Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:40 AM - Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Re: First time buyer of a Yak 52 or Nanch... (cjpilot710@aol.com)
2. 10:02 AM - Oil leak (Yakman)
3. 10:34 AM - Re: CJ Wobble- No Pressure/Check Valve (Harv)
4. 10:38 AM - CJ6 canopy cover wanted (Harv)
5. 11:00 AM - Re: CJ6 canopy cover wanted (Justin Drafts)
6. 11:07 AM - Re: CJ6 canopy cover wanted (Frank Stelwagon)
7. 11:34 AM - Re: Oil leak (cjpilot710@aol.com)
8. 12:52 PM - Re: Cockpit labels (jblake207@comcast.net)
9. 01:00 PM - Re: Oil leak (Vic)
10. 04:40 PM - Re: Oil leak (Roger Kemp)
11. 04:53 PM - Re: Oil leak (Roger Kemp)
12. 06:54 PM - Re: Re: CJ Wobble- No Pressure/Check Valve (Hank Gibson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: First time buyer of a Yak 52 or |
Nanch...
Well I have two T-34 confirmed kills (They were hunting me). Plus a very
public confirmed on a Yak-52 (the wingman of an attacking CJ). Another
kill on a CJ being flown by a Navy fighter pilot (he started it) . And of
course a forgettable number of ER trainers (un be known est to them).
I have to admit, I had my tail dusted, by an RV-8 a month ago. But the
pilot was definitely top of the line.
"Always fight to the other guy's weakness" Some body famous.
:-)
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 12/29/2015 3:08:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
mark.bitterlich@navy.mil writes:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD"
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
You're right about every single thing except kicking ass in the CJ-6A.
Of course you might be talking about taking on a Cessna 150, in which case
it would be a close contest, but I think you'd win!
Happy New Year Old Man!
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjpilot710@aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 12:26 AM
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Yak-List: Re: First time buyer of a Yak 52
or Nanchang CJ-6
I love this bickering about airplanes!!! For those guys who learn to fly
in the T-34 - - - well you know the old saying "No matter how ugly, your
first lover is always the one you thought the most beautiful". Its' cockpit
is to big. You tend to rattle around in it. To this day I love the Champ.
ALL VERSION of it. And I love the B-24 and think the B-17 over rated.
And I love the Storch! Shit I just don't enough time for all the
airplanes I love. I don't love a 51. I don't love the B25, - - - to hard to
pull
the props though. I loved the 777 and 747SP. I didn't love the 767-100
(piece of crap), but her big sister 767-300 was the one airplane I could
grease on no matter what! I love the 747-400- - - -had great bunks! I always
wanted to fly a Connie, and a DC6. I got to familiar with a DC-3, but a
Loadmaster would be interesting.
Well here is to a great New Year fellow listers. May your airplane dreams
come true.
"Oh give me a CJ-6 A.
And send me into the fray
With guns and panache
I'll kick any ass!
Yes give me a CJ-6 A "
;-)
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 12/27/2015 2:36:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
dabear@damned.org writes:
Remember to fly in both the stock CJ6 and one with an M14p upgrade. They
are different
Randy DeVere
> On Dec 27, 2015, at 11:49, skyjockey <mixxalot@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks guys, great tips. I am looking to buy a place next year and my
plane in same time period. Since I scuba dive Florida is great place for that
if you can handle the humidity and bugs and dodge the many tstorms. For
aircraft purchase, I still need to experience a CJ and T34. Another option is
a Yak 52TW or Yak52 with extended fuel tanks for longer range.
>
> --------
> warbird and lover of all things that go fast and upside down!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451435#451435
>
>
> ========================; nbsp; (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find
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Message 2
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Morning everyone. Happy new year to you all.
My 18t appears to have developed an oil leak. I arrived at the hangar to find oil
dripping from the bottom of the cowl, not a big leak but it's never done this
in the 5 years I've owned it. Rather
than reinventing the wheel, are there some common areas I should
look first? Oil pressure is normal and it certainly doesn't squirt
out when I start it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451516#451516
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Wobble- No Pressure/Check Valve |
I have similar symptoms if the fuel in the aircraft is low and aircraft is not
parked on level ground and remains un-run for a few weeks. The primer will always
draw up fuel but the wobble pump can fail to pump any pressure on the fuel
gauge prior to start (which is then hard work until the engine pump stucks up
fuel).
I'm assuming the check valve you mentioned is bad??
Anyone?
Looks to be a simple fix if that valve does need replacement, but would like to
know if the fuel requires draining first.
Rgs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451518#451518
Message 4
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| Subject: | CJ6 canopy cover wanted |
Hi Chaps
Does anyone have a decent full canopy cover with strap attachment method for sale
that fits a CJ-6?
TIA and a Happy New Years flying :D
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451519#451519
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: CJ6 canopy cover wanted |
I picked up a great one from Bruce's Custom Covers...
Justin/N280NC
On Dec 30, 2015 9:41 AM, "Harv" <martin.harvey@kbr.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Chaps
>
> Does anyone have a decent full canopy cover with strap attachment method
> for sale that fits a CJ-6?
>
> TIA and a Happy New Years flying :D
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451519#451519
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: CJ6 canopy cover wanted |
Try Bruce's Custom Covers, their covers fit and are great quality. One additional
point I received flyer in the mail that their building is for sale, so they
may be quitting.
Frank
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 30, 2015, at 10:35, "Harv" <martin.harvey@kbr.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Chaps
>
> Does anyone have a decent full canopy cover with strap attachment method for
sale that fits a CJ-6?
>
> TIA and a Happy New Years flying :D
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451519#451519
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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The first questions to ask.
1.How long was the airplane sitting?
2.If the oil was just coming off the cowling, where inside the cowling was
it coming from?
An airplane that sits for a long time can have oil fillup up inside the
engine because gravity is slowly draining it out of the tank, which sits
higher that the engine sump. When the sump fills up, the oil "spills over"
into the #5 & #6 cylinders. If the exhaust valve happen to be open, enough
oil can flow into the exhaust system. When you pull the prop though before
starting, and oil comes out of the exhaust stacks, this is what's happened.
(Note: There is a check valve in the oil pump that is suppose to keep oil
from flowing into the engine from the tank. It often does not do so.).
This is the reason you can get a "hydraulic lock" in those bottom cylinders
and thus the importance of pulling the prop though before starting.
Also oil just dripping out of the cowling, could be the accumulation a
number of small oil leaks. Hence they flow off the engine from various
places, on to the inside of the cowling, then to the floor. You can have leaks
from push rod tubes, rocker box covers (18 of them), any of the gaskets of
the various bolt on units.
The best (for me anyway) way catch leaks, is to remove the cowling. Clean
the engine and I mean REALLY CLEAN. There are many different ways of
doing this however what I do, is mix liquid GUNK with thinner - (1/4 GUNK) and
spray it on the engine with a good sprayer. Higher pressure will knock of
the heaver crap. You might a stiff narrow brush to get rid of some stains.
Let sit 15 minutes than wash off with water. (It will not kill your
grass). Let the engine dry off. Then run it a good 5 minutes, do a quick power
check, and then shut down. Then look for leaks. Check particularly
around the base of the engine where the oil sump attaches. If you find oil
leaks simply tighten up the nuts first. Some places you may need to replace
gaskets. WARNING; If you find oil leaks at the very base of the push rod
tubes, DO NOT try to replace the "O" rings underneath where the housing is
bolted to the case. Simply tighten the 2 nuts AND LET IT BE.
That about it. Others on this list can add to this I am sure.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 12/30/2015 1:02:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Andrew.park@xtra.co.nz writes:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Yakman" <Andrew.park@xtra.co.nz>
Morning everyone. Happy new year to you all.
My 18t appears to have developed an oil leak. I arrived at the hangar to
find oil dripping from the bottom of the cowl, not a big leak but it's never
done this in the 5 years I've owned it. Rather
than reinventing the wheel, are there some common areas I should
look first? Oil pressure is normal and it certainly doesn't squirt
out when I start it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451516#451516
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cockpit labels |
Walt Lannon, please contact me off list.=C2- JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Stelwagon" <pfstelwagon@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 6:07:46 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Cockpit labels
Walt Lannon on this list.
Frank
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 28, 2015, at 14:14, "Caseyrosz" <Caseyrosz@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> A few years back I recall seeing an English instrument label kit for a ya
k 52.
> I have looked but I can not find it. Does anyone here know where I can fi
nd
> That kit.
>
> Thanks,
> Casey
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451458#451458
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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MS -
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e -
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Message 9
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Hi,
maybe you want to check the small tap on the oil tank between the bottom cylinders.
You will have to lap the taper with very fine grit to seal it. But certainly
there are quite a few other places that can leak. Clean all places and check
in short intervals for fresh leaks. Oil can travel long distances in time so
look often.
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451528#451528
Message 10
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First question, where are you seeing oil pooled? Are Intake drains installed?
Are the intake and exhaust collars tight? Hoses all tight? Any breaks in fabric
wraps on the lines? Any oil around oil pressure sending unit on the firewall?
The small oil pressure fabric covered hose from the transducer to the oil pump
is somewhat ignored on occasion when the hoses have been replaced so it maybe
more worn. The lines to the oil cooler in the wing root is likewise. Also welds
on the capillaries in the oil cooler can break with wear and tear. Rare but
can as well as gelling the oil in 0 degree weather can blow the cooler if the
bypass valve fails. That generally makes a Hugh oil pool on the ramp or hanger
floor when that happens though. Some a/c have had them removed.
So it is back to the first question. Where are you seeing oil pooled under the
A/C? Having the prop positioned just right on the the #6 cylinder mostly but 5
&7 can leak oil also if the a/c has sat for a week especially if the shut off
valve in the oil pump is slugged. Lastly the tank can spring a leak from the
seams as well as the seams on the air oil separated can wear and leak. Granted
this is rare too.
Don't overlook your inverted oil return hoses also.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 30, 2015, at 11:59 AM, Yakman <Andrew.park@xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>
>
> Morning everyone. Happy new year to you all.
>
> My 18t appears to have developed an oil leak. I arrived at the hangar to find
oil dripping from the bottom of the cowl, not a big leak but it's never done
this in the 5 years I've owned it. Rather
> than reinventing the wheel, are there some common areas I should
> look first? Oil pressure is normal and it certainly doesn't squirt
> out when I start it.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451516#451516
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Wish I had seen your post before I did my post. Excellent summary. Was not g
oing to address the push rod boots. They do not want to go there unless they
have a split boot.
Rare. Also the crush washers on the rocker arm axle can be a pesky source bu
t not a source of a big pool on the floor though. If the valve covers were p
ulled and the seal not seated well when the cover was replaced can be a lea
k source too.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 30, 2015, at 1:32 PM, cjpilot710@aol.com wrote:
>
> The first questions to ask.
> 1.How long was the airplane sitting?
> 2.If the oil was just coming off the cowling, where inside the cowling was
it coming from?
>
> An airplane that sits for a long time can have oil fillup up inside the en
gine because gravity is slowly draining it out of the tank, which sits highe
r that the engine sump. When the sump fills up, the oil "spills over" into t
he #5 & #6 cylinders. If the exhaust valve happen to be open, enough oil ca
n flow into the exhaust system. When you pull the prop though before starti
ng, and oil comes out of the exhaust stacks, this is what's happened. (Note
: There is a check valve in the oil pump that is suppose to keep oil from fl
owing into the engine from the tank. It often does not do so.). This is th
e reason you can get a "hydraulic lock" in those bottom cylinders and thus t
he importance of pulling the prop though before starting.
>
> Also oil just dripping out of the cowling, could be the accumulation a num
ber of small oil leaks. Hence they flow off the engine from various places,
on to the inside of the cowling, then to the floor. You can have leaks fro
m push rod tubes, rocker box covers (18 of them), any of the gaskets of the v
arious bolt on units.
>
> The best (for me anyway) way catch leaks, is to remove the cowling. Clean
the engine and I mean REALLY CLEAN. There are many different ways of doing
this however what I do, is mix liquid GUNK with thinner - (1/4 GUNK) and sp
ray it on the engine with a good sprayer. Higher pressure will knock of the
heaver crap. You might a stiff narrow brush to get rid of some stains. Let
sit 15 minutes than wash off with water. (It will not kill your grass). L
et the engine dry off. Then run it a good 5 minutes, do a quick power check
, and then shut down. Then look for leaks. Check particularly around the b
ase of the engine where the oil sump attaches. If you find oil leaks simply
tighten up the nuts first. Some places you may need to replace gaskets. W
ARNING; If you find oil leaks at the very base of the push rod tubes, DO NO
T try to replace the "O" rings underneath where the housing is bolted to the
case. Simply tighten the 2 nuts AND LET IT BE.
>
> That about it. Others on this list can add to this I am sure.
>
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
>
>
> In a message dated 12/30/2015 1:02:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Andrew.p
ark@xtra.co.nz writes:
>
> Morning everyone. Happy new year to you all.
>
> My 18t appears to have developed an oil leak. I arrived at the hangar to f
ind oil dripping from the bottom of the cowl, not a big leak but it's never d
one this in the 5 years I've owned it. Rather
> than reinventing the wheel, are there some common areas I should
> look first? Oil pressure is normal and it certainly doesn't squirt
> out when I start it.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451516#451516=====
==========================
===============
> _nbsp; (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find Gifts nbsp; List k y
ou for p; -Matt Dralle, List =========
=============== e ties Day =======
==========================
=============== - MATRONICS WEB FO
RUMS ========================
========================
- List Contribution Web Site sp; ====
==========================
====================
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Wobble- No Pressure/Check Valve |
Harv-
pulled both wobble pump and check valve and drained all fuel out of aircraf
t.=C2- Wobble Pump and stock Check valve are fine.=C2- Blew air through
all lines and some fuel came out of fuel vent in the belly;=C2- I have t
he long-range bladder mod and somehow fuel is getting into my vent lines so
metimes.=C2- Put it all back together, refilled gas and had to open gasco
lator on the firewall while pumping the wobble to get fuel flowing/siphonin
g up to the engine.=C2- All good now but need to troubleshoot why fuel is
getting into my vent lines.=C2- Several times in the past I have had a s
mall vacuum at one of the tanks that is not relieved until opening the cap
at the bladder.=C2- Fuel flow and tank shutoffs worked in the past but th
is is concerning...I have the vent line loop with check valve in the cockpi
t which is supposed to prevent that I thought.=C2- Airplane is flown fair
ly regularly and had just flown before this latest issue.=C2- Any ideas a
re appreciated.
Happy New Year Comrades - Hoot
=C2-Hank Gibson
904-738-3240 Mobile
904-213-1760 Home
hank@affordablewarbird.com
hkgibby@yahoo.com
hank.gibson@fnf.com=C2-
On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 1:43 PM, Harv <martin.harvey@kbr.com> w
rote:
I have similar symptoms if the fuel in the aircraft is low and aircraft is
not parked on level ground and remains un-run for a few weeks. The primer w
ill always draw up fuel but the wobble pump can fail to pump any pressure o
n the fuel gauge prior to start (which is then hard work until the engine p
ump stucks up fuel).
I'm assuming the check valve you mentioned is bad??
Anyone?
Looks to be a simple fix if that valve does need replacement, but would lik
e to know if the fuel requires draining first.
Rgs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=451518#451518
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
S -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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