Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:20 AM - Re: Re: WON'T START (ggg6@att.net)
2. 12:52 PM - Re: WON'T START (Bill1200)
3. 01:14 PM - Re: Re: WON'T START (JON)
4. 02:05 PM - Re: Re: WON'T START (Anthony Savarese)
5. 02:08 PM - Re: Re: WON'T START (Anthony Savarese)
6. 03:23 PM - Re: WON'T START (Bill1200)
7. 03:53 PM - Re: Re: WON'T START (Walter Lannon)
8. 05:06 PM - Re: Re: WON'T START (A. Dennis Savarese)
Message 1
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Check the gap on the spark plugs. I had that once. Reset gap. Problem solved.
Gary
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 1, 2017, at 17:02, Bill1200 <billdykes52@hotmail.com> wrote:
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> Yes, auto plug conversion last year
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> Read this topic online here:
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> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473257#473257
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Message 2
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Update
Checked spark at ignition coil wire, great bright blue spark up to 1/2 inch away
from engine block so don't think that is the problem. Cleaned all contacts inside
the cap and points
So, now I will check the plug gaps as noted above. How do I check to make sure
the spark from the coil wire is getting to the plugs?
Don't think it's a fuel problem either, gets plenty of gas coming out of intake
drain after priming
Stumped!!!!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473269#473269
Message 3
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With all the discussion about the primer on a YAK... I have this question about
the primer on the CJ: How does rotating the primer counterclockwise or clockwise
on a CJ differ? I'd heard that clockwise doubles the amount of fuel...true?
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill1200" <billdykes52@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 2, 2017 2:52:40 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: WON'T START
Update
Checked spark at ignition coil wire, great bright blue spark up to 1/2 inch away
from engine block so don't think that is the problem. Cleaned all contacts inside
the cap and points
So, now I will check the plug gaps as noted above. How do I check to make sure
the spark from the coil wire is getting to the plugs?
Don't think it's a fuel problem either, gets plenty of gas coming out of intake
drain after priming
Stumped!!!!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473269#473269
Message 4
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Question- is the engine correctly timed? What is the point gap on each mag? How
many degrees BTDC are the mags timed?
Dennis
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 2, 2017, at 3:52 PM, Bill1200 <billdykes52@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Update
>
> Checked spark at ignition coil wire, great bright blue spark up to 1/2 inch away
from engine block so don't think that is the problem. Cleaned all contacts
inside the cap and points
>
> So, now I will check the plug gaps as noted above. How do I check to make sure
the spark from the coil wire is getting to the plugs?
>
> Don't think it's a fuel problem either, gets plenty of gas coming out of intake
drain after priming
>
> Stumped!!!!!!!!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473269#473269
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
.
Message 5
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One last thing. Is the rotor properly positioned when the points open? This
is very important.
Dennis
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 2, 2017, at 4:13 PM, JON <jblake207@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> With all the discussion about the primer on a YAK... I have this question a
bout the primer on the CJ: How does rotating the primer counterclockwise or
clockwise on a CJ differ? I'd heard that clockwise doubles the amount of f
uel...true? JB
>
>
> From: "Bill1200" <billdykes52@hotmail.com>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, October 2, 2017 2:52:40 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: WON'T START
>
>
> Update
>
> Checked spark at ignition coil wire, great bright blue spark up to 1/2 inc
h away from engine block so don't think that is the problem. Cleaned all con
tacts inside the cap and points
>
> So, now I will check the plug gaps as noted above. How do I check to make
sure the spark from the coil wire is getting to the plugs?
>
> Don't think it's a fuel problem either, gets plenty of gas coming out of i
ntake drain after priming
>
> Stumped!!!!!!!!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473269#473======
=================
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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second update
went back to airport about 2 hours after this morning's failed attempts, started
right up after only 2 pumps prime (was concerned this might be an overprime
problem)
To answer your question, the timing was not done on the last annual so I don't
know, but as stated it runs great once it starts. That being said, would it run
at all if the rotor was not on correctly?
When I do the runup, the mags have always dropped what I felt was excessive, but
was told it wasn't a big enough deal to adjust. RPM drop 5-6% both sides identical
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473275#473275
Message 7
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Hi Jon;
The CJ primer is essentially identical to it=99s Russian counterpart.
It is the CJ fuel system that is different in that the Emergency fuel sup
ply is provided by a hand operated wobble pump. As a result there is no n
eed for the second function of the primer unit (Emergency fuel pump). Wit
h the simple addition of a jumper line (by the factory) connecting the two
output ports it became an engine primer only from either side. No, it does
not change the output fuel quantity.
Could be converted to work in the =9852 system by simply removing the
jumper.
After reading about Bill Dykes starting problems I wonder if over-priming m
ay have something to do with it and if everyone involved is fully aware of
the danger of hydraulic lock from that source.
Walt
From: JON
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2017 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: WON'T START
With all the discussion about the primer on a YAK... I have this question a
bout the primer on the CJ: How does rotating the primer counterclockwise o
r clockwise on a CJ differ? I'd heard that clockwise doubles the amount of
fuel...true? JB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: "Bill1200" <billdykes52@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 2, 2017 2:52:40 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: WON'T START
Update
Checked spark at ignition coil wire, great bright blue spark up to 1/2 inch
away from engine block so don't think that is the problem. Cleaned all con
tacts inside the cap and points
So, now I will check the plug gaps as noted above. How do I check to make
sure the spark from the coil wire is getting to the plugs?
Don't think it's a fuel problem either, gets plenty of gas coming out of in
take drain after priming
Stumped!!!!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473269#473======
=================
---
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Message 8
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Yes, it would run if the rotor was reasonably close to the correct position
.
The problem is, anytime you add an air gap to the spark circuit, you add re
sistance to the circuit and thus reduce the voltage presented to the spark
plug.=C2- If I remember correctly, the coils in these mags only produce a
bout 18,000 volts, which is VERY old technology compared to what 4 stroke e
ngine coils produce today. =C2- In the dozens and dozens of mags that I h
ave attempted to time over the years, it is truly amazing how many rotors I
have found improperly positioned.=C2- A telltale sign is the carbon trac
ing in the rotor cap before or after the contact point.
Also, a worn rotor finger adds to the air gap even if the rotor is properly
positioned.=C2- Many times you'll find one rotor finger shorter than the
other.=C2- The starting coil finger on the rotor is the trailing finger
in the counterclockwise rotation direction.=C2- You could try swapping ro
tors since the right mag starting finger is not used and may help with star
ting if the finger on the left mag is quite short.=C2- Just make sure the
rotor is properly positioned when you swap them.=C2- You can also measur
e the distance between the center button and the leading finger and the sta
rting coil ring on the rotor to the trailing finger in the counterclockwise
rotation direction.=C2- Then measure the mag cap distance.=C2- You the
n know how much distance there is between the rotor fingers and the contact
s in the cap.
To position the rotor, using your mag timing box, rotate the prop until the
points open on the #4 cylinder.=C2- Now loosen the 3 slotted screws hold
ing the rotor and using a 6" metal ruler or similar straight edge, position
the straight edge over the center point of the rotor to the leading finger
and to the scribe mark on the cover mating surface on the mag itself.=C2
- Those three points must line up and then you tighten the 3 slotted scre
ws.=C2- The mistake many people make is they do not look straight down on
the mag to align the 3 points.=C2- They look at the straight edge while
standing on the ground or even on a stool.=C2- But not straight down on t
he rotor.=C2- By properly aligning the rotor, it positions the rotor fing
er directly under the contact point in the mag cap.
Do you know how many hours are on the mags and thus the rotors?=C2-=C2-
If you don't know, it may be beneficial to replace the rotors and mag caps
.=C2- I believe according to Jill at M14P, the mags should be overhauled
at 600 hours.Dennis=C2-
From: Bill1200 <billdykes52@hotmail.com>
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 2, 2017 6:24 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: WON'T START
second update
went back to airport about 2 hours after this morning's failed attempts, st
arted right up after only 2 pumps prime (was concerned this might be an ove
rprime=C2- problem)
To answer your question, the timing was not done on the last annual so I do
n't know, but as stated it runs great once it starts. That being said, woul
d it run at all if the rotor was not on correctly?
When I do the runup, the mags have always dropped what I felt was excessive
, but was told it wasn't a big enough deal to adjust. RPM drop 5-6% both si
des identical
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473275#473275
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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