Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:33 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (Lowell Metz)
2. 06:33 AM - Sight guage advice (Dr. Perry Morrison)
3. 06:49 AM - Re: Sight guage advice (Randall Stout)
4. 06:57 AM - Re: Re: Corvairs (dan john)
5. 07:45 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (Randy L. Thwing)
6. 08:19 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (Winston Ellis)
7. 09:43 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (mark.townsend)
8. 10:45 AM - Re: Sight guage advice (Bill Morelli)
9. 11:38 AM - Re: cutting alum bar (Scott Laughlin)
10. 12:24 PM - Canopy lock and stering slot covers (Tim & Diane Shankland)
11. 03:13 PM - 701 bungee? (ZSMITH3rd@aol.com)
12. 03:18 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (Aaron)
13. 03:48 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (David & Maria Lumgair)
14. 03:54 PM - Re: Keep It Simple Fred (Bryan Martin)
15. 03:59 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (Brian Caithcart)
16. 04:37 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (John Montgomery)
17. 07:18 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (David & Maria Lumgair)
18. 07:25 PM - Re: cutting alum bar (George Swinford)
19. 07:29 PM - Re:cutting bar stock (Dave and Pam Fisher)
20. 08:44 PM - Re: Keep It Simple Fred (Gary Gower)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Lowell Metz <lowellmetz@earthlink.net>
Alex,
You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw
using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. Wear a long
sleeved shirt and good eye protection. I have seen my friend cut 3/4 inch
aluminum this way for years.
At 06:28 PM 2/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: alex trent <atrent7@cogeco.ca>
>
> My 601 wheel forks are built of 1/4" 6061 t6 flat stock. I would like
>to make new ones "as per drawing" of 3/16 with 3/16 doublers. The major
>problem is how do you cut this material when you don't have a power hack
>saw or band saw. I am not really keen on the hand hack saw route.
> alex t.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Sight guage advice |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" <prm@softhome.net>
I'm installing a fuel sight guage on my 601 HD. I've read previous advice
that
recommends placing a "restrictor" in the sight guage line- usually a metal
plug
or tube- something that won't move (and end up in the tank) and which has a
small hole in it to restrict fuel movement. I guess the idea is to eliminate
slosh
or movement in the line.
Any comments on this or handy hints on how to best rig a sighte guage for a
601?
Thanks
Perry Morrison
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Sight guage advice |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randall Stout" <r5t0ut@earthlink.net>
I haven't made a site gauge, but I can tell you how I made a restrictor for
my fuel pressure gauge. I just filled one of the fittings with solder, then
drilled a 1/16" hole through the solder. In my case, it lets the pressure
through but minimal fuel. You might need to experiment with the hole size
since you want the fuel to actually go through it.
Randy Stout - San Antonio TX
CH601HD N282RS
r5t0ut@earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Perry Morrison" <prm@softhome.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Sight guage advice
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dr. Perry Morrison" <prm@softhome.net>
>
> I'm installing a fuel sight guage on my 601 HD. I've read previous advice
> that
> recommends placing a "restrictor" in the sight guage line- usually a metal
> plug
> or tube- something that won't move (and end up in the tank) and which has
a
> small hole in it to restrict fuel movement. I guess the idea is to
eliminate
> slosh
> or movement in the line.
>
> Any comments on this or handy hints on how to best rig a sighte guage for
a
> 601?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Perry Morrison
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: dan john <ballmell@yahoo.com>
Mike,
You might try Vi Kapler as a source for corvair
engines. He is an AI who worked with Berne Pietenpol
at the time Berne was devloping corvairs for flight.He
is a good guy.He had 28 of them stashed away a few
years ago,saved for people who wanted to convert them
to aircraft engines.He lives in Rochester
Minnesota.and his number is 507-288-3322.John
--- Robert Rehmel <traveler601@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Robert Rehmel"
> <traveler601@earthlink.net>
>
> I would be interested also. I hunted around for a
> few months for a core
> and finally got one off of a guy in Milwaukee.
> Around Dayton Ohio there
> was a junk yard getting rid of Corviars. You had to
> haul away the whole
> car to get just the engine.
>
> If Wynne is putting together an engine mount for the
> Zodiac is it going to
> be just plans or do you buy the mount from him?
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: nhulin <nhulin@hotmail.com>
> > To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> > Date: 2/13/2003 9:45:30 PM
> > Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Corvairs
> >
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "nhulin"
> <nhulin@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > I had an email reply from William a couple of
> weeks back. He is still
> > intending to do the engine mounts. He advises that
> the stock engine
> cowling
> > will work with the front mounted starter with an
> added "bump". I'm still
> > following up with the local Corsa club members for
> a rebuildable core.
> There
> > doesn't seem to be too many Corvairs in the
> mid-west.
> >
> > I'd really like to hear some first hand input from
> anyone who has actually
> > got to the point of hanging a Corvair on their
> 601. Anyone out there?
> >
> > ...neil
> > 601XL - doing wings and stuff
> >
> > > Me too!
> > >
> > > In fact, I sent an email to William Wynne to see
> how he was coming along
> > > (IF he was coming along) on a FWF kit for the
> Corvair/601XL application.
> > > Supposedly, he was working on one based on
> comments made in ZAC's
> > > newsletter. I sent that email a couple of weeks
> ago and haven't heard
> > > back yet. So any info on this engine choice
> would be great.
> > >
> > > Mike Fortunato
> > > 601XL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --- Robert Rehmel
> --- traveler601@earthlink.net
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com>
I wouldn't call 3/16" thickness Aluminum "bar" stock. A sabre saw works
just fine, use a medium to fine tooth pitch blade (18 tpi?), tape up or
otherwise shield the foot so the sheet surface doesn't get scratched, hang
on and follow your line, cut slightly oversize, belt sand or file to finish.
Piece of cake!
Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas
Subject: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar
>when you don't have a power hack
> saw or band saw.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Winston Ellis <w1mdi@cox-internet.com>
It helps to spray the blade (regular wood blade also works) with WD-40 to keep
the
teeth from gumming up and be sure to hold on to the piece you are cutting tightly!
Winston Ellis
701/Suzuki
Ketchum, Idaho
Lowell Metz wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Lowell Metz <lowellmetz@earthlink.net>
>
> Alex,
> You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw
> using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. Wear a long
> sleeved shirt and good eye protection. I have seen my friend cut 3/4 inch
> aluminum this way for years.
> At 06:28 PM 2/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: alex trent <atrent7@cogeco.ca>
> >
> > My 601 wheel forks are built of 1/4" 6061 t6 flat stock. I would like
> >to make new ones "as per drawing" of 3/16 with 3/16 doublers. The major
> >problem is how do you cut this material when you don't have a power hack
> >saw or band saw. I am not really keen on the hand hack saw route.
> > alex t.
> >
> >
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
> You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw
> using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. I have seen my
friend cut 3/4 inch
> aluminum this way for years.
My God that must HOWL, no doubt it works, but ouch on the ears! Maybe
consider a cheap jigsaw it's slow but does the job as well.
Mark
601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Sight guage advice |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bill Morelli <billvt@together.net>
In my 601 HDS I added a restrictor which does minimize the movement of the
fuel in the sight gauge. I took an in line brass connector for 1/4" ID
tubing. Soldered it shut then drilled a 1/16" hole through the solder. I
placed it in the tube that connects to the bottom of the sight gauge and
goes to the tank bottom. Works rather well.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 191.5 flight hrs. - 300
landings, 1 ON ICE!!)
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>I'm installing a fuel sight guage on my 601 HD. I've read previous advice
>that
>recommends placing a "restrictor" in the sight guage line- usually a metal
>plug
>or tube- something that won't move (and end up in the tank) and which has a
>small hole in it to restrict fuel movement. I guess the idea is to eliminate
>slosh
>or movement in the line.
>
>Any comments on this or handy hints on how to best rig a sighte guage for a
>601?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Perry Morrison
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
I use a chop saw (DeWalt electric Miter saw) with a 12" fine crosscutting,
carbide tipped blade (wood-cutting blade). It makes nice, square cuts and
it's not loud. You get little aluminum chips to clean up, but it works
great and it's fast. I first tried a metal cutting blade on the same saw,
but it is slow, loud and makes a bigger mess.
Go get a chop saw and you will wonder why you didn't have one before. You
can use it on all sorts of projects at home as well.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
> You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw
> using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. I have seen
my
friend cut 3/4 inch
> aluminum this way for years.
My God that must HOWL, no doubt it works, but ouch on the ears! Maybe
consider a cheap jigsaw it's slow but does the job as well.
Mark
601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
Message 10
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| Subject: | Canopy lock and stering slot covers |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank@megsinet.net>
For those of you who requested it the pictures of the canopy lock I have
been notified that they are on the photo share. The pictures of the
steering slot doors was sent today.
Tim Shankland
Message 11
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: ZSMITH3rd@aol.com
Okay, gentlemen, maybe this is one of those, "Anybody should know that!"
questions, but here's the deal: My 701 kit was right at the transition to
the heavier gross weight/new drawings so that I have both sets of prints and
therefore some "differences" between the two. ZAC has been helpful, no
problem there.
I built the heavier (later version) firewall/ nose gear/etc. Now, who can
speak to the amount of vertical nose gear travel with the R912 engine, and
which of the bungees are you using. Note that there have been two or three
(maybe even four) different bungee cords spec'd by ZAC. At the changeover to
the heavier gross weight & stiffer firewall, the bungee pin location &
diameter changed. The change in pin location and the pre-stretch on the
bungee of a given rating is my concern. Anybody had a problem with bungee
being too weak for the engine weight?
I am nearing the point of hanging the engine on it and it would sure be
helpful to change the bungee now rather than afterward.
And for you guys in Canada, "Hockey Day" yesterday was excellent. They
mentioned several times something about a "new territory". What was that?
We just never get Hudson Bay news in Texas.
Thanks,
Zed Smith
701/R912
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
Any of these methods will work fine. Use whatever you have and if that is
only a hacksaw, that will work great too! (Even takes time off that spent on
the treadmill). Improvise, think, learn, succeed. That is part of the EAA
spirit and a part of the FAA law that makes building your own airplane a
possiblity. Have fun and stay cool!
Aaron
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy@visi.net>
Try a plywood blade in a table saw - put the blade in backwards. (NOT a
carbide tipped one) Really nice cut for soft metals. Dave
-DO NOT ARCHIVE-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scott Laughlin"
<cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
>
> I use a chop saw (DeWalt electric Miter saw) with a 12" fine crosscutting,
> carbide tipped blade (wood-cutting blade). It makes nice, square cuts and
> it's not loud. You get little aluminum chips to clean up, but it works
> great and it's fast. I first tried a metal cutting blade on the same saw,
> but it is slow, loud and makes a bigger mess.
>
> Go get a chop saw and you will wonder why you didn't have one before. You
> can use it on all sorts of projects at home as well.
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar
> Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 12:33:46 -0500
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
>
> > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw
> > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. I have seen
> my
> friend cut 3/4 inch
> > aluminum this way for years.
>
> My God that must HOWL, no doubt it works, but ouch on the ears! Maybe
> consider a cheap jigsaw it's slow but does the job as well.
>
> Mark
> 601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Keep It Simple Fred |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
>
>
> The templates can be built from any scrap piece of tin metal, just thin
> enough to cut with the aviation sesers (sp?)
The correct spelling is "snips". :)
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Airframe construction complete.
Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
do not archive.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Brian Caithcart" <bcaithcart@hotmail.com>
That is what everybody says until they try it. It is fun to watch bystanders
run for cover when they see what you are about to do. A table saw works
great for aluminum. Woodworking tools cut aluminum like butter. I cut all of
my angle stock with my Delta 10" mitre saw and cut all of my sheet with a
router. Ear plugs are still recommended though.
Brian Caithcart
CH601HD/corvair
scratch building
>From: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar
>Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 12:33:46 -0500
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "mark.townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
>
> > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw
> > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. I have seen
>my
>friend cut 3/4 inch
> > aluminum this way for years.
>
>My God that must HOWL, no doubt it works, but ouch on the ears! Maybe
>consider a cheap jigsaw it's slow but does the job as well.
>
>Mark
>601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: John Montgomery <1arm@rogers.com>
why would you put the pywood blade in backwards? I s there a reason for
this or is it an urban myth?
I'm a looong way from cutting any landing gear or extrusions, but I need
to start cutting .040 for doublers...
John Montgomery, Ottawa, slowest XL builder on Earth
David & Maria Lumgair wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy@visi.net>
>
>Try a plywood blade in a table saw - put the blade in backwards. (NOT a
>carbide tipped one) Really nice cut for soft metals. Dave
>
>-DO NOT ARCHIVE-
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy@visi.net>
If you try it with the teeth facing forward - the blade takes too much
bite - if they are facing back - it just nips the metal away a little at a
time, leaves a nice edge too according to my father. I'd still cut outside
the line and finish it with sweat. Dave
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Montgomery" <1arm@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: John Montgomery <1arm@rogers.com>
>
> why would you put the pywood blade in backwards? I s there a reason for
> this or is it an urban myth?
>
> I'm a looong way from cutting any landing gear or extrusions, but I need
> to start cutting .040 for doublers...
>
> John Montgomery, Ottawa, slowest XL builder on Earth
>
> David & Maria Lumgair wrote:
>
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair"
<dlummy@visi.net>
> >
> >Try a plywood blade in a table saw - put the blade in backwards. (NOT a
> >carbide tipped one) Really nice cut for soft metals. Dave
> >
> >-DO NOT ARCHIVE-
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: cutting alum bar |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@attbi.com>
I've had good luck cutting aluminum up to 1/2 inch thick on a 14 inch
bandsaw, using a fine tooth wood-cutting blade
George
----- Original Message -----
From: "Winston Ellis" <w1mdi@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cutting alum bar
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Winston Ellis <w1mdi@cox-internet.com>
>
> It helps to spray the blade (regular wood blade also works) with WD-40 to
keep the
> teeth from gumming up and be sure to hold on to the piece you are cutting
tightly!
>
> Winston Ellis
> 701/Suzuki
> Ketchum, Idaho
>
> Lowell Metz wrote:
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Lowell Metz
<lowellmetz@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Alex,
> > You can very successfully cut the thicker aluminum on a table saw
> > using a fine pitch ( tooth spacing ) carbide tipped blade. Wear a long
> > sleeved shirt and good eye protection. I have seen my friend cut 3/4
inch
> > aluminum this way for years.
> > At 06:28 PM 2/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
> > >--> Zenith-List message posted by: alex trent <atrent7@cogeco.ca>
> > >
> > > My 601 wheel forks are built of 1/4" 6061 t6 flat stock. I
would like
> > >to make new ones "as per drawing" of 3/16 with 3/16 doublers. The major
> > >problem is how do you cut this material when you don't have a power
hack
> > >saw or band saw. I am not really keen on the hand hack saw route.
> > > alex t.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re:cutting bar stock |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Dave and Pam Fisher <dpfisher@scottsbluff.net>
Try a circular saw with a regular carbide tipped blade for wood - any will
work but those with close spaced teeth are best. Don't set the depth of
cut any deeper than necessary for the material you're cutting. I've cut
everything from .040 in. to one quarter inch and I suspect it would work
for thicker stock if you go slow and don't overheat the blade.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Keep It Simple Fred |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
Thanks Bryan,
English is my second language, and is great to learn more everyday.
Mostly non common (everyday) words.
Saludos
Gary Gower
Do not archive.
--- Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin
> <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com>
> >
> >
> > The templates can be built from any scrap piece of tin metal, just
> thin
> > enough to cut with the aviation sesers (sp?)
>
> The correct spelling is "snips". :)
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
> Airframe construction complete.
> Working on instrument panel, electrical and interior.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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