Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:08 AM - Re: Re: Air Leak Advice (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
2. 06:27 AM - Re: Air compressor tear down (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
3. 06:32 AM - Re: CJ fuel low lights (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
4. 07:12 AM - Re: Re: Air Leak Advice (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: Re: Air Leak Advice (A. Dennis Savarese)
6. 07:37 AM - Re: Re: Air Leak Advice (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
7. 08:28 AM - Re: Parachutes for Sale (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
8. 09:17 AM - Re: Re: Air Leak Advice (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
9. 09:26 AM - Re: Air Leak Advice (AcroGimp)
10. 11:28 AM - Re: CJ fuel low lights (Gill Gutierrez)
11. 01:15 PM - Re: Parachutes for Sale (cjpilot710@aol.com)
12. 01:39 PM - Re: CJ fuel low lights (keithmckinley)
13. 06:09 PM - Re: Parachutes for Sale (Roger Kemp)
14. 06:25 PM - Re: Air compressor tear down (Roger Kemp)
15. 06:51 PM - M14P ten gone shutdown (Roger Kemp)
16. 06:59 PM - Page 2 M14P shutdown Protocol (Roger Kemp)
17. 07:10 PM - (schwartzcompany@att.net)
18. 07:33 PM - CJ-6 Gill Shutters (Brett Grooms)
19. 07:40 PM - Re: CJ-6 Gill Shutters (cjpilot710@aol.com)
20. 07:49 PM - Re: CJ-6 Gill Shutters (Roger Kemp)
21. 07:54 PM - Re: CJ-6 Gill Shutters (Brett Grooms)
22. 08:00 PM - Re: CJ-6 Gill Shutters (doug sapp)
23. 09:39 PM - Re: Air compressor tear down (Roger Kemp)
24. 09:59 PM - Re: Air compressor tear down (Roger Kemp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
Thanks Dennis, I knew I had the name wrong.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
Shear coupling.
Dennis
________________________________
From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 12:59 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
Cool.
George, what is the proper name of the piece between the engine itself and the
compressor drive assembly? Is it a mounting BLOCK, or just what? I called it
an accessory drive, which is not really correct. What is the name of that piece
can you tell me please?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George S. Coy
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 1:48 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
And just to confuse things, we have in inventory an alternator drive for those
who do not use air compressors and want a backup alternator IFR.
George Coy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 1:43 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
--> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
To be specific, there is something called an ACCESSORY DRIVE. It connects
to the COMPRESSOR. It also connects to the ENGINE. There is a gasket
in-between the engine and the accessory drive stage and then another gasket between
the drive and the compressor itself. When you order a new compressor, it
does not come with an accessory drive piece attached.
Thus two gaskets. And they look very close to being identical, except one
has a hole for an oil passage. I am not talking about putting on a gasket backwards.
I was talking about two gaskets.
Gimp, 40 hours is a very short period of time. One of things you have to
consider is the shaft shear point, which is essentially two "rivet" looking things
that hold the two pieces together. It has already been mentioned that these
are the pieces that shear causing the compressor to no longer be
driven. Some people decide to save money and just replace these rivet
things with whatever they can find at Advance Auto. Clearly, if this shear coupling
was not replaced by a new one, or by one that came from a good overhaul
facility (Jill or Coy) then you have no idea what was put in there.
Take a close look. See if it looks like some home-brew repair.
The next issue is your engine reversal on shut-down. That is a very bad thing
and needs to be halted and folks should be talking to you about that as a number
one priority. The fact that this is what might (or probably) was what caused
this shear coupling to let go indicates there is some serious force involved
here. Another weak area in this engine design is the ACCESSORY SHAFT GEAR DRIVE.
If this darn thing manages to twist, the first indication will be your
timing changing on the engine. If it does get damaged, you are talking yanking
the whole engine out. So you need to get
this reverse rotation on shut down resolved. A couple of things that comes
to mind are:
1. You're not running auto gas are you?
2. What kind of plugs and wires are you using?
3. Check the timing. Even though you are shutting the mags OFF, ought of whack
timing impacts plug temps which could cause a run-on.
4. Engine running rich at idle... a whole slew of things can cause that.
5. Valve Lash.
Are you letting the engine cool down before you shut it off? Dennis, I know you
have something to add here. You're better on the engine than I am, and so are
a number of other people.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
--> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
When you pull the complete assembly apart in order to install a new
compressor, there are two gaskets Doc. They are not the same.
I do not use any form of gasket maker on these items.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
Sorry Mark, your answers did not show up on my email chain until now. Yes the gasket
can be put on backwards but is pretty obvious if you fit the gasket to the
base of the compressor first with Permatex 51813 anaerobic gasket maker. The
alignment of the oil holes will be intuitive and the sealant does not for until
it is heated.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 23, 2015, at 9:22 PM, Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gimp,
> Which gasket are you referring to? The aluminum crush washer on the
> check
valve or the gasket on the accessory drive case. It is real tough to get the gasket
forming the oil seal on base of the compressor as it mates to the accessory
case wrong. I guess if you really worked hard at it one could though.
> Doc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 23, 2015, at 12:27 PM, AcroGimp <jlknolla@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Checked the logs and compressor has 41 hrs of operation.
>>
>> I have had a reverse rotation/dieseling event I think twice in about
15-16 flights, both times only a couple of blades but still it did happen.
Last occurrence was flight prior to flight where everything pumped up correctly,
so 3 flights ago.
>>
>> When I overhauled the snot valve side check valve it was very dirty,
>> the
fill side was clean, so I am planning to overhaul PRV and snot valve during this
down cycle, as well as putting a serious clean on the little piston valve in
the coupler at the bottom of the compressor.
>>
>> Until I remove the old compressor I won't know if it is a shear shaft
issue or something else but I will absolutely check the compressor gasket for the
oil passage. Would you guys go back to the mech for compensation if the gasket
was installed incorrectly (asking, first airplane and all)?
>>
>> Thanks for the support and info...
>>
>> 'Gimp
>>
>> --------
>> Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
>> COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441181#441181
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
http: -Matt Dralle, List Admin.======
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| Subject: | Air compressor tear down |
Doc.
Talk to Dennis, he'll show you.
What I have been trying to come up with the title for, albeit incorrectly, is the
mounting pad/boss/plate that the sheer coupling goes into. That plate has
a gasket on the side that pushes against the engine, and another gasket on the
side the compressor comes up against. Thus two gaskets. Call Jill, she'll
be glad to send you one of each kind. I already have, twice.
You have a compressor that bolts onto a 90 gear drive assembly. That in turn pushes
up against the sheer drive "housing" ?? I don't know the "official name"
for it.
Apparently you never realized it was there when you pulled your compressor off.
That is entirely possible if it was stuck to the engine real good and you yanked
on the compressor and just that part came off. In my case, both pieces came
off, ... twice .... and I needed to replace both gaskets. Regardless, personally
when I take the torque off the bolts that hold a gasket in place I always
replace it. It is such a pain to get off, that I don't want to take the chance
of a used and compressed gasket leaking.
If you notice the main oil passage gallery there is a "cup" that has been ground
out on one side of that piece, and that is the part that the proper gasket must
be mated to.
I think I've beat this to death enough. Now you know.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2015 3:27 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Air compressor tear down
For those that want to see the compressor gasket alignment, the shear coupling,
the plenary gear, the alignment sleeve as it is mated to the accessory drive
case and exactly where the shear coupling lives and what has to come off to replace
it. See the following photos.
Not sure what you were talking about taking apart to replace the shear coupling
Mark. When you got a replacement compressor did you only get the cylinder assembly?
Doc
Sent from my iPad
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre>
Message 3
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| Subject: | CJ fuel low lights |
Betcha a nickel Doug Sapp might have another.
Hey... Just a thought.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Wrobel
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2015 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ fuel low lights
Frank, any chance you could send a copy of the schematic to me Email is clouddog22@gmail.com
thanks. Greg,
On Apr 25, 2015 7:37 PM, "Frank Stelwagon" <pfstelwagon@earthlink.net> wrote:
Where do you apply the ground when you test them? These aircraft are getting
old and corrosion is sneaking in, you may be seeing a poor ground condition
between the outer wing where the switch in the tank unit is located and
the center structure. Incidentally I got my schematic from Doug Sapp, excellent
quality.
Frank
----- Original Message ----- From: "keithmckinley" <cetopfed@gmail.com>
To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2015 4:43 PM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ fuel low lights
I have a scratchy schematic but can anyone tell me the mechanism
by which the low fuel lights trigger on the CJ through the transmitter. I seem
to have a bad ground in the circuit but it's strange it would be occurring
on both tanks apparently simultaneously. Especially since I see a separate ground
for each sending unit. Anyway, with under 10L in each tank I'm not getting
any lights. positive power to lights is there and they test when I intentionally
ground them.
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441309#441309
==========
List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
==========
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
Ought to be a lot of different opinions here, but I bring my engine to idle (20%
by the way), kill the mags, and when doing so open the throttle wide open until
the prop stops and then pull back.
I don't think that makes a hill of beans as to your issue though.
How often do you change the plugs (I am thinking a carbon hot spot on the plugs
maybe?). I change mine once a year. I never clean them, just replace them.
What is the gap on the plugs? (.018 - .022)
I'm running out of ideas to be honest. We've covered most of the bases.
Lastly.... Let me say that the M-14P engine is really NOT my field of expertise.
Like a lot of people, I am just repeating my own personal experiences although
I do have a fair amount of wrench time on (older model) high performance automobile
engines. The simple fact though is that if the engine kicks back, it
has to have fuel and a source of ignition, which COULD be a carbon hot spot.
I know I am going to catch hell for this, but I am going to offer you one last
suggestion. Go buy a QUART of Marvel Mystery Oil and pour the WHOLE QUART
into your fuel. Yes, I know.. this is well beyond recommended mixture ratios,
but rest easy... I have done it many many MANY times with no damage on these
engines, in fact one quart per 30 gallons! Go fly and run the fool out of the
engine. Keep full throttle and about 90% for about 30 minutes, this assumes
that you can keep oil and cylinder head temps out of the red! But you want to
get the engine turning and burning hard. Let it slowly cool down in flight and
then land and try it again. ALSO bring your idle RPM down for 28% to about
20% before you do this. Now land, cut it off and see what happens. For the
next month or so, run MMO at the recommended levels. See if this helps. Don't
be surprised if the engine idles much better as well.
I have my flame proof suit on, so others can have at it. :-) By the way, no,
I am not wearing a FLIGHT SUIT (inside joke).
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AcroGimp
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2015 2:06 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
And now the later...
I do occasionally have a stumble on Mag 2 during run-up check that I had chalked
up to occasional plug fouling during extended warm-up periods, usually clears
up after a brief run-up. Had not considered this related before, but now comes
up with respect to the timing question brought up - possibly related?
Also, on shutdown , I run it up 65-70% for 20 seconds watching oil temp and CHT
(only to see if green previously, will now pay more attention), then I pull throttle
to idle, let it stabilize at around 28% idle but only for a second or
two, then cage the mags. As I got into the search function I see there is a recommendation
to open the throttle as the mags are cut, or to cut the mags on
oil pressure drop but before idle - what is the recommendation on the shutdown?
'Gimp
--------
Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441341#441341
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
All good advice Mark. MMO does work!
Only one comment - the idle on the M14 should be around 26%with the
throttle all the way back. At 20% many of the M14's will not continue
to run. Most will stumble and stall out. The M14 maintenance manual
does say 26%. How to properly set the idle is another subject.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 4/27/2015 9:07 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD wrote:
>
> Ought to be a lot of different opinions here, but I bring my engine to idle (20%
by the way), kill the mags, and when doing so open the throttle wide open
until the prop stops and then pull back.
>
> I don't think that makes a hill of beans as to your issue though.
>
> How often do you change the plugs (I am thinking a carbon hot spot on the plugs
maybe?). I change mine once a year. I never clean them, just replace them.
>
> What is the gap on the plugs? (.018 - .022)
>
> I'm running out of ideas to be honest. We've covered most of the bases.
>
> Lastly.... Let me say that the M-14P engine is really NOT my field of expertise.
Like a lot of people, I am just repeating my own personal experiences although
I do have a fair amount of wrench time on (older model) high performance
automobile engines. The simple fact though is that if the engine kicks back,
it has to have fuel and a source of ignition, which COULD be a carbon hot spot.
I know I am going to catch hell for this, but I am going to offer you one
last suggestion. Go buy a QUART of Marvel Mystery Oil and pour the WHOLE QUART
into your fuel. Yes, I know.. this is well beyond recommended mixture ratios,
but rest easy... I have done it many many MANY times with no damage on these
engines, in fact one quart per 30 gallons! Go fly and run the fool out of the
engine. Keep full throttle and about 90% for about 30 minutes, this assumes
that you can keep oil and cylinder head temps out of the red! But you want
to get the engine turning and burning hard. Let it sl!
> owly cool down in flight and then land and try it again. ALSO bring your idle
RPM down for 28% to about 20% before you do this. Now land, cut it off and
see what happens. For the next month or so, run MMO at the recommended levels.
See if this helps. Don't be surprised if the engine idles much better as
well.
>
> I have my flame proof suit on, so others can have at it. :-) By the way,
no, I am not wearing a FLIGHT SUIT (inside joke).
>
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AcroGimp
> Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2015 2:06 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
>
>
> And now the later...
>
> I do occasionally have a stumble on Mag 2 during run-up check that I had chalked
up to occasional plug fouling during extended warm-up periods, usually clears
up after a brief run-up. Had not considered this related before, but now
comes up with respect to the timing question brought up - possibly related?
>
> Also, on shutdown , I run it up 65-70% for 20 seconds watching oil temp and CHT
(only to see if green previously, will now pay more attention), then I pull
throttle to idle, let it stabilize at around 28% idle but only for a second or
two, then cage the mags. As I got into the search function I see there is a
recommendation to open the throttle as the mags are cut, or to cut the mags on
oil pressure drop but before idle - what is the recommendation on the shutdown?
>
> 'Gimp
>
> --------
> Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
> COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441341#441341
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
I strand corrected.
My engine idles at about 21% smooth as a watch. I must have gotten lucky. :-)
Was hoping you'd come in with better ideas actually.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2015 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
--> <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
All good advice Mark. MMO does work!
Only one comment - the idle on the M14 should be around 26%with the throttle all
the way back. At 20% many of the M14's will not continue to run. Most will
stumble and stall out. The M14 maintenance manual does say 26%. How to properly
set the idle is another subject.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 4/27/2015 9:07 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD wrote:
> --> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Ought to be a lot of different opinions here, but I bring my engine to idle (20%
by the way), kill the mags, and when doing so open the throttle wide open
until the prop stops and then pull back.
>
> I don't think that makes a hill of beans as to your issue though.
>
> How often do you change the plugs (I am thinking a carbon hot spot on the plugs
maybe?). I change mine once a year. I never clean them, just replace them.
>
> What is the gap on the plugs? (.018 - .022)
>
> I'm running out of ideas to be honest. We've covered most of the bases.
>
> Lastly.... Let me say that the M-14P engine is really NOT my field of expertise.
Like a lot of people, I am just repeating my own personal experiences although
I do have a fair amount of wrench time on (older model) high performance
automobile engines. The simple fact though is that if the engine kicks back,
it has to have fuel and a source of ignition, which COULD be a carbon hot spot.
I know I am going to catch hell for this, but I am going to offer you one
last suggestion. Go buy a QUART of Marvel Mystery Oil and pour the WHOLE QUART
into your fuel. Yes, I know.. this is well beyond recommended mixture ratios,
but rest easy... I have done it many many MANY times with no damage on these
engines, in fact one quart per 30 gallons! Go fly and run the fool out of the
engine. Keep full throttle and about 90% for about 30 minutes, this assumes
that you can keep oil and cylinder head temps out of the red! But you want
to get the engine turning and burning hard. Let it !
sl!
> owly cool down in flight and then land and try it again. ALSO bring your idle
RPM down for 28% to about 20% before you do this. Now land, cut it off and
see what happens. For the next month or so, run MMO at the recommended levels.
See if this helps. Don't be surprised if the engine idles much better as
well.
>
> I have my flame proof suit on, so others can have at it. :-) By the way,
no, I am not wearing a FLIGHT SUIT (inside joke).
>
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AcroGimp
> Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2015 2:06 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
>
>
> And now the later...
>
> I do occasionally have a stumble on Mag 2 during run-up check that I had chalked
up to occasional plug fouling during extended warm-up periods, usually clears
up after a brief run-up. Had not considered this related before, but now
comes up with respect to the timing question brought up - possibly related?
>
> Also, on shutdown , I run it up 65-70% for 20 seconds watching oil temp and CHT
(only to see if green previously, will now pay more attention), then I pull
throttle to idle, let it stabilize at around 28% idle but only for a second or
two, then cage the mags. As I got into the search function I see there is a
recommendation to open the throttle as the mags are cut, or to cut the mags on
oil pressure drop but before idle - what is the recommendation on the shutdown?
>
> 'Gimp
>
> --------
> Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
> COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441341#441341
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Parachutes for Sale |
I am not a Lawyer.... just a member of this list.
However it dawns on me that if a Yak List member puts something for sale ON THIS
LIST, (and no one has a problem with that) then the seller must also accept
the risk of someone complaining about problems with the sale on this list as
well.
If you don't want to risk that, then don't put it on this list to begin with.
Just my 2 cents and I am sure many might disagree.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Geipel
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2015 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Parachutes for Sale
Well I find it kind of educational. Who to buy from and who not to buy from. Or
who too maybe or maybe not trust that a deal is closed. I'm pretty sure that
that once offered, accepted and payment tendered and received, you can't just
change your mind. Although if he sent the money back, the postage to send the
money and the interest on the money, it may be acceptable to the buyer but not
required.
Let's not get into a pissing contest. It should be kept as a private issue off
line. However, if this is acceptable behavior for our group, I shall be more cautious
as to whom I deal with.
After all, many on the list sell to many on the list.
It's actually a nice break from the weeks on end of air leaks discussion. It's
a pneumatic airplane. Part of the adventure. Live with it.
At my age I have air leaks as well.
Bill
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 27, 2015, at 02:40, Jan Mevis <jan.mevis@informavia.be> wrote:
Really? This is rather remarkable.
A seller in the US has the right to change his mind after a deal is concluded?
I am amazed.
So, we Europeans have to be very cautious when we want to deal with US citizens?
Mr Martinez, no worries, I won't comment any further.
I agree that this item is a topic that never should have appeared on this list.
Nor the offer for sale that never really was an offer for sale.
J.
From: Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com>
Date: Sunday 26 April 2015 19:13
To: "yak-list@matronics.com" <yak-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Parachutes for Sale
Did I not read that the money was refunded? In the U.S., the seller has the right
to change their minds concerning the sale of private property. It becomes
illegal when funds are taken and then the product is not delivered. In that case
the seller has committed fraud and the buyer has legal recourse.
I have known Jon Blake for a number of years. He has always been forthright and
honorable. As a retired U.S. Army Aviator I would expect nothing less. Since
he changed his mind and refunded the money no crime was committed. .
Doc
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 26, 2015, at 10:54 AM, Jan Mevis <jan.mevis@informavia.be> wrote:
Indeed, but then there shouldn't be any sales offers via the list either.
Particularly when goods are offered, paid for and then not delivered.
J.
From: Ernest Martinez <erniel29@gmail.com>
Date: Sunday 26 April 2015 15:48
To: "yak-list@matronics.com" <yak-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Parachutes for Sale
Guys,
This is of no interest to most of us on the list. Take it off line!
Ernie
On Sun, Apr 26, 2015 at 6:04 AM, <havard.dale@yaknorway.com> wrote:
Hi Jan
Yes up to now experiences have been good for me too. To me these experiences
damage my trust I have when I enter into agreements of this kind and it makes
me pissed off. Because if we have no trust when dealing overseas everything is
more difficult.
If I sell something and has received payment, I mean that the buyer has all
rights over what I've sold. And I am obliged to do my part of the deal.
A deal is a deal, and for me it takes a long time to build up trust, but only
one second to break it!
Hopefully this is a one time experience, have a nice day.
Br
Havard
-----Original Message-----
From: Jan Mevis <jan.mevis@informavia.be>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2015 10:10:52 +0200
To: yak-list@matronics.com <yak-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Parachutes for Sale
>
>This is nasty indeed, Havard, but being a European myself, I can testify
>that I've never been treated like this when buying from someone in the USA.
>I've bought parts on several occasions from several sources and it was
>always very correctly handled.
>Unfortunately, I have had quite bad experiences in Europe, that is.
>
>Jan
>
>
>On 26/04/15 09:58, "havard.dale@yaknorway.com" <havard.dale@yaknorway.com>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>Yes correct, Chutes was sold but Jon refused to deliver them after the
>>deal was closed and he received the cash.
>>
>>Not funny to make deals, transfer money and arrange for friends to make
>>the pick up at S&F when the seller Mr Jon chicken out from the deal and
>>dont reply at all to people trying to reach him.
>>
>>I Wonder if its like this in US that you can make deals get the cash and
>>two weeks later run like a chicken away from it?
>>
>>For the record Jon has refunded the money, but this is not about the
>>money. Its about gentlemen agreement!!
>>
>>Have a nice day,
>>
>>Hvard
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jon Blake <jblake207@comcast.net>
>>Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2015 18:43:43 -0500
>>To: yak-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Yak-List: Parachutes for Sale
>>
>>>Parachutes are sold. Thanks to all who replied. JB
>>>
>>>Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>>>
>>>jblake207@comcast.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>I have two Strong seat pack (Model 304) that I purchased new in 2006
>>>>from Don Mayer's Parachute Shop. These are 26 foot canopies rated for
>>>>254 pounds and 150 knot opening. Here's a link to the Strong Website
>>>>and the owner's manual:
>>>>http://www.strongparachutes.com/library/Documentation/Emergency/Para-Cus
>>>>hion%20304%20Manual.pdf
>>>>
>>>>These chutes have always been well maintained and on the latest repack
>>>>(last week... April 6th, 2015) the rigger said they looked brand new.
>>>>I DO NOT leave them in the airplane or at the hanger. When not in use,
>>>>they are stored in my guest bedroom for proper humidity control. They
>>>>are military OD green and perfect for the CJ and YAK with bucket seats.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>So why am I selling... I have the opportunity to start flying an RV4
>>>>and the seat pack chute puts my head too high and banging on the canopy
>>>>in the front seat.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>New these chutes are about $2400 each
>>>>(http://www.parachuteshop.com/STRONG.htm or at aircraft spruce and
>>>>specialty at
>>>>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/paracushion311.php.)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Some people may have heard a rumor about a 20-year life span of
>>>>parachutes... I asked my rigger last week and he said that doesn't
>>>>apply here because of the type material used and the FAA TSO and I also
>>>>found this on the Don Mayer's Parachute Shop website:
>>>>http://www.parachuteshop.com/life_limits_parachutes.htm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I'll sell both these chutes for $2200. If you don't like them just
>>>>send them back and I'll refund your money.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Contact me off list if you're interested.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Jon Blake
>>>>jblake207@comcast.net
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
Also do not forget to someday soon run a complete compression test on the engine
and to verify valve lash is set correctly. An eroded exhaust valve? Possibly.
Hope not.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2015 10:07 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
--> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Ought to be a lot of different opinions here, but I bring my engine to idle (20%
by the way), kill the mags, and when doing so open the throttle wide open until
the prop stops and then pull back.
I don't think that makes a hill of beans as to your issue though.
How often do you change the plugs (I am thinking a carbon hot spot on the plugs
maybe?). I change mine once a year. I never clean them, just replace them.
What is the gap on the plugs? (.018 - .022)
I'm running out of ideas to be honest. We've covered most of the bases.
Lastly.... Let me say that the M-14P engine is really NOT my field of expertise.
Like a lot of people, I am just repeating my own personal experiences although
I do have a fair amount of wrench time on (older model) high performance automobile
engines. The simple fact though is that if the engine kicks back, it
has to have fuel and a source of ignition, which COULD be a carbon hot spot.
I know I am going to catch hell for this, but I am going to offer you one last
suggestion. Go buy a QUART of Marvel Mystery Oil and pour the WHOLE QUART
into your fuel. Yes, I know.. this is well beyond recommended mixture ratios,
but rest easy... I have done it many many MANY times with no damage on these
engines, in fact one quart per 30 gallons! Go fly and run the fool out of the
engine. Keep full throttle and about 90% for about 30 minutes, this assumes
that you can keep oil and cylinder head temps out of the red! But you want to
get the engine turning and burning hard. Let it sl!
owly cool down in flight and then land and try it again. ALSO bring your idle
RPM down for 28% to about 20% before you do this. Now land, cut it off and see
what happens. For the next month or so, run MMO at the recommended levels.
See if this helps. Don't be surprised if the engine idles much better as well.
I have my flame proof suit on, so others can have at it. :-) By the way, no,
I am not wearing a FLIGHT SUIT (inside joke).
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AcroGimp
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2015 2:06 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Air Leak Advice
And now the later...
I do occasionally have a stumble on Mag 2 during run-up check that I had chalked
up to occasional plug fouling during extended warm-up periods, usually clears
up after a brief run-up. Had not considered this related before, but now comes
up with respect to the timing question brought up - possibly related?
Also, on shutdown , I run it up 65-70% for 20 seconds watching oil temp and CHT
(only to see if green previously, will now pay more attention), then I pull throttle
to idle, let it stabilize at around 28% idle but only for a second or
two, then cage the mags. As I got into the search function I see there is a recommendation
to open the throttle as the mags are cut, or to cut the mags on
oil pressure drop but before idle - what is the recommendation on the shutdown?
'Gimp
--------
Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441341#441341
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Air Leak Advice |
mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m wrote:
> Also do not forget to someday soon run a complete compression test on the engine
and to verify valve lash is set correctly. An eroded exhaust valve? Possibly.
Hope not.
>
>
>
> --
We did a compression check on pre-buy and the lowest was 74 or 76 by memory, most
were 78/80. I participated in that and observed the numbers myself.
'Gimp
--------
Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441387#441387
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| Subject: | CJ fuel low lights |
Low fuel lights are powered directly from the instrument switch. Front and
rear cockpit lights are paralleled and are ground at low fuel level by a
switch on the tank float level. So grounding is done independently in each
wing, so it seems unlikely that grounding is an issue. I would check to see
if you have power to the lights with instruments powered up.
Gill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of keithmckinley
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2015 4:43 PM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ fuel low lights
I have a scratchy schematic but can anyone tell me the mechanism by which
the low fuel lights trigger on the CJ through the transmitter. I seem to
have a bad ground in the circuit but it's strange it would be occurring on
both tanks apparently simultaneously. Especially since I see a separate
ground for each sending unit. Anyway, with under 10L in each tank I'm not
getting any lights. positive power to lights is there and they test when I
intentionally ground them.
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441309#441309
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Parachutes for Sale |
Yep you have to be careful about the American's you deal with in America.
After all look at the lying, dimwit, socialist, most of our citizens voted
to be president.
They are now it seem in the majority.
Blake like me is a vet. Un like me, he's an former Army helicopter pilot
who has been shot at.
If you have any experience with helicopter pilots in general, you know they
live a life close to catastrophe.
If they see something that isn't right, they either don't or change the
situation. Screw protocol.
And if you've been shot at, you have a tendency to change ANY situation
which is in not your best interest and screw protocol.
Army helicopter pilots in general screw protocol.
Army helicopter pilots will often screw protocol to get GIs out of a jam at
the expense of their own life.
So as far as this pilot is concerned, Army helicopter pilots are welcome to
screw protocol whenever they wish.
And I can tell you for sure that Army helicopter didn't vote for that
Lying, dimwit, socialist we have for a president.
Yep the rest of those Americans you need to watch out for.
My spine thus empty.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 4/27/2015 11:29:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mark.bitterlich@navy.mil writes:
Really? This is rather remarkable.
A seller in the US has the right to change his mind after a deal is
concluded?
I am amazed.
So, we Europeans have to be very cautious when we want to deal with US
citizens?
Mr Martinez, no worries, I won't comment any further.
I agree that this item is a topic that never should have appeared on this
list.
Nor the offer for sale that never really was an offer for sale.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: CJ fuel low lights |
This thread has come full circle.
In the previous posts I explained I have power to all 4 lights. They test good
to ground. I believe, it will be an easy check pulling the cannon plug to determine
whether the issue is in the sender itself or a bad ground through the sender
I'll post what I find.
Again thanks for the comments all
K
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
X26 Sebastian, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441398#441398
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Parachutes for Sale |
Pappy,
I new there was another reason I liked you. You are a Vet too.
Oh yeah, SHACK!
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 27, 2015, at 3:15 PM, cjpilot710@aol.com wrote:
>
> Yep you have to be careful about the American's you deal with in America.
> After all look at the lying, dimwit, socialist, most of our citizens voted
to be president.
> They are now it seem in the majority.
> Blake like me is a vet. Un like me, he's an former Army helicopter pilot w
ho has been shot at.
> If you have any experience with helicopter pilots in general, you know the
y live a life close to catastrophe.
> If they see something that isn't right, they either don't or change the si
tuation. Screw protocol.
> And if you've been shot at, you have a tendency to change ANY situation wh
ich is in not your best interest and screw protocol.
> Army helicopter pilots in general screw protocol.
> Army helicopter pilots will often screw protocol to get GIs out of a jam a
t the expense of their own life.
> So as far as this pilot is concerned, Army helicopter pilots are welcome t
o screw protocol whenever they wish.
> And I can tell you for sure that Army helicopter didn't vote for that Lyin
g, dimwit, socialist we have for a president.
> Yep the rest of those Americans you need to watch out for.
>
> My spine thus empty.
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
>
> In a message dated 4/27/2015 11:29:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mark.bit
terlich@navy.mil writes:
> Really? This is rather remarkable.
> A seller in the US has the right to change his mind after a deal is co
ncluded?
> I am amazed.
> So, we Europeans have to be very cautious when we want to deal with US
citizens?
> Mr Martinez, no worries, I won't comment any further.
> I agree that this item is a topic that never should have appeared on t
his list.
> Nor the offer for sale that never really was an offer for sale.
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tear down |
Correct there are two gaskets.
CJ gaskets also work on the compressor too.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 27, 2015, at 8:27 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
>
> Doc.
>
> Talk to Dennis, he'll show you.
>
> What I have been trying to come up with the title for, albeit incorrectly, is
the mounting pad/boss/plate that the sheer coupling goes into. That plate has
a gasket on the side that pushes against the engine, and another gasket on the
side the compressor comes up against. Thus two gaskets. Call Jill, she'll
be glad to send you one of each kind. I already have, twice.
>
> You have a compressor that bolts onto a 90 gear drive assembly. That in turn
pushes up against the sheer drive "housing" ?? I don't know the "official name"
for it.
>
> Apparently you never realized it was there when you pulled your compressor off.
That is entirely possible if it was stuck to the engine real good and you
yanked on the compressor and just that part came off. In my case, both pieces
came off, ... twice .... and I needed to replace both gaskets. Regardless, personally
when I take the torque off the bolts that hold a gasket in place I always
replace it. It is such a pain to get off, that I don't want to take the
chance of a used and compressed gasket leaking.
>
> If you notice the main oil passage gallery there is a "cup" that has been ground
out on one side of that piece, and that is the part that the proper gasket
must be mated to.
>
> I think I've beat this to death enough. Now you know.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2015 3:27 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Air compressor tear down
>
> For those that want to see the compressor gasket alignment, the shear coupling,
the plenary gear, the alignment sleeve as it is mated to the accessory drive
case and exactly where the shear coupling lives and what has to come off to
replace it. See the following photos.
> Not sure what you were talking about taking apart to replace the shear coupling
Mark. When you got a replacement compressor did you only get the cylinder assembly?
> Doc
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>
>
> </b></font></pre>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | M14P ten gone shutdown |
Message 16
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| Subject: | Page 2 M14P shutdown Protocol |
Message 17
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Looking for some assistance=0AOil leak on yak 52. Tried prop shaft- seal-
no success. Appears to be front case seal. Any advice to expedite removal
of shutters and splitting case to send out for new seal. ? Best method to r
emove=0AThanks =0ABob=0A=0ASent from Yahoo Mail on Android=0A=0A
Message 18
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| Subject: | CJ-6 Gill Shutters |
Im looking for some advice on tightening the Gill Shutters on a CJ-6. Any assistance
would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Brett
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6 Gill Shutters |
Brett,
Are you sure the gills shutters are not just worn out? I am not sure
there is a way to "tightening" them up.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 4/27/2015 10:34:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
brettg101@comcast.net writes:
--> Yak-List message posted by: Brett Grooms <brettg101@comcast.net>
I=99m looking for some advice on tightening the Gill Shutters on a
CJ-6. Any
assistance would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Brett
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6 Gill Shutters |
Doug has replacement shutter too.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:37 PM, cjpilot710@aol.com wrote:
>
> Brett,
> Are you sure the gills shutters are not just worn out? I am not sure ther
e is a way to "tightening" them up.
>
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
> In a message dated 4/27/2015 10:34:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, brettg10
1@comcast.net writes:
>
> I=99m looking for some advice on tightening the Gill Shutters on a C
J-6. Any assistance would be appreciated.
>
> Thank =======================
=bsp; e ties Day ===================
==========================
=== - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ==========
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>
>
>
>
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6 Gill Shutters |
Hum, well maybe that=99s why we can=99t figure out how to
tighten them. : )
Might have to check with Doug and see what his stock and cost are on
shutters then.
Thank you -
Brett
On Apr 27, 2015, at 10:48 PM, Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com> wrote:
Doug has replacement shutter too.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:37 PM, cjpilot710@aol.com
<mailto:cjpilot710@aol.com> wrote:
> Brett,
> Are you sure the gills shutters are not just worn out? I am not sure
there is a way to "tightening" them up.
>
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
> In a message dated 4/27/2015 10:34:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
brettg101@comcast.net <mailto:brettg101@comcast.net> writes:
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6 Gill Shutters |
Please be more specific.
"Tighten the gills", as in they are loose on the nose case studs?
Shutters themselves are loose?
Center rings are worn, loose in this area??
Need more info
Doug Sapp
On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 7:32 PM, Brett Grooms <brettg101@comcast.net> wrote
:
>
> I=99m looking for some advice on tightening the Gill Shutters on a
CJ-6. Any
> assistance would be appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Brett
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tear down |
Show me what? My disassembled accessory case, pinion gear ( part #14-614-110
), pinion case # 14-614-107), shear pin # 14-614-107), the Bain of the compr
essor drive shaft, the shear pin (#14-611-252-01), the gasket x 2 (# 14-011-
340), and my compressor (AK-50) removed off the the accessory case?
Mark, I realized it (the case) was there with the two gaskets when I pulled t
he compressor off to crack the accessory case off the super charger case. Th
ose pictures came from my totally disassembled M-14 that I tore down. The pa
rts are stored in sealed plastic boxes for spare parts.
I'll rebuild it after I retire. A replacement zero time M-14 P engine in th
e local area became available so I bought it to expedite things.
What does not excite me is the re-attachment of the air lines to the start s
pider. And timing it. Will cross that bridge in due time. Other fish to fry f
or now.
By the way, I have a complete engine rebuild kit from Aerostar. It includes a
ll of the gaskets among other things. The pain in finding parts in it is ne
eding the catalog to look up the parts numbers to see what the part is. Sinc
e all of the parts are wrapped in waxed brown paper with that special Romani
an manor of folding and sealing without tape. They use the terms gasket and c
rush washer interchangeably just to make parts diving interesting! =F0=9F=98
'
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 27, 2015, at 8:27 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitte
rlich@navy.mil> wrote:
>
bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Doc.
>
> Talk to Dennis, he'll show you.
>
> What I have been trying to come up with the title for, albeit incorrectly,
is the mounting pad/boss/plate that the sheer coupling goes into. That pla
te has a gasket on the side that pushes against the engine, and another gask
et on the side the compressor comes up against. Thus two gaskets. Call Ji
ll, she'll be glad to send you one of each kind. I already have, twice.
>
> You have a compressor that bolts onto a 90 gear drive assembly. That in t
urn pushes up against the sheer drive "housing" ?? I don't know the "offici
al name" for it.
>
> Apparently you never realized it was there when you pulled your compressor
off. That is entirely possible if it was stuck to the engine real good and
you yanked on the compressor and just that part came off. In my case, both
pieces came off, ... twice .... and I needed to replace both gaskets. Rega
rdless, personally when I take the torque off the bolts that hold a gasket i
n place I always replace it. It is such a pain to get off, that I don't wan
t to take the chance of a used and compressed gasket leaking.
>
> If you notice the main oil passage gallery there is a "cup" that has been g
round out on one side of that piece, and that is the part that the proper ga
sket must be mated to.
>
> I think I've beat this to death enough. Now you know.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2015 3:27 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Air compressor tear down
>
> For those that want to see the compressor gasket alignment, the shear coup
ling, the plenary gear, the alignment sleeve as it is mated to the accessory
drive case and exactly where the shear coupling lives and what has to come o
ff to replace it. See the following photos.
> Not sure what you were talking about taking apart to replace the shear cou
pling Mark. When you got a replacement compressor did you only get the cylin
der assembly?
> Doc
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> <pre><b><font size=3D2 color="#000000" face=3D"courier new,courier">
>
>
> </b></font></pre>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tear down |
Admittedly, Dennis has shown me a lot.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 27, 2015, at 8:27 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
wrote:
>
>
> Doc.
>
> Talk to Dennis, he'll show you.
>
> What I have been trying to come up with the title for, albeit incorrectly, is
the mounting pad/boss/plate that the sheer coupling goes into. That plate has
a gasket on the side that pushes against the engine, and another gasket on the
side the compressor comes up against. Thus two gaskets. Call Jill, she'll
be glad to send you one of each kind. I already have, twice.
>
> You have a compressor that bolts onto a 90 gear drive assembly. That in turn
pushes up against the sheer drive "housing" ?? I don't know the "official name"
for it.
>
> Apparently you never realized it was there when you pulled your compressor off.
That is entirely possible if it was stuck to the engine real good and you
yanked on the compressor and just that part came off. In my case, both pieces
came off, ... twice .... and I needed to replace both gaskets. Regardless, personally
when I take the torque off the bolts that hold a gasket in place I always
replace it. It is such a pain to get off, that I don't want to take the
chance of a used and compressed gasket leaking.
>
> If you notice the main oil passage gallery there is a "cup" that has been ground
out on one side of that piece, and that is the part that the proper gasket
must be mated to.
>
> I think I've beat this to death enough. Now you know.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2015 3:27 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Air compressor tear down
>
> For those that want to see the compressor gasket alignment, the shear coupling,
the plenary gear, the alignment sleeve as it is mated to the accessory drive
case and exactly where the shear coupling lives and what has to come off to
replace it. See the following photos.
> Not sure what you were talking about taking apart to replace the shear coupling
Mark. When you got a replacement compressor did you only get the cylinder assembly?
> Doc
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>
>
> </b></font></pre>
>
>
>
>
>
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