Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:37 AM - Engine mount ch701 (Rodgers, Robert)
2. 09:06 AM - Re: Engine mount ch701 (Gary Gower)
3. 11:49 AM - lengthening 701 wings (Victor Philip du Preez)
4. 11:52 AM - Re: Jabiru Electrical Budget (Grant Corriveau)
5. 12:48 PM - stabilizer (Carlos Sa)
6. 01:06 PM - Re: stabilizer (JEEdmondson@aol.com)
7. 01:30 PM - Re: lengthening 701 wings (F. Hostettler)
8. 01:36 PM - Use of Unibit to Drill through thicker material, like .093 extrusion (Steve Danielson)
9. 02:47 PM - Re: Use of Unibit to Drill through thicker material, like .093 e... (randewilbers1@aol.com)
10. 02:49 PM - Skin drilling (Aaron)
11. 03:17 PM - Re: Skin drilling (Aaron)
12. 05:05 PM - Re: lengthening 701 wings (Gary Gower)
13. 05:06 PM - Re: stabilizer (Carl Bertrand)
14. 05:09 PM - Re: Skin drilling (Matthew Mucker)
15. 05:14 PM - Re: stabilizer (Gary Gower)
16. 07:16 PM - Re: stabilizer (Larry C. McFarland)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Engine mount ch701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rodgers, Robert" <RODGERR@tc.gc.ca>
Hi All,
Does anyone have access to someone ( preferably Canadian ) that can
make an engine mount for the 701 and 912 combination for a reasonable price?
I'm going to put in a Geo/Raven redrive combination mounted horizontally and
it looks like the best platform to start from would be the 912 mount. I
imagine that I'll have to change it some, but the should be about the same.
Thanks
Rob
CH701 scratch building.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount ch701 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Hi Robert,
We will appreciate very much to keep us updated in your instalation, I
think that the Geo Raven conversion is a winner, at least in several
trikes has lots of trouble free hours, I have been in the Geo list for
a while.
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S kit
--- "Rodgers, Robert" <RODGERR@tc.gc.ca> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rodgers, Robert"
> <RODGERR@tc.gc.ca>
>
> Hi All,
> Does anyone have access to someone ( preferably Canadian )
> that can
> make an engine mount for the 701 and 912 combination for a reasonable
> price?
> I'm going to put in a Geo/Raven redrive combination mounted
> horizontally and
> it looks like the best platform to start from would be the 912 mount.
> I
> imagine that I'll have to change it some, but the should be about the
> same.
>
> Thanks
> Rob
> CH701 scratch building.
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | lengthening 701 wings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Victor Philip du Preez" <vdp@absamail.co.za>
I hope you can help me. In September 1999 CLAUDE posted this on the Zenith List.
At that time his e-mail address was claude.plathey@wanadoo.fr but is redundant
now.
7. THE modification I should have made Build a 9.80m span wing instead of 8.22m.
Due to old UL regs now obsolete here, most 701s built in France had to have this
span. They fly MUCH better, I know a 701 with a Hirth F30 which is a HELL of STOL
and lands (in clean) within a handkerchief.
Could you please elaborate on this comment regarding what should be done to the
wing structure
to accommodate the lengthening of the wing. Where can I get more information?
Anybody still
have contact with Claude?
Thank you,
Victor du Preez
701 plans build, Pretoria, South Africa
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Electrical Budget |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau <grantC@ca.inter.net>
on 02/12/15 12:43, ac6qj@earthlink.net at ac6qj@earthlink.net wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: ac6qj@earthlink.net
>
> Hello List,
>
> I've been considering a Jabiru 3300 engine installation but am
> disappointed by the engine's electrical generating capacity of 40
> watts (i.e. 20 Amps at 13.8). A reasonable plan for avionics and
> lighting is shown below. The worse case operational scenario places
> the Jabiru 3300 electrical budget at a 117 watt deficit.
A nice budget analysis, but you shouldn't consider this a normal, continuous
load. For example, how long will you be transmitting on the Comm radio? A
few seconds at a time, usually. How long will your landing light be ON? A
few minutes at a time - or a bit longer if you are flying circuits?
How much time is your intercom actually demanding full power (i.e. more
silence than talking hopefully). Does the transponder pull that power
fulltime, or just in pulses when it replies to the interrogation?
I'd hazard a wag (wildass guess) that the average fulltime load would be
more like 15 amps with pulses to 20+ for short durations. Also if the
alternator is rated at 20 amps continuous, it probably has some sort of
short term capability to go beyond this (depending upon rpm?)... without
hurting anything. And then there's the battery, as someone else has
mentioned already...
Also,fwiw, I have a 60 amp alternator on my CAM100, but I don't recall
seeing it ever go above 15 amps or so, and that was just to recharge the
batteries after they'd been run down a bit. Mind you I don't have all the
postion/interour lights yet, that you list.
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Hello, all
I am about ready to start drilling the stabilizer skin, when I remembered a problem
I had when building the rudder:
As the drill bit goes through the skin, it presses the rib flange down, which flexes
a bit before the hole gets drilled. This results on the flange's hole being
misaligned with the hole on the skin.
After discarding one rib, I avoided the problem by placing wood blocks under the
rib
flange.
I'm sure I'm not the first one to have this problem - how did others go about it??
Also, since I am already writing, how did (scratch builders) elect to drill the
skin?
I see two basic alternatives: lay the skin flat on the workbench, measure and drill
pilot holes.
Or, position the skin on the skelleton, measure and drill.
I don't feel either is particularly precise ...
Ideas?
Thanks in advance
Carlos
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
Message 6
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: JEEdmondson@aol.com
your pressing too hard. use a very light touch.
Jimmy Edmondson
<A HREF="mailto:jeedmondson@aol.com">jeedmondson@aol.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: lengthening 701 wings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "F. Hostettler" <f.hostettler@gmx.ch>
You wrote:
I hope you can help me. In September 1999 CLAUDE posted this on the Zenith
List.
At that time his e-mail address was claude.plathey@wanadoo.fr but is
redundant now.
7. THE modification I should have made Build a 9.80m span wing instead of
8.22m.
Due to old UL regs now obsolete here, most 701s built in France had to have
this
span. They fly MUCH better, I know a 701 with a Hirth F30 which is a HELL of
STOL
and lands (in clean) within a handkerchief.
Could you please elaborate on this comment regarding what should be done to
the wing structure
to accommodate the lengthening of the wing. Where can I get more
information? Anybody still
have contact with Claude?
Thank you,
Victor du Preez
701 plans build, Pretoria, South Africa
------------------------------------------------------
Hi Victor,
Claude's email address is as follows:
cplathey@club-internet.fr
Kind regards,
Fredy
http://www.zenair.buz.ch
.
--
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more http://www.gmx.net +++
NEU: Mit GMX ins Internet. Rund um die Uhr fr 1 ct/ Min. surfen!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Use of Unibit to Drill through thicker material, like .093 |
extrusion
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Danielson" <steved@nc.rr.com>
I had a weird scratch appear on the backside of a piece of .093 extrusion
that I drilled (through a size 20 pilot hole) to 1/4" using a drill press
and the unibit that has only about 5 size, but each size cutting area is
around 10mm or so long (it is the long and skinny unibit, not the short &
fat ones that have a bunch of sizes) I sent Nick a picture of the scratch
and asked his opinion, he said he couldn't see the scratch, and not to use
the Unibit to drill through thicker material like that extrusion, only
through sheet. I thought the long skinny unibit was for drilling through
thicker material, that's why each size had about the 10mm length. I don't
mind using "regular" drill bits but I am wondering why I got that long
unibit (the fat ones have all the same sizes as this long one) if not for
drilling through thicker material.
Any thoughts?
Steve
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Use of Unibit to Drill through thicker material, like |
.093 e...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: randewilbers1@aol.com
Steve: Are both "unibits" manufactured by the same company? Since the patent
ran out on the unibit, a number of companies, including several Chinese, have
made their version of the tool. I was an acquaintance of the original
designer in Kansas City. He owned Beaver Drill and Tool and I owned Helco
Precision Cutting Tools.
I would use a step drill for the larger sizes in thicker material. The small
diameter should be approximately 2/3rds of the large of finish diameter, and
the length of step should be .050" longer than the maximum thickness of the
material to be drilled. The pilot (step) portion should have a split point
and be 118 degree included angle. The "split" at the chisel angle should be 4
degree positive. This will give you a hole that will not have a periferral
extrusion on the exit side and the hole size should be within .002" of the
finish drill portion.
The reason that the unibit isn't recommended for the thicker sizes is that
there isn't any "elevator" action for the chip ejection with a straight flute
drill such as the unibit. Sometimes the chips roll in the flute and a burr
may be pushed out the backside or exit side. And chips rotating in the flute
would not break up into manageable sizes and could rotate and scratch.
Hope this info helps.
Dick Wilbers St.Louis
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
> As the drill bit goes through the skin, it presses the rib flange down,
which flexes
The best drill I've used for drilling skins is one I made from discarded
auto heater motors. They run and start very fast so you don't need to center
punch, but don't use your fingers to temporarily back up cause you'll drill
holes in your fingers, they,re that fast.
I tapped a piece of tubing on the shaft and then epoxied a bit in the tube.
One motor for each size drill. Cheap at the salvage yard.
Use a good switch $4 or $5 at Ace hardware. I use a small battery that I
carry around (motorcycle).
These motors run about 10,000 RPM no load, no drill motors, even the
cheapies run that fast!
Aaron
601 HDTD plans 75% SUB
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Skin drilling |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
If you want to see a picture let me know off list
Aaron
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: lengthening 701 wings |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Hello Victor,
I found his construction page:
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/f.pocino/Multiaxes/zenair-plathey.htm
His e-mail is the same... sorry.
******
In this page there is an article writen by Claude, maybe they have his
newer e-mail:
http://www.lagoon.nc/apnc/sommaire.htm
*****
Another e-mail: cplathey@club-internet.fr (this one is from another
list) is an old one, maybe still he reads it.
***
Hope this helps,
Saludos
Gary Gower
Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico
701 912S Kit.
--- Victor Philip du Preez <vdp@absamail.co.za> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Victor Philip du Preez"
> <vdp@absamail.co.za>
>
> I hope you can help me. In September 1999 CLAUDE posted this on the
> Zenith List.
> At that time his e-mail address was claude.plathey@wanadoo.fr but is
> redundant now.
>
> 7. THE modification I should have made Build a 9.80m span wing
> instead of 8.22m.
> Due to old UL regs now obsolete here, most 701s built in France had
> to have this
> span. They fly MUCH better, I know a 701 with a Hirth F30 which is a
> HELL of STOL
> and lands (in clean) within a handkerchief.
>
> Could you please elaborate on this comment regarding what should be
> done to the wing structure
> to accommodate the lengthening of the wing. Where can I get more
> information? Anybody still
> have contact with Claude?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Victor du Preez
> 701 plans build, Pretoria, South Africa
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Carl Bertrand" <cgbrt@mondenet.com>
Hi Carlos.
From your short post I sense that you may be drilling both the skin and rib
in one operation. I have found that if you start by marking (wide line) the
center of the rib flange and mark the top of the skin where the rib should
be positioned, you can then start with a pilot holes through the skin to
center the flange using the center line, then drill the pilot through the
flange and cleco. You need a good sharp drill for these pilot holes and
gentle pressure for the first one in the line so as not to bend the flange.
If you use a cleco in the last hole you've drilled it will help to stabilize
the flange while your drilling the one next to it.
Any minor misalignment will be corrected when you drill to the final rivet
size.
Hope this helps,
Carl
701/912/amphibs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: stabilizer
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am about ready to start drilling the stabilizer skin, when I remembered
a problem
> I had when building the rudder:
> As the drill bit goes through the skin, it presses the rib flange down,
which flexes
> a bit before the hole gets drilled. This results on the flange's hole
being
> misaligned with the hole on the skin.
> After discarding one rib, I avoided the problem by placing wood blocks
under the rib
> flange.
>
> I'm sure I'm not the first one to have this problem - how did others go
about it??
>
> Also, since I am already writing, how did (scratch builders) elect to
drill the
> skin?
> I see two basic alternatives: lay the skin flat on the workbench, measure
and drill
> pilot holes.
> Or, position the skin on the skelleton, measure and drill.
>
> I don't feel either is particularly precise ...
>
> Ideas?
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Carlos
>
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
> UMIDS FROM ADDRESS: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>
>
Message 14
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matthew Mucker" <matthew@mucker.net>
Aaron,
This sounds interesting enough that I think we'd all like to see a picture
ON-list! :)
Please post one using the list's photoshare feature. This sounds VERY
intruiging!
-Matt
do not archive.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Aaron
> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 5:17 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Skin drilling
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
>
> If you want to see a picture let me know off list
>
> Aaron
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 15
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
He had the same problem, but only in the first hole...
We use a variable speed drill, we use low speed and try as little
preassure as possible, once the skin is drilled. It takes just a few
seconds more, but the flange will not bend.
We position the skins on the skeleton and messure.
Another good thing is to put some masking tape on the drill bit to
avoid hitting the skin with the chuck, the mark of the chuck around the
rivett is not professional :-)
Saludos
Gary Gower.
--- Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am about ready to start drilling the stabilizer skin, when I
> remembered a problem
> I had when building the rudder:
> As the drill bit goes through the skin, it presses the rib flange
> down, which flexes
> a bit before the hole gets drilled. This results on the flange's hole
> being
> misaligned with the hole on the skin.
> After discarding one rib, I avoided the problem by placing wood
> blocks under the rib
> flange.
>
> I'm sure I'm not the first one to have this problem - how did others
> go about it??
>
> Also, since I am already writing, how did (scratch builders) elect to
> drill the
> skin?
> I see two basic alternatives: lay the skin flat on the workbench,
> measure and drill
> pilot holes.
> Or, position the skin on the skelleton, measure and drill.
>
> I don't feel either is particularly precise ...
>
> Ideas?
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Carlos
>
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Carlos,
I too tried to do what you describe on my rudder and the last hole
walked right off the flange and cut a nice slot in the skin. Started over.
It's much more practical to lay out the ribs on the skin after measuring
for centers of the ribs and marking these centers on the flanges. Set
your interval and make consistent pitches work around the crimps and
drill the skin flat on the table one side only. With the skin bent, match
the folded skin, cleco to the table and match drill the holes thru the first
pattern. Then tighten the skin on the skeleton and ink mark the holes thru
the skin when the rib centerlines are visible thru the holes. Remove the
skin and drill or punch each hole in the rib accurately. Cleco and then
check for
defects. Debur, prime and rivet.
Hope this helps.
Larry C. McFarland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: stabilizer
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am about ready to start drilling the stabilizer skin, when I remembered
a problem
> I had when building the rudder:
> As the drill bit goes through the skin, it presses the rib flange down,
which flexes
> a bit before the hole gets drilled. This results on the flange's hole
being
> misaligned with the hole on the skin.
> After discarding one rib, I avoided the problem by placing wood blocks
under the rib
> flange.
>
> I'm sure I'm not the first one to have this problem - how did others go
about it??
>
> Also, since I am already writing, how did (scratch builders) elect to
drill the
> skin?
> I see two basic alternatives: lay the skin flat on the workbench, measure
and drill
> pilot holes.
> Or, position the skin on the skelleton, measure and drill.
>
> I don't feel either is particularly precise ...
>
> Ideas?
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Carlos
>
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