Today's Message Index:
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1. 11:19 AM - Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues (George S. Coy)
2. 03:54 PM - [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues (Lancer)
3. 05:28 PM - Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues (A. Dennis Savarese)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues |
Dennis forgot to mention that the original Russian black rubber insulated wire
is difficult to find and usually the rubber is old and not worth doing. The main
source for a silicone insulated 5mm wire that we were supplying as a replacement
for years stopped making it several years ago.
This is on top of the difficulty installing it he mentioned. For the last several
years, the Motorstar factory only supplies engines with Dennis's ignition system.
It has been accepted by most airworthiness authorities including Russia.
George Coy
MotorstarNA
714 Airport Rd.
Swanton VT 05488
802-868-5633 off
802-363-5782 cell
802-868-6632 Fax
george.coy@gmail.com
http://motorstarna.com/
SKYPE george.coy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues
--> <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
Have you ever tried pulling a wire through that wire loom? The only way to do
it is to connect the old wire to the new wire. THEN pray they don't come apart
inside the ring. Then when another wire goes bad, you go through the same process
again. If you ever experience the problem, I think you just may consider
doing the conversion.
There are just too many benefits to not simply replace the entire wiring harness.
I won't dispute what you're seeing on your plugs.
Dennis
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 2, 2016, at 4:53 PM, Lancer <lrob4783@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
>
>
> dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote:
>> The automotive conversion kit was designed to eliminate the problems inherent
with aging wiring harnesses. Not the spark plugs, as I explained previously.
However, when we do replace the wiring harness with the high tech wires, we
get to use automotive spark plugs which gives us an enormous number of options,
including heat ranges. The Russian and Chinese spark plugs are a "cold" plug.
All you have to do is look at the plug when it is removed and you can see
that it is a cold plug.
>>
>>
>>
>> One of the benefits of the automotive spark plug is flexibility, to include
heat ranges. If you understand how to "read" what a spark plug is showing when
it is removed, you will see by looking at the insulator that the automotive
spark plugs are burning the air/fuel charge much more efficiently. More efficient
combustion allows the engine to develop more power, which many have reported
after installing the conversion. This may help.
>> https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i
>> -read-a-spark-plug
>> (https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-
>> i-read-a-spark-plug)
>>
>>
>>
>> Here's another good one. Look at photo #7 which looks a lot like what the Russian
and Chinese plugs look like when removed. Then read the description.
>> http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/reading-spark-plug-color.html
>> (http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/reading-spark-plug-color.html)
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis
>
>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> Thanks for the reply and for pointing out the reasoning behind the modification,
but wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper to simply replace the offending
wiring and if there was a plug or two which was causing trouble to simply replace
the failed components rather than the whole system.....
>
> I understand the advantage of having access to different heat range
> plugs but when I pull the top plugs they come out looking great
> providing the engine doesn't sit idling too long in full rich (my
> aircraft is located 1560' AMSL)
>
> The bottom plugs living in a nice oily cylinder always suffer more than the dry
plugs located at the top but are easily cleaned and put back into reliable
service if and when needed.
>
> Regards,
>
> Lance
>
> --------
> You can run but you can't hide
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455770#455770
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues |
Thanks for the replies......
I have been using a technique for threading wires through tricky channeling for
years which I am sure will work with the plug wires also
Start by sliding a piece of narrow walled heatshrink onto the wire and then twist
the old wire to the new wire. Solder the wires together so they can't pull
apart, then slide the heatshrink over the join and shrink it in place which will
stop the wire getting caught as you pull it new wire in with the old one.
I just ran a search for 5mm HT wire which came back with more results that I had
expected.......It appears there isn't that much of a problem sourcing it....It's
copper which is not silicone but I'm sure you'd be able to find silicone
if you searched. It is available in pre made plug wire kits so it's out there
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5mm-Spark-Plug-WIRE-Coil-Ignition-Hypalon-Cover-Copper-Core-SOLD-PER-FOOT-/140786539797
Regards,
Lance
--------
You can run but you can't hide
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455842#455842
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues |
The reference to silicone is for the center core (copper or whatever) shiel
ding, not the wire.=C2- ie: Silicone cover instead of rubber like the ori
ginal wires are/were depending on your frame of reference.Dennis
From: Lancer <lrob4783@bigpond.net.au>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 3, 2016 6:54 PM
Subject: Yak-List: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Auto wiring issues
Thanks for the replies......
I have been using a technique for threading wires through tricky channeling
for years which I am sure will work with the plug wires also
Start by sliding a piece of narrow walled heatshrink onto the wire and then
twist the old wire to the new wire.=C2- Solder the wires together so the
y can't pull apart, then slide the heatshrink over the join and shrink it i
n place which will stop the wire getting caught as you pull it new wire in
with the old one.
I just ran a search for 5mm HT wire which came back with more results that
I had expected.......It appears there isn't that much of a problem sourcing
it....It's copper which is not silicone but I'm sure you'd be able to find
silicone if you searched. It is available in pre made plug wire kits so it
's out there
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5mm-Spark-Plug-WIRE-Coil-Ignition-Hypalon-Cover-Cop
per-Core-SOLD-PER-FOOT-/140786539797
Regards,
Lance
--------
You can run but you can't hide
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455842#455842
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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