Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:20 AM - Re: Oil sludge (JL2A)
2. 08:35 AM - Re: Spinner Question (Cpayne)
3. 09:46 AM - Re: Re: Oil sludge (cjpilot710@aol.com)
4. 10:28 AM - Re: Re: Spinner Question (Pilotdog57)
5. 12:13 PM - Re: Spinner Question (AcroGimp)
6. 04:07 PM - Stuck wheel (billvh@ca.rr.com)
7. 05:13 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (A. Dennis Savarese)
8. 05:23 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (doug sapp)
9. 06:46 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (av8ter)
10. 06:50 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (av8ter)
11. 06:54 PM - metric to AN adapter -CJ (av8ter)
12. 07:03 PM - Re: Re: Stuck wheel (Frank Stelwagon)
13. 07:50 PM - Re: Re: Stuck wheel (Walter Lannon)
14. 09:31 PM - Re: Re: Stuck wheel (Gary Gabbard)
15. 11:25 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (Gary Gabbard)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hey Jim - any more info on these overhauls - are they done according to manufacturers
specifications?
We have been getting our engines direct from China, $27k the last one in 2014.
I was quoted $26,436 to overhaul my last timex - the cost of shipping it back
makes it easier to just get another sent out.
A little unsure on how to proceed with my barrel of multigrade! The engine has
around 300 hours of straight mineral oil on it, if I ultrasonic cleaned the oil
cooler, flushed the tank and replaced the hoses, I'm still left with sludge
in the case. I'm tipping that this will then get dislodged and at best undo all
my cleaning efforts, at worst ruin the engine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447471#447471
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Question |
Mounting the back plate is a slow and agonizing process, there is no way around
it, only different recovery techniques. An easy chair and cold beer is often
the reward after each nut is put on. Did I mention that it was a slow process?
I use safety wire around each nut to position and start with a long handled screw
driver and a deft touch . Also a simple wrench made of .063" 0r .090" aluminum,
backed by a thin strip on the back can snug each nut. Final tightening will
be by a steel open-end, ground down to fit.
Removing the 2-piece back plate is not something to do often. Mounting the first
half is not so bad as the second half plate.
Craig Payne
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
JL2A,
I see by your (com.au) address, you most likely not in the USA, and I'm
assuming (Australia). Therefor I don't know the rules you have to operate
under or if you have companies that can do this kind of overhauls.
"Manufacturers specifications" overhauls? IF your 'friendly' government
(no matter where) requires the engine to be overhauled to Manufacturers
specifications you don't have much choice. Here in the states, the only one
working on HS6as, that I'm aware of is Jill at M-14p inc. I've been told she
does mods, and I NOT sure if she does "zero time" overhauls. She monitors
this list, so she can answer those type questions, including prices. I
know Allen Barrett is planning to start looking at HS6a but is up to his ying
yang in work right now. I know absolutely nothing about overhaul shops in
China.
Lets assume you really want to go 25-60. I take it the engine has 300
hrs. since its manufacture or overhaul. Either way it was mostly likely
cleaned inside then.
First no matter what, I'd put an external oil filter on the exit line from
the oil pump to the cooler. A ten micron filter is best. This alone will
start to clean up you engine. Even if you stopped at that point and
continued with mineral oil, its better for the engine.
Second. Clean the cooler, tank, and lines.
Third. Remove all the rocker box covers. Clean and inspect and you can
check and reset valve clearances while you're at it.
Forth I would remove and clean the oil pump. This is a little more
involved than the above, but the advantage is that you would be able to inspect
the pump and get a good idea of how dirty the engine is. BTW this is a
messy job.
Fifth. I would remove and clean the oil sump from between #5 and #6
cylinders. A lot of crap resides there and when stuff starts breaking loose,
a
lot of it will come from there. While that's off, you might want to blast
off the paint and anodize the magnesium and then repaint. Magnesium
corrodes very fast. Again a messy job.
Six. Remove inspect and clean the screen for the prop governor on the
engine nose section. Of course the case screen should cleaned also.
If I remember correctly there were no special tools needed. Figure about
an hours or two of work to remove all the stuff to get to the oil pump and
the same for the sump. Cussing is a requirement.
Now what crap is left in the engine to brake loose is on the internal
surfaces of the case, gears, and the hard stuff in the piston rings.
Than I would consider moving over 25w-60.
If anyone has something to add or a better idea please do.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 9/27/2015 7:21:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
info@flyingwarbirds.com.au writes:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "JL2A" <info@flyingwarbirds.com.au>
Hey Jim - any more info on these overhauls - are they done according to
manufacturers specifications?
We have been getting our engines direct from China, $27k the last one in
2014. I was quoted $26,436 to overhaul my last timex - the cost of shipping
it back makes it easier to just get another sent out.
A little unsure on how to proceed with my barrel of multigrade! The engine
has around 300 hours of straight mineral oil on it, if I ultrasonic
cleaned the oil cooler, flushed the tank and replaced the hoses, I'm still left
with sludge in the case. I'm tipping that this will then get dislodged and
at best undo all my cleaning efforts, at worst ruin the engine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447471#447471
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Question |
Sounds to me like the best and most reasonable approach to an unreasonable task!
The thin aluminum wrench is a great idea- I once used a bicycle cone wrench similarly.
Doug Z
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 27, 2015, at 8:31 AM, Cpayne <cpayne@joimail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mounting the back plate is a slow and agonizing process, there is no way around
it, only different recovery techniques. An easy chair and cold beer is often
the reward after each nut is put on. Did I mention that it was a slow process?
>
> I use safety wire around each nut to position and start with a long handled screw
driver and a deft touch . Also a simple wrench made of .063" 0r .090" aluminum,
backed by a thin strip on the back can snug each nut. Final tightening
will be by a steel open-end, ground down to fit.
>
> Removing the 2-piece back plate is not something to do often. Mounting the first
half is not so bad as the second half plate.
>
> Craig Payne
>
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Question |
So I went into the parts catalog because it appeared there was another ring to
be removed, and I was right. It is called 'removable ring' in some illustrations
and is the ring the bolts that serve as the eccentric pivot for the gill go
into.
Removed it and was able to get the first half installed yesterday.
Previous owner had modified the backplate to be installable with the nuts installed
by filing down the inner lip and slotting the holes - takes some manipulation
but was able to get the first half on yesterday.
Will take some patience but should be able to wrap it up now.
'Gimp
--------
Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52
COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447483#447483
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding on the
tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and washer.)
The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or special technique
or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it took a 24 inch
Johnson bar to get the nuts off.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possibly damaged/crushed
the bearings. Was there a washer behind the nut and in front of the
cup? If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was over torqued; to take
up the space because of the missing washer.
Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an electronics freezing
spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest freon available at the
auto supply store.
Dennis
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com" <billvh@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding on the
tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and washer.)
> The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or special technique
or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it took a 24 inch
Johnson bar to get the nuts off.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I have but a short moment here but if the wheel and axle is the same as a
CJ I have a tool for removing it.
Please do not call me until Tuesday.
oug
On Sun, Sep 27, 2015 at 5:10 PM, A. Dennis Savarese <
dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
>
> Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possibly
> damaged/crushed the bearings. Was there a washer behind the nut and in
> front of the cup? If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was over
> torqued; to take up the space because of the missing washer.
> Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an
> electronics freezing spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest
> freon available at the auto supply store.
> Dennis
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com" <billvh@ca.rr.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding
> on the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and
> washer.)
> > The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or
> special technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it
> took a 24 inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The CJ tool is a bearing puller not a wheel puller unless I've read this incorrectly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447494#447494
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
anyone have an aftermarket source for the nipple that comes out of the CJ oil tank.
Looking for metric pipe thread to AN-12 flare.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447495#447495
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | metric to AN adapter -CJ |
Does anyone have a source for the nipple on the the CJ oil tank outlet. Looking
for metric pipe threat to AN-12
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447496#447496
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Go to a Parker hose dealer they can fix you up.
----- Original Message -----
From: "av8ter" <keithmckinley@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 6:47 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel
>
> anyone have an aftermarket source for the nipple that comes out of the CJ
> oil tank. Looking for metric pipe thread to AN-12 flare.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447495#447495
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Keith;
Seems to be two subjects here.
1. Yes, unless Doug has another tool for pulling the wheel, the puller is
for the outer (large) bearing only - after the wheel is off.
2. Pipe thread is pipe thread, same everywhere as far as I know. From
ancient British steam days. All you need is the correct size AN12 fitting.
Believe it is a 1" pipe but just a guess. Could check it out at the hangar
tomorrow and call you with the P/N if you give me a phone number.
Walt
-----Original Message-----
From: av8ter
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 6:47 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel
anyone have an aftermarket source for the nipple that comes out of the CJ
oil tank. Looking for metric pipe thread to AN-12 flare.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447495#447495
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Gary here. LAS. PIPE THREADS ARE THE SAME THE WORLD OVER. NO SUCH THING AS A METRIC
PIPE THREAD.
CJ. N22YK.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 27, 2015, at 19:47, Walter Lannon <wlannon@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>
> Keith;
>
> Seems to be two subjects here.
>
> 1. Yes, unless Doug has another tool for pulling the wheel, the puller is for
the outer (large) bearing only - after the wheel is off.
> 2. Pipe thread is pipe thread, same everywhere as far as I know. From ancient
British steam days. All you need is the correct size AN12 fitting. Believe
it is a 1" pipe but just a guess. Could check it out at the hangar tomorrow
and call you with the P/N if you give me a phone number.
>
> Walt
>
> -----Original Message----- From: av8ter
> Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 6:47 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel
>
>
> anyone have an aftermarket source for the nipple that comes out of the CJ oil
tank. Looking for metric pipe thread to AN-12 flare.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447495#447495
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
If you can pack the inside of the axel, the hollow portion with dry ice and k
eep it packed for about 2 hrs it may shrink the axel enough to allow you to p
ull the bearing off. I have had success using this procedure on quite a few t
hings.
Gary. CJ N22YK
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 27, 2015, at 17:20, doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have but a short moment here but if the wheel and axle is the same as a C
J I have a tool for removing it.
>
> Please do not call me until Tuesday.
>
> oug
>
>> On Sun, Sep 27, 2015 at 5:10 PM, A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellso
uth.net> wrote:
outh.net>
>>
>> Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possibl
y damaged/crushed the bearings. Was there a washer behind the nut and in fr
ont of the cup? If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was over torqued
; to take up the space because of the missing washer.
>> Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an electro
nics freezing spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest freon availa
ble at the auto supply store.
>> Dennis
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com" <billvh@ca.rr.com> wrot
e:
>> >
>> >
>> > Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding
on the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and wa
sher.)
>> > The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or spe
cial technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it took
a 24 inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?Yak-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> ==========
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|