Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:01 AM - Re: Re: Yak 52TW Uplock Sensors (A. Dennis Savarese)
2. 08:30 AM - Re: Balkan5 problem (Bill1200)
3. 08:47 AM - Re: B&C alternator on Yak 52 (Caseyrosz)
4. 10:20 AM - Re: B&C alternator on Yak 52 (stephen.hayne)
5. 11:03 AM - jacks (William Geipel)
6. 05:16 PM - Re: Housai Winter Ops (Greg Wrobel)
7. 05:37 PM - Re: Housai Winter Ops (doug sapp)
8. 06:45 PM - Re: Housai Winter Ops (Rico Jaeger)
9. 07:32 PM - Re: Housai Winter Ops (Ernest Martinez)
10. 09:07 PM - Re: Housai Winter Ops (Rico Jaeger)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Yak 52TW Uplock Sensors |
Yes, you can adjust the end on the actuator shaft. There is a keyin the
threaded area by the nut. Remove the bolt on the drag link. Then loosen
the nut and remove the key. Rotate the end 180 degreesin whatever
direction is necessary to pull the gear leg further up into the wheel
well.Only go 1/2 turn. Then go fly the airplane and test it.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 10/23/2016 11:19 PM, ggtyler wrote:
>
> Update on this issue.
>
> Thorough inspection of the sensors shows that the sensors are working correctly.
>
> In the TW's the uplock micro switch activates the up light when the button is
released. The button is ONLY released when the uplock cam has flipped and the
gear is locked up all the way.
>
> No adjustment of the micro switch adjustment screw will make any difference as
the screw actually moves away from the switch as the uplock cam flips.
>
> I talked to the previous owner John Shuttleworth and he had had this issue a
few times. When he'd put the gear up and one light wouldn't come on, he would
move the gear switch to neutral for a couple of seconds, then back UP and the
gear would lock into place.
>
> I have flown the plane and followed his instructions, and yes, the gear lock
into place ever time using this method. Looking at the barber poles, it looks
like that side is only coming up about 1/8" or a fuzz more to flip the cam, lock
the gear and turn on the up light.
>
> So...on to the next step. How to get the gear to come all the way up on that
side. Can I adjust the ram so it comes up just a fuzz more?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461556#461556
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Balkan5 problem |
thhanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461565#461565
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator on Yak 52 |
I am also installing a B&C alternator on my yak 52. I have looked through the list
and have not been able to answer my questions.
1. What to do with the old voltage regulator wires down on the floor. Do the need
to be connected together some way or they totally redundant with the new regulator?
2. I see in the picture of the previous post all the reverse current relays have
been removed. Is that necessary or just for a cleaner installation?
Lastly I would love to speak to anyone who had done the conversion off line for
any advice to avoid the common pit falls.
Thanks,
Casey
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461569#461569
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator on Yak 52 |
I'm about to do one on a CJ, so if someone can post any FAQs or procedures, I would
really appreciate it!
Stephen
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461574#461574
Message 5
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Anybody have aircraft jacks from the Jack House?
They have no phone number and dont answer their Email?
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Housai Winter Ops |
If you live in South Florida like Ernie, closing your cooler door may work.
If your anywhere North of Gainesville, you will need to learn the tricks.
First of all, make sure you have heating pads on your sump, oil tank and
oil cooler. When the OAT Temps get below 50 degrees, plug them in. Next,
if you have not already done so install a chicken wire screen
(approximately 1/2 inch square screen wire available at Lowe's or Home
depot) in the leading edge oil cooler inlet. You take the housing inlet off
on the leading edge and install the screen. Two things, it keeps people
from throwing coke cans down there and a place to place duct tape (read
on). Even by closing the oil cooler door from inside the cockpit you still
need to block the air off at the inlet on the leading edge of the wing.
There are several ways to mount blocker plates but what I find is a piece
of duct tape on the screen you installed works great. It's easy to install,
and if it's colder in the morning and it warms up by midday, you simply
remove it. You will find you might have to run your engine a little warmer
in the winter. A hotter engine means hotter oil. If 170 is mid range
normal in the summer then 190 plus will help warm the oil in the winter
if blocking the airflow with the tape is not enough. I did not say
blocking 100%. You will need to experiment with your aircraft and the
current OAT. I use about a 4 inch long piece to start. On colder days I
may block it off even more. Remember on decent don't pull you throttle to
idle. You may need to close down you Gill shutters to keep your cylinder
head temps in the green and not cool shock the engine thus cracking a
cylinder. Keeping your engine and oil temps in their proper range can be
challenging in the summer but I believe even more so in the winter. With
the right amount of balance between throttle, gills, cylinder head temp,
oil cooler door and blocking off airflow at the inlet on the wing. If
anyone ever designs a good after market kit that you can block the airflow
at the intake and control it from the cockpit, I believe he or she will
have some extra cash in their bank account. Good luck.
On Oct 19, 2016 8:31 AM, "Ernest Martinez" <erniel29@gmail.com> wrote:
> Just close the oil cooler control, that''l bring the scoop up.
>
> On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 4:20 AM, Daniel Sallee <danielsallee@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I have a CJ-6A with the stock Housai. It's getting colder out, what have
>> other people done to block off the oil cooler? Also what are preferred
>> temps for cruise in the winter?
>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Housai Winter Ops |
Or you can install a winterization kit as in the attached photo.
I think I may still have some fitted cowl blankets also.
Doug
On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 5:16 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22@gmail.com> wrote:
> If you live in South Florida like Ernie, closing your cooler door may
> work. If your anywhere North of Gainesville, you will need to learn the
> tricks. First of all, make sure you have heating pads on your sump, oil
> tank and oil cooler. When the OAT Temps get below 50 degrees, plug them
> in. Next, if you have not already done so install a chicken wire screen
> (approximately 1/2 inch square screen wire available at Lowe's or Home
> depot) in the leading edge oil cooler inlet. You take the housing inlet off
> on the leading edge and install the screen. Two things, it keeps people
> from throwing coke cans down there and a place to place duct tape (read
> on). Even by closing the oil cooler door from inside the cockpit you still
> need to block the air off at the inlet on the leading edge of the wing.
> There are several ways to mount blocker plates but what I find is a piece
> of duct tape on the screen you installed works great. It's easy to install,
> and if it's colder in the morning and it warms up by midday, you simply
> remove it. You will find you might have to run your engine a little warmer
> in the winter. A hotter engine means hotter oil. If 170 is mid range
> normal in the summer then 190 plus will help warm the oil in the winter
> if blocking the airflow with the tape is not enough. I did not say
> blocking 100%. You will need to experiment with your aircraft and the
> current OAT. I use about a 4 inch long piece to start. On colder days I
> may block it off even more. Remember on decent don't pull you throttle to
> idle. You may need to close down you Gill shutters to keep your cylinder
> head temps in the green and not cool shock the engine thus cracking a
> cylinder. Keeping your engine and oil temps in their proper range can be
> challenging in the summer but I believe even more so in the winter. With
> the right amount of balance between throttle, gills, cylinder head temp,
> oil cooler door and blocking off airflow at the inlet on the wing. If
> anyone ever designs a good after market kit that you can block the airflow
> at the intake and control it from the cockpit, I believe he or she will
> have some extra cash in their bank account. Good luck.
>
> On Oct 19, 2016 8:31 AM, "Ernest Martinez" <erniel29@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Just close the oil cooler control, that''l bring the scoop up.
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 4:20 AM, Daniel Sallee <danielsallee@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a CJ-6A with the stock Housai. It's getting colder out, what have
>>> other people done to block off the oil cooler? Also what are preferred
>>> temps for cruise in the winter?
>>>
>>
>>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Housai Winter Ops |
This is depressing. Sure enjoyed our 3 weeks of sunny, t-shirt flying weath
er in WI...(sigh)
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 24, 2016, at 7:42 PM, doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com<mailto:dougsa
ppllc@gmail.com>> wrote:
Or you can install a winterization kit as in the attached photo.
I think I may still have some fitted cowl blankets also.
Doug
On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 5:16 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22@gmail.com<mailto:c
louddog22@gmail.com>> wrote:
If you live in South Florida like Ernie, closing your cooler door may work.
If your anywhere North of Gainesville, you will need to learn the tricks.
First of all, make sure you have heating pads on your sump, oil tank and oi
l cooler. When the OAT Temps get below 50 degrees, plug them in. Next, if
you have not already done so install a chicken wire screen (approximately 1
/2 inch square screen wire available at Lowe's or Home depot) in the leadi
ng edge oil cooler inlet. You take the housing inlet off on the leading edg
e and install the screen. Two things, it keeps people from throwing coke c
ans down there and a place to place duct tape (read on). Even by closing t
he oil cooler door from inside the cockpit you still need to block the air
off at the inlet on the leading edge of the wing. There are several ways to
mount blocker plates but what I find is a piece of duct tape on the screen
you installed works great. It's easy to install, and if it's colder in the
morning and it warms up by midday, you simply remove it. You will find you
might have to run your engine a little warmer in the winter. A hotter engi
ne means hotter oil. If 170 is mid range normal in the summer then 190 plu
s will help warm the oil in the winter if blocking the airflow with the t
ape is not enough. I did not say blocking 100%. You will need to experiment
with your aircraft and the current OAT. I use about a 4 inch long piece t
o start. On colder days I may block it off even more. Remember on decent d
on't pull you throttle to idle. You may need to close down you Gill shutter
s to keep your cylinder head temps in the green and not cool shock the engi
ne thus cracking a cylinder. Keeping your engine and oil temps in their pro
per range can be challenging in the summer but I believe even more so in th
e winter. With the right amount of balance between throttle, gills, cylinde
r head temp, oil cooler door and blocking off airflow at the inlet on the w
ing. If anyone ever designs a good after market kit that you can block the
airflow at the intake and control it from the cockpit, I believe he or she
will have some extra cash in their bank account. Good luck.
On Oct 19, 2016 8:31 AM, "Ernest Martinez" <erniel29@gmail.com<mailto:ernie
l29@gmail.com>> wrote:
Just close the oil cooler control, that''l bring the scoop up.
On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 4:20 AM, Daniel Sallee <danielsallee@gmail.com<mail
to:danielsallee@gmail.com>> wrote:
I have a CJ-6A with the stock Housai. It's getting colder out, what have ot
her people done to block off the oil cooler? Also what are preferred temps
for cruise in the winter?
<MVC-012F.JPG>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Housai Winter Ops |
Yea, I hear you, I'll have to winterize the plane sometime in the 2nd week
of Feb, and will have to wait till the 2nd week of Mar. to thaw out.
On Monday, October 24, 2016, Rico Jaeger <rocknpilot@hotmail.com> wrote:
> This is depressing. Sure enjoyed our 3 weeks of sunny, t-shirt flying
> weather in WI...(sigh)
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Oct 24, 2016, at 7:42 PM, doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','dougsappllc@gmail.com');>> wrote:
>
> Or you can install a winterization kit as in the attached photo.
> I think I may still have some fitted cowl blankets also.
>
> Doug
>
> On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 5:16 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22@gmail.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','clouddog22@gmail.com');>> wrote:
>
>> If you live in South Florida like Ernie, closing your cooler door may
>> work. If your anywhere North of Gainesville, you will need to learn the
>> tricks. First of all, make sure you have heating pads on your sump, oil
>> tank and oil cooler. When the OAT Temps get below 50 degrees, plug them
>> in. Next, if you have not already done so install a chicken wire screen
>> (approximately 1/2 inch square screen wire available at Lowe's or Home
>> depot) in the leading edge oil cooler inlet. You take the housing inlet off
>> on the leading edge and install the screen. Two things, it keeps people
>> from throwing coke cans down there and a place to place duct tape (read
>> on). Even by closing the oil cooler door from inside the cockpit you still
>> need to block the air off at the inlet on the leading edge of the wing.
>> There are several ways to mount blocker plates but what I find is a piece
>> of duct tape on the screen you installed works great. It's easy to install,
>> and if it's colder in the morning and it warms up by midday, you simply
>> remove it. You will find you might have to run your engine a little warmer
>> in the winter. A hotter engine means hotter oil. If 170 is mid range
>> normal in the summer then 190 plus will help warm the oil in the winter
>> if blocking the airflow with the tape is not enough. I did not say
>> blocking 100%. You will need to experiment with your aircraft and the
>> current OAT. I use about a 4 inch long piece to start. On colder days I
>> may block it off even more. Remember on decent don't pull you throttle to
>> idle. You may need to close down you Gill shutters to keep your cylinder
>> head temps in the green and not cool shock the engine thus cracking a
>> cylinder. Keeping your engine and oil temps in their proper range can be
>> challenging in the summer but I believe even more so in the winter. With
>> the right amount of balance between throttle, gills, cylinder head temp,
>> oil cooler door and blocking off airflow at the inlet on the wing. If
>> anyone ever designs a good after market kit that you can block the airflow
>> at the intake and control it from the cockpit, I believe he or she will
>> have some extra cash in their bank account. Good luck.
>>
>> On Oct 19, 2016 8:31 AM, "Ernest Martinez" <erniel29@gmail.com
>> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','erniel29@gmail.com');>> wrote:
>>
>>> Just close the oil cooler control, that''l bring the scoop up.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 4:20 AM, Daniel Sallee <danielsallee@gmail.com
>>> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','danielsallee@gmail.com');>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have a CJ-6A with the stock Housai. It's getting colder out, what
>>>> have other people done to block off the oil cooler? Also what are preferred
>>>> temps for cruise in the winter?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
> <MVC-012F.JPG>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Housai Winter Ops |
Awe, Ern...your optimism warms my heart! (Pun intended) Yes, March is an ex
citing time cuz it means the snow line begins to drop to roof level. Before
you know it, it's June and we're pushing density altitude readings above s
ea level! You know the saying "knee high by the 4th of July?" Well here we
say "snow is down to 8 feet, here comes the 30 degree heat!" Well, at least
it's a nice "dry heat...." And before you know it, it's July and you can s
tart chipping away the ice dam anchoring the big door to that blacktop that
you're pretty sure was there last Summer...then it's off to SloshkOSH...or
FrostkOSH...or whatever cruel joke the gods choose to punish me with. Gee,
reading this I sound kinda bitter. NAH!!!
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 24, 2016, at 9:35 PM, Ernest Martinez <erniel29@gmail.com<mailto:ern
iel29@gmail.com>> wrote:
Yea, I hear you, I'll have to winterize the plane sometime in the 2nd week
of Feb, and will have to wait till the 2nd week of Mar. to thaw out.
On Monday, October 24, 2016, Rico Jaeger <rocknpilot@hotmail.com<mailto:roc
knpilot@hotmail.com>> wrote:
This is depressing. Sure enjoyed our 3 weeks of sunny, t-shirt flying weath
er in WI...(sigh)
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 24, 2016, at 7:42 PM, doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com<javascript:_e
(%7B%7D,'cvml','dougsappllc@gmail.com');>> wrote:
Or you can install a winterization kit as in the attached photo.
I think I may still have some fitted cowl blankets also.
Doug
On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 5:16 PM, Greg Wrobel <clouddog22@gmail.com<javascri
pt:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','clouddog22@gmail.com');>> wrote:
If you live in South Florida like Ernie, closing your cooler door may work.
If your anywhere North of Gainesville, you will need to learn the tricks.
First of all, make sure you have heating pads on your sump, oil tank and oi
l cooler. When the OAT Temps get below 50 degrees, plug them in. Next, if
you have not already done so install a chicken wire screen (approximately 1
/2 inch square screen wire available at Lowe's or Home depot) in the leadi
ng edge oil cooler inlet. You take the housing inlet off on the leading edg
e and install the screen. Two things, it keeps people from throwing coke c
ans down there and a place to place duct tape (read on). Even by closing t
he oil cooler door from inside the cockpit you still need to block the air
off at the inlet on the leading edge of the wing. There are several ways to
mount blocker plates but what I find is a piece of duct tape on the screen
you installed works great. It's easy to install, and if it's colder in the
morning and it warms up by midday, you simply remove it. You will find you
might have to run your engine a little warmer in the winter. A hotter engi
ne means hotter oil. If 170 is mid range normal in the summer then 190 plu
s will help warm the oil in the winter if blocking the airflow with the t
ape is not enough. I did not say blocking 100%. You will need to experiment
with your aircraft and the current OAT. I use about a 4 inch long piece t
o start. On colder days I may block it off even more. Remember on decent d
on't pull you throttle to idle. You may need to close down you Gill shutter
s to keep your cylinder head temps in the green and not cool shock the engi
ne thus cracking a cylinder. Keeping your engine and oil temps in their pro
per range can be challenging in the summer but I believe even more so in th
e winter. With the right amount of balance between throttle, gills, cylinde
r head temp, oil cooler door and blocking off airflow at the inlet on the w
ing. If anyone ever designs a good after market kit that you can block the
airflow at the intake and control it from the cockpit, I believe he or she
will have some extra cash in their bank account. Good luck.
On Oct 19, 2016 8:31 AM, "Ernest Martinez" <erniel29@gmail.com<javascript:_
e(%7B%7D,'cvml','erniel29@gmail.com');>> wrote:
Just close the oil cooler control, that''l bring the scoop up.
On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 4:20 AM, Daniel Sallee <danielsallee@gmail.com<java
script:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','danielsallee@gmail.com');>> wrote:
I have a CJ-6A with the stock Housai. It's getting colder out, what have ot
her people done to block off the oil cooler? Also what are preferred temps
for cruise in the winter?
<MVC-012F.JPG>
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