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1. 12:54 PM - Re: Re: Snot valve, constantly builds pressure. Normal/Not? (Warren Hill)
2. 09:53 PM - Re: Re: Snot valve, constantly builds pressure. Normal/Not? (Roger Kemp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Snot valve, constantly builds pressure. Normal/Not? |
Hank,
Some have not had good luck with the Swagelok check valves. One member
of our group had four of these fail on a trip to Oskkosh several years
ago. The more robust Chinese replacements are still working. Where
Swagelok does a great job is for replacing the original Chinese main and
emergency air on-off valves as described by Jason Berman. Mine have been
fine for years. The smaller size requires two simple adaptors so the
connecting air lines don=99t have to be re-done. Attached is a
picture of my emergency on-off valve with adaptors that duplicate the
original line positions. For those who have not yet done this
replacement, the current black handle valve for the main air is part
number SS-42GF2-A-WN2 and the red handle part number is
SS-42GF2-A-RD-WN2. Replace and forget. Really nice. One less thing to
cause problems.
Warren Hill
N464TW
Mesa, AZ
> On Nov 21, 2018, at 1:30 PM, Hank Gibson <hkgibby@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Brandon-
>
> You could also replace all check valves with Swagelok check valves
which are an easy drop in. Problems solved and no more fiddling with
rubber discs/crush seals and bodies which loosen. All six for about
$280. To me worth the price to improve health of pneumatic system. Old
nipples with flare are transferred and work with a 1/8=9D NPT
Swagelok. Part number is =9CSS-2C4-xx (last number is =9Ccrac
king pressure=9D which is not critical, may be 1/3, 1, 10 and 25 ,
I believe). See pics.
> <image1.jpeg>
>
> <image3.jpeg>
> Sent from my iPhone<image4.jpeg>
> Good luck- Hoot
>
>
> On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:18 PM, Warren Hill <hill@doctor-hill.com
<mailto:hill@doctor-hill.com>> wrote:
>
>> Brandon,
>>
>> On occasion, after rebuilding the CJ check valves, they will continue
to leak for a week or two. The hard rubber disk over the metal cap on
top of the spring may take a while to properly seat. Soaking the hard
rubber cap in glycerine sometimes helps. A few will continue to leak no
matter what and need to be replaced. A simple test of individual check
values before going through the trouble of installing them is to connect
an air pressure gauge via a B-nut on the outflow side and then
pressurize the inflow side to 50 ATM (735 PSI). After turning off and
removing the air source, the pressure on the outflow side should hold. A
common point of failure and annoyance is on the right side of the oil
tank where a pair of check valves separate air flow into the main and
the emergency systems.
>>
>> It=99s also not a bad idea to replace check values that have
been in place for a long time. The amount of internal corrosion can be
astonishing. Attached is a picture of what typical check valve corrosion
looks like.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Warren Hill
>> N464TW
>> Mesa, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>> <Check_Valve.jpg>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Nov 21, 2018, at 11:22 AM, Hank Gibson <hkgibby@yahoo.com
<mailto:hkgibby@yahoo.com>> wrote:
>>>
<mailto:hkgibby@yahoo.com>>
>>>
>>> Hi Brandon-
>>>
>>> Yes a vise will help in disassembly and rebuild of your check valves
and pop off valve. You really ought to have the CJ parts manuals.
Refer to Parts Book Vol 1, pages 442-448 for all things check valves.
Will all make sense. I sent you Vol 1 direct to your email.
>>>
>>> Hoot
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Nov 21, 2018, at 12:37 PM, bmsim <bmsim@hotmail.com
<mailto:bmsim@hotmail.com>> wrote:
>>>>
<mailto:bmsim@hotmail.com>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks guys!
>>>>
>>>> I have rebuild kits and filter for the T assembly. For the
individual sides, do the check valves just screw apart? I disassembled
the T the other day and tried to take one of the valves apart but it was
so hard to turn that it appears to need a vise. I didn't know if that's
normal or if I'd be tearing something up, so I stopped until I could
ask.
>>>>
>>>> Should the individual sides of the T assembly require a vise to
disassemble, or am I missing something on how to disassemble?
>>>>
>>>> Brandon
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485478#485478
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485478#485478>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List>
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com <http://wiki.matronics.com/>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Snot valve, constantly builds pressure. Normal/Not? |
CJ or YAK? The YAK check valves that have been in use for a few bears are a bitch
to get apart. I personally think they use epoxy on the groves. It takes a vice
and a torc to get them apart on occasion. Be prepared to replace all of the
guts in that case.
You can just send them to Cliff Coy to rebuild with Parker air system parts. They
hone the case to do that.
Or you could replace the with Dzongkha Sapps Kit.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 21, 2018, at 11:37 AM, bmsim <bmsim@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks guys!
>
> I have rebuild kits and filter for the T assembly. For the individual sides,
do the check valves just screw apart? I disassembled the T the other day and
tried to take one of the valves apart but it was so hard to turn that it appears
to need a vise. I didn't know if that's normal or if I'd be tearing something
up, so I stopped until I could ask.
>
> Should the individual sides of the T assembly require a vise to disassemble,
or am I missing something on how to disassemble?
>
> Brandon
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485478#485478
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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