---------------------------------------------------------- Yak-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 09/27/15: 15 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:20 AM - Re: Oil sludge (JL2A) 2. 08:35 AM - Re: Spinner Question (Cpayne) 3. 09:46 AM - Re: Re: Oil sludge (cjpilot710@aol.com) 4. 10:28 AM - Re: Re: Spinner Question (Pilotdog57) 5. 12:13 PM - Re: Spinner Question (AcroGimp) 6. 04:07 PM - Stuck wheel (billvh@ca.rr.com) 7. 05:13 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (A. Dennis Savarese) 8. 05:23 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (doug sapp) 9. 06:46 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (av8ter) 10. 06:50 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (av8ter) 11. 06:54 PM - metric to AN adapter -CJ (av8ter) 12. 07:03 PM - Re: Re: Stuck wheel (Frank Stelwagon) 13. 07:50 PM - Re: Re: Stuck wheel (Walter Lannon) 14. 09:31 PM - Re: Re: Stuck wheel (Gary Gabbard) 15. 11:25 PM - Re: Stuck wheel (Gary Gabbard) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:20:30 AM PST US Subject: Yak-List: Re: Oil sludge From: "JL2A" Hey Jim - any more info on these overhauls - are they done according to manufacturers specifications? We have been getting our engines direct from China, $27k the last one in 2014. I was quoted $26,436 to overhaul my last timex - the cost of shipping it back makes it easier to just get another sent out. A little unsure on how to proceed with my barrel of multigrade! The engine has around 300 hours of straight mineral oil on it, if I ultrasonic cleaned the oil cooler, flushed the tank and replaced the hoses, I'm still left with sludge in the case. I'm tipping that this will then get dislodged and at best undo all my cleaning efforts, at worst ruin the engine. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447471#447471 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:35:13 AM PST US From: Cpayne Subject: Yak-List: Re: Spinner Question Mounting the back plate is a slow and agonizing process, there is no way around it, only different recovery techniques. An easy chair and cold beer is often the reward after each nut is put on. Did I mention that it was a slow process? I use safety wire around each nut to position and start with a long handled screw driver and a deft touch . Also a simple wrench made of .063" 0r .090" aluminum, backed by a thin strip on the back can snug each nut. Final tightening will be by a steel open-end, ground down to fit. Removing the 2-piece back plate is not something to do often. Mounting the first half is not so bad as the second half plate. Craig Payne ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:46:17 AM PST US From: cjpilot710@aol.com Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Oil sludge JL2A, I see by your (com.au) address, you most likely not in the USA, and I'm assuming (Australia). Therefor I don't know the rules you have to operate under or if you have companies that can do this kind of overhauls. "Manufacturers specifications" overhauls? IF your 'friendly' government (no matter where) requires the engine to be overhauled to Manufacturers specifications you don't have much choice. Here in the states, the only one working on HS6as, that I'm aware of is Jill at M-14p inc. I've been told she does mods, and I NOT sure if she does "zero time" overhauls. She monitors this list, so she can answer those type questions, including prices. I know Allen Barrett is planning to start looking at HS6a but is up to his ying yang in work right now. I know absolutely nothing about overhaul shops in China. Lets assume you really want to go 25-60. I take it the engine has 300 hrs. since its manufacture or overhaul. Either way it was mostly likely cleaned inside then. First no matter what, I'd put an external oil filter on the exit line from the oil pump to the cooler. A ten micron filter is best. This alone will start to clean up you engine. Even if you stopped at that point and continued with mineral oil, its better for the engine. Second. Clean the cooler, tank, and lines. Third. Remove all the rocker box covers. Clean and inspect and you can check and reset valve clearances while you're at it. Forth I would remove and clean the oil pump. This is a little more involved than the above, but the advantage is that you would be able to inspect the pump and get a good idea of how dirty the engine is. BTW this is a messy job. Fifth. I would remove and clean the oil sump from between #5 and #6 cylinders. A lot of crap resides there and when stuff starts breaking loose, a lot of it will come from there. While that's off, you might want to blast off the paint and anodize the magnesium and then repaint. Magnesium corrodes very fast. Again a messy job. Six. Remove inspect and clean the screen for the prop governor on the engine nose section. Of course the case screen should cleaned also. If I remember correctly there were no special tools needed. Figure about an hours or two of work to remove all the stuff to get to the oil pump and the same for the sump. Cussing is a requirement. Now what crap is left in the engine to brake loose is on the internal surfaces of the case, gears, and the hard stuff in the piston rings. Than I would consider moving over 25w-60. If anyone has something to add or a better idea please do. Jim "Pappy" Goolsby In a message dated 9/27/2015 7:21:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, info@flyingwarbirds.com.au writes: --> Yak-List message posted by: "JL2A" Hey Jim - any more info on these overhauls - are they done according to manufacturers specifications? We have been getting our engines direct from China, $27k the last one in 2014. I was quoted $26,436 to overhaul my last timex - the cost of shipping it back makes it easier to just get another sent out. A little unsure on how to proceed with my barrel of multigrade! The engine has around 300 hours of straight mineral oil on it, if I ultrasonic cleaned the oil cooler, flushed the tank and replaced the hoses, I'm still left with sludge in the case. I'm tipping that this will then get dislodged and at best undo all my cleaning efforts, at worst ruin the engine. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447471#447471 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:28:53 AM PST US From: Pilotdog57 Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Spinner Question Sounds to me like the best and most reasonable approach to an unreasonable task! The thin aluminum wrench is a great idea- I once used a bicycle cone wrench similarly. Doug Z Sent from my iPad > On Sep 27, 2015, at 8:31 AM, Cpayne wrote: > > > Mounting the back plate is a slow and agonizing process, there is no way around it, only different recovery techniques. An easy chair and cold beer is often the reward after each nut is put on. Did I mention that it was a slow process? > > I use safety wire around each nut to position and start with a long handled screw driver and a deft touch . Also a simple wrench made of .063" 0r .090" aluminum, backed by a thin strip on the back can snug each nut. Final tightening will be by a steel open-end, ground down to fit. > > Removing the 2-piece back plate is not something to do often. Mounting the first half is not so bad as the second half plate. > > Craig Payne > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 12:13:41 PM PST US Subject: Yak-List: Re: Spinner Question From: "AcroGimp" So I went into the parts catalog because it appeared there was another ring to be removed, and I was right. It is called 'removable ring' in some illustrations and is the ring the bolts that serve as the eccentric pivot for the gill go into. Removed it and was able to get the first half installed yesterday. Previous owner had modified the backplate to be installable with the nuts installed by filing down the inner lip and slotting the holes - takes some manipulation but was able to get the first half on yesterday. Will take some patience but should be able to wrap it up now. 'Gimp -------- Owner/Pilot N6209F 1987 Yak-52 COMM/ASEL/IFR/HP-Complex/TW Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447483#447483 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 04:07:42 PM PST US Subject: Yak-List: Stuck wheel From: "billvh@ca.rr.com" Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding on the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and washer.) The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or special technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it took a 24 inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:21 PM PST US Subject: Re: Yak-List: Stuck wheel From: "A. Dennis Savarese" Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possibly damaged/crushed the bearings. Was there a washer behind the nut and in front of the cup? If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was over torqued; to take up the space because of the missing washer. Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an electronics freezing spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest freon available at the auto supply store. Dennis Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com" wrote: > > > Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding on the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and washer.) > The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or special technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it took a 24 inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:23:50 PM PST US Subject: Re: Yak-List: Stuck wheel From: doug sapp I have but a short moment here but if the wheel and axle is the same as a CJ I have a tool for removing it. Please do not call me until Tuesday. oug On Sun, Sep 27, 2015 at 5:10 PM, A. Dennis Savarese < dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote: > dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> > > Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possibly > damaged/crushed the bearings. Was there a washer behind the nut and in > front of the cup? If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was over > torqued; to take up the space because of the missing washer. > Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an > electronics freezing spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest > freon available at the auto supply store. > Dennis > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com" > wrote: > > > > > > Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding > on the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and > washer.) > > The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or > special technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it > took a 24 inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off. > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:46:23 PM PST US Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel From: "av8ter" The CJ tool is a bearing puller not a wheel puller unless I've read this incorrectly Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447494#447494 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:50:46 PM PST US Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel From: "av8ter" anyone have an aftermarket source for the nipple that comes out of the CJ oil tank. Looking for metric pipe thread to AN-12 flare. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447495#447495 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:54:25 PM PST US Subject: Yak-List: metric to AN adapter -CJ From: "av8ter" Does anyone have a source for the nipple on the the CJ oil tank outlet. Looking for metric pipe threat to AN-12 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447496#447496 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:03:58 PM PST US From: "Frank Stelwagon" Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel Go to a Parker hose dealer they can fix you up. ----- Original Message ----- From: "av8ter" Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 6:47 PM Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel > > anyone have an aftermarket source for the nipple that comes out of the CJ > oil tank. Looking for metric pipe thread to AN-12 flare. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447495#447495 > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:50:27 PM PST US From: "Walter Lannon" Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel Keith; Seems to be two subjects here. 1. Yes, unless Doug has another tool for pulling the wheel, the puller is for the outer (large) bearing only - after the wheel is off. 2. Pipe thread is pipe thread, same everywhere as far as I know. From ancient British steam days. All you need is the correct size AN12 fitting. Believe it is a 1" pipe but just a guess. Could check it out at the hangar tomorrow and call you with the P/N if you give me a phone number. Walt -----Original Message----- From: av8ter Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 6:47 PM Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel anyone have an aftermarket source for the nipple that comes out of the CJ oil tank. Looking for metric pipe thread to AN-12 flare. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447495#447495 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:31:59 PM PST US From: Gary Gabbard Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel Gary here. LAS. PIPE THREADS ARE THE SAME THE WORLD OVER. NO SUCH THING AS A METRIC PIPE THREAD. CJ. N22YK. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 27, 2015, at 19:47, Walter Lannon wrote: > > > Keith; > > Seems to be two subjects here. > > 1. Yes, unless Doug has another tool for pulling the wheel, the puller is for the outer (large) bearing only - after the wheel is off. > 2. Pipe thread is pipe thread, same everywhere as far as I know. From ancient British steam days. All you need is the correct size AN12 fitting. Believe it is a 1" pipe but just a guess. Could check it out at the hangar tomorrow and call you with the P/N if you give me a phone number. > > Walt > > -----Original Message----- From: av8ter > Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 6:47 PM > To: yak-list@matronics.com > Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel > > > anyone have an aftermarket source for the nipple that comes out of the CJ oil tank. Looking for metric pipe thread to AN-12 flare. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447495#447495 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 11:25:49 PM PST US From: Gary Gabbard Subject: Re: Yak-List: Stuck wheel If you can pack the inside of the axel, the hollow portion with dry ice and k eep it packed for about 2 hrs it may shrink the axel enough to allow you to p ull the bearing off. I have had success using this procedure on quite a few t hings. Gary. CJ N22YK Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 27, 2015, at 17:20, doug sapp wrote: > > I have but a short moment here but if the wheel and axle is the same as a C J I have a tool for removing it. > > Please do not call me until Tuesday. > > oug > >> On Sun, Sep 27, 2015 at 5:10 PM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote: outh.net> >> >> Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possibl y damaged/crushed the bearings. Was there a washer behind the nut and in fr ont of the cup? If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was over torqued ; to take up the space because of the missing washer. >> Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an electro nics freezing spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest freon availa ble at the auto supply store. >> Dennis >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> > On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com" wrot e: >> > >> > >> > Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding on the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and wa sher.) >> > The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or spe cial technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it took a 24 inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off. >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > Read this topic online here: >> > >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489 >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> ========== >> List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig ator?Yak-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio n >> ========== > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message yak-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Yak-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/yak-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/yak-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.