Today's Message Index:
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0. 04:14 AM - [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... (Matt Dralle)
1. 06:02 AM - Gill shutters close themselves at cruise (motoadve)
2. 11:33 AM - Sticking Valves (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD)
3. 03:22 PM - Airport Courtesy Cars Update-Not Topic Related (gbrasch)
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| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that ilk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, Commercial-greade
Internet Connection, air conditioning, maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc.
I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser each year during the month of November
where I simply send out a short email every other day asking the members to make
a small contribution to support the operation. That being said, that contribution
is completely voluntary and non-compulsory. Many members choose not
to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Message 1
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| Subject: | Gill shutters close themselves at cruise |
I am new to the CJ6 , but flying it as much as I can.(already put 16 hrs in 2 weeks).
Something I noticed is when at cruise the gill shutters close themselves, is this
how is meant to be?
I open them (its a bit hard to turn when at cruise) and they close again.
CHT temp is not an issue (below 200), but wanted to know if this is how it works.
The cabin air opens by itself all the time (I know is not how is meant to be) how
do I make that more tight?
Lastly, do we have any sort of cabin heat? I bought the manual, and in a section
it is mentioned.
--------
www.Backcuountry182.com
Cessna 182 P
CJ -6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=484567#484567
Message 2
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Dennis Savarese recently sent me a message correcting what I said regarding "sticking
valves" and pointed out that varnish being deposited on the valve stem
can (and will) cause valves to stick, and that adding MMO to the oil can and will
cure this. He also mentioned that sticking valves are usually not caused
by carbon buildup. What he really did was point out that the Devil is in the
Details per se. So here is the longer more detailed reply.
So, ..... I misspoke. I talked about sticking valves being caused by carbon buildup.
Well...,. yes, but I should have said "lead" instead of "carbon" and I
should have talked to Dennis first. The real question is, just what does a "sticky
valve" actually refer to?
Two things actually..... in my mind anyway. First is what Dennis referred to where
varnish builds up on the valve stem, the valve then no longer slides through
the valve guide easily and thus can "stick" without fully closing. MMO in
the *OIL* (as he said) will reduce/cure or eliminate this to a large degree.
The second situation is where the valve does not fully close for another reason,
and this is what I was addressing in what I wrote earlier. Typically this
happens to an exhaust valve, and the reason it does not fully close is due to
a buildup on the exhaust seat which sort of "wedges" the valve open a little
bit. This can be a really bad thing, because hot exhaust gases formed during combustion
tend to squirt out of this slightly open valve and can erode the valve
seat. Depending on the severity of this erosion it can either be fixed by
removing the cylinder and lapping the valve, or in the worst case, replacing the
whole cylinder. This kind of thing is commonly found during a compression
check where air is heard leaking out of the cylinder into the exhaust and sometimes
can be cured by "staking" the valve in the hopes of being able to break
loose the offending particle and allowing the valve to close and seal again.
What do you call a valve that does this? I have always referred to it as a "sticking
valve". Well in truth, it is not "sticking" it is a valve that is not
seating properly, so my bad. In most cases, what causes this is lead/carbon
being deposited on the valve seat and even the valve itself. This happened to
me on three cylinders because I was running the engine cylinder head temperatures
too cool, and I was not adding MMO to the fuel. Running the engine harder
and adding MMO solved this issue for me. Of course this brings up the old MMO
postings from over a decade or so, which got somewhat out of hand. :-)
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 5:04 PM
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Engine running rough at high power settings?
I agree with everything Mark said, except for one minor thing.
With regard to a sticking valve, it is typically not caused by carbon buildup.
It is caused by varnish buildup on the valve stem and valve guide. Excessive
varnish, when hot, causes the valve stem to "stick" as it moves up and down in
the valve guide. MMO in the oil (remember the valve stem and valve guide are
lubricated by oil which when overheated, causes varnish to form), will help
remove the varnish on the stem and guide. The more "slop" or wear their is between
the valve guide and the valve stem, the higher the probability of varnish
build up. The hotter the valve and valve stem get, the more sticky they get
when varnish is present.
Dennis
Message 3
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| Subject: | Airport Courtesy Cars Update-Not Topic Related |
Last November I stated I would only bother you with a fund raising email once a
year, so here we are a year later. Airport Courtesy Cars relies about 75% on
user donations. If you use the site, please consider a small donation. Currently
the site lists over 1,900 cars nationwide, 100 MOGAS locations, over 60
pictures of the cars themselves and several airport cafes. Also this past year
all the airport IDs are now links to AirNav. I rely on your input to keep the
site up to date. Secure donations can be made using the PayPal links on the
site or our mailing address, Airport Courtesy Cars LLC. POB 85762, Tucson, Arizona
85754. Thank you, Glenn Airportcars101 (at) gmail.com
** Do Not Archive **
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Owner, "Airport Courtesy Cars" Website www.airportcourtesycars.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=484620#484620
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