Yak-List Digest Archive

Sat 02/18/17


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:56 AM - Re: Re: Control surfaces fabric recovering (Roger Kemp)
     2. 08:01 AM - Re: CJ whiskey compass O/H (LawnDart)
     3. 08:25 AM - Re: Control surfaces fabric recovering (stephen.hayne)
     4. 11:04 AM - Re: Re: Cj6 grease nipple fitting (Walter Lannon)
     5. 04:17 PM - Re: Re: Control surfaces fabric recovering (Roger Kemp)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:56:37 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Control surfaces fabric recovering
    From: Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com>
    They look good Stephen. It is not rocket science. Pretty easy once you get going. Doc Sent from my iPad > On Feb 17, 2017, at 11:20 PM, stephen.hayne <stephen.hayne@gmail.com> wrote: > > > I just finished STITS from Aircraft Spruce, and it cost about $750 including the PolyTone "paint" (which was almost the most expensive part). Here is what I initially bought: > > Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price > 2 2 0 09-18400 RIB STITCH NEEDLE 4" STRAIGHT # 504 1.450 2.90 > 1 1 0 09-02450 STITS PINKED P103 2" TAPE 25YD 23.200 23.20 > 2 2 0 09-03206 3" CURVED NEEDLE 1.120 2.24 > 2 2 0 09-03204 2" CURVED NEEDLE 0.950 1.90 > 2 2 0 09-18300 RIB STITCH NEEDLE 2-1/2" CURVD 1.100 2.20 > 2 2 0 09-18500 RIB STITCH NEEDLE 10" # 504 3.450 6.90 > 1 1 0 09-18710 RIB STITCH NEEDLE 6" CURVED 2.650 2.65 > 1 1 0 09-18705 RIB STITCH NEEDLE 3" CURVED 1.200 1.20 > 1 1 0 09-02900 POLY-FIBER P-103 3" TAPE 25YD 27.800 27.80 > 1 1 0 09-03600 STITS REINFORCING TAPE 3/8 56.600 56.60 > 1 0 1 09-41300-1 CECONITE RIB LACE CORD D693 RD 45.500 0.00 > 1 1 0 09-00234 POLY-FIBER COLOR CHART # 50 0.000 0.00 > 5 5 0 09-01600 POLY-FIBER FABRIC MEDIUM 73" 2.97 OZ 11.950 59.575 > 2 0 2 09-04850 POLY-FIBER REDUCER RR8500 GAL 48.500 0.00 > 1 1 0 09-04500 POLY-FIBER POLY-SPRAY GALLON 83.600 83.60 > 1 1 0 09-04100 POLY-BRUSH QT. TINTED 25.750 25.75 > 1 1 0 09-05000 POLY-FIBER POLY-TAK CEMENT QT 27.500 27.50 > > I ran out of Poly-Tak and Ply-Spray and had to borrow some from a friend. Didn't use ANY of the needles except the straight one. Lots of tape, thread and reducer left. > > I then bought a gallon of the Poly-Tone (clear) and had it tinted locally to match the Chinese Olive Drab - fairly good match. Didn't try to paint the underside different. Still have 1/2 gallon of the clear Polytone left, as I only mixed up a couple quarts of color. > > I had never done this before, and it took about 3 weeks of afternoons... I'm fairly satisfied with the job, but I got progressively better. Next time would be almost professional. I'm pretty sure it is safe. :) > > Attached is a pic of them - didn't get the elevators in there very well. > > Hope this helps. > > Stephen > > -------- > - > Dr. Stephen C. Hayne, Professor, CIS, Colorado State University > __!__ > _____(_)_____ 666CJ > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466408#466408 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20161230_153029_794.jpg > > > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:01:39 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: CJ whiskey compass O/H
    From: "LawnDart" <propwash@gmail.com>
    If it is similar to the Russian compass, it is pretty straight forward. It can be difficult or impossible to get the back off; they are threaded on and require a watch style pin wrench. Securing the compass body without damaging is difficult. Once off, drain, clean replace fluid, replace seal and refill. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466418#466418


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:25:49 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Control surfaces fabric recovering
    From: "stephen.hayne" <stephen.hayne@gmail.com>
    Wow - I just watched a video of the Oratex (http://www.betteraircraftfabric.com/oratex.html) and I wish I had known about it earlier. Seems like quite the good system. Easier and cheaper and probably more durable - check out the hammer test... Oh, and thanks, Doc. It wasn't rocket science, but quite nerve wracking when you really don't know what you are doing, but just following the manual and looking at the old Chinese pattern. Stephen -------- - Dr. Stephen C. Hayne, Professor, CIS, Colorado State University __!__ _____(_)_____ 666CJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466420#466420


    Message 4


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    Time: 11:04:22 AM PST US
    From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: Cj6 grease nipple fitting
    Good point Doug; I had forgotten about that one. I made new bushings for that but it can also be done by adding a washer. Walt From: doug sapp Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 9:18 PM Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Cj6 grease nipple fitting Another problem point is on the nose gear bracket, if the threaded (grip le ngth) of the zerk is to long it will bind up the nose gear brass bushing, m aking steering difficult or impossible. Doug On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 8:03 PM, Walter Lannon <wlannon@shaw.ca> wrote: More; Only two (each MLG) not replaced with Western standard. First photo is the one referenced by Justin. Second location has the pot ential for interference in the up cycle if replaced with Western. May be OK and I can't remember for sure what the actual problem was but d ecided better safe than sorry. Walt -----Original Message----- From: Walter Lannon Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 11:47 AM To: yak-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Cj6 grease nipple fitting Harv, et al; I have replaced the Russian/Chinese/Polish grease fittings with Western i n all locations except for two on each MLG. One of these locations has been identified by Justin Drafts. This one, as he has noted, is critical. The second is far less obvious. It has been some time since I did this so my memory may be suspect but I think this one required a 45 (or 90?) deg. fitting which would only work in one radial position without contacting other structure and could only be detected by hand swinging the gear with the doors off. I concluded this could become a problem at a future fitting replacement without realizing the position was critical and decided to remain stock. Since I have the original Chinese grease gun it is not a problem. Compa red to the western standard it is far more time consuming but, IMHO, much mor e reliable. Will try to get a photo of that location and post it. Chang Driver has given a recommendation for Aeroshell Grease 6 which is probably acceptable for most general applications but is NOT recommended for wheel bearings. Check out the link he included to the Aeroshell website. Since I get involved with CJ prop. overhaul on occasion I would not use Grease 6 there as well. Aeroshell Grease 5 is my recommendation for everything on the aircraft. If you can find a Russian, Chinese or Polish grease gun buy one. Much better than the push type also recommended. Get on to Doug Sapp's case and tell him to import some. Cheers; Walt -----Original Message----- From: Harv Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 7:49 AM To: yak-list@matronics.com Subject: Yak-List: Re: Cj6 grease nipple fitting Thanks I'm happy to stick with the Chinese nipple (ahem) if I can find a fitting Thanks for recommendation re grease Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466349#466349 --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus


    Message 5


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    Time: 04:17:00 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Control surfaces fabric recovering
    From: Roger Kemp <f16viperdoc@me.com>
    The Antonov was impressive. We had a demo at our EAA meeting a couple of years ago. The rep was not sure about it at 200 kts. He was a writer for Kit Planes. It looked good. It went on exactly like the RC aircraft I used to cover. Being unable to answer the 200kts question pushed me to the tried and true method of Stits covering. I in a holding pattern due to three cracked ribs on my left aileron that had been poorly field engineered by the way the RU had patched them. The trailing edge had also been Afro engineered. It had 8 cracks in it! They placed an aluminum 2 cm wide bar down center of the trailing edge between the two ribs that the trim tab attached to. It cracked again at both attachment points for trim tab. Finding that answered the question of why a right snap roll would ratchet through the roll more like a 16 point roll. Currently am making hammer molds to rebuild the ribs. Then I have to find the phenolic squares that they use in the trailing edges of the ribs at the attachment points. That has slowed me again! Doc Sent from my iPad > On Feb 18, 2017, at 10:25 AM, stephen.hayne <stephen.hayne@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Wow - I just watched a video of the Oratex (http://www.betteraircraftfabric.com/oratex.html) and I wish I had known about it earlier. Seems like quite the good system. Easier and cheaper and probably more durable - check out the hammer test... > > Oh, and thanks, Doc. It wasn't rocket science, but quite nerve wracking when you really don't know what you are doing, but just following the manual and looking at the old Chinese pattern. > > Stephen > > -------- > - > Dr. Stephen C. Hayne, Professor, CIS, Colorado State University > __!__ > _____(_)_____ 666CJ > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466420#466420 > > > > > > > > >




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