 7809 116676
web:http://yakdisplay.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob737998
Sent: 13 November 2014 08:23
Subject: Yak-List: YAK 52 Instruction
--> <robertjamesharper@gmail.com>
Dear YAK 52 Owners and Operators
I would be grateful of some information concerning YAK 52 Pilot Training
UK/Europe or US. I would like to attend a YAK 52 Conversion and receive some
aerobatic training. I have searched on the web and only found Skytrace in the
UK. They have not replied to my emails are they still in business?
I would need to conduct the training on the school aircraft I have not purchased
one yet. I am looking to get the required training in place first. At the moment
I have plans to travel to the states next year so could receive training
over there.
Again I would be very grateful of any information.
Best Regards
Robert Harper
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433568#433568
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: YAK 52 Instruction |
Rob,
I'd go for Genna(Skytrace). He is still in business but in his spare time.
I have had numorous flights/events with him and he is really "Mister Yak52".
Done flat spin training with him as well and have to say it's a bit scary
the first time but after 25 spins it's fun....
Good luck and fly safe!
Hans Oortman
PH-YAK
Op 13-11-14 09:22, Rob737998 <robertjamesharper@gmail.com> schreef:
>
> Dear YAK 52 Owners and Operators
> I would be grateful of some information concerning YAK 52 Pilot
> Training UK/Europe or US. I would like to attend a YAK 52 Conversion and
> receive some aerobatic training. I have searched on the web and only found
> Skytrace in the UK. They have not replied to my emails are they still in
> business?
>
> I would need to conduct the training on the school aircraft I have not
> purchased one yet. I am looking to get the required training in place first.
> At the moment I have plans to travel to the states next year so could receive
> training over there.
>
> Again I would be very grateful of any information.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Robert Harper
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433568#433568
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: YAK 52 Instruction |
Hi
You can also have this learning in Lithuania!
Contact the Kauno Aeroclubo
Around 300 per hour instructor included!
Nice flights
Olivier
> Le 13 nov. 2014 14:24, Hans Oortman <pa3arw@ziggo.nl> a crit :
>
>
> Rob,
>
> I'd go for Genna(Skytrace). He is still in business but in his spare time.
> I have had numorous flights/events with him and he is really "Mister Yak52".
> Done flat spin training with him as well and have to say it's a bit scary
> the first time but after 25 spins it's fun....
>
> Good luck and fly safe!
>
> Hans Oortman
> PH-YAK
>
>
> Op 13-11-14 09:22, Rob737998 <robertjamesharper@gmail.com> schreef:
>
>>
>> Dear YAK 52 Owners and Operators
>> I would be grateful of some information concerning YAK 52 Pilot
>> Training UK/Europe or US. I would like to attend a YAK 52 Conversion and
>> receive some aerobatic training. I have searched on the web and only found
>> Skytrace in the UK. They have not replied to my emails are they still in
>> business?
>>
>> I would need to conduct the training on the school aircraft I have not
>> purchased one yet. I am looking to get the required training in place first.
>> At the moment I have plans to travel to the states next year so could receive
>> training over there.
>>
>> Again I would be very grateful of any information.
>>
>> Best Regards
>>
>> Robert Harper
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433568#433568
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
I understand that Doc.
However, the western made check valves and pressure relief valves are of a much
higher quality make no mistake. Having the Coy's rebuild your valves is also
cheaper than purchasing them from Doug, and they do a darn fine job. That
said, all of the ones I am talking about are stainless steel, corrosion proof
and will outlast most everything out there. Just commenting that you have to
pay a lot to get that kind of quality it seems. The other PITA issue is building
adapters to go to the original air lines.
Size is also an issue. As I mentioned, I was very surprised to see different sizes
of check valves (also with different thread sizes) used in two different
50's. The 1974 had a small set, the 1985 had a larger set, and neither was the
same as what was used on the 52 which had an ever bigger size!
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
Doug's supplies are no where that expensive for the whole H.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 12, 2014, at 10:06 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> I'd actually like to rebuild the whole arrangement with western made check valves,
filter, and pop-off valve. Saw it done on a Sukhoi, looked up the pressure
relief valve and it retailed for $800. Wow.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:50 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
>
>
> On the YAK 50, the Chinese check valves work also. Did not know about Goerge
rebuilding the check valves until after I had replaced mine with brand new ones
Doug Sapp.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:45 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>>
>> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>> After a day or two of not flying... open the snot valve. If you hear a loud
hiss of air, you more than likely have air leaking through the check valves
and back into the compressor line.
>>
>> Next, use external air to fill both tanks. Then (one at a time) remove the
lines coming into the check valve assembly (described in a previous email) that
are coming from the engine compressor to the check valve assembly. If you
want, you can take a balloon and put it over the fitting of the check valve you
just removed the line from coming from the engine, to snot valve, to check
valve assembly. Tie it on there tight and leave it for a few hours and see if
it blows up.
>>
>> If nothing happens, you can go back to the external fill port and put soapy
water there... look for air coming out the external fill port. This checks THAT
check valve. You could also take off the fitting going to the external fill
port at the check valve assembly and use the balloon trick again.
>>
>> Realize if you have air coming out of EITHER of these, you also will a check
valve bad going to one of the two AIR tanks.
>>
>> If you decide you have a check valve leaking, send all four to George Coy and
his son, and they will rebuild them for you.
>>
>>
>> That's a little bit of a start to get you going anyway.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of yakxx21
>> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:06 AM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
>>
>>
>> why would temperature effect it ?....looking at the diagram it seems
>> it can only go back to the charging point (which its not) or leak
>> around the tank itself (cant see any soapy leaks) or lose something
>> through the check valve going to engine driven compressor and Im not
>> sure how to check that
>>
>> also im not sure if the SNOT valve would affect it if left open----or if not
sealing correctly....
>>
>> finally I suppose I could change the pressure release rubber again....
>>
>> frustrating
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433323#433323
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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What is a rigging problem? The gills jamming shut? Yes, you're right, it sure
can be. That and a whole list of other things can also cause them to jam, in
ANY position.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
That is a rigging problem. Measure the length of threads showing on the threaded
rod swageged onto the control cable that connects to the lever that opens and
closes the louvers. There is a jam nut at the base of the bullet shaped connector
threaded onto the end of the control cable. Measure the length of threads
from the jam nut to the none threaded length of the shaft. Coming out at a right
angle is shaft with a ball at one end that fits in that bullet allowing it
to articulate with the control cable. The other end of the shaft has a molded
~5 mm nut on it that flows into a threaded shaft that is screwed into that lever
I referred to that is in the 0530 position that opens and closes the vanes
on their access in the ring.
Now saying all of that, as I learned the hard way, you do not have to loosen the
bullet on the control cable. Just loosen that threaded on shaft from the louver
lever. If memory serves there is also a 5 mm nut on the bolt that threads
through the louver lever.
Fun an games
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 12, 2014, at 10:04 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Not to mention, putting it all back together and then having it jam closed in
flight because of a small error when reassembling the darn thing, thus frying
the engine.
>
> On the chance of awakening a sleeping giant, I will say that on my 50, the gills
HAVE been removed. Permanently. Instead of painted red gill slats, you see
a nice big round motor.
>
> That said, I do not fly in sub-freezing temperatures, and I also had to fabricate
4 support rods that mount from the engine to the gill ring to regain the
necessary support the gill arrangement normally provides.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:44 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
>
>
> Taking those bolts loose will not let you remove you oil tube ( the snout you
refer to). Look at shaft of you oil tube. You will see a nut at the base of the
polished tip that pushes oil into and out of the piston in the prop hub. Take
the appropriate Mexican Speed wrench (adjustable) to loosen it. Careful, there
is washer at the base. Put a clean rag in you prop shaft to keep FOD out.
> You will have to remove all of those slotted safety wire screws around the ring
that supported the defection plate at the base of the hub that you have already
removed.
> At the 0530 position you will see two ~8 mm bolts that on the back side attaches
to a lever that opens and closes you gills. That all has to come off.
> Then if you look around the base of louvers there are ? 11 mm bolts the bolt
the ring to the nose case. Slowly loosen them all together so you are going loosen
one a little, move to the next one, then the next one until you have all
the walked around the ring. That is because over the top of the bolts is a slot
in the perpendicular ring that prevents the bolts from backing completely out
if they loosened in flight.
> You also have to take those cooling trumpets off. You will have to take the outer
ring braces loose that attach the ring to the nine cylinders. Do not lose
those spacers at the base of those L brackets that mounts them to the stud on
the cylinders. Impossible to find replacements.
> Now that all of that is disconnected you can remove the louvers from the prop
hub. Look at your prop hub. You will see two flat sides on an otherwise round
flange. You will basically lift up the base ring behind the flange over one of
those flat sides in the flange. You then rotate the ring around the flange like
you would remove a lid from a gallon of paint if you intended to use the lide
again that is. Yes I am talking about warping the base ring to slide it off
the prop flange.
> Sure you still want to do this?
> Have fun.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:46 AM, ronpenrose <rpenrose@kc.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all. I am a relatively new Yak owner since July. I am in the process of dismantling
a few things for painting and having a problem figuring out how to
remove the gills framework. I have removed the prop and hub. I am thinking the
snout and the cast piece in front of gills needs to come off but cannot figure
out how to remove. I did remove the four bolts at the base of the snout but
it will not budge and cautious of using too much persuasion.
>>
>> I have attached pic.
>>
>> Any hints to going the last mile on this greatly appreciated.
>>
>> --------
>> Ron Penrose
>> YAK-52 N352BW
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433318#433318
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20141110_074357_282.jpg
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
>
> Even more important is learning the situations that get you into one in the first
place.
> Happy to provide the training if I'm closer to anyone on the list (UK)
> (We start at 10,000 feet, and chutes are a must!)
>
What would you say are these situations?
I am still a beginner in aero's and like to know more.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433582#433582
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52 |
how do they know you simply replaced bolts?
On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:04 AM, Steve Geard <stevegeard@xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>
> Hey up. I'm looking to ream out and replace the wing attachment bolts on my
Yak55m with some oversized bolts +0.5mm. I must be a bit hard on the old dear
as she's developed a bit of play on both sides.
> The NZ CAA requires the usual screeds of paperwork.
> Anyone know of any oversize bolts that come with paperwork. Or any design work
thats been documented. Has anyone got any info on Yak52's having larger bolts
installed?
> Cheers Steve :D
>
> --------
> SteveO
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433564#433564
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
Flat spin is just fun as long as you Get good training. Mishandling a Hammerhead
could put you in a flat spin.
Recovery no problem as long as you do what you should and wait:-) And offcourse
have the height needed.
We train it from 6000 feet and make the entry from Hammerhead, spin to 5000 feet
and recovery hopefully before 4000 feet. Mishandle the recovery and you find
yourself in an inverted spin. No problem as long as you aware that you are inverted,
look out and you see.
Get some good training and keep safe altitude save your but!!
BR
Havard
Yaknorway
Sendt fra min iPhone 4S
> Den 13. nov. 2014 kl. 16:11 skrev "PaulW" <paul@budcyber.com>:
>
>
>
>>
>> Even more important is learning the situations that get you into one in the
first place.
>> Happy to provide the training if I'm closer to anyone on the list (UK)
>> (We start at 10,000 feet, and chutes are a must!)
>
>
> What would you say are these situations?
> I am still a beginner in aero's and like to know more.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433582#433582
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
I just want for everyone to be really clear on this. Some of us are old timers
on this list but there are many new to the list, warbird and aerobatic flying,
etc.
First, NEVER do anything in an airplane without receiving instruction from a well
qualified instructor. Not all instructors are created equal. Particularly
when it comes to spins, make sure your IP is very experienced. As Richard mentions
in my original post, the -52 requires specific and very unorthodox techniques.
Remember the doctor who graduates at the bottom of his class is still
called... "doctor."
Second, when we talk about "forward stick" this, if done wrong or held too long,
is also a recipe for a spin transition from upright to inverted. There are
several stories that don't end well when this happens. Everyone would do well
to at least see what that looks like with a well qualified instructor. It is
only fun if you are a sicko like me, but to be able to identify what is going
on and how to recover are paramount (see link to article below).
Third, as most of you have deduced by now the -52 has VERY different recovery techniques
from standard PARE (or NASA standard) techniques. That being said,
the plane is totally reliable when proper techniques are used. The -50 is very
different from the -52 (much more "normal" spin characteristics).
Fourth, spins come in all colors. Upright, inverted, accelerated, flat, cross-over,
etc. They all feel and look different. Wrong control inputs, out of sequence,
or bad timing can result in one becoming another.
Fifth, see my "First" comment. ;)
Here is a short article on spins from AOPA that is a quick and interesting read.
I also have trained with Bill Finigan and found his technique for "out of control'
(i.e. the pilot does not know what the plane is doing or his attempts
to fix it are not working) to be stone cold simple and reliable.
http://www.aopa.org/News-and-Video/All-News/2010/June/3/Spin-myths
Fly safely!
Barry
--------
Barry Hancock
Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
www.worldwidewarbirds.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433585#433585
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
I found this in my archives......From 2002, "SPINS UNSPUN", a terrific
article published in the Warbird Flyer which was the quarterly
newsletter of the Yak Pilots Association, the successor to the Yak
Pilots Club and predecessor to the Redstar Pilots Association.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 11/13/2014 9:44 AM, barryhancock wrote:
>
> I just want for everyone to be really clear on this. Some of us are old timers
on this list but there are many new to the list, warbird and aerobatic flying,
etc.
>
> First, NEVER do anything in an airplane without receiving instruction from a
well qualified instructor. Not all instructors are created equal. Particularly
when it comes to spins, make sure your IP is very experienced. As Richard
mentions in my original post, the -52 requires specific and very unorthodox techniques.
Remember the doctor who graduates at the bottom of his class is still
called... "doctor."
>
> Second, when we talk about "forward stick" this, if done wrong or held too long,
is also a recipe for a spin transition from upright to inverted. There are
several stories that don't end well when this happens. Everyone would do well
to at least see what that looks like with a well qualified instructor. It
is only fun if you are a sicko like me, but to be able to identify what is going
on and how to recover are paramount (see link to article below).
>
> Third, as most of you have deduced by now the -52 has VERY different recovery
techniques from standard PARE (or NASA standard) techniques. That being said,
the plane is totally reliable when proper techniques are used. The -50 is very
different from the -52 (much more "normal" spin characteristics).
>
> Fourth, spins come in all colors. Upright, inverted, accelerated, flat, cross-over,
etc. They all feel and look different. Wrong control inputs, out of
sequence, or bad timing can result in one becoming another.
>
> Fifth, see my "First" comment. ;)
>
> Here is a short article on spins from AOPA that is a quick and interesting read.
I also have trained with Bill Finigan and found his technique for "out of
control' (i.e. the pilot does not know what the plane is doing or his attempts
to fix it are not working) to be stone cold simple and reliable.
>
> http://www.aopa.org/News-and-Video/All-News/2010/June/3/Spin-myths
>
> Fly safely!
>
> Barry
>
> --------
> Barry Hancock
> Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
> www.worldwidewarbirds.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433585#433585
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
Agree on size differences as well as SS fitting are more desirable. Would commit
to them if I had not already done them.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 13, 2014, at 8:51 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
> I understand that Doc.
>
> However, the western made check valves and pressure relief valves are of a much
higher quality make no mistake. Having the Coy's rebuild your valves is also
cheaper than purchasing them from Doug, and they do a darn fine job. That
said, all of the ones I am talking about are stainless steel, corrosion proof
and will outlast most everything out there. Just commenting that you have to
pay a lot to get that kind of quality it seems. The other PITA issue is building
adapters to go to the original air lines.
>
> Size is also an issue. As I mentioned, I was very surprised to see different
sizes of check valves (also with different thread sizes) used in two different
50's. The 1974 had a small set, the 1985 had a larger set, and neither was
the same as what was used on the 52 which had an ever bigger size!
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 5:29 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
>
>
> Doug's supplies are no where that expensive for the whole H.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 12, 2014, at 10:06 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>>
>> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>> I'd actually like to rebuild the whole arrangement with western made check valves,
filter, and pop-off valve. Saw it done on a Sukhoi, looked up the pressure
relief valve and it retailed for $800. Wow.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:50 PM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
>>
>>
>> On the YAK 50, the Chinese check valves work also. Did not know about Goerge
rebuilding the check valves until after I had replaced mine with brand new ones
Doug Sapp.
>> Doc
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:45 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>>>
>>> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>>
>>> After a day or two of not flying... open the snot valve. If you hear a loud
hiss of air, you more than likely have air leaking through the check valves
and back into the compressor line.
>>>
>>> Next, use external air to fill both tanks. Then (one at a time) remove the
lines coming into the check valve assembly (described in a previous email) that
are coming from the engine compressor to the check valve assembly. If you
want, you can take a balloon and put it over the fitting of the check valve
you just removed the line from coming from the engine, to snot valve, to check
valve assembly. Tie it on there tight and leave it for a few hours and see
if it blows up.
>>>
>>> If nothing happens, you can go back to the external fill port and put soapy
water there... look for air coming out the external fill port. This checks THAT
check valve. You could also take off the fitting going to the external fill
port at the check valve assembly and use the balloon trick again.
>>>
>>> Realize if you have air coming out of EITHER of these, you also will a check
valve bad going to one of the two AIR tanks.
>>>
>>> If you decide you have a check valve leaking, send all four to George Coy and
his son, and they will rebuild them for you.
>>>
>>>
>>> That's a little bit of a start to get you going anyway.
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of yakxx21
>>> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:06 AM
>>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it
>>>
>>>
>>> why would temperature effect it ?....looking at the diagram it seems
>>> it can only go back to the charging point (which its not) or leak
>>> around the tank itself (cant see any soapy leaks) or lose something
>>> through the check valve going to engine driven compressor and Im not
>>> sure how to check that
>>>
>>> also im not sure if the SNOT valve would affect it if left open----or if not
sealing correctly....
>>>
>>> finally I suppose I could change the pressure release rubber again....
>>>
>>> frustrating
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433323#433323
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
PaulW wrote:
>
> >
> > Even more important is learning the situations that get you into one in the
first place.
> > Happy to provide the training if I'm closer to anyone on the list (UK)
> > (We start at 10,000 feet, and chutes are a must!)
> >
>
>
> What would you say are these situations?
> I am still a beginner in aero's and like to know more.
I think your comment is exactly the point we are trying to make. Before you are
a beginning aerobatic pilot, you need to be well versed in spins. Any aerobatic
instructor/school worth your time will REQUIRE you to go through spin training
before you attempt any aerobatics.
Self taught or "I read that in a book" approaches are foolhardy unless you have
first mastered all spin recoveries.
As for what situations can get you into a spin, virtually any maneuver that introduces
slow speed and requires rudder input to keep the ball in the center (yes,
that's a pretty broad category of maneuvers) could potentially put you into
a spin. We have lost people in our community on spins in the pattern! It happens,
gang.
Any maneuver that takes you into the vertical (loop, Cuban, hammerhead, Immelmann,
Split S, etc.) is particularly vulnerable to a spin. Whether it is upright
or inverted depends on several factors. Which factors are a really good idea
to become very familiar with before attempting these maneuvers.
Or, you can take the "what could possibly go wrong approach" and realize the answer
to that question as you are hopelessly caught in a spin as the ground rushes
at you at over 5000 fpm.
Barry
--------
Barry Hancock
Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
www.worldwidewarbirds.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433589#433589
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
Good points Barry,
Offcourse everybody new with all kind of planes or different kind of flying should
Get qualified training.
I also recomand all that flying the Yak 52 to Get qualified training. Take this
plane into aerobatic flying and Flatspin it without training by an qualified
instructor most likely put you on a sad statistic.
On the other hand, dont be affraid for it and Get scared of all reports out there,
just use them as they are ment to. Recomandation to Get good training before
you hit the tire and light the fire for a solo flight. The Yak 52 is a dam
good and safe plane, if its handled correct as every plane should be.
Happy flying:-)
BR
Havard
Yaknorway
Sendt fra min iPhone 4S
> Den 13. nov. 2014 kl. 16:44 skrev "barryhancock" <bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com>:
>
>
> I just want for everyone to be really clear on this. Some of us are old timers
on this list but there are many new to the list, warbird and aerobatic flying,
etc.
>
> First, NEVER do anything in an airplane without receiving instruction from a
well qualified instructor. Not all instructors are created equal. Particularly
when it comes to spins, make sure your IP is very experienced. As Richard
mentions in my original post, the -52 requires specific and very unorthodox techniques.
Remember the doctor who graduates at the bottom of his class is still
called... "doctor."
>
> Second, when we talk about "forward stick" this, if done wrong or held too long,
is also a recipe for a spin transition from upright to inverted. There are
several stories that don't end well when this happens. Everyone would do well
to at least see what that looks like with a well qualified instructor. It
is only fun if you are a sicko like me, but to be able to identify what is going
on and how to recover are paramount (see link to article below).
>
> Third, as most of you have deduced by now the -52 has VERY different recovery
techniques from standard PARE (or NASA standard) techniques. That being said,
the plane is totally reliable when proper techniques are used. The -50 is very
different from the -52 (much more "normal" spin characteristics).
>
> Fourth, spins come in all colors. Upright, inverted, accelerated, flat, cross-over,
etc. They all feel and look different. Wrong control inputs, out of
sequence, or bad timing can result in one becoming another.
>
> Fifth, see my "First" comment. ;)
>
> Here is a short article on spins from AOPA that is a quick and interesting read.
I also have trained with Bill Finigan and found his technique for "out of
control' (i.e. the pilot does not know what the plane is doing or his attempts
to fix it are not working) to be stone cold simple and reliable.
>
> http://www.aopa.org/News-and-Video/All-News/2010/June/3/Spin-myths
>
> Fly safely!
>
> Barry
>
> --------
> Barry Hancock
> Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
> www.worldwidewarbirds.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433585#433585
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spins, particularly in a Yak-52 |
Well written, Barry.
Years ago when I was considering buying a Yak 52, I had the good fortune to spend
three days with Gennady Elfimov in Bobbington, UK. It seemed for all but about
an hour we spun his Yak 52 over, over and over again. And those were just
normal and flat spins. We never got to flat inverted spins. Only when he was
convinced that I could recover from a spin, he let me run around the "circuit."
He's tough guy.
I'm also convinced that every prospective Yak 52 owner should find a Gennady or
Sergey Boriak (sp?). Where are they both living, now? Anybody know?
Blitz Fox
P.S. Dave King and Hal Morley brow beat me into buying a CJ - a plane that can
be forced into a spin. :0)
> On Nov 13, 2014, at 7:44 AM, barryhancock <bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com> wrote:
>
>
> I just want for everyone to be really clear on this. Some of us are old timers
on this list but there are many new to the list, warbird and aerobatic flying,
etc.
>
> First, NEVER do anything in an airplane without receiving instruction from a
well qualified instructor. Not all instructors are created equal. Particularly
when it comes to spins, make sure your IP is very experienced. As Richard
mentions in my original post, the -52 requires specific and very unorthodox techniques.
Remember the doctor who graduates at the bottom of his class is still
called... "doctor."
>
> Second, when we talk about "forward stick" this, if done wrong or held too long,
is also a recipe for a spin transition from upright to inverted. There are
several stories that don't end well when this happens. Everyone would do well
to at least see what that looks like with a well qualified instructor. It
is only fun if you are a sicko like me, but to be able to identify what is going
on and how to recover are paramount (see link to article below).
>
> Third, as most of you have deduced by now the -52 has VERY different recovery
techniques from standard PARE (or NASA standard) techniques. That being said,
the plane is totally reliable when proper techniques are used. The -50 is very
different from the -52 (much more "normal" spin characteristics).
>
> Fourth, spins come in all colors. Upright, inverted, accelerated, flat, cross-over,
etc. They all feel and look different. Wrong control inputs, out of
sequence, or bad timing can result in one becoming another.
>
> Fifth, see my "First" comment. ;)
>
> Here is a short article on spins from AOPA that is a quick and interesting read.
I also have trained with Bill Finigan and found his technique for "out of
control' (i.e. the pilot does not know what the plane is doing or his attempts
to fix it are not working) to be stone cold simple and reliable.
>
> http://www.aopa.org/News-and-Video/All-News/2010/June/3/Spin-myths
>
> Fly safely!
>
> Barry
>
> --------
> Barry Hancock
> Worldwide Warbirds, Inc.
> www.worldwidewarbirds.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433585#433585
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Removing Gills |
You are correct. There are a whole list of reasons why the the louvers will not
fully open or close after re instillation. Assuming all of the vanes have that
slotted screw through them at the inner ring they will move correctly. Assuming
you did not screw with the three roller bearings on the inner ring ( the same
inner ring that those slotted safety wired vane screws are screwed into) the
ring will move freely. Assuming those roller bearing are not rusted and pitted
the ring will move freely otherwise. Next comes making sure you do not warp
the outer ring when you re-install the braces on the cylinder studs. Then it
comes to cowling rigging. If the cowling does not seat down on the outer ring
freely that can cause the them to bind also. That adjustment is made via the
top canopy mounting rods.
Now have them slam shut? Either there was a failure to reconnect them at the Louver
lever on the inner ring. Mechanical failure of the cable ( swageged studs,
cockpit lever or louver attachment points) granted you could have missed every
slot on the lever slot on the vanes when you put the slotted screws back in
but an intelligent person should catch that one.
Now in the 52 shutters slamming shut probably was because the carbon unit on the
cockpit end of the shutter control lever failed to set the tension control allowing
it to drift closed. Same for the 50. Only there it is a knurled knob on
the side of the console that controls the tension on the levers ( cowl levers
and the oil cooler door). In either of those cases, it was pilot disconnect
that allowed the shutters to close and has nothing to do with "rigging").
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 13, 2014, at 8:53 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
>
> What is a rigging problem? The gills jamming shut? Yes, you're right, it sure
can be. That and a whole list of other things can also cause them to jam,
in ANY position.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:40 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
>
>
> That is a rigging problem. Measure the length of threads showing on the threaded
rod swageged onto the control cable that connects to the lever that opens
and closes the louvers. There is a jam nut at the base of the bullet shaped connector
threaded onto the end of the control cable. Measure the length of threads
from the jam nut to the none threaded length of the shaft. Coming out at a
right angle is shaft with a ball at one end that fits in that bullet allowing
it to articulate with the control cable. The other end of the shaft has a molded
~5 mm nut on it that flows into a threaded shaft that is screwed into that
lever I referred to that is in the 0530 position that opens and closes the vanes
on their access in the ring.
> Now saying all of that, as I learned the hard way, you do not have to loosen
the bullet on the control cable. Just loosen that threaded on shaft from the louver
lever. If memory serves there is also a 5 mm nut on the bolt that threads
through the louver lever.
> Fun an games
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 12, 2014, at 10:04 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>>
>> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>> Not to mention, putting it all back together and then having it jam closed in
flight because of a small error when reassembling the darn thing, thus frying
the engine.
>>
>> On the chance of awakening a sleeping giant, I will say that on my 50, the gills
HAVE been removed. Permanently. Instead of painted red gill slats, you
see a nice big round motor.
>>
>> That said, I do not fly in sub-freezing temperatures, and I also had to fabricate
4 support rods that mount from the engine to the gill ring to regain the
necessary support the gill arrangement normally provides.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:44 PM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
>>
>>
>> Taking those bolts loose will not let you remove you oil tube ( the snout you
refer to). Look at shaft of you oil tube. You will see a nut at the base of
the polished tip that pushes oil into and out of the piston in the prop hub. Take
the appropriate Mexican Speed wrench (adjustable) to loosen it. Careful,
there is washer at the base. Put a clean rag in you prop shaft to keep FOD out.
>> You will have to remove all of those slotted safety wire screws around the ring
that supported the defection plate at the base of the hub that you have already
removed.
>> At the 0530 position you will see two ~8 mm bolts that on the back side attaches
to a lever that opens and closes you gills. That all has to come off.
>> Then if you look around the base of louvers there are ? 11 mm bolts the bolt
the ring to the nose case. Slowly loosen them all together so you are going loosen
one a little, move to the next one, then the next one until you have all
the walked around the ring. That is because over the top of the bolts is a slot
in the perpendicular ring that prevents the bolts from backing completely
out if they loosened in flight.
>> You also have to take those cooling trumpets off. You will have to take the
outer ring braces loose that attach the ring to the nine cylinders. Do not lose
those spacers at the base of those L brackets that mounts them to the stud on
the cylinders. Impossible to find replacements.
>> Now that all of that is disconnected you can remove the louvers from the prop
hub. Look at your prop hub. You will see two flat sides on an otherwise round
flange. You will basically lift up the base ring behind the flange over one
of those flat sides in the flange. You then rotate the ring around the flange
like you would remove a lid from a gallon of paint if you intended to use the
lide again that is. Yes I am talking about warping the base ring to slide it off
the prop flange.
>> Sure you still want to do this?
>> Have fun.
>> Doc
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:46 AM, ronpenrose <rpenrose@kc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi all. I am a relatively new Yak owner since July. I am in the process of
dismantling a few things for painting and having a problem figuring out how to
remove the gills framework. I have removed the prop and hub. I am thinking the
snout and the cast piece in front of gills needs to come off but cannot figure
out how to remove. I did remove the four bolts at the base of the snout but
it will not budge and cautious of using too much persuasion.
>>>
>>> I have attached pic.
>>>
>>> Any hints to going the last mile on this greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Ron Penrose
>>> YAK-52 N352BW
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433318#433318
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Attachments:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20141110_074357_282.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
Doc, I used the word "rigging" .... which apparently means sometime different to
me than it does to you. In any case, it is NBD... No Big Deal.
Several M-14P engines that I know of have been ruined by being over-temped with
shutters that were stuck closed. Several.
That was the point I was trying to make, not how to adjust the vanes, take them
in or out, whatever. There is proven potential to ruin your engine if those
vanes manage to get closed, and fail "in such a fashion" that they cannot be
opened again. It's happened several times that I know of, and will probably happen
again.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
You are correct. There are a whole list of reasons why the the louvers will not
fully open or close after re instillation. Assuming all of the vanes have that
slotted screw through them at the inner ring they will move correctly. Assuming
you did not screw with the three roller bearings on the inner ring ( the same
inner ring that those slotted safety wired vane screws are screwed into) the
ring will move freely. Assuming those roller bearing are not rusted and pitted
the ring will move freely otherwise. Next comes making sure you do not warp
the outer ring when you re-install the braces on the cylinder studs. Then it
comes to cowling rigging. If the cowling does not seat down on the outer ring
freely that can cause the them to bind also. That adjustment is made via the
top canopy mounting rods.
Now have them slam shut? Either there was a failure to reconnect them at the Louver
lever on the inner ring. Mechanical failure of the cable ( swageged studs,
cockpit lever or louver attachment points) granted you could have missed every
slot on the lever slot on the vanes when you put the slotted screws back in
but an intelligent person should catch that one.
Now in the 52 shutters slamming shut probably was because the carbon unit on the
cockpit end of the shutter control lever failed to set the tension control allowing
it to drift closed. Same for the 50. Only there it is a knurled knob on
the side of the console that controls the tension on the levers ( cowl levers
and the oil cooler door). In either of those cases, it was pilot disconnect
that allowed the shutters to close and has nothing to do with "rigging").
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 13, 2014, at 8:53 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> What is a rigging problem? The gills jamming shut? Yes, you're right, it sure
can be. That and a whole list of other things can also cause them to jam,
in ANY position.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:40 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
>
>
> That is a rigging problem. Measure the length of threads showing on the threaded
rod swageged onto the control cable that connects to the lever that opens
and closes the louvers. There is a jam nut at the base of the bullet shaped connector
threaded onto the end of the control cable. Measure the length of threads
from the jam nut to the none threaded length of the shaft. Coming out at a
right angle is shaft with a ball at one end that fits in that bullet allowing
it to articulate with the control cable. The other end of the shaft has a molded
~5 mm nut on it that flows into a threaded shaft that is screwed into that
lever I referred to that is in the 0530 position that opens and closes the vanes
on their access in the ring.
> Now saying all of that, as I learned the hard way, you do not have to loosen
the bullet on the control cable. Just loosen that threaded on shaft from the louver
lever. If memory serves there is also a 5 mm nut on the bolt that threads
through the louver lever.
> Fun an games
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 12, 2014, at 10:04 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>>
>> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>> Not to mention, putting it all back together and then having it jam closed in
flight because of a small error when reassembling the darn thing, thus frying
the engine.
>>
>> On the chance of awakening a sleeping giant, I will say that on my 50, the gills
HAVE been removed. Permanently. Instead of painted red gill slats, you
see a nice big round motor.
>>
>> That said, I do not fly in sub-freezing temperatures, and I also had to fabricate
4 support rods that mount from the engine to the gill ring to regain the
necessary support the gill arrangement normally provides.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:44 PM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Removing Gills
>>
>>
>> Taking those bolts loose will not let you remove you oil tube ( the snout you
refer to). Look at shaft of you oil tube. You will see a nut at the base of
the polished tip that pushes oil into and out of the piston in the prop hub. Take
the appropriate Mexican Speed wrench (adjustable) to loosen it. Careful,
there is washer at the base. Put a clean rag in you prop shaft to keep FOD out.
>> You will have to remove all of those slotted safety wire screws around the ring
that supported the defection plate at the base of the hub that you have already
removed.
>> At the 0530 position you will see two ~8 mm bolts that on the back side attaches
to a lever that opens and closes you gills. That all has to come off.
>> Then if you look around the base of louvers there are ? 11 mm bolts the bolt
the ring to the nose case. Slowly loosen them all together so you are going loosen
one a little, move to the next one, then the next one until you have all
the walked around the ring. That is because over the top of the bolts is a slot
in the perpendicular ring that prevents the bolts from backing completely
out if they loosened in flight.
>> You also have to take those cooling trumpets off. You will have to take the
outer ring braces loose that attach the ring to the nine cylinders. Do not lose
those spacers at the base of those L brackets that mounts them to the stud on
the cylinders. Impossible to find replacements.
>> Now that all of that is disconnected you can remove the louvers from the prop
hub. Look at your prop hub. You will see two flat sides on an otherwise round
flange. You will basically lift up the base ring behind the flange over one
of those flat sides in the flange. You then rotate the ring around the flange
like you would remove a lid from a gallon of paint if you intended to use the
lide again that is. Yes I am talking about warping the base ring to slide it off
the prop flange.
>> Sure you still want to do this?
>> Have fun.
>> Doc
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:46 AM, ronpenrose <rpenrose@kc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi all. I am a relatively new Yak owner since July. I am in the process of
dismantling a few things for painting and having a problem figuring out how to
remove the gills framework. I have removed the prop and hub. I am thinking the
snout and the cast piece in front of gills needs to come off but cannot figure
out how to remove. I did remove the four bolts at the base of the snout but
it will not budge and cautious of using too much persuasion.
>>>
>>> I have attached pic.
>>>
>>> Any hints to going the last mile on this greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Ron Penrose
>>> YAK-52 N352BW
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433318#433318
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Attachments:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20141110_074357_282.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52 |
It is standard practice on both these Yaks, when there is wear in the wing
mounting bolts/fittings to very slightly ream out the fitting and install
larger bolts.
We can supply such bolts, made to any size, from the correct and
heat-treated material, importantly with an EASA "form one" which is the
highest qualification in Europe for aviation components.
Please contact me off list.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Hereford
HR5 3LW
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Geard
Sent: 13 November 2014 07:05
Subject: Yak-List: Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52
Hey up. I'm looking to ream out and replace the wing attachment bolts on my
Yak55m with some oversized bolts +0.5mm. I must be a bit hard on the old
dear as she's developed a bit of play on both sides.
The NZ CAA requires the usual screeds of paperwork.
Anyone know of any oversize bolts that come with paperwork. Or any design
work thats been documented. Has anyone got any info on Yak52's having larger
bolts installed?
Cheers Steve :D
--------
SteveO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433564#433564
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by
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Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: YAK 52 Instruction |
All,
Great topic.
Can we come up with a list of "Yak 52 spin and acro" instructors by region
and country? I'm looking for one in southeastern USA. I'm in the Atlanta
area.
John Nolan
On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 8:44 AM, ssssskippy <ssssskippy@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> You can also have this learning in Lithuania!
>
> Contact the Kauno Aeroclubo
>
> Around 300=82=AC per hour instructor included!
>
> Nice flights
>
> Olivier
>
>
> > Le 13 nov. 2014 =C3- 14:24, Hans Oortman <pa3arw@ziggo.nl> a =C3=A9cr
it :
> >
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > I'd go for Genna(Skytrace). He is still in business but in his spare
> time.
> > I have had numorous flights/events with him and he is really "Mister
> Yak52".
> > Done flat spin training with him as well and have to say it's a bit sca
ry
> > the first time but after 25 spins it's fun....
> >
> > Good luck and fly safe!
> >
> > Hans Oortman
> > PH-YAK
> >
> >
> > Op 13-11-14 09:22, Rob737998 <robertjamesharper@gmail.com> schreef:
> >
> robertjamesharper@gmail.com>
> >>
> >> Dear YAK 52 Owners and Operators
> >> I would be grateful of some information concerning YAK 52 Pilo
t
> >> Training UK/Europe or US. I would like to attend a YAK 52 Conversion a
nd
> >> receive some aerobatic training. I have searched on the web and only
> found
> >> Skytrace in the UK. They have not replied to my emails are they still
in
> >> business?
> >>
> >> I would need to conduct the training on the school aircraft I have not
> >> purchased one yet. I am looking to get the required training in place
> first.
> >> At the moment I have plans to travel to the states next year so could
> receive
> >> training over there.
> >>
> >> Again I would be very grateful of any information.
> >>
> >> Best Regards
> >>
> >> Robert Harper
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433568#433568
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: YAK 52 Instruction |
John
I live in ATL. Feel free to call me off list.
Richard Hess
C 404-964-4885
> On Nov 13, 2014, at 16:24, John Nolan <johnrobertnolan@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> All,
>
> Great topic.
>
> Can we come up with a list of "Yak 52 spin and acro" instructors by region
and country? I'm looking for one in southeastern USA. I'm in the Atlanta ar
ea.
>
> John Nolan
>
>> On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 8:44 AM, ssssskippy <ssssskippy@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> You can also have this learning in Lithuania!
>>
>> Contact the Kauno Aeroclubo
>>
>> Around 300=82=AC per hour instructor included!
>>
>> Nice flights
>>
>> Olivier
>>
>>
>> > Le 13 nov. 2014 =C3- 14:24, Hans Oortman <pa3arw@ziggo.nl> a =C3=A9cr
it :
>> >
>> >
>> > Rob,
>> >
>> > I'd go for Genna(Skytrace). He is still in business but in his spare ti
me.
>> > I have had numorous flights/events with him and he is really "Mister Ya
k52".
>> > Done flat spin training with him as well and have to say it's a bit sca
ry
>> > the first time but after 25 spins it's fun....
>> >
>> > Good luck and fly safe!
>> >
>> > Hans Oortman
>> > PH-YAK
>> >
>> >
>> > Op 13-11-14 09:22, Rob737998 <robertjamesharper@gmail.com> schreef:
>> >
om>
>> >>
>> >> Dear YAK 52 Owners and Operators
>> >> I would be grateful of some information concerning YAK 52 Pilo
t
>> >> Training UK/Europe or US. I would like to attend a YAK 52 Conversion a
nd
>> >> receive some aerobatic training. I have searched on the web and only f
ound
>> >> Skytrace in the UK. They have not replied to my emails are they still i
n
>> >> business?
>> >>
>> >> I would need to conduct the training on the school aircraft I have not
>> >> purchased one yet. I am looking to get the required training in place f
irst.
>> >> At the moment I have plans to travel to the states next year so could r
eceive
>> >> training over there.
>> >>
>> >> Again I would be very grateful of any information.
>> >>
>> >> Best Regards
>> >>
>> >> Robert Harper
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Read this topic online here:
>> >>
>> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433568#433568
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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>
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| Subject: | YAK 52 Instruction |
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| Subject: | Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52 |
Hi Richard
Exactly the problem with my Yak 55M
The bolts remain circular but the wing and fuselage mounts are slightly oval
requiring reaming to slightly over size.
So two questions for you:
- how to ream?
- once reamed and the O/S bolt diameter determined, what's the delivery on
the O/S diameter bolts?
Regards
Royden
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Goode
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 11:39 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52
--> <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
It is standard practice on both these Yaks, when there is wear in the wing
mounting bolts/fittings to very slightly ream out the fitting and install
larger bolts.
We can supply such bolts, made to any size, from the correct and
heat-treated material, importantly with an EASA "form one" which is the
highest qualification in Europe for aviation components.
Please contact me off list.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Hereford
HR5 3LW
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Geard
Sent: 13 November 2014 07:05
Subject: Yak-List: Wing Bolt replacement Yak 55/ 52
Hey up. I'm looking to ream out and replace the wing attachment bolts on my
Yak55m with some oversized bolts +0.5mm. I must be a bit hard on the old
dear as she's developed a bit of play on both sides.
The NZ CAA requires the usual screeds of paperwork.
Anyone know of any oversize bolts that come with paperwork. Or any design
work thats been documented. Has anyone got any info on Yak52's having larger
bolts installed?
Cheers Steve :D
--------
SteveO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433564#433564
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