Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:25 AM - Compressor Couplings (George S. Coy)
2. 08:11 AM - Re: Stuck wheel (billvh@ca.rr.com)
3. 08:20 AM - Re: Re: Stuck wheel (A. Dennis Savarese)
4. 08:25 AM - Re: Re: Stuck wheel (Phil Salter)
5. 07:21 PM - Yak 55M - Airspeeds for safe opening of canopy (Royden Heays)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Compressor Couplings |
Some information on air compressor shear couplings:
The original shear pins are made from 12Cr18Ni10T (Russian alloy). It is a
stainless steel similar with 321 (USA alloy). During the manufacturing
process a coupling from each batch is shear tested. The shear torque has to
be 15 Kgf-m (108 lbf-ft) for couplings with pins with 3 millimeters on
diameter (first serial engines) and 22Kgf-m (159 lbf-ft) for couplings with
pins with 3.5 millimeters on diameter (second serial engines).
We strongly recommend using pins from the genuine steel or equivalents
according to STAHLSLUSSEL catalogue.
If during start or shut down, the engine runs for few revolutions backward
then important dynamic stress occurs and it is possible shearing the pins
(the purpose of this shear coupling is to protect the engine gears). If the
start and the shutdown of the engine are normal then the main cause is the
too high temperature of the cylinder of the compressor during the flight or
the too high temperature of the oil (the compressor is lubricated under
pressure from the oil system of the engine). It is necessary to check the
cooling system of the compressor and the cooling system of the oil. It is
recommended also to replace with a new one the fabric air filter of the air
compressor.
George Coy
CAS Ltd.
629 Airport Rd.
Swanton VT 05488 USA
802-868-5633 off
802-363-5782 cell
802-868-6632 Fax
<mailto:george.coy@gmail.com> george.coy@gmail.com
<http://coyacft.com/> http://coyacft.com/
SKYPE george.coy
Message 2
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Thanks Dennis. CRC makes a product called freeze and lube or something like that
which I tried but was unable to get the axle cold enough to do the trick. And
there was a double tang thick washer under the wheel nut. I have no idea why
the folks at Termikas would tighten the nut to that extreme. My next move is
what Gary CJ N22YK suggested. It was going to be my next try but I thought I
might get something off the list first.
Bill
dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
> Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possibly damaged/crushed
the bearings. Was there a washer behind the nut and in front of
the cup? If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was over torqued; to take
up the space because of the missing washer.
> Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an electronics
freezing spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest freon available at
the auto supply store.
> Dennis
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> > On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com" wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of pounding on
the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and washer.)
> > The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or special
technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it took a 24
inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447504#447504
Message 3
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You may try freezing the bearing too.Dennis
From: "billvh@ca.rr.com" <billvh@ca.rr.com>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 10:08 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel
Thanks Dennis. CRC makes a product called freeze and lube or something like
that which I tried but was unable to get the axle cold enough to do the tr
ick. And there was a double tang thick washer under the wheel nut. I have n
o idea why the folks at Termikas would tighten the nut to that extreme. My
next move is what Gary=C2- CJ N22YK suggested. It was going to be my next
try but I thought I might get something off the list first.
Bill
dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
> Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possibl
y damaged/crushed the bearings.=C2- Was there a washer behind the nut and
in front of the cup?=C2- If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was
over torqued; to take up the space because of the missing washer.
> Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an electro
nics freezing spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest freon avail
able at the auto supply store.
> Dennis
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> >=C2- On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com"=C2- wrote:
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2- Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of po
unding on the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts
and washer.)
> >=C2- The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick
or special technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW
it took a 24 inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off.
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2- Read this topic online here:
> >=C2-
> >=C2- http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >=C2-
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447504#447504
S -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
Message 4
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Securities offered through Summit Brokerage Services Inc., Member FINRA, SIP
C. Advisory services offered through Summit Financial Group Inc., a Register
ed Investment Advisor.
Sent from my IPad.
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 10:17 AM, A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.
net> wrote:
>
> You may try freezing the bearing too.
> Dennis
>
> From: "billvh@ca.rr.com" <billvh@ca.rr.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 10:08 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Stuck wheel
>
>
> Thanks Dennis. CRC makes a product called freeze and lube or something lik
e that which I tried but was unable to get the axle cold enough to do the tr
ick. And there was a double tang thick washer under the wheel nut. I have no
idea why the folks at Termikas would tighten the nut to that extreme. My ne
xt move is what Gary CJ N22YK suggested. It was going to be my next try but
I thought I might get something off the list first.
> Bill
>
>
> dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
> > Sounds like someone seriously over torqued the wheel nut and very possib
ly damaged/crushed the bearings. Was there a washer behind the nut and in f
ront of the cup? If not, that is probably why the wheel nut was over torque
d; to take up the space because of the missing washer.
> > Try spraying the bearing with freezing type spray. You may try an electr
onics freezing spray or you could even try a can of the cheapest freon avail
able at the auto supply store.
> > Dennis
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >
> > > On Sep 27, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "billvh@ca.rr.com" wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Trying to get the wheels off a 50 I'm working on. No amount of poundi
ng on the tire will get either wheel to budge. (Yes I took off the nuts and w
asher.)
> > > The backing plate is too thin to pry against. Anyone got a trick or s
pecial technique or tool to get the bearing to let go of the axle? BTW it to
ok a 24 inch Johnson bar to get the nuts off.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447489#447489
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447504#447504k-List" target=
"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-Listhttp://forums.mat
&nbs//www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http:/
/www.matronics.co=================
>
>
>
>
>
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>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Yak 55M - Airspeeds for safe opening of canopy |
For the Yak 55M, does anyone have the airspeed below which it is safe to
open the canopy without damaging it?
There are two canopy open positions. One around 6 inches open and another
fully open for entry and egress to/from the cockpit.
Perhaps there are two airspeeds, one for 6" open and another for fully open?
Does anyone have experience with flying canopy open that they are prepared
to share? Comments welcome on cockpit air turbulence, through cockpit
airflow and pressure. Did your maps get sucked out, for example?
Royden Heays,
Vancouver, Canada
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