Yak-List Digest Archive

Wed 01/17/18


Total Messages Posted: 16



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:00 AM - Re: Re: Brake air leak (Greg Wrobel)
     2. 09:02 AM - Re: Re: Brake air leak (doug sapp)
     3. 10:01 AM - Re: Brake air leak (bmsim)
     4. 10:37 AM - Re: Re: Brake air leak (A. Dennis Savarese)
     5. 10:45 AM - Super-cool oil temp (apatton2)
     6. 10:58 AM - Re: Super-cool oil temp (bmsim)
     7. 11:04 AM - Re: Super-cool oil temp (Ernest Martinez)
     8. 02:34 PM - M14p, prop shaft oil leak. (Steve Geard)
     9. 04:21 PM - CJ6A POH Request (PS)
    10. 07:43 PM - Re: M14p, prop shaft oil leak. (Royden Heays)
    11. 08:01 PM - Re: Super-cool oil temp (Richard Goode)
    12. 08:11 PM - Re: M14p, prop shaft oil leak. (Richard Goode)
    13. 08:37 PM - Re: Super-cool oil temp (apatton2)
    14. 09:44 PM - Re: Super-cool oil temp (\)
    15. 10:19 PM - Re: Re: Super-cool oil temp (Richard Goode)
    16. 10:56 PM - M-14 powered CJ-6 engine ground run form (Jay McIntyre)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:00:41 AM PST US
    From: Greg Wrobel <clouddog22@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Brake air leak
    I'm with you Pod. Obviously it can be done but what a pain. I also purchased a new one from Doug. Oh another pain besides the trim cable...... Replacing all the oil lines on a CJ. Clouddog On Jan 16, 2018 8:04 AM, "MSF" <michaelfoster@bellsouth.net> wrote: I found the QS-1 overhaul kit to be a fairly difficult exercise. Buy the complete assembly and fly with a known good unit. Pod Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10 *From: *doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com> *Sent: *Monday, January 15, 2018 2:53 PM *To: *yak-list@matronics.com *Subject: *Re: Yak-List: Re: Brake air leak Dennis/Bmsim, An out of the kits to o/h the QS1 (brake pressure reducing valve) at tis time, but do have the complete assy in stock. Doug On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 5:40 AM, A. Dennis Savarese < dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote: Yes, the brake reducing valve is in the upper right of the cut-away drawing I sent you. The other two components are the brake disabling solendoid (lower right) and the brake differential valve (left side). When you said "no one seems to have kits right now", I'm assuming you did check with Doug Sapp, the CJ parts supplier? Dennis *From:* bmsim <bmsim@hotmail.com> *To:* yak-list@matronics.com *Sent:* Sunday, January 14, 2018 9:02 PM *Subject:* Yak-List: Re: Brake air leak Thanks Dennis, so this is the reducing valve? You had said the reducing valve was in the upper right of your picture, and this is in the lower right, so just confirming before I buy a replacement (noone seems to have kits right now). dsavarese0812(at)bellsout wrote: > Remove the brake reducing valve and either replace it or rebuild it. That should fix your problem. > Dennis > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Jan 13, 2018, at 12:37 PM, bmsim wrote: > > > > > > > > I got the floor panel off and the leak is coming from a port on the valve in the right bottom of Dennis' photo. There's a male threaded port on bottom that does not have an air line attached, and when I apply the parking brake, air continuously comes out that port. > > > > If the reducing valve is in the top right of the pic, what is this valve? Strange that it blows out that open port. I'm assuming it is there for a reason and doesn't need capped. > > > > Thanks for the help! > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477265#477265 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477290#477290 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/20180113_112200_615.jpg <http://forums.matronics.com/files/20180113_112200_615.jpg> http://www.matronics.com/Navigsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - http://forum - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - http://wiki.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/c


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:02:10 AM PST US
    From: doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Brake air leak
    Dennis, I do stock a air line fitting which has double male flare ends for use as a splicer on the 6MM hard lines. P/n is HB4-4-4. It uses the std B nut which requires a 17MM wrench. We also have worked out a nifty air line cap by using the above fitting, a sleeve/ferrel, a B nut, and a undrilled air line restricter. Very handy to have when testing systems. We also stock a full range of pipe to flare fittings as used on the CJ6. Doug On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 5:05 PM, A. Dennis Savarese < dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote: > dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> > > Be careful trying to bend the original tubing.=C3=AF=C2=C2=BD It is ve ry brittle and > can easily crack. > > You could try Doug Sapp for the male to male union.=C3=AF=C2=C2=BD But I can honestly > say I have never seen one (metric with the correct flare). > > The alternative is what I described earlier using the 5052 metric aluminu m > tubing. > > A. Dennis Savarese > 334-546-8182 (mobile) > www.yak-52.com > Skype - Yakguy1 > > On 1/16/2018 6:40 PM, bmsim wrote: > >> >> Yak 52 >> >> I took the bypass valve out. The bypass button/solenoid was disabled >> years ago, but evidently something inside has failed, allowing air to >> escape via the open port when the parking brake is applied. >> >> >> After removing the valve, there is plenty of line to bend it over and >> eliminate the bypass valve if I had a male/male union. Does anyone know >> where I might be able to get a male/male flare union that I could plug i n >> after putting the appropriate angle on the line? I'm having trouble >> locating this part so far. >> >> Thanks Guys, >> >> Brandon >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477351#477351 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 10:01:32 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Brake air leak
    From: "bmsim" <bmsim@hotmail.com>
    Hi Doug, I sent you an email. How can order a couple of the HB4-4-4 parts from you? Wouldn't mind a price on the cap too. Thank you, Brandon dougsappllc(at)gmail.com wrote: > Dennis,I do stock a air line fitting which has double male flare ends for use as a splicer on the 6MM hard lines. P/n is HB4-4-4. It uses the std B nut which requires a 17MM wrench. > > > We also have worked out a nifty air line cap by using the above fitting, a sleeve/ferrel, a B nut, and a undrilled air line restricter. Very handy to have when testing systems. > > > We also stock a full range of pipe to flare fittings as used on the CJ6. > > > Doug > > > On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 5:05 PM, A. Dennis Savarese wrote: > > > > > Be careful trying to bend the original tubing. It is very brittle and can easily crack. > > > > You could try Doug Sapp for the male to male union. But I can honestly say I have never seen one (metric with the correct flare). > > > > The alternative is what I described earlier using the 5052 metric aluminum tubing. > > > > A. Dennis Savarese > > 334-546-8182 (tel:334-546-8182)(mobile) > > www.yak-52.com (http://www.yak-52.com) > > Skype - Yakguy1 > > > > On 1/16/2018 6:40 PM, bmsim wrote: > > > > > > > > Yak 52 > > > > > > I took the bypass valve out. The bypass button/solenoid was disabled years ago, but evidently something inside has failed, allowing air to escape via the open port when the parking brake is applied. > > > > > > > > > After removing the valve, there is plenty of line to bend it over and eliminate the bypass valve if I had a male/male union. Does anyone know where I might be able to get a male/male flare union that I could plug in after putting the appropriate angle on the line? I'm having trouble locating this part so far. > > > > > > Thanks Guys, > > > > > > Brandon > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477351#477351 (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477351#477351) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =================================== > > List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List > > =================================== > > FORUMS - > > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > > =================================== > > WIKI - > > errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com > > =================================== > > b Site - > > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > =================================== > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477372#477372


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:37:46 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Brake air leak
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
    Doug, Thanks so much for the update. All of the information is very valuable. I'll be sure to pass this along to whomever needs it, whenever they need it. I hope all is well with you and Kathleen. BR Dennis A. Dennis Savarese 334-546-8182 (mobile) www.yak-52.com Skype - Yakguy1 On 1/17/2018 12:01 PM, doug sapp wrote: > Dennis, > I do stock a air line fitting which has double male flare ends for use > as a splicer on the 6MM hard lines. P/n is HB4-4-4. It uses the std > B nut which requires a 17MM wrench. > > We also have worked out a nifty air line cap by using the above > fitting, a sleeve/ferrel, a B nut, and a undrilled air line > restricter. Very handy to have when testing systems. > > We also stock a full range of pipe to flare fittings as used on the CJ6. > > Doug > > On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 5:05 PM, A. Dennis Savarese > <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net <mailto:dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>> wrote: > > <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net <mailto:dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>> > > Be careful trying to bend the original tubing. It is very > brittle and can easily crack. > > You could try Doug Sapp for the male to male union. But I can > honestly say I have never seen one (metric with the correct flare). > > The alternative is what I described earlier using the 5052 metric > aluminum tubing. > > A. Dennis Savarese > 334-546-8182 <tel:334-546-8182>(mobile) > www.yak-52.com <http://www.yak-52.com> > Skype - Yakguy1 > > On 1/16/2018 6:40 PM, bmsim wrote: > > <mailto:bmsim@hotmail.com>> > > Yak 52 > > I took the bypass valve out. The bypass button/solenoid was > disabled years ago, but evidently something inside has failed, > allowing air to escape via the open port when the parking > brake is applied. > > > After removing the valve, there is plenty of line to bend it > over and eliminate the bypass valve if I had a male/male > union. Does anyone know where I might be able to get a > male/male flare union that I could plug in after putting the > appropriate angle on the line? I'm having trouble locating > this part so far. > > Thanks Guys, > > Brandon > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477351#477351 > <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477351#477351> > > > =================================== > List" rel="noreferrer" > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List > =================================== > FORUMS - > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > =================================== > WIKI - > errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com > =================================== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > =================================== > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:45:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Super-cool oil temp
    From: "apatton2" <apatton@alumni.princeton.edu>
    Hi All, I recently acquired a Yak-50 from the UK (the former G-JYAK). I continue to work on getting it into tune (have replaced the carburetor and mags with overhauled units). When warm it runs very smoothly and well, developing at least book power (>=8.85 potatoes MP on takeoff). Engine is the stock M14P... only mods are the auto ignition harness and an intake drain kit. However, the oil temp takes a very long time to come up to 40degC on start. Overnight temps in my area (NorCal) get as cold as 5degC but are generally warmer. However, upon pulling the airplane out of the hangar and starting it, oil temp reads zero C, and will take 20min to get to 40 degC. In fact, after as much at 5min after engine start, the oil temp indicator still indicates 0degC. This isn't great as I believe that the prolonged run at low power begins to foul plugs. When it's warmed up and motoring at 82% / 7 potatoes in high-power cruise, oil temp needle tends to "stand straight up" at 70-80deg C. I'm wondering about 2 potential causes: 1. Is there a variable problem with the indicator? I.e. inaccurate at low power settings/low temps but fine at higher power settings. 2. Could there be some abnormal oil circulation, especially at low power settings, that is allowing cold oil to stagnate around the temp probe for awhile, even after startup. Every other indication, as far as I can tell, is normal. CHT temps will come up to ~ 75-100degC while waiting for the oil temp to come up. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Andrew -------- Andrew Patton Yak-50 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477374#477374


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:58:42 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Super-cool oil temp
    From: "bmsim" <bmsim@hotmail.com>
    I'm not an expert, but there's a lot of oil to bring up to temp from those low temps. I don't have to deal with temps quite that low, but I bought an oil heater and a small bathroom heater to help. I turn the heaters on the night before I plan to fly, and oil is much closer to temp when I get ready. I wired the oil heater to a switched female plug that accepts a computer power cord (stays with the Yak), so I just leave the Yak plugged in and switch the heater on and off at the plugin. For the air heater, I found a small 250 watt heater at a department store (walmart) for $10. It is not much bigger than a brick and with slide in/out of the cowl without opening anything up. It is a bit underpowered, but does significantly raise the temp inside the cowl. Not a direct answer to your post, but I just wanted to provide some thoughts on heating. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477375#477375


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:04:58 AM PST US
    From: Ernest Martinez <erniel29@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Super-cool oil temp
    Close the gills. On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 8:47 PM apatton2 <apatton@alumni.princeton.edu> wrote: > > Hi All, > I recently acquired a Yak-50 from the UK (the former G-JYAK). I continue > to work on getting it into tune (have replaced the carburetor and mags with > overhauled units). > > When warm it runs very smoothly and well, developing at least book power > (>=8.85 potatoes MP on takeoff). Engine is the stock M14P... only mods are > the auto ignition harness and an intake drain kit. > > However, the oil temp takes a very long time to come up to 40degC on > start. Overnight temps in my area (NorCal) get as cold as 5degC but are > generally warmer. However, upon pulling the airplane out of the hangar and > starting it, oil temp reads zero C, and will take 20min to get to 40 degC. > In fact, after as much at 5min after engine start, the oil temp indicator > still indicates 0degC. > > This isn't great as I believe that the prolonged run at low power begins > to foul plugs. When it's warmed up and motoring at 82% / 7 potatoes in > high-power cruise, oil temp needle tends to "stand straight up" at 70-80deg > C. > > I'm wondering about 2 potential causes: > 1. Is there a variable problem with the indicator? I.e. inaccurate at low > power settings/low temps but fine at higher power settings. > 2. Could there be some abnormal oil circulation, especially at low power > settings, that is allowing cold oil to stagnate around the temp probe for > awhile, even after startup. > > Every other indication, as far as I can tell, is normal. CHT temps will > come up to ~ 75-100degC while waiting for the oil temp to come up. > > Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks! > Andrew > > -------- > Andrew Patton > Yak-50 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477374#477374 > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 02:34:36 PM PST US
    Subject: M14p, prop shaft oil leak.
    From: "Steve Geard" <stevegeard@xtra.co.nz>
    Can anyone help with front prop shaft seal on my M14p please. During gyroscopic maneuvers my YAK55m is spewing oil everywhere. We have replaced pretty much every O ring and gasket on the engine, the oil looks to be coming from the propshaft exit on the front of engine. I have an engineer who has a suitable tool for refitting the shaft and seal. We are about to take the prop/hub off, and remove the gearbox. Its my understanding the gearbox has to be disassembled to gain access to the front bearing and seal. What else should we look to replace or service whilst we have it all apart. Plus who can supply the seal, and is it prudent to replace the bearings as well ? -------- SteveO Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477377#477377


    Message 9


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    Time: 04:21:31 PM PST US
    Subject: CJ6A POH Request
    From: "PS" <psalter@aol.com>
    Tomorrow... after 4.5 years since purchase, my CJ will hopefully fly. I am in need of a digital POH if one is available. Thanks Phil psalter(at)AOL.com -------- Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477382#477382


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:43:09 PM PST US
    From: "Royden Heays" <heaysr@telus.net>
    Subject: M14p, prop shaft oil leak.
    Have experienced the same thing a few years ago. Do as you said. Remove the prop. Remove the gear case. Ship the gear case to Jill at M-14P.com. They have the nose case prop shaft seals in stock and will remove the oil seal and install an new seal all in good time. And your oil leak problem will be solved. Regards Royden Yak 55M C-GRED -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Geard Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2018 2:34 PM Subject: Yak-List: M14p, prop shaft oil leak. Can anyone help with front prop shaft seal on my M14p please. During gyroscopic maneuvers my YAK55m is spewing oil everywhere. We have replaced pretty much every O ring and gasket on the engine, the oil looks to be coming from the propshaft exit on the front of engine. I have an engineer who has a suitable tool for refitting the shaft and seal. We are about to take the prop/hub off, and remove the gearbox. Its my understanding the gearbox has to be disassembled to gain access to the front bearing and seal. What else should we look to replace or service whilst we have it all apart. Plus who can supply the seal, and is it prudent to replace the bearings as well ? -------- SteveO Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477377#477377


    Message 11


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    Time: 08:01:26 PM PST US
    From: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
    Subject: Super-cool oil temp
    Hello Andrew, A number of the oil coolers have a thermostatic bypass, and I suspect yours is remaining fully open so the entire oil system has to be warmed up before you start getting an indication on the gauge, which will take far longer. Richard Rhodds Farm Lyonshall Hereford HR5 3LW United Kingdom Tel: +94 (0) 81 241 5137 (Sri Lanka) Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120 Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129 www.russianaeros.com Im currently in Sri Lanka but this Mail is working,and my local phone is +94 779 132 160. -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of apatton2 Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2018 12:15 AM Subject: Yak-List: Super-cool oil temp --> <apatton@alumni.princeton.edu> Hi All, I recently acquired a Yak-50 from the UK (the former G-JYAK). I continue to work on getting it into tune (have replaced the carburetor and mags with overhauled units). When warm it runs very smoothly and well, developing at least book power (>=8.85 potatoes MP on takeoff). Engine is the stock M14P... only mods are the auto ignition harness and an intake drain kit. However, the oil temp takes a very long time to come up to 40degC on start. Overnight temps in my area (NorCal) get as cold as 5degC but are generally warmer. However, upon pulling the airplane out of the hangar and starting it, oil temp reads zero C, and will take 20min to get to 40 degC. In fact, after as much at 5min after engine start, the oil temp indicator still indicates 0degC. This isn't great as I believe that the prolonged run at low power begins to foul plugs. When it's warmed up and motoring at 82% / 7 potatoes in high-power cruise, oil temp needle tends to "stand straight up" at 70-80deg C. I'm wondering about 2 potential causes: 1. Is there a variable problem with the indicator? I.e. inaccurate at low power settings/low temps but fine at higher power settings. 2. Could there be some abnormal oil circulation, especially at low power settings, that is allowing cold oil to stagnate around the temp probe for awhile, even after startup. Every other indication, as far as I can tell, is normal. CHT temps will come up to ~ 75-100degC while waiting for the oil temp to come up. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Andrew -------- Andrew Patton Yak-50 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477374#477374 -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.


    Message 12


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    Time: 08:11:00 PM PST US
    From: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
    Subject: M14p, prop shaft oil leak.
    But, quite expensive to ship an entire gearbox to and from New Zealand! Richard Goode Rhodds Farm Lyonshall Hereford HR5 3LW United Kingdom Tel: +94 (0) 81 241 5137 (Sri Lanka) Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120 Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129 www.russianaeros.com Im currently in Sri Lanka but this Mail is working,and my local phone is +94 779 132 160. -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Royden Heays Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2018 9:13 AM Subject: RE: Yak-List: M14p, prop shaft oil leak. Have experienced the same thing a few years ago. Do as you said. Remove the prop. Remove the gear case. Ship the gear case to Jill at M-14P.com. They have the nose case prop shaft seals in stock and will remove the oil seal and install an new seal all in good time. And your oil leak problem will be solved. Regards Royden Yak 55M C-GRED -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Geard Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2018 2:34 PM Subject: Yak-List: M14p, prop shaft oil leak. Can anyone help with front prop shaft seal on my M14p please. During gyroscopic maneuvers my YAK55m is spewing oil everywhere. We have replaced pretty much every O ring and gasket on the engine, the oil looks to be coming from the propshaft exit on the front of engine. I have an engineer who has a suitable tool for refitting the shaft and seal. We are about to take the prop/hub off, and remove the gearbox. Its my understanding the gearbox has to be disassembled to gain access to the front bearing and seal. What else should we look to replace or service whilst we have it all apart. Plus who can supply the seal, and is it prudent to replace the bearings as well ? -------- SteveO Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477377#477377 -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.


    Message 13


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    Time: 08:37:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Super-cool oil temp
    From: "apatton2" <apatton@alumni.princeton.edu>
    Re: "close the gills" - everything is closed (always is on warmup... I have several hundred hours in 50s and 52s). Hi Richard - thanks for the note! My last -50 (a 1982 model with series 1 engine) came up to temp very rapidly and would seem to almost always stay cool. I was wondering if there was any thermostatic regulation function in the oil system other than the manually actuated oil cooler door. Since I haven't seen anything that looked like a bypass valve for the oil cooler, I assumed that wasn't the case (I could be missing it, though). That said, I didn't think it would actually be built into the cooler itself! I'll look again at some of the translated documents that I have to see if any light can be shed on this. But if that's the case and this valve is "stuck" open, then that would explain the observed phenomena. Best, Andrew -------- Andrew Patton Yak-50 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477392#477392


    Message 14


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    Time: 09:44:33 PM PST US
    From: "\"" <cjpilot710@aol.com>
    Subject: Re: Super-cool oil temp
    You might also put a restrictor plate on the oil cooler intake. Jim "Pappy" Goolsby -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Martinez <erniel29@gmail.com> Sent: Wed, Jan 17, 2018 3:38 pm Subject: Re: Yak-List: Super-cool oil temp Close the gills. On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 8:47 PM apatton2 <apatton@alumni.princeton.edu> wro te: Hi All, I recently acquired a Yak-50 from the UK (the former G-JYAK). I continue to work on getting it into tune (have replaced the carburetor and mags with o verhauled units). When warm it runs very smoothly and well, developing at least book power (> =8.85 potatoes MP on takeoff). Engine is the stock M14P... only mods are the auto ignition harness and an intake drain kit. However, the oil temp takes a very long time to come up to 40degC on start. Overnight temps in my area (NorCal) get as cold as 5degC but are generally warmer. However, upon pulling the airplane out of the hangar and starting it, oil temp reads zero C, and will take 20min to get to 40 degC. In fact, after as much at 5min after engine start, the oil temp indicator still indi cates 0degC. This isn't great as I believe that the prolonged run at low power begins to foul plugs. When it's warmed up and motoring at 82% / 7 potatoes in high-p ower cruise, oil temp needle tends to "stand straight up" at 70-80deg C. I'm wondering about 2 potential causes: 1. Is there a variable problem with the indicator? I.e. inaccurate at low p ower settings/low temps but fine at higher power settings. 2. Could there be some abnormal oil circulation, especially at low power se ttings, that is allowing cold oil to stagnate around the temp probe for awh ile, even after startup. Every other indication, as far as I can tell, is normal. CHT temps will com e up to ~ 75-100degC while waiting for the oil temp to come up. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Andrew -------- Andrew Patton Yak-50 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477374#477374 List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigat or?Yak-List FORUMS - eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com WIKI - errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com b Site - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution


    Message 15


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    Time: 10:19:31 PM PST US
    From: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
    Subject: Re: Super-cool oil temp
    Hello Andrew, I'm in Sri Lanka and therefore don't have access to all my technical papers in the UK. But I am pretty sure that all or some of the oil coolers have a thermostatic bypass valve, and until this opens, no oil goes through the oil cooler. I suspect yours is sticking, and therefore the oil is continuing to circulate through the oil cooler, and that is your problem. I will investigate this more and that you know options, but I suspect we could obtain a new valve. Regards Richard Rhodds Farm Lyonshall Hereford HR5 3LW United Kingdom Tel: +94 (0) 81 241 5137 (Sri Lanka) Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120 Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129 www.russianaeros.com Im currently in Sri Lanka but this Mail is working,and my local phone is +94 779 132 160. -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of apatton2 Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2018 10:07 AM Subject: Yak-List: Re: Super-cool oil temp --> <apatton@alumni.princeton.edu> Re: "close the gills" - everything is closed (always is on warmup... I have several hundred hours in 50s and 52s). Hi Richard - thanks for the note! My last -50 (a 1982 model with series 1 engine) came up to temp very rapidly and would seem to almost always stay cool. I was wondering if there was any thermostatic regulation function in the oil system other than the manually actuated oil cooler door. Since I haven't seen anything that looked like a bypass valve for the oil cooler, I assumed that wasn't the case (I could be missing it, though). That said, I didn't think it would actually be built into the cooler itself! I'll look again at some of the translated documents that I have to see if any light can be shed on this. But if that's the case and this valve is "stuck" open, then that would explain the observed phenomena. Best, Andrew -------- Andrew Patton Yak-50 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477392#477392 -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.


    Message 16


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    Time: 10:56:39 PM PST US
    From: Jay McIntyre <cjaviator@gmail.com>
    Subject: M-14 powered CJ-6 engine ground run form
    Hi all. We are now looking after New Zealand's only M-14 powered CJ and I was wondering if anyone had a decent maintenance ground run form with all the appropriate limits and so forth they would be willing to send me at cjaviator@gmail.com Regards, Jay




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