Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:37 AM - Re: Prolonged idling/taxiing (AlaskaChang801)
2. 11:42 AM - Re: CJ6A Air schematic (AlaskaChang801)
3. 03:24 PM - Re: CJ6 prop blade leakage (Paul Lewis)
4. 04:02 PM - Re: CJ6 prop blade leakage (Justin Drafts)
5. 05:10 PM - Re: Oil Temp/Oil Press/Fuel Press Triple gauge (Walter Lannon)
6. 05:10 PM - Re: Oil Temp/Oil Press/Fuel Press Triple gauge (Walter Lannon)
7. 05:42 PM - Re: Prolonged idling/taxiing (stephen.hayne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Prolonged idling/taxiing |
stephen.hayne wrote:
> If plug fouling is the concern, this can be "fixed" by decoupling the mixture
from the throttle, and leaning aggressively on the ground. Takes about an hour,
and some people reverse the arm on the carb so that it operates like a US
mixture. After 80 hours unreversed, and making one almost mistake on a go-around
(pushing everything forward), I think I going to do mine that way.
So you bring up a question I've had for a while now and quite honestly, I've been
happy to be ignorant on the situation. So I think it's time to clarify this
for me.
I bought my CJ and it had been modified in the way you mentioned. So when I go
forward on my mixture lever I'm going to FULL Rich. I typically run mine forward
for "start" and pull it back about half way for taxi. Full forward for the
run up and takeoff. Then I'm pulling it back to about half way or a little further
for cruise. Again forward for landing and half back after rollout and up
to parking.
So my question is ?? Is this an ok way to run it? with not having a EGT to monitor
I'm cautious of pulling to far Lean and have been warned not to so that I
don't burn up the exhaust valves.
Also, how far back should I bring it for cruise and should I adjust that based
on cruise altitude. Again not having an EGT how do I determine what's safe and
not leaning out too much.
Thanks for your input
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491791#491791
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| Subject: | Re: CJ6A Air schematic |
I copied this from Dougs webpage, so I don't know if it'll be HiRes enough for
what you want, but I guess you can try.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491792#491792
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cj_pneumatic_system_schematic_diagram_148.bmp
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: CJ6 prop blade leakage |
Justin, Walt Lannon will be at the Tonasket Airport tomorrow morning at
nine to help me with my prop shaft seals. If you want to fly over & be
involved, your are welcome to.
Paul
On Thu, Oct 10, 2019 at 5:51 PM Justin Drafts <draftsjust417@gmail.com>
wrote:
> If anyone is doing such prop work in the Pacific NW area in the future,
> I'd very much like to come and watch/assist... ?
>
> Justin
> N280NC
> Seattle
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 11, 2019 at 5:12 AM Anthony Savarese <
> dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>> dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> First determine if there is oil inside the hub when you pull the prop hu
m
>> dome and piston. If there is, replace both the inner and outer seal on t
he
>> piston.
>>
>> Oil inside the hub will spew out on to the blade roots when the prop is
>> spinning. Oil inside the hub is caused by a weak inner piston seal.
>>
>> Check your log books for the last time the hub was disassembled, cleaned
>> and all bearings and races regreased. If it hasn=99t been done in
the last
>> 200 hours, it would be a good idea to do so.
>>
>> Also check the log book to see if the collet seals have been replaced in
>> the last 600-750 hours. Again, if there is no record of it being done, i
t
>> would be recommended they be replaced as well.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Oct 10, 2019, at 10:05 AM, Okanogan Lew <vplewis@community.org>
>> wrote:
>> >
nity.org>
>> >
>> > Guys, I have noticed a heavy grease seeping from the propeller hub ont
o
>> the blades of on my CJ6. I assume there is a seal that needs to be
>> replaced. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491734#491734
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CJ6 prop blade leakage |
Ah that sounds great, but alas, I'm still over here in Afghanistan until
early Nov.
A bit of a long commute!
Please do snap lots of pix, I'd be VERY grateful to see all the steps!
Thanks for the invite, I'm sure your prop will be up to speed asap-
Justin
On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 2:58 AM Paul Lewis <okanoganlew@gmail.com> wrote:
> Justin, Walt Lannon will be at the Tonasket Airport tomorrow morning at
> nine to help me with my prop shaft seals. If you want to fly over & be
> involved, your are welcome to.
>
> Paul
>
> On Thu, Oct 10, 2019 at 5:51 PM Justin Drafts <draftsjust417@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> If anyone is doing such prop work in the Pacific NW area in the future,
>> I'd very much like to come and watch/assist... ?
>>
>> Justin
>> N280NC
>> Seattle
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 11, 2019 at 5:12 AM Anthony Savarese <
>> dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>>> dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> First determine if there is oil inside the hub when you pull the prop
>>> hum dome and piston. If there is, replace both the inner and outer seal
on
>>> the piston.
>>>
>>> Oil inside the hub will spew out on to the blade roots when the prop is
>>> spinning. Oil inside the hub is caused by a weak inner piston seal.
>>>
>>> Check your log books for the last time the hub was disassembled, cleane
d
>>> and all bearings and races regreased. If it hasn=99t been done in
the last
>>> 200 hours, it would be a good idea to do so.
>>>
>>> Also check the log book to see if the collet seals have been replaced i
n
>>> the last 600-750 hours. Again, if there is no record of it being done,
it
>>> would be recommended they be replaced as well.
>>>
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Oct 10, 2019, at 10:05 AM, Okanogan Lew <vplewis@community.org>
>>> wrote:
>>> >
unity.org
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Guys, I have noticed a heavy grease seeping from the propeller hub
>>> onto the blades of on my CJ6. I assume there is a seal that needs to be
>>> replaced. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Read this topic online here:
>>> >
>>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491734#491734
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temp/Oil Press/Fuel Press Triple gauge |
Both of these guages rely on a temperature probe. An internal probe failure
typically results in a maximum reading as does an open circuit in the
connection plug or a broken wire.
Checking the engine oil temp. probe could be as simple as switching from oil
in to oil out since that is two different probes.
Walt
-----Original Message-----
From: 727gs
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 5:57 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Oil Temp/Oil Press/Fuel Press Triple gauge
Anyone got a functional spare they'd like to get rid of? My rear gauge
doesn't read O/T anymore, just maxes out high. Same as the Carb Temp if
you've got one of those you'd like to part with, too.
Thanks in advance,
Steve near Chicago
--------
Steve near Chicago
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491758#491758
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temp/Oil Press/Fuel Press Triple gauge |
Both of these guages rely on a temperature probe. An internal probe failure
typically results in a maximum reading as does an open circuit in the
connection plug or a broken wire.
Checking the engine oil temp. probe could be as simple as switching from oil
in to oil out since that is two different probes.
Walt
-----Original Message-----
From: 727gs
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 5:57 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Oil Temp/Oil Press/Fuel Press Triple gauge
Anyone got a functional spare they'd like to get rid of? My rear gauge
doesn't read O/T anymore, just maxes out high. Same as the Carb Temp if
you've got one of those you'd like to part with, too.
Thanks in advance,
Steve near Chicago
--------
Steve near Chicago
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491758#491758
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Prolonged idling/taxiing |
This is a bit tricky to answer, because it depends on how the "cruise" mixture
screw has been set, and how the "idle" mixture screw has been set. There are
manual pages describing how to set these, but at 5000', I was running too rich
at idle. So, I turned the idle "in" (righty tighty), 3 clicks. Seems better.
Then I did the same for the "cruise" screw (before installing an MGL FF3). Then,
at pattern altitude, on downwind, I would "push" (or pull in your case), the
mixture forward until I got noticeable power/speed reduction. Engine won't
fail, or sputter, but it will just "fade". If that happened when I was almost
at the stop, I feel like that is good, because then I can lean quite a bit at
altitude for cruise.
After installing the FF3, I now lean for about 2.6gph at idle (noticeable idle
rpm rise), and then for whatever the book calls for at cruise, plus just a little
because it seems to be too slow at those gph... :)
I don't think you can hurt the engine much, since it is carbureted. Tough to get
too "lean of peak". Read up about the 182 and "lean of peak" if you want a
controversy.
You are likely at sea level, so I think that full rich at TO and LDNG is very smart.
But, I think you can play with the settings a bit (clicks) and if you can get the
engine to significantly slow just as you get to full lean, then you might be
in the sweet spot. Look for an RPM rise, an inch before getting to full lean,
maybe?
--------
-
Stephen Hayne, Professor, CIS, Colorado State University
666CJA
http://selfsynchronize.com/hayne/plane/cj6.asp
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=491801#491801
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