Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:47 AM - [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues (Lancer)
2. 04:57 AM - Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues (A. Dennis Savarese)
3. 01:54 PM - [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues (Lancer)
4. 04:24 PM - Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues (A. Dennis Savarese)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues |
Obviously there are some of you not getting good plug life. I can't comment on
the M14P as my experience has only been with the HS6-A and the factory Chinese
plugs.
The aircraft I referred to has been regularly flown over the 13 years that I have
been flying it and it has been flown by a number of different pilots and conducting
Adventure Flights up until recently when I purchased it. In the 13 years
it has seen 2 engines which had their own plugs so the plugs have not had
any more than 600hrs on them but were still serviceable upon the engine removal.
I asked our full time engineer if he had ever replaced a plug in his time servicing
the aircraft and he had only ever cleaned and replaced them.
Each service the plugs were removed, bead blasted clean, pressure tested and refitted
to the engine. Over the years I have had to remove the odd bottom plug
as it was fouled but after a clean and test was replaced and worked fine.
A friend recently purchased a CJ and it had the Mo Plug conversion and I couldn't
see the point after my experience with my aircraft. He also owns another CJ
which is running std plugs and bought a set of spare plugs for it not long after
he bought the aircraft and has not needed to use them after 2 1/2 years flying.
I don't know if the Russian plugs are not as reliable as the Japanese plugs but
I'd be surprised if there was any real difference as they both share a lot of
common technology.
Those who have had plug problems, Have you been blasting and pressure testing the
plugs when servicing the engine or have you been cleaning them some other way
or not cleaning them at all??
I couldn't agree more about binning dropped plugs......If you drop it you then
drop it in the bin!!
Regards,
Lance
--------
You can run but you can't hide
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455750#455750
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues |
The automotive conversion kit was designed to eliminate the problems inhere
nt with aging wiring harnesses.=C2- Not the spark plugs, as I explained p
reviously.=C2- However, when we do replace the wiring harness with the hi
gh tech wires, we get to use automotive spark plugs which gives us an enorm
ous number of options, including heat ranges.=C2- The Russian and Chinese
spark plugs are a "cold" plug.=C2- All you have to do is look at the plu
g when it is removed and you can see that it is a cold plug.
One of the benefits of the automotive spark plug is flexibility, to include
heat ranges.=C2- If you understand how to "read" what a spark plug is sh
owing when it is removed, you will see by looking at the insulator that the
automotive spark plugs are burning the air/fuel charge much more efficient
ly.=C2- More efficient combustion allows the engine to develop more power
, which many have reported after installing the conversion.=C2- This may
help.https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-
read-a-spark-plug
Here's another good one.=C2- Look at photo #7 which looks a lot like what
the Russian and Chinese plugs look like when removed.=C2- Then read the
description.http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/reading-spark-plug-color.html
Dennis
From: Lancer <lrob4783@bigpond.net.au>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 6:47 AM
Subject: Yak-List: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues
Obviously there are some of you not getting good plug life. I can't comment
on the M14P as my experience has only been with the HS6-A and the factory
Chinese plugs.
The aircraft I referred to has been regularly flown over the 13 years that
I have been flying it and it has been flown by a number of different pilots
and conducting Adventure Flights up until recently when I purchased it. In
the 13 years it has seen 2 engines which had their own plugs so the plugs
have not had any more than 600hrs on them but were still serviceable upon t
he engine removal. I asked our full time engineer if he had ever replaced a
plug in his time servicing the aircraft and he had only ever cleaned and r
eplaced them.
Each service the plugs were removed, bead blasted clean, pressure tested an
d refitted to the engine. Over the years I have had to remove the odd botto
m plug as it was fouled but after a clean and test was replaced and worked
fine.
A friend recently purchased a CJ and it had the Mo Plug conversion and I co
uldn't see the point after my experience with my aircraft. He also owns ano
ther CJ which is running std plugs and bought a set of spare plugs for it n
ot long after he bought the aircraft and has not needed to use them after 2
1/2 years flying.
I don't know if the Russian plugs are not as reliable as the Japanese plugs
but I'd be surprised if there was any real difference as they both share a
lot of common technology.
Those who have had plug problems, Have you been blasting and pressure testi
ng the plugs when servicing the engine or have you been cleaning them some
other way or not cleaning them at all??
I couldn't agree more about binning dropped plugs......If you drop it you t
hen drop it in the bin!!
Regards,
Lance
--------
You can run but you can't hide
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455750#455750
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues |
dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
> The automotive conversion kit was designed to eliminate the problems inherent
with aging wiring harnesses. Not the spark plugs, as I explained previously.
However, when we do replace the wiring harness with the high tech wires, we get
to use automotive spark plugs which gives us an enormous number of options,
including heat ranges. The Russian and Chinese spark plugs are a "cold" plug.
All you have to do is look at the plug when it is removed and you can see that
it is a cold plug.
>
>
>
> One of the benefits of the automotive spark plug is flexibility, to include heat
ranges. If you understand how to "read" what a spark plug is showing when
it is removed, you will see by looking at the insulator that the automotive spark
plugs are burning the air/fuel charge much more efficiently. More efficient
combustion allows the engine to develop more power, which many have reported
after installing the conversion. This may help.
> https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug (https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug)
>
>
>
> Here's another good one. Look at photo #7 which looks a lot like what the Russian
and Chinese plugs look like when removed. Then read the description.
> http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/reading-spark-plug-color.html (http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/reading-spark-plug-color.html)
>
>
>
> Dennis
>
>
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the reply and for pointing out the reasoning behind the modification,
but wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper to simply replace the offending
wiring and if there was a plug or two which was causing trouble to simply replace
the failed components rather than the whole system.....
I understand the advantage of having access to different heat range plugs but when
I pull the top plugs they come out looking great providing the engine doesn't
sit idling too long in full rich (my aircraft is located 1560' AMSL)
The bottom plugs living in a nice oily cylinder always suffer more than the dry
plugs located at the top but are easily cleaned and put back into reliable service
if and when needed.
Regards,
Lance
--------
You can run but you can't hide
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455770#455770
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues |
Have you ever tried pulling a wire through that wire loom? The only way to do
it is to connect the old wire to the new wire. THEN pray they don't come apart
inside the ring. Then when another wire goes bad, you go through the same process
again. If you ever experience the problem, I think you just may consider
doing the conversion.
There are just too many benefits to not simply replace the entire wiring harness.
I won't dispute what you're seeing on your plugs.
Dennis
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 2, 2016, at 4:53 PM, Lancer <lrob4783@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
>
>
> dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
>> The automotive conversion kit was designed to eliminate the problems inherent
with aging wiring harnesses. Not the spark plugs, as I explained previously.
However, when we do replace the wiring harness with the high tech wires, we
get to use automotive spark plugs which gives us an enormous number of options,
including heat ranges. The Russian and Chinese spark plugs are a "cold" plug.
All you have to do is look at the plug when it is removed and you can see that
it is a cold plug.
>>
>>
>>
>> One of the benefits of the automotive spark plug is flexibility, to include
heat ranges. If you understand how to "read" what a spark plug is showing when
it is removed, you will see by looking at the insulator that the automotive
spark plugs are burning the air/fuel charge much more efficiently. More efficient
combustion allows the engine to develop more power, which many have reported
after installing the conversion. This may help.
>> https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug (https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug)
>>
>>
>>
>> Here's another good one. Look at photo #7 which looks a lot like what the Russian
and Chinese plugs look like when removed. Then read the description.
>> http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/reading-spark-plug-color.html (http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/reading-spark-plug-color.html)
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis
>
>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> Thanks for the reply and for pointing out the reasoning behind the modification,
but wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper to simply replace the offending
wiring and if there was a plug or two which was causing trouble to simply replace
the failed components rather than the whole system.....
>
> I understand the advantage of having access to different heat range plugs but
when I pull the top plugs they come out looking great providing the engine doesn't
sit idling too long in full rich (my aircraft is located 1560' AMSL)
>
> The bottom plugs living in a nice oily cylinder always suffer more than the dry
plugs located at the top but are easily cleaned and put back into reliable
service if and when needed.
>
> Regards,
>
> Lance
>
> --------
> You can run but you can't hide
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455770#455770
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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