Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:16 AM - Re: Stall warning (Chris Ober)
2. 08:26 AM - Re: Air Leak Advice (AcroGimp)
3. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: Air Leak Advice (Roger Kemp)
4. 09:11 AM - Re: Stall warning (Rob Rowe)
5. 10:04 AM - Re: Air Leak Advice (AcroGimp)
6. 10:55 AM - Re: Flying 52 without cowling (Gary G Gabbard)
7. 03:06 PM - Re: Re: Stall warning (bill wade)
8. 03:27 PM - Re: Air Leak Advice (Vic)
9. 04:01 PM - Re: Re: Stall warning (Bill Geipel)
10. 04:55 PM - Re: Re: Stall warning (Chris Ober)
11. 05:20 PM - Re: Re: Stall warning (Bill Geipel)
12. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Air Leak Advice (Roger Kemp)
13. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Air Leak Advice (Roger Kemp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warning |
With the switches on nothing works. It was intermittently working now nothing.
No lights no tones. When pushing the test button, nothing.
Chris Ober
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 11, 2015, at 7:52 AM, Chris Ober <christopherjober@gmail.com> wrote:
I have had intermittent issues with my stall warning on my Yak-52. Have had looked
at by a mechanic and he is baffled. He checked at the wiring thinking it was
a short being that it was intermittent. As if now its not working at all. Has
anyone had a similar issue?
Chris Ober
Sent from my iPhone
Chris Ober
Sent from my iPhone
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
Dennis, in a previous post you suggested the following IF we heard anything from
front handle with main air ON and (I assume) aircraft on gear.
> Assuming you hear the "hiss" at the front gear selector, you will now have to
isolate which actuator is leaking. You will need to remove the
> 90 degree elbow on the bottom end of the actuator (the end closest to
> the chrome shaft) and place your finger over the male 90 degree fitting
> with the main air turned on. If the actuator is leaking, you willfeel
> and hear the air coming out of the 90 degree fitting. If the first one
> you check is ok, move to the other two.
>
> Let me know what you find and I will do my best to help you troubleshoot
> the system.
We were not able to discern any leak at the vent on the front handle with the plane
on jacks, nor did we hear anything obvious when the gear were up and locked
or down. We cycled the gear with both front and rear handles.
If I don't fly tomorrow I can still do this check and report back.
'Gimp
--------
Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440704#440704
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
When was the last time your actuators were rebuilt? If you found gunked up check
valves I'll bet you a dollar to a dozen do units that your shuttle valves are
gunned up and leaking. That also means your chevron seals in the gear sure also
on poor condition. Pull the actuators and rebuild them along with replacing
the shuttle valves. Soon after that you will have to do the break proportionater
valve. Not fun but doable. Don't forget the flap shuttle valves and actuator
too.
The air system is a pain in the ass but very functional once you get all of the
system cleaned up from years of use or misuse.
They are great airplanes. They are a lot of fun. But! They are labor intensive
because they were used hard as military trainers...yeah yeah I know DOOSAF.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 10:25 AM, AcroGimp <jlknolla@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> Dennis, in a previous post you suggested the following IF we heard anything from
front handle with main air ON and (I assume) aircraft on gear.
>
>
>> Assuming you hear the "hiss" at the front gear selector, you will now have to
isolate which actuator is leaking. You will need to remove the
>> 90 degree elbow on the bottom end of the actuator (the end closest to
>> the chrome shaft) and place your finger over the male 90 degree fitting
>> with the main air turned on. If the actuator is leaking, you willfeel
>> and hear the air coming out of the 90 degree fitting. If the first one
>> you check is ok, move to the other two.
>>
>> Let me know what you find and I will do my best to help you troubleshoot
>> the system.
>
>
> We were not able to discern any leak at the vent on the front handle with the
plane on jacks, nor did we hear anything obvious when the gear were up and locked
or down. We cycled the gear with both front and rear handles.
>
> If I don't fly tomorrow I can still do this check and report back.
>
> 'Gimp
>
> --------
> Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
> COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440704#440704
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warning |
Chris,
I'd start off first by checking whether the stall warning breaker has tripped,
I believe these are reset by cycling and doesn't physically move the switch toggle
if tripped. So it may appear 'on', but may have tripped if the wiring or
device has shorted. Check voltage on both sides of breaker to check for downstream
short.
If no voltage feed to breaker then check same on upstream 10A dedicated fuse in
DC fuse box, if this has blown then do not replace until you find out why it
blew. Fuses & breakers are there to protect your wiring not the kit - wiring is
going to be the most expensive (& potentially lethal) thing in the aircraft
to replace if you cook it ... and the bundle that surrounds it!
If all of the above voltages look good then start checking for bad earths, although
from your description this is less likely to cause the intermittent issue
you originally had.
Once you've identified whether a power short/bad connection is in play, then comes
the challenge of sourcing it to wiring or faulty kit. The latter is going
to a PITA given I've never found a schematic of what goes on inside the stall
warning box, in theory it shouldn't be that complex but there are way too many
connections for something that should be 'simple'!
Rob R
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440708#440708
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
Viperdoc wrote:
> When was the last time your actuators were rebuilt? If you found gunked up check
valves I'll bet you a dollar to a dozen do units that your shuttle valves
are gunned up and leaking. That also means your chevron seals in the gear sure
also on poor condition. Pull the actuators and rebuild them along with replacing
the shuttle valves. Soon after that you will have to do the break proportionater
valve. Not fun but doable. Don't forget the flap shuttle valves and actuator
too.
> The air system is a pain in the ass but very functional once you get all of the
system cleaned up from years of use or misuse.
> They are great airplanes. They are a lot of fun. But! They are labor intensive
because they were used hard as military trainers...yeah yeah I know DOOSAF.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
Thanks Doc.
Actuator seals were all done about a year ago which is why this is puzzling to
me and the mechanic (he did the overhauls), flap maybe 2-3 years ago (logbook
not in front of me). Biggest challenge is I am flying the Yak a lot more regularly
than previous owner who travels a lot, and because there is a slow leak
in the emergency side, I suspect he just got used to topping off the Main system
and may not have noticed the stuff that I see since it is all still 'new' to
me.
Gear to neutral is an acceptable workaround for the near term, but I'll try Dennis'
check on the actuators and we are going to try and doublecheck the compressor
banjo as well since that is a known leak path and looked 'non-standard'.
I agree based on some friends' Yak's and CJ's that once it is close to 100% the
pneumatics is a remarkably reliable system but these things in general take way
more care than the average spam can - doesn't matter once you hit the runup
area though and see everybody looking up from the Cessna or Piper and wishing
they were you....
'Gimp
--------
Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440710#440710
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Flying 52 without cowling |
Don't fly it with cowl off. You will be causing all of our War Bird insuran
ce rates to increase ????
Gary G.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 11, 2015, at 19:50, Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com> wrote:
>
> Danged! Why take that risk?! It's such a simple cowling to put and take of
f.
> Don't do it. Your CHT's are going to be all over the place! Run it without
the cowling then check it with the LASE temp gun. You will be totally confu
sed by the numbers you see. Walt and Bill are correct.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 11, 2015, at 6:50 PM, migfighter42 <migfighter42@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Agreed, don't do it. Without the cowl, airflow is not properly contained/
coltrolled. Aerodynamics are also different. I tried it once, made half a la
p and was redline.
>>
>> Don't do it.
>>
>>
>> Bill Culberson
>> Red Star Aero Services
>>
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Bill1200 <billdykes52@hotmail.com>
>> Date:04/11/2015 5:54 PM (GMT-06:00)
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Cc:
>> Subject: Yak-List: Flying 52 without cowling
>>
>>
>> Just put on new engine, some adjustments left. Want to test fly it in the
pattern without cowling, to facilitate work on the ground. Anyone have expe
rience with this in regards to cylinder temps
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440676#440676
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
= --> ======================
==========================
==========================
==== -=============
==========================
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>>
>>
>>
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>
>
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>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warning |
Chris on my Yak the stall warning was never hooked up here or in=C2-Russi
a, I believe the wires are disconnected on the left side panel in the area
of your left ass cheek, but=C2-when talking to one=C2-Russian he=C2-s
aid that the warning worked upright and inverted which might be giving your
mechanic a head scratcher. As=C2-I enjoy flying my Yak acrobatically I t
hink the bussing in my ear would get old quick, just my=C2-two cents.Bill
WadeN4450Y
=C2- From: Rob Rowe <yak-list@robrowe.plus.com>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 12:11 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stall warning
Chris,
I'd start off first by checking whether the stall warning breaker has tripp
ed, I believe these are reset by cycling and doesn't physically move the sw
itch toggle if tripped. So it may appear 'on', but may have tripped if the
wiring or device has shorted. Check voltage on both sides of breaker to che
ck for downstream short.
If no voltage feed to breaker then check same on upstream 10A dedicated fus
e in DC fuse box, if this has blown then do not replace until you find out
why it blew. Fuses & breakers are there to protect your wiring not the kit
- wiring is going to be the most expensive (& potentially lethal) thing in
the aircraft to replace if you cook it ... and the bundle that surrounds it
!
If all of the above voltages look good then start checking for bad earths,
although from your description this is less likely to cause the intermitten
t issue you originally had.
Once you've identified whether a power short/bad connection is in play, the
n comes the challenge of sourcing it to wiring or faulty kit. The latter is
going to a PITA given I've never found a schematic of what goes on inside
the stall warning box, in theory it shouldn't be that complex but there are
way too many connections for something that should be 'simple'!
Rob R
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440708#440708
S -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
Looking at the emergency system there are not a lot of places that may leak:
First: check the air tank connection for leaks.
Second: The one way valve next to the air tank
Third: The emergency air tap.
Fourth: The hose connecting the air tank with the manometer. That is what I
had years ago. The hose was most likely never changed since day one. If that goes
in flight you will have no em. air at all !
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440734#440734
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warning |
Just don't stall.
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 13, 2015, at 01:11, Rob Rowe <yak-list@robrowe.plus.com> wrote:
>
>
> Chris,
> I'd start off first by checking whether the stall warning breaker has tripped,
I believe these are reset by cycling and doesn't physically move the switch
toggle if tripped. So it may appear 'on', but may have tripped if the wiring or
device has shorted. Check voltage on both sides of breaker to check for downstream
short.
> If no voltage feed to breaker then check same on upstream 10A dedicated fuse
in DC fuse box, if this has blown then do not replace until you find out why it
blew. Fuses & breakers are there to protect your wiring not the kit - wiring
is going to be the most expensive (& potentially lethal) thing in the aircraft
to replace if you cook it ... and the bundle that surrounds it!
> If all of the above voltages look good then start checking for bad earths, although
from your description this is less likely to cause the intermittent issue
you originally had.
> Once you've identified whether a power short/bad connection is in play, then
comes the challenge of sourcing it to wiring or faulty kit. The latter is going
to a PITA given I've never found a schematic of what goes on inside the stall
warning box, in theory it shouldn't be that complex but there are way too many
connections for something that should be 'simple'!
> Rob R
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440708#440708
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warning |
That's been my solution. It would be nice if I could use if I so desired.
Chris Ober
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 12, 2015, at 6:01 PM, Bill Geipel <l129bs@gmail.com> wrote:
Just don't stall.
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 13, 2015, at 01:11, Rob Rowe <yak-list@robrowe.plus.com> wrote:
>
>
> Chris,
> I'd start off first by checking whether the stall warning breaker has tripped,
I believe these are reset by cycling and doesn't physically move the switch
toggle if tripped. So it may appear 'on', but may have tripped if the wiring or
device has shorted. Check voltage on both sides of breaker to check for downstream
short.
> If no voltage feed to breaker then check same on upstream 10A dedicated fuse
in DC fuse box, if this has blown then do not replace until you find out why it
blew. Fuses & breakers are there to protect your wiring not the kit - wiring
is going to be the most expensive (& potentially lethal) thing in the aircraft
to replace if you cook it ... and the bundle that surrounds it!
> If all of the above voltages look good then start checking for bad earths, although
from your description this is less likely to cause the intermittent issue
you originally had.
> Once you've identified whether a power short/bad connection is in play, then
comes the challenge of sourcing it to wiring or faulty kit. The latter is going
to a PITA given I've never found a schematic of what goes on inside the stall
warning box, in theory it shouldn't be that complex but there are way too many
connections for something that should be 'simple'!
> Rob R
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440708#440708
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warning |
I have a customized, built in stall warning system. As I approach L/D max it shakes,
a lot. I don't even know what L/D max means but it sounds cool. So I pull
until it shakes, a lot, (enough to scare me) then stop pulling. With the stall
horn blowing (beeping) I can't hear the radio. And that means I can't hear
the tower tell me my gear is up. So when the tower says my gear is up, I know
I am stalling. It's my customized stall warning back up system.
I can send you the drawings.
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 13, 2015, at 08:54, Chris Ober <christopherjober@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> That's been my solution. It would be nice if I could use if I so desired.
>
> Chris Ober
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 6:01 PM, Bill Geipel <l129bs@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Just don't stall.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 13, 2015, at 01:11, Rob Rowe <yak-list@robrowe.plus.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Chris,
>> I'd start off first by checking whether the stall warning breaker has tripped,
I believe these are reset by cycling and doesn't physically move the switch
toggle if tripped. So it may appear 'on', but may have tripped if the wiring
or device has shorted. Check voltage on both sides of breaker to check for downstream
short.
>> If no voltage feed to breaker then check same on upstream 10A dedicated fuse
in DC fuse box, if this has blown then do not replace until you find out why
it blew. Fuses & breakers are there to protect your wiring not the kit - wiring
is going to be the most expensive (& potentially lethal) thing in the aircraft
to replace if you cook it ... and the bundle that surrounds it!
>> If all of the above voltages look good then start checking for bad earths, although
from your description this is less likely to cause the intermittent issue
you originally had.
>> Once you've identified whether a power short/bad connection is in play, then
comes the challenge of sourcing it to wiring or faulty kit. The latter is going
to a PITA given I've never found a schematic of what goes on inside the stall
warning box, in theory it shouldn't be that complex but there are way too many
connections for something that should be 'simple'!
>> Rob R
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440708#440708
>
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
ROFLMAO! Do units! Apple strikes again! Donuts Apple!
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 10:48 AM, Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com> wrote:
>
>
> When was the last time your actuators were rebuilt? If you found gunked up check
valves I'll bet you a dollar to a dozen do units that your shuttle valves
are gunned up and leaking. That also means your chevron seals in the gear sure
also on poor condition. Pull the actuators and rebuild them along with replacing
the shuttle valves. Soon after that you will have to do the break proportionater
valve. Not fun but doable. Don't forget the flap shuttle valves and actuator
too.
> The air system is a pain in the ass but very functional once you get all of the
system cleaned up from years of use or misuse.
> They are great airplanes. They are a lot of fun. But! They are labor intensive
because they were used hard as military trainers...yeah yeah I know DOOSAF.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 12, 2015, at 10:25 AM, AcroGimp <jlknolla@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Dennis, in a previous post you suggested the following IF we heard anything
from front handle with main air ON and (I assume) aircraft on gear.
>>
>>
>>> Assuming you hear the "hiss" at the front gear selector, you will now have
to isolate which actuator is leaking. You will need to remove the
>>> 90 degree elbow on the bottom end of the actuator (the end closest to
>>> the chrome shaft) and place your finger over the male 90 degree fitting
>>> with the main air turned on. If the actuator is leaking, you willfeel
>>> and hear the air coming out of the 90 degree fitting. If the first one
>>> you check is ok, move to the other two.
>>>
>>> Let me know what you find and I will do my best to help you troubleshoot
>>> the system.
>>
>>
>> We were not able to discern any leak at the vent on the front handle with the
plane on jacks, nor did we hear anything obvious when the gear were up and locked
or down. We cycled the gear with both front and rear handles.
>>
>> If I don't fly tomorrow I can still do this check and report back.
>>
>> 'Gimp
>>
>> --------
>> Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
>> COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440704#440704
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 12:02 PM, AcroGimp <jlknolla@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Viperdoc wrote:
>> When was the last time your actuators were rebuilt? If you found gunked up check
valves I'll bet you a dollar to a dozen do units that your shuttle valves
are gunned up and leaking. That also means your chevron seals in the gear sure
also on poor condition. Pull the actuators and rebuild them along with replacing
the shuttle valves. Soon after that you will have to do the break proportionater
valve. Not fun but doable. Don't forget the flap shuttle valves and actuator
too.
>> The air system is a pain in the ass but very functional once you get all of
the system cleaned up from years of use or misuse.
>> They are great airplanes. They are a lot of fun. But! They are labor intensive
because they were used hard as military trainers...yeah yeah I know DOOSAF.
>> Doc
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
> Thanks Doc.
>
> Actuator seals were all done about a year ago which is why this is puzzling to
me and the mechanic (he did the overhauls), flap maybe 2-3 years ago (logbook
not in front of me). Biggest challenge is I am flying the Yak a lot more regularly
than previous owner who travels a lot, and because there is a slow leak
in the emergency side, I suspect he just got used to topping off the Main system
and may not have noticed the stuff that I see since it is all still 'new'
to me.
>
> Gear to neutral is an acceptable workaround for the near term, but I'll try Dennis'
check on the actuators and we are going to try and doublecheck the compressor
banjo as well since that is a known leak path and looked 'non-standard'.
>
> I agree based on some friends' Yak's and CJ's that once it is close to 100% the
pneumatics is a remarkably reliable system but these things in general take
way more care than the average spam can - doesn't matter once you hit the runup
area though and see everybody looking up from the Cessna or Piper and wishing
they were you....
>
> 'Gimp
>
> --------
> Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
> COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440710#440710
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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